- Location
- Denver Adjacent
When I had to do them I only did the upstream ones and haven't had any codes since.
The Dumb Question Thread
- Thread starter SledheadX
- Start date
- Location
- Virginia
Thanks dudes. Will report back. I’m keeping the truck a long time and prices are doing nothing but going up so I’ll probably go ahead and grab the two upstream ones at least now so I have them handy.
- Location
- Covington, Va
NTK from Rock Auto
- Location
- Virginia
Alright, no carb cleaner on hand so haven’t messed with that yet, but I am set up and can read those with Nisscan.
one with the s is stored value (LTFT)
I noticed that the passenger side of the breather hose between valve covers has some weeping around it. Here’s a picture of the dry driver side and the weeping passenger side that’s out of focus. Could this be just the hose needing a clamp around the end of it?
one with the s is stored value (LTFT)
I noticed that the passenger side of the breather hose between valve covers has some weeping around it. Here’s a picture of the dry driver side and the weeping passenger side that’s out of focus. Could this be just the hose needing a clamp around the end of it?
- Location
- Covington, Va
I've never seen it displayed like that. Torque displays it in +/- % with 0% being no adjustment made.
It seems though that Alpha is 100% means no change made so its showing that your LTFT are not adjusted which I would doubt. Was the engine up to temperature and running in that shot?
It seems though that Alpha is 100% means no change made so its showing that your LTFT are not adjusted which I would doubt. Was the engine up to temperature and running in that shot?
- Location
- Virginia
Sorry, I somehow missed this reply. This was after clearing the air idle volume learn, which is why they weren’t adjusted. Here are the before values, just from the graph screen.
- Location
- Covington, Va
5% is a little high. Try cleaning your MAF sensor first. Some dirt insulating the wires could cause it to not see the air entering and pop lean on you.
That cross over hose could cause the issue too, but that hose doesn't use clamps, you just need a new one.
- Location
- Virginia
How do we feel about this with a patch repair? With lots of offroad is this still trustworthy after repair? Or should I have it repaired and just keep it as the spare?
- Location
- Colorado Springs
If it were mine... I'd repair and continue merrily along. It isn't in the sidewall, although it is pretty close to the "red zone". If nothing else, it does make for a spare. Also some tire shops may not repair it because of the location, so you would probably have to do it yourself.
- Location
- Virginia
It’s at the shop now - I luckily already had an inspection appointment. If they say it’s unrepairable I have the Discount Tire Direct certificates so I’ll get a new one. The question then will be whether I should just get a new set of the LT version and sell the 4 good tread and 1 new spare locally.
- Location
- Covington, Va
Why not get 5 new ones and sell the 4 as a set?
Or do you not rotate your spare?
Or do you not rotate your spare?
- Location
- Virginia
If I was going to get new ones I was going to switch to the LT. I wonder if DTD would just let me pay the difference and upgrade the replacement of the one.
- Location
- Covington, Va
Do you not have a matching spare right now?
- Location
- Virginia
Yeah right now I have 5 of the passenger rated AT3W and I rotate all 5. If I get this one replaced it will be much larger and I guess would just be a spare.
If they’ll let me replace it with an LT tire and pay the difference, I may just get 5 total if that and sell this set of 4.
- Location
- Covington, Va
Ok. Yeah that sounds like the ideal thing.
- Location
- Virginia
They said it was far enough in to patch and repair, so hopefully it’ll be good.
- Location
- Caldwell, ID
Ok, 1st gen leaf spring question.....
The back end of the X was already sagging a bit with the spare tire on there. I was originally just going to adjust my shackles.....but since putting the RTT on there, I know I need to do something about those springs.
Theres a local shop here (boise spring) that builds custom leaf packs for folks. I've already talked to them, and they seem to think I'd be looking at cost being somewhere in the ballpark of about $700-800 for new springs.
I've ruled out AAL from 4x4parts since those would be about $450. At that point, I might as well go with all new leaf packs.
I've not called Alcan yet, but I'm guessing they'd be somewhere in the ballpark of about a grand? What are your guy's thoughts on it?
The back end of the X was already sagging a bit with the spare tire on there. I was originally just going to adjust my shackles.....but since putting the RTT on there, I know I need to do something about those springs.
Theres a local shop here (boise spring) that builds custom leaf packs for folks. I've already talked to them, and they seem to think I'd be looking at cost being somewhere in the ballpark of about $700-800 for new springs.
I've ruled out AAL from 4x4parts since those would be about $450. At that point, I might as well go with all new leaf packs.
I've not called Alcan yet, but I'm guessing they'd be somewhere in the ballpark of about a grand? What are your guy's thoughts on it?
- Location
- Covington, Va
It's worth the money to have properly built springs.
- Location
- Denver Adjacent
Alcan is going to be 900+shipping. Make sure whichever way you go that you get the proper weight of everything on the truck to allow for the packs to be built correctly. When I weighed mine I was like 750lbs over stock at the back fully loaded. So I ordered the Alcan's at +800lbs and they haven't really sagged at all.
- Location
- Caldwell, ID
Yeah, Alcan came back at 1024 plus shipping.
Local company is about 800 installed, with no shipping. That probably the route I'll go.
- Location
- Livermore, CA
For first gen I feel like I’ve read good things about kc spring g company or something like that, As well as General Springs. No concrete recommendations since I’ve never used either though
- Location
- Virginia
I’m too lazy to Google it at the moment, but is there a stock front/back axle weight? Or a ratio you apply to curb weight or something? I did Cat scale once but I didn’t get the axles independently. I should do that and see where I’m at.
- Location
- Caldwell, ID
My sisters boyfriend operates one of the scales here just outside of Boise. He said that I can come out anytime to weigh the vehicles. Probably wouldn't be a bad idea.
- Location
- Denver Adjacent
You can just hit any cat scale at a truck stop and get weighed.
- Location
- Big Island
So this is a question so stupid that I considered signing up as a different person to ask it. But then I thought it would rob so many nice people of the entertainment opportunity to make fun of me. So I’m willing to go out on a limb and take the heat here 
I had taken the step rails off my 2002 X as I was fixing it. My kids and wife want them back. So I painted them with bedliner. The question is would bolting 1” angle iron beneath the step rail and between the two frame mount/braces make them any stronger? Or would it simply be stupid. Let me know what you really think so at least someone will get some pleasure out of this!
I had taken the step rails off my 2002 X as I was fixing it. My kids and wife want them back. So I painted them with bedliner. The question is would bolting 1” angle iron beneath the step rail and between the two frame mount/braces make them any stronger? Or would it simply be stupid. Let me know what you really think so at least someone will get some pleasure out of this!
- Location
- Big Island
Thanks! I won’t waste any more time on it
- Location
- Virginia
To close the loop on my check engine light, since that trip I cleaned the MAF sensor, redid idle air volume learn, then dropped 40oz of sea foam in with a full tank. On the next tank after that one, I’m back up over 16.5 mpg normal driving.
- Location
- Ashburn, VA
Time to change some fluids. Can I use the same weight oil for both diffs? I know one is 75/90 and the other is 80/90. Is it really a big difference?
- Location
- Virginia
I had the same question and ultimately did. At least for Amsoil synthetic, it states on the page it replaces conventional 80/90. The consensus seemed to be that as long as it’s synthetic it’s fine.
- Location
- Covington, Va
You'll be fine. I know the rear diff isn't picky. It's just happy to be changed.
- Location
- Virginia
Cause for concern? Or normal? A little bit of a w shape whereas it used to be more of a u
- Location
- Virginia
My bumper has the main brackets attached to the frame via the bumper and tow hook spots, then the main bumper is held into that bracket with 6 carriage bolts. I snapped one of them clean off while tightening it down with just my 1/2” ratchet. I didn’t pay much attention to the bolts during install but see now the only marking on the head is “RFB,” which I can’t find referenced on any guide to determine torque values.
In the meantime I replaced that one with a regular hex head bolt and washers, but since this was the last of the 6 I was tightening down, unless this was just a bad bolt, I’m worried the rest of them are at or in the midst of a failure point and I’m going to replace them all. Question is should I go straight to grade 8? Or should I maybe just do grade 5 so maybe those fail before the bolts at the frame. With three per side I would think failure in a recovery would be highly unlikely anyhow, so why not just do grade 8. I’m sure I’m overthinking this.
In the meantime I replaced that one with a regular hex head bolt and washers, but since this was the last of the 6 I was tightening down, unless this was just a bad bolt, I’m worried the rest of them are at or in the midst of a failure point and I’m going to replace them all. Question is should I go straight to grade 8? Or should I maybe just do grade 5 so maybe those fail before the bolts at the frame. With three per side I would think failure in a recovery would be highly unlikely anyhow, so why not just do grade 8. I’m sure I’m overthinking this.
Also, you can easily identify a grade 8 bolt since it will have 6 evenly spaced radial line markings on the head. Grade 5 will have 3 radial marks. When making bolts out of 316, inconel, etc they get distinct markings too. Not marked, don't trust.
A 3 letter code such as RFB is just for the hardware store cashier to know what to charge you. Take a look in the bins at home depot or ace sometime, each size and length bolt will have a different letter code. It has nothing to do with the material it's made of.
A 3 letter code such as RFB is just for the hardware store cashier to know what to charge you. Take a look in the bins at home depot or ace sometime, each size and length bolt will have a different letter code. It has nothing to do with the material it's made of.
- Location
- Virginia
I have grade 8 arriving tomorrow. And yeah best I can figure out these are just generic general purpose bolts. I don’t know why they’d cheap out on that part, but I also noticed yesterday it was the only hardware not listed on the hardware parts list. Either way it’ll be fixed tomorrow. In the meantime I’m avoiding big bumps if I can see them haha.
Newb
Bought an X
- Location
- Charlottesvile, VA
Dunno for sure, but they look flatter than they should be. Those Iron man springs are not very old, if I recall correctly.
- Location
- Caldwell, ID
OK, thinking about preemptively replacing my distributor on the X, and keeping the one that's on there as a backup.
What does everyone recommend I get?
What does everyone recommend I get?
- Location
- Virginia
Amazon “grade 8” carriage bolt (left) vs McMaster Carr’s grade 8 carriage bolt.
- Location
- McMinnville, Orygun
I would use Amazons lower Quality Clone copy of The Real one as a Paper weight. BUY Quality bolts.. Failure could cost way more.
Sure do not look the same..