The Dumb Question Thread

SledheadX Aug 1, 2019

  1. kryter

    kryter First Fill-Up (of many) Supporting Member

    Messages:
    297
    Location:
    Aorora Colorado
    thats why I bought 2 or u could get a 4 runner for $42000 w 75000 miles
     
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  2. General_Tarfun

    General_Tarfun Need Bigger Tires Supporting Member

    Messages:
    705
    Location:
    Atlanta, GA
    When I have the storage space I usually hang onto stuff unless it's something I know I'll never end up using.
     
  3. Xterrorista

    Xterrorista Lockers Installed Supporting Member

    Messages:
    1,541
    Location:
    Aurora, CO
    So I'm waiting on my other leaf pack to arrive and had a question on hardware..
    I just put nisstec shackles on about 1500 miles ago and had to get new bushings for the leaf packs when we did it. I also put on a u bolt flip kit with new hardware at the same time.

    Am I ok using the bushings and ubolts/nuts or would you guys put in new stuffs?
     
  4. kryter

    kryter First Fill-Up (of many) Supporting Member

    Messages:
    297
    Location:
    Aorora Colorado
    make sure to get the sticky grease and coat the shiat out of those bushings..also when I put on my leaf packs I broke them down and lubed those as well still no squeaking yet btw ome as well modified
     
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  5. CocoLoco74

    CocoLoco74 Test Drive

    Messages:
    49
    Location:
    Virginia
    Dumb question, I have seen lots of references to PBR related to 4x4s, That cannot mean the beer only, what am I missing?
     
  6. Brunnie

    Brunnie First Fill-Up (of many) Supporting Member

    Messages:
    330
    Location:
    Colorado Springs
    It means that the photos have been recovered from photobucket, where they were being held hostage.
     
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  7. CocoLoco74

    CocoLoco74 Test Drive

    Messages:
    49
    Location:
    Virginia
    Thank yo,u so that happens in multiple forums then, I've also noticed stickers made for this, interesting.o_O
     
  8. CAchief

    CAchief Bought an X Supporting Member

    Messages:
    104
    I got the common ABS/VDC OFF/SLIP lights about a week ago. Figured I would invest in a blue driver scanner and these are the codes it pulled:
    Screenshot_20201222-213722_BlueDriver.jpg

    Brake fluid is good, pads were replaced ~7k miles ago and I'm still able to activate 4wd.

    I was optimistic I would get a speed sensor code, but I'm starting to think this is a bigger issue.

    Any ideas before I head to the dealer??
     
  9. Xterrorista

    Xterrorista Lockers Installed Supporting Member

    Messages:
    1,541
    Location:
    Aurora, CO
    That's a bummer.. I don't have any ideas and I don't think Terry is up this late. I'm sure by 630a MT you'll have some traffic.

    How's it running?
     
  10. CAchief

    CAchief Bought an X Supporting Member

    Messages:
    104
    Runs great... I'm assuming the ABS C1111 code triggered The other codes.
     
  11. TerryD

    TerryD Total Tease Supporting Member

    Messages:
    3,085
    Location:
    Covington, Va
    I would get a diagram of the ground connections. It logs like your CANBUS system is the issue. It's best to start with cleaning and reattaching all the grounds to the harness around the pump to to eliminate that issue.
     
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  12. westslope

    westslope First Fill-Up (of many) Supporting Member

    Messages:
    315
    Location:
    Wildfire country, BC
    Maintaining the ground connections -- I totally get -- and I am wondering if this is smart preventative maintenance for some of us.

    DQ: What pump are you referring to?
     
  13. 29erClan

    29erClan Bought an X

    Messages:
    112
    Location:
    Meh
    U1000 can cause all those if the root cause is the ABS controller not getting good power supply. A controller not getting good power can throw all kinds of random codes pointing at things that aren't really failing.

    The trans and transfer case both rely on the ABS unit sending out a good speed signal. In turn it needs good signal from all 4 wheels. But if it really was a wheel sensor you would probably get a specific sensor code. The U1000 is a general communications fault code.

    Besides the stuff Terry said, you may also want check the battery, alternator, and IPDM/fuses. Basically everything power related needs to be checked. Then the CAN wiring, etc, until you get the U1000 clear. It says in the FSM that those are priority 1 and trying to fix other things first is pretty much chasing your tail.
     
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  14. CAchief

    CAchief Bought an X Supporting Member

    Messages:
    104
    Thanks guys! Of course when I was driving around this morning the lights disappear and codes clear. I've tested the battery and alternator. Need to look at the IPDM/fuses I guess.
     
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  15. CocoLoco74

    CocoLoco74 Test Drive

    Messages:
    49
    Location:
    Virginia
    Does anyone know if Nissan has changed coolant mixes? I purchased my Xterra a few months ago, the coolant color looks yellow, I read of other colors used, never this. It still looks clean and clear I keep checking for signs of Smod with nothing presently. Would this be a brand specific thing? The dealer stated they were selling with no known recalls. Getting close to purchasing new rad for it. The parts number present is one in the Smod list on site. Wondering if they magically created a mix that retards the occurrence of Smod? Thanks for any advice.
     
  16. Prime

    Prime Some Kind of In Charge? Admin Super Moderator

    Messages:
    38,954
    Location:
    Denver-ish
    OE is blue. I'm running Prestone classic green now. Yellow sounds scary as GM Dex is orange. And that can break stuff.
     
  17. CocoLoco74

    CocoLoco74 Test Drive

    Messages:
    49
    Location:
    Virginia
    Thank you, yes that's my concern. It kind of reminds me of VW g12 but that is pink.
     
  18. CocoLoco74

    CocoLoco74 Test Drive

    Messages:
    49
    Location:
    Virginia
    Greetings all getting close to maintenance time, have lots of concerns and questions, with not much to spend. I am great full for this community and your knowledge, wondering would there be a members build list that uses quality budget supplies, liquids, parts etc?
     
  19. CAchief

    CAchief Bought an X Supporting Member

    Messages:
    104
    What's your mileage?
     
  20. CocoLoco74

    CocoLoco74 Test Drive

    Messages:
    49
    Location:
    Virginia
    '09 @137000
     
  21. CAchief

    CAchief Bought an X Supporting Member

    Messages:
    104
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  22. CocoLoco74

    CocoLoco74 Test Drive

    Messages:
    49
    Location:
    Virginia
    Thank you, not sure picked up from dealer in late October, runs well though, will check for sure.
     
  23. ffxcores

    ffxcores [fully disclosed] Supporting Member

    Messages:
    322
    Location:
    Virginia
    Xterrorista and jcco like this.
  24. CocoLoco74

    CocoLoco74 Test Drive

    Messages:
    49
    Location:
    Virginia
    Kind of like hot sauce huh? It works in transfer case and power steering?
     
  25. CocoLoco74

    CocoLoco74 Test Drive

    Messages:
    49
    Location:
    Virginia
    He he suppose in Radiator too!
     
  26. Zack.

    Zack. Has been dubbed Arnold Supporting Member

    Messages:
    472
    Location:
    Livermore, CA
    Unless there are service records I typically assume basic regular maintenance was never done to be safe. Fluids, filters, and plugs are cheap, issues caused by neglect may not be.
     
  27. ffxcores

    ffxcores [fully disclosed] Supporting Member

    Messages:
    322
    Location:
    Virginia
    PXL_20201221_210834547.jpg How the heck do I get my door panel to stay clipped into place? A year ago I took all four off to replace the speakers, and the back two doors always stay popped off on the bottom. I can pop it back in and it stays until I close the door, when it pops back off. All the clips are fine and functional, and there's nothing out of place causing it to push away. Could it just be the plastic clips are worn slightly but not fully broke?
     
  28. Brunnie

    Brunnie First Fill-Up (of many) Supporting Member

    Messages:
    330
    Location:
    Colorado Springs
    Quite possibly, more than likely if you have had the door panel off several times. If you think you will be taking the panel off several more times, or other panels for that matter, go to Amazon and buy a bag of clips.
    https://www.amazon.com/Toyota-Panel...88059&sprefix=nissan+interior+,aps,248&sr=8-3
     
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  29. ffxcores

    ffxcores [fully disclosed] Supporting Member

    Messages:
    322
    Location:
    Virginia
    Thanks. For that cheap I went ahead and ordered and I'll replace one side to see what happens.
     
  30. 11ORX

    11ORX Test Drive

    Messages:
    12
    Location:
    South Dakota
    Are you sure you are using the clips correctly? Each clip is designed to separate into two pieces - one piece that stays attached to the trim and the other piece that stays attached to the body. In my experience, they rarely separate when you pull the panel off. Either the entire clip stays attached to the panel or to the body. If it doesn't separate you have to use a claw-shaped trim removal tool (or two flathead screwdrivers) to break the clip apart. Attach the male half to the trim and the female half to the body and then snap the trim into place. If you don't separate the halves before reattaching the trim, chances are good that one of the halves isn't properly seated into the trim or body.
     
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  31. ffxcores

    ffxcores [fully disclosed] Supporting Member

    Messages:
    322
    Location:
    Virginia
    If that's the case, then yeah I'm doing it wrong. I think they're attached to the door panel only. I'll see if I can separate them and make one half stick in the actual door. Thanks.
     

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