The Dumb Question Thread

meisanerd

Need Bigger Tires
A small pancake AC compressor is going to draw 10 Amps so the output of the converter would have to be at least a 12-1500 watt unit. Also, most inverters are squarewave output and not all AC devices like squarewave, they prefer sinewave. California Airtools is a source for what you are looking for. Personally, since what you are looking for is larger than say a Viair 400P it seems smarter to me to get a 12 volt compressor.
Yah, the 400P Auto is what I was thinking if I went DC. Just running through other options, had some visitors recently and had to inflate air mattresses and thought if I had a small system that I could just pull out of the vehicle temporarily instead of doing it by hand or dragging the mattresses to the garage would be nice.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
I have half of the 444C dual pack and it inflates anything pretty quickly. 12 to 30psi 35s are about 3 minutes each. I've used it on pool inflatables, bike tires, it's perfect.
 

meisanerd

Need Bigger Tires
I hate amazon. Was looking at that like a week ago, and they were nearly $1k CAD for the 2 pack, vs about 380 for the 400. Now, 480 for the 444...

Might have to see if I can find someone local who wants one, shipping around here would probably wreck the deal
 

xyoverland

[fully disclosed]
Supporting Member
Location
Virginia
Doing plugs and valve covers. #5 had a ton of oil in it, and the little rubber boot on the end of the coil is loose and looks a little swollen compared to the other two that are rigid. Do I need to replace the whole coil?
B59FE812-DCB8-4090-A0FE-A9F1B6C1683A.jpeg
 

IM1RU

Skid Plates
Supporting Member
Location
SLC, UT
For those of you who have a snorkel.

Have you had the connection from your airbox to the "L" fitting inside your fender fail / disintegrate?

If you have, WTF did you replace that little Got Damn hose with?

Mine has completely disintegrated. I was left with that little curly wire being the only thing connecting the two. :face palm:
 

Zack.

Has been dubbed Arnold
Supporting Member
Location
Livermore, CA
Cutting out lca bushing sleeves - if I nick the edge of the arm about 1/16th of an inch does it make it a throwaway?

B947E37B-B3F6-41F0-80CF-9725C778A586.jpeg
 

Zack.

Has been dubbed Arnold
Supporting Member
Location
Livermore, CA
I would have that welded if you want to use it. It just creates a stress point that could lead to a crack.

that’s kinda what I thought :confused:. Might just order a new arm and say screw the delrin bushings. I’m spending too much time trying to get ready to do everything instead of just doing it.
 

xyoverland

[fully disclosed]
Supporting Member
Location
Virginia
Ordering Amsoil for the diffs (R180/C200). Should I get the 80w90 for the front since they have it or just do 75w90 all around to keep things simple?
 

scoyoc

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
Fort Collins, CO
Anyone have an idea as to why my transfer case stated to leak? I drove about 6 hours yesterday on I-70 and took a peek at the undercarriage and there’s oil all over my skids and splashed up on the firewall. I’ll pull the skid this evening when I get back to my buddies house and take a closer look.
96BAE940-2C9E-4626-85FC-B194E57C449E.jpeg
 

Brunnie

Bumpers Installed
Supporting Member
Location
Colorado Springs
Anyone have an idea as to why my transfer case stated to leak? I drove about 6 hours yesterday on I-70 and took a peek at the undercarriage and there’s oil all over my skids and splashed up on the firewall. I’ll pull the skid this evening when I get back to my buddies house and take a closer look.
View attachment 25485
Are you sure that is from the T case?
 

29erClan

Bought an X
Location
Meh
Mine was leaking from the front output shaft seal. There's a revised seal and flange set if you find the leak there. The better version has a bigger metal cup protecting the rubber, if I remember correctly.
 

scoyoc

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
Fort Collins, CO
OK, follow up question. Is the front driveshaft always engaged and spinning? Because I’ve got oil all over my fuel tank skid and rear differential suggesting that my front drive shaft is spinning when in 2wd. Because leaking seal throwing oil all over undercarriage. I assumed that the transfer case was where the 4wd is engaged, but maybe that it’s in the front diff?C2BA3953-135A-4627-ADCD-F1695D029B2C.jpeg
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
OK, follow up question. Is the front driveshaft always engaged and spinning? Because I’ve got oil all over my fuel tank skid and rear differential suggesting that my front drive shaft is spinning when in 2wd. Because leaking seal throwing oil all over undercarriage. I assumed that the transfer case was where the 4wd is engaged, but maybe that it’s in the front diff?View attachment 25489
Yes. It always spins.
 

Brunnie

Bumpers Installed
Supporting Member
Location
Colorado Springs
OK, follow up question. {SNIP} I assumed that the transfer case was where the 4wd is engaged, but maybe that it’s in the front diff?
4wd is engaged in the transfer case, you assumed correctly.
Which also means that if you blow the front U joint you can tie the driveshaft off to the side and move in 2wd. (Been there, done that.... needed 4 new bolts)
 

29erClan

Bought an X
Location
Meh
Yeah, here's a sort of cut away view:

I just checked that old link and onShape still exists and my files are still there. I think I put a lot of info like OEM part numbers and alternative bearings if the same specs, stuff like that.
 

Zack.

Has been dubbed Arnold
Supporting Member
Location
Livermore, CA
Since the Nismo bumper was designed for the newer grill it’s pushes my old style grill out for an imperfect fit. Should I try to trim it with an angle grinder, find a bucktooth grille, or just not give a shiat?

CD8E4282-5A18-463A-A294-C3CC6B9E5696.jpeg
 

IM1RU

Skid Plates
Supporting Member
Location
SLC, UT
For those of you who have a snorkel.

Have you had the connection from your airbox to the "L" fitting inside your fender fail / disintegrate?

If you have, WTF did you replace that little Got Damn hose with?

Mine has completely disintegrated. I was left with that little curly wire being the only thing connecting the two. :face palm:
Since none of you bastards told me what to do, I did the Rob way. Which is to say I went from 0-100....

Bought some 3" I.D. industrial radiator type hose from a hose shop in town. It's 1/4" thick wall. shiat's butch as ufck. Fixed it through the fender well. Gots me a bomb proof connection now. :p
 

xyoverland

[fully disclosed]
Supporting Member
Location
Virginia
Here’s something I’ve always wanted to know and I just saw it posted again. If you’re buying custom Alcan springs for a specific height, and you want say 4” of lift, why would you get Alcans in a 3” lift and then a 1” lift shackle? Why not just get 4” Alcans and not have the shackles sticking down in the back?
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
Here’s something I’ve always wanted to know and I just saw it posted again. If you’re buying custom Alcan springs for a specific height, and you want say 4” of lift, why would you get Alcans in a 3” lift and then a 1” lift shackle? Why not just get 4” Alcans and not have the shackles sticking down in the back?
You certainly can. The advantage to a longer shackle is that the travel arc for the spring side of the shackle is larger and allows for more travel at the axle.

I ordered mine at +4" and still put an inch of shackle in play. They will settle. Especially if you don't order enough added weight capacity. And I still have another inch of shackle in reserve so if they settle too much, I can always kick up the shackle to get the lift back.
 

xyoverland

[fully disclosed]
Supporting Member
Location
Virginia
After about three hours on the trail today, CEL came on. Code was P0171, too lean on bank 1. I’ve searched it and am seeing everything from dirty MAF to cracked manifold to bad cats. I cleared the code, and did about another 90 minutes of trail then the ride home. No CEL and no codes and scangauge says system is ready.

Should I do anything now, or wait and see if the code comes back not on the trail?

I have noticed that my mileage has been getting worse lately.

Spark plugs, valve covers, and coils all replaced about 6-7k miles ago.
 

xyoverland

[fully disclosed]
Supporting Member
Location
Virginia
Check the rubber intake parts for cracks / leaks. When was the last time you did O2s?

I'm at almost 170 and passed smog with flying colors. So cats? Probably not.
Never did O2s and I’m at 105k. Edit: bought it at 67k though.


IMHO... if mileage is getting worse I'd start looking at cat replacement before something serious happens.
Only 105k and 7 years old though. Mileage today was right at 14mpg but only 1/3 of a tank mainly highway with cruise control on around 70mph/2k rpm. I usually get around 15.5mpg, so it’s not overly drastic but down.
 
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TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
Check your intake boots at the throttle body and air box for cracks like Prime said. It's possible that it's just the one bank because of the slight difference in intake runner length.

Pull up your STFTs and LTFTs on a scanner (get the ELM327 Bluetooth adapter from Amazon and Torque Pro for Android is you need one) and see how they compare bank to bank. Could be a failing injector or possibly a pinched I take plenum o-ring from the valve cover job but you need to narrow down where to look.

You can watch the STFT with your wife holding the RPM about 1500-1800 and spray the intake mounting with carb cleaner or something like that. A sharp dip in the STFT while spraying should indicate a leak.

Check all your vacuum hoses, PCV hoses and such as well. I split in one where it attaches will create a leak like that as well.
 

xyoverland

[fully disclosed]
Supporting Member
Location
Virginia
Safe to say O2s have never been done. Get some NTKs if the code comes back.
All four at once is best?

All the hoses around the intake look good. Boots are silicone (AFE intake) and is still looking new and very tight. I’ll plug in Nisscan reader and see what they say. Will also wait till it’s cold to do soapy water with air pressure up the tail pipe to check for any exhaust leaks.
 
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