The Dumb Question Thread
- Thread starter SledheadX
- Start date
- Location
- Rochester, NY
I see you have the updated cast arms with the new style bushings. I had the original tubular type. We’re your bushings pre-installed? Mine weren’t and I had to grease the surfaces with supplied grease. I even did the inside against the metal sleeve I hade to insert. What assembly if any did you have for those arms, like inserting the metal sleeve in the bushings like the old style? Possible grease point. Is the side of the bushing up against the mounting flange it’s bolted to? If that’s rubbing, it probably should be greased as well. You have anti-seize on that bolt? Would help if it’s the bolt creaking. Else you may have a failed bushing, but doesn’t seem like it.
- Location
- Virginia
Yeah everything preinstalled and grease only in the ball joint. I did antisieze the bolts. There is kind of a “notch” at a couple points around it and theoretically a small rock or something could’ve made its way in.
I checked decibels at three points on the upper arm and it was definitely loudest at the one bushing, but I’ll do it again with the mic down low just to check that. The brass fitting around that joint was broken on one edge when I took it apart.
- Location
- Virginia
Confirmed it is indeed that one bushing and not the shock. Went back and looked at some SPC videos on the xAxis bushing and the way it rotates grease shouldn’t be applied to the edges or anything. Guess I’m taking stuff apart again.
- Location
- Rochester, NY
Still got the ones before TS. All spiffed up and ready to rock. But you’re under warranty I expect. And not sporting the blue theme.
- Location
- Virginia
I’d prefer that style over the one I have. Honestly if I end up having to warranty them and get new replacements, I’ll buy yours if still available or go with ADO or Ironman, then sell the new replacement. Quick coat of black paint is too easy.
Funny thing is driving home with heavy rain and now in the garage they’re completely silent. I did however go down a back road and steer back and forth pretty violently to move them as much as possible. It could’ve been some debris that shook out.
- Location
- Rochester, NY
Or you pissed them off by babying them on smooth pavement?
- Location
- Denver Adjacent
My truck squeaks and rattles all over the damn place. As long as it runs well, doesn't leak shiat, and doesn't have any serious vibrations, I couldn't care. The damn thing is 15 years old and nothing is stock anymore. It's gonna make noises.
- Location
- Rochester, NY
U sure that’s not YOU squeak in’ and creaking’
- Location
- Denver Adjacent
That's definitely a possibility.
- Location
- Covington, Va
Make sure you are torquing suspension joints with the weight of the vehicle on them. Especially bonded joints like LCA bushings and OE style leaf spring bushings.
- Location
- Virginia
Yeah I made sure to do that all the way around. Not a factor for the X-Axis UCA bushings (they freely rotate) but still did it that way out of habit.
- Location
- Ashburn, VA
Where can I get a replacement handle for my wet box that locks? I thought they locked with the vehicle key but mine does not.
- Location
- Colorado Springs
Best sit down.... You're looking for this:
Southco 92-42-511 Cam Latch L-Handle, Turn Counterclockwise to Latch/Lock, Short Cam, Zinc Alloy, Powder Coat, Black
Amazon price is $98Found a website that lists it for $70
Southco 92-42-511
Just make sure it comes with keys.
- Location
- Ashburn, VA
Holy hell! Almost cheaper to replace what gets stolen out of the box! Thanks, I’ll search around to see if one pops up cheaper.
- Location
- Colorado Springs
Yeah... I just happened to get in on a group buy several years ago and picked one up for $40. Snoop around the Southco website and you might find a less expensive handle that would work. I think the chrome ones are cheaper.
meisanerd
Need Bigger Tires
- Location
- Edmonton, AB, Canada
Umm, what??? I think I paid like 20-30 for one of these, what happened to the price?
- Location
- Denton, TX
No one looks in the wet box anyway..
No one knows it's there.
- Location
- Virginia
Same with the upper glovebox. When I bought my truck there were camping receipts and two credit cards belonging to the former owner. Which was nice, because then I was able to track him down and ask about vehicle history.
- Location
- Virginia
Is there a thread with a rundown or summary on rear shackles? For example I’ve heard PRG are great, but recently learned they don’t have stock height. Nisstec I’ve heard have alignment issues of some kind.
I’m also trying to determine if I need greasable shackles for my poly bushings. No squeaks or issues yet, but would rather take care of it ahead of time if it will be needed.
Ironman shackles after very little time on @C3NK0 ‘s truck have rust all over the grease nipples (never seen those rust before) and the nuts are rusted. I guess I could get those and replace those two things.
Are there others to consider, if I even need to?
I’m also trying to determine if I need greasable shackles for my poly bushings. No squeaks or issues yet, but would rather take care of it ahead of time if it will be needed.
Ironman shackles after very little time on @C3NK0 ‘s truck have rust all over the grease nipples (never seen those rust before) and the nuts are rusted. I guess I could get those and replace those two things.
Are there others to consider, if I even need to?
- Location
- Livermore, CA
I don’t think any of the adjustables have stock height. Most of them have 1”, 1.5” and 2”. I believe as long as you slather grease when installing you don’t have to have the zerk style. Might depend on climate, conditions, and usage though. I’ve never had any issue with not having zerks with poly bushings on my X, and previously my D21. I’m also not off-road that often though, so I don’t know if flexing squeezer out your grease, or if dust dries it up or anything like that.
- Location
- Covington, Va
If you don't need lift, stock shackles should be fine. They are plenty strong and I ran nearly 40k miles with mine without issue.
Greasable are good, they will help increase the life of the bushings by being able to purge the dirt from the bushings periodically.
But if you use a vehicle offroad often, expect to be replacing suspension joints about every 50k miles. That's any vehicle used offroad. You are putting a lot of stress on stuff that it just was not designed to deal with.
The poly bushings aren't bonded like the OE rubber so there's added movement and wear. The upside is more flex and a more stable joint geometry. The downside is shorter life expectancy.
From what I've seen and used so far, the adjustable shackle hierarchy, in my opinion, is:
#1: PRG
#2: 4x4Parts
#3: Nisstec
- Location
- Virginia
Thanks guys. I definitely don’t want to add height so I’ll probably just plan on replacing them in a couple years.
meisanerd
Need Bigger Tires
- Location
- Edmonton, AB, Canada
So, what are the benefits to running a Pumpkin head unit over one of the major name brand Android Auto ones, if both are around the same price? Not sure if it just the component shortage that is driving up the price of the Pumpkins, they used to be cheaper than the mainstreams, but now there are a couple that I can buy that are about the same price as having the Pumpkin shipped up here.
- Location
- Denver Adjacent
IMO, the only difference is the radio being able to do things without a phone present. It's basically a standalone android tablet that happens to have radio connections. So, in theory, it can do anything an android tablet can do.
Whereas Android Auto has a set list of limitations as to what it can accomplish. Most of which is done through screen mirroring and absolutely requires a phone to be connected to it (either wired or Bluetooth)
Whereas Android Auto has a set list of limitations as to what it can accomplish. Most of which is done through screen mirroring and absolutely requires a phone to be connected to it (either wired or Bluetooth)
- Location
- Denver Adjacent
Also, I just looked. The only way to get an Android Auto head unit with an actual volume knob is to either by a really cheap off brand unit (Boss or Jensen) or an obscenely expensive Kenwood. I don't know that I like either of those options.
I can get an Android Radio with a volume knob for like $400. And I know what to expect since I have an old one currently.
I can get an Android Radio with a volume knob for like $400. And I know what to expect since I have an old one currently.
meisanerd
Need Bigger Tires
- Location
- Edmonton, AB, Canada
Yah, was debating the physical knob given steering wheel controls. But there is an advantage to just installing OsmAnd on the thing and keeping maps up to date.
So, buy this: https://www.autopumpkin.com/product...in-android-11-radio-with-navigation-bluetooth and this: https://www.autopumpkin.com/products/android-auto-carplay-usb-dongle-for-pumpkin-android-car-stereo and one of these: https://axxessinterfaces.com/product/AX-NIS24SWC-6V and call it a day?
Need to see if I can find a way of keeping the factory USB port, mic, and gps antenna as well without cutting harnesses...
Does the pumpkin support direct steering wheel input, or do I still need the axxess to do the translations?
So, buy this: https://www.autopumpkin.com/product...in-android-11-radio-with-navigation-bluetooth and this: https://www.autopumpkin.com/products/android-auto-carplay-usb-dongle-for-pumpkin-android-car-stereo and one of these: https://axxessinterfaces.com/product/AX-NIS24SWC-6V and call it a day?
Need to see if I can find a way of keeping the factory USB port, mic, and gps antenna as well without cutting harnesses...
Does the pumpkin support direct steering wheel input, or do I still need the axxess to do the translations?
- Location
- Denver Adjacent
Either the axxess piece or a PAC. But yeah, I'd go that route.
meisanerd
Need Bigger Tires
- Location
- Edmonton, AB, Canada
I already have the axxess, was going to make the controls work in the yellow, but never got around to it. So now I can buy all this stuff for the new one, and still never get around to it 
- Location
- Denton, TX
So my truck has always started with the bump of the key. Here lately, like every time, I hit the starter like normal and let off after it turns over a few times and it acts like it isn't going to catch and at the last second kicks over and runs fine. Hasn't "not started" yet but it makes me wonder if something is going south..
Anyone had this experience?
Anyone had this experience?
- Location
- Rochester, NY
Nope. I’ve never turned your ignition key.
meisanerd
Need Bigger Tires
- Location
- Edmonton, AB, Canada
Im assuming your battery is good, have you checked for codes?
Mine started doing something similar before the cam and crankshaft sensors went.
- Location
- Denton, TX
Yea, it's not throwing any codes and just replaced battery this last winter. I have cam sensors on hand altho not looking forward to that blind work but at least I've read thru the how-to a cpl x's..
- Location
- Denton, TX
How many miles are the crank and cam sensors good for as I'm kinda sure mine are stock @ 235k miles..
- Location
- Covington, Va
I lost my first cam sensor about 160k I believe.
- Location
- Denton, TX
Hmm, maybe these have been swapped already. I just know everything I've messed with on it so far has been original parts.
- Location
- Covington, Va
Pulled and bew out my charcoal canister this evening. Cleaned and tested the vent valve.
Everything seemed OK and the valve functioned just fine. No return of the CEL YET but it didn't seem to help the issues fueling up. Still can't get over 1/2 way on the pump handles
Everything seemed OK and the valve functioned just fine. No return of the CEL YET but it didn't seem to help the issues fueling up. Still can't get over 1/2 way on the pump handles
- Location
- Colorado Springs
The faster you put it in..... the faster it it goes out.
I use the first latch point and let it fill at a slower rate. I'm not in a race, and it isn't a pit stop..... well it may be a pit stop but not a racing one.