kryter
First Fill-Up (of many)
- Location
- Aurora Colorado
thats why I bought 2 or u could get a 4 runner for $42000 w 75000 miles
Anyone else ever have extra good aftermarket parts think ‘maybe I should buy another rig to use this on’ instead of ‘good spare to have’ or ‘maybe I should try selling this’?
make sure to get the sticky grease and coat the shiat out of those bushings..also when I put on my leaf packs I broke them down and lubed those as well still no squeaking yet btw ome as well modifiedSo I'm waiting on my other leaf pack to arrive and had a question on hardware..
I just put nisstec shackles on about 1500 miles ago and had to get new bushings for the leaf packs when we did it. I also put on a u bolt flip kit with new hardware at the same time.
Am I ok using the bushings and ubolts/nuts or would you guys put in new stuffs?
It means that the photos have been recovered from photobucket, where they were being held hostage.Dumb question, I have seen lots of references to PBR related to 4x4s, That cannot mean the beer only, what am I missing?
That's a bummer.. I don't have any ideas and I don't think Terry is up this late. I'm sure by 630a MT you'll have some traffic.
How's it running?
Maintaining the ground connections -- I totally get -- and I am wondering if this is smart preventative maintenance for some of us.I would get a diagram of the ground connections. It logs like your CANBUS system is the issue. It's best to start with cleaning and reattaching all the grounds to the harness around the pump to to eliminate that issue.
I would get a diagram of the ground connections. It logs like your CANBUS system is the issue. It's best to start with cleaning and reattaching all the grounds to the harness around the pump to to eliminate that issue.
U1000 can cause all those if the root cause is the ABS controller not getting good power supply. A controller not getting good power can throw all kinds of random codes pointing at things that aren't really failing.
The trans and transfer case both rely on the ABS unit sending out a good speed signal. In turn it needs good signal from all 4 wheels. But if it really was a wheel sensor you would probably get a specific sensor code. The U1000 is a general communications fault code.
Besides the stuff Terry said, you may also want check the battery, alternator, and IPDM/fuses. Basically everything power related needs to be checked. Then the CAN wiring, etc, until you get the U1000 clear. It says in the FSM that those are priority 1 and trying to fix other things first is pretty much chasing your tail.
Greetings all getting close to maintenance time, have lots of concerns and questions, with not much to spend. I am great full for this community and your knowledge, wondering would there be a members build list that uses quality budget supplies, liquids, parts etc?
A budget/quality fluid recommendation that comes to mind for your transfer case and automatic transmission is Valvoline Maxlife ATF.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Valvolin...0Pn4-K8dvY5K4pm9P5apRPWeViCm-Ai0aAvMyEALw_wcB
Have you done spark plugs plugs? If not your past due for those.
Thank you, not sure picked up from dealer in late October, runs well though, will check for sure.
Quite possibly, more than likely if you have had the door panel off several times. If you think you will be taking the panel off several more times, or other panels for that matter, go to Amazon and buy a bag of clips.View attachment 16420 How the heck do I get my door panel to stay clipped into place? A year ago I took all four off to replace the speakers, and the back two doors always stay popped off on the bottom. I can pop it back in and it stays until I close the door, when it pops back off. All the clips are fine and functional, and there's nothing out of place causing it to push away. Could it just be the plastic clips are worn slightly but not fully broke?
Quite possibly, more than likely if you have had the door panel off several times. If you think you will be taking the panel off several more times, or other panels for that matter, go to Amazon and buy a bag of clips.
https://www.amazon.com/Toyota-Panel-Retainer-90467-10188-Sienna/dp/B0040CTTH4/ref=sr_1_3?crid=8GABOXRTQR47&dchild=1&keywords=nissan+interior+trim+clips&qid=1609388059&sprefix=nissan+interior+,aps,248&sr=8-3
View attachment 16420 How the heck do I get my door panel to stay clipped into place?
Are you sure you are using the clips correctly? Each clip is designed to separate into two pieces - one piece that stays attached to the trim and the other piece that stays attached to the body. In my experience, they rarely separate when you pull the panel off. Either the entire clip stays attached to the panel or to the body. If it doesn't separate you have to use a claw-shaped trim removal tool (or two flathead screwdrivers) to break the clip apart. Attach the male half to the trim and the female half to the body and then snap the trim into place. If you don't separate the halves before reattaching the trim, chances are good that one of the halves isn't properly seated into the trim or body.
Are you sure you are using the clips correctly? Each clip is designed to separate into two pieces - one piece that stays attached to the trim and the other piece that stays attached to the body. In my experience, they rarely separate when you pull the panel off. Either the entire clip stays attached to the panel or to the body. If it doesn't separate you have to use a claw-shaped trim removal tool (or two flathead screwdrivers) to break the clip apart. Attach the male half to the trim and the female half to the body and then snap the trim into place. If you don't separate the halves before reattaching the trim, chances are good that one of the halves isn't properly seated into the trim or body.
If that's the case, then yeah I'm doing it wrong. I think they're attached to the door panel only. I'll see if I can separate them and make one half stick in the actual door. Thanks.
Mine came with cloth fold flat.Are Pro4x (front passenger) seats only leather or fold flat cloth, or did any ship with non-fold flat cloth seats?
Sounds to me like a call to Greg and get a uniball rebuild kit.I have PRG UCAs and the ball joints (non-sealed style) are making horrible noises - does anyone know the part number for replacement ball joints that fit those UCAs?
Nuts. So those should arrive some time in late 2022.Sounds to me like a call to Greg and get a uniball rebuild kit.
Uniball Replacement BearingsThese are a pair (2, one right and one left) uniballs, monoballs, spherical bearings, pillow balls....call them what you want, of bearing to replace worn parts in our, or just about any of the uniball-style upper arms on t
These are a pair (2, one right and one left) uniballs, monoballs, spherical bearings, pillow balls....call them what you want, of bearing to replace worn parts in our, or just about any of the uniball-style upper arms on the market. These are domestic FK teflon-lined bearings, not imported...www.prgproducts.com
I think (from what rumors I've heard online), cloth were fold-flat, leather are not. So depends on which option.Are Pro4x (front passenger) seats only leather or fold flat cloth, or did any ship with non-fold flat cloth seats?