Aug 1, 2019
so how do I find the Dumb Question thread? .....
The thread that is Labeled "Dumb Question thread"!. would be a start?
But I could be wrong??.
So Question would be.. storming AREA 51 a good Plan?. ;-)
Depends on your desired result.
There are no dumb questions. Just dumb answers.
Similarly, I typically give random answers to random questions.
That’s funny, cuz for random questions, I give randumb answers
Thread moved to overall general discussion.
Also, if I had an ass for a head and walked backwards, would I make the beeping noise?
Woohoo!!! I’m going on a trip!!!!
But nowhere specific...
Depends. First or second time?
First time prior to obtaining the flux capacitor or the second after obtaining and going for the hover board?
Can I edit posts here?
You can even edit your edits with edits.
When uni-balls wear out do they move with more or less resistance?
Usually less. The teflon that they ride on is usually what disintegrates
Mine jiggle when they wear out. By hand...they jiggle wiggle
So.... you have a uni-ball?... Curious..... share to much?
What can I say....i like to jiggle my uniball.
Careful, you'll wear out yer teflon.
At least nobody asked if worn out uni-balls ever affect their rod ends or puts extra stress on their half-shafts. Cuz then everything just droops and falls apart.
8 gauge or 6 gauge for blue sea fuse box install in drivers side kick panel? A lot of the gauge x amps x distance charts vary. I’m leaning towards 6 gauge. I believe I have seen the majority of people go 8 gauge but would that be sufficient and safe if someone loaded up to the full ampacity of the fuse box? Also’ I’m going to use a circuit breaker in the bay close to the battery
Bringing in the wiring / electronic gurus. @Prime @Muadeeb
Define "Full ampacity". What are you planning on running through it?
It was more hypothetical. Currently I’m planning on running 4 HID KC lite’s, so I think it’s approximately 20 amps but I don’t see myself running anything where the total is >80 amps. I think 8 gauge would be good enough and I could always switch it out if I get worried
8 awg or better, yeah. Just make sure you can get a connector that fits the mounting lug and the wire. Been bitten by that more than once.
i’ll make sure to post a write-up when the cage and lights are installed but will be about a month!
I went with 4awg, I was pretty sure 6 or 8 would be ok, but now I am certain that it'll be fine with 4awg.
Also, you might want to look into a breaker rated at your max amps for your fuse box and a relay capable of the total amps your wanting to run. I sourced most of the components I used at a boating/marine shop.
I also went with 4awg, but mostly because I had it leftover from another project.
I ran 00 from my battery terminal to the jack storage under the back seat. I basically have a new battery terminal half way down the truck.
Sweet i’ll go with 4 AWG and I already have ordered a breaker at 100 AMPS and going to get a 30 AMP rated relay. The HIDs pull 3 amps at 12 volts, so that should be good! I’m still compiling parts but i’ll do a write up when finished!
Are you running the wire to an aux fuse panel? if you are there is an amazing spot for mounting the aux panel under the steering wheel kick panel. I made brackets (read: cut 1"x1" aluminum angle about 6" long and just drilled through and screwed into an existing steel support structure under there.) Now if a fuse blows I just lay down on my floor pan under the drivers seat and look up and can remove the cover/replace the fuse without taking off interior panels. I can take some pics tonight when I get home from work if you want to see the setup.
Also if your going a full fuse panel I'd recommend a higher amperage relay than 30 amps. I sourced mine from a car audio shop for less than $50. It handles 100 amps.
Are you saying to get a 100 amp relay, in order to activate all the lines into the fuse box? The 30 amp relay is going to be inline to my 4 lights after the fuse in the fuse box.
Sweet thanks for the mounting tip. I am planning on installing in that kick panel location.
Yeah thats how I set mine up. That way I have to have the key in the ign and turned to "on" before I can use anything on the aux fuse panel. I did it this way so I don't accidentally leave something on by mistake (like a rear facing light bar which would be noticeable at night, but not so much during the day time) and drain my battery and get stranded.
Wire diagram would look something like this:
Battery Terminal>>Breaker>>100 amp relay (ign switched activated)>>Aux fuse panel terminal>>30 amp relay>>lights.
Ahhh I gotcha that makes sense! I forgot about that thanks. I would hope I wouldn’t leave 4 KC HID lights on lmao but it’d be a great idea for future accessories that are more discrete!
Yeah, I run everything off that Aux panel. I don't daily the X and while a CB would take something like a week to kill the battery, my X often sits for 2-3 weeks between uses (towing, off-road trip, camping, or a long road trip). This way I don't end up with a dead battery because of my own stupidity...
I think you and I might have used the same location, I have mine mounted up under there too, there's tons of space and pretty good support structure.
I velcro’d my blue sea to the kick panel on the drivers side. Out of the way and you can easily pull it out when you need to add on.
Yeah the mounting location is definitely not my own original idea, I copied someone else’s how to over on theforumwhosnamewedonotmention... I actually copied several how to’s over there and merged them all into one finished product.
I like that idea as well! Did you just leave extra wire slack so you can move it around/access it?
Yea. I tuck it in a coil between the kick panel and the carpet.
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