The Dumb Question Thread

Xterrorista

Xterrorista

Charcoal Briquette
Supporting Member
Location
Denton, TX
General_Tarfun said:
I was able to replace one stud on that particular wheel without having to pull the axle. I just kept rotating it until eventually there was a slot big enough to get the new stud in.
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I saw a video where someone did just that but it was tight. I'm worried now that the others might be dmgd. The shop says he'll make it right but I wonder about them and it'll be another 1.5hr round trip drive. I'm frustrated.. again
 
General_Tarfun

General_Tarfun

Sliders
Location
Atlanta, GA
Xterrorista said:
I saw a video where someone did just that but it was tight. I'm worried now that the others might be dmgd. The shop says he'll make it right but I wonder about them and it'll be another 1.5hr round trip drive. I'm frustrated.. again
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I'd have a hard time trusting them with it again but now that they're aware of the shiat job they did last time I'd hope there would be double checking of work before they call it finished. I'd replace all of the studs on that loose wheel too, any remaining ones were taking most of the load and have to be weakened from that. You just have to hope the stud holes aren't stripped or the new one will just spin but in that case I'd be demanding the shop replace the hub on their dime.

I think most people really don't have problems this big when they get work done but I have a really hard time trusting any shop with aftermarket/lift work type work. They just don't work on this stuff enough IMO, especially with the X, it's not like a jeep where the install guy probably has done a hundred clones before.
 
Xterrorista

Xterrorista

Charcoal Briquette
Supporting Member
Location
Denton, TX
General_Tarfun said:
I'd have a hard time trusting them with it again but now that they're aware of the shiat job they did last time I'd hope there would be double checking of work before they call it finished. I'd replace all of the studs on that loose wheel too, any remaining ones were taking most of the load and have to be weakened from that. You just have to hope the stud holes aren't stripped or the new one will just spin but in that case I'd be demanding the shop replace the hub on their dime.

I think most people really don't have problems this big when they get work done but I have a really hard time trusting any shop with aftermarket/lift work type work. They just don't work on this stuff enough IMO, especially with the X, it's not like a jeep where the install guy probably has done a hundred clones before.
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Yea, I hate not having the space, tools and know how to wrench on stuff myself. I've worked so much in the last 5yrs here in CO I haven't met many friends and this was one of the people I'd met and wheeled with. I just figured I could trust him more than a mechanic I'd never met. Plus when I showed up to his shop the lot had a bunch of different off-road trucks etc around. Seemed like everyone there drives something built so I felt I'd found a good place..
 
General_Tarfun

General_Tarfun

Sliders
Location
Atlanta, GA
Xterrorista said:
Yea, I hate not having the space, tools and know how to wrench on stuff myself. I've worked so much in the last 5yrs here in CO I haven't met many friends and this was one of the people I'd met and wheeled with. I just figured I could trust him more than a mechanic I'd never met. Plus when I showed up to his shop the lot had a bunch of different off-road trucks etc around. Seemed like everyone there drives something built so I felt I'd found a good place..
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Yeah that's surprising given all of that, maybe he'll redeem himself the second time around.
 
Xterrorista

Xterrorista

Charcoal Briquette
Supporting Member
Location
Denton, TX
General_Tarfun said:
Yeah that's surprising given all of that, maybe he'll redeem himself the second time around.
Click to expand...
I've got the 1st crack at his shop come Tuesday morning after my damn C treatment.

He was adamant about making it right and was embarrassed I've had to call him out twice now for the work they did. I asked him b4 getting you guy's opinion whether I should buy all new studs for that wheel or just that one and he told me not to worry about anything that he would take care of it all. I feel like I need to make sure now that he knows I want them all replaced.
 
General_Tarfun

General_Tarfun

Sliders
Location
Atlanta, GA
Xterrorista said:
I've got the 1st crack at his shop come Tuesday morning after my damn C treatment.

He was adamant about making it right and was embarrassed I've had to call him out twice now for the work they did. I asked him b4 getting you guy's opinion whether I should buy all new studs for that wheel or just that one and he told me not to worry about anything that he would take care of it all. I feel like I need to make sure now that he knows I want them all replaced.
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Given the first experience with them I would probably make a list of everything, print it out, give one to the front desk guy and leave another copy in the truck. Might be a dick move but they kind of give the impression of needing that much direction.
 
Zack.

Zack.

Has been dubbed Arnold
Supporting Member
Location
Livermore, CA
If changing a front brake hose and/or caliper does the whole system need to be bled or just that corner? 2nd gen if it makes a difference.

actually, also same question if changing the two rear soft lines that come down to the axle.
 
Zack.

Zack.

Has been dubbed Arnold
Supporting Member
Location
Livermore, CA
Keep forgetting to ask this one - what is the metal tab that sticks out 90 degrees off like 1 out of 4 rear brake pads? Is there a specific location that pad is supposed to go?
 
RikRong

RikRong

Bought an X
Location
NoDak
Zack. said:
If changing a front brake hose and/or caliper does the whole system need to be bled or just that corner? 2nd gen if it makes a difference.

actually, also same question if changing the two rear soft lines that come down to the axle.
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If you're replacing the line, use some vise grips to clamp the line very near where it meets the hard line, then remove it from the caliper side and quickly install the new line to avoid losing too much fluid from the caliper. Then disconnect the hose at the hard line and install the new at that location. This will almost guarantee the only air you have will only be in the new line.
 
Richard

Richard

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
Oregon
So getting new tires today or tomorrow. Remember I drive a pavement pounder hound hauler. So thinking of mounting white letters out, what you all think?
I am wanting letters out myself, just gauging thoughts.
 
B

Blind_Io

Test Drive
I am going to install some fender ditch lights (Gen 2). Is the best way to make them turn off when the engine is off to tap a fuse from an ACC powered circuit to signal a relay drawing from the battery, or is there a better/simpler way?

Ideally, I'd like them to turn off when I shut off the ignition. It seems like most people just draw off the battery terminal.
 
General_Tarfun

General_Tarfun

Sliders
Location
Atlanta, GA
Blind_Io said:
I am going to install some fender ditch lights (Gen 2). Is the best way to make them turn off when the engine is off to tap a fuse from an ACC powered circuit to signal a relay drawing from the battery, or is there a better/simpler way?

Ideally, I'd like them to turn off when I shut off the ignition. It seems like most people just draw off the battery terminal.
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I'd put them on a relay. Are you wanting the lights to just always be on when the truck is running?
 
B

Blind_Io

Test Drive
No, I would want the lights to be off when the vehicle is off regardless of the switch position. When the car is on, I want to also have to flip a switch in the cab to turn them on.

So a relay with two circuits, both of which would need to be energized to turn on the lights, one from the switch and one from the ignition. Or just tap power from somewhere that only has power when the ignition is on, but still have a switch on top of that.
 
Brunnie

Brunnie

Bumpers Installed
Supporting Member
Location
Colorado Springs
Power for the lights comes from the battery to the relay then to the lights.
Control for the relay comes from somewhere that is controlled by the ignition, then to a switch and then to the relay.

A very simple circuit.
 
RM975

RM975

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
Templeton, Ca
Blind_Io said:
I am going to install some fender ditch lights (Gen 2). Is the best way to make them turn off when the engine is off to tap a fuse from an ACC powered circuit to signal a relay drawing from the battery, or is there a better/simpler way?

Ideally, I'd like them to turn off when I shut off the ignition. It seems like most people just draw off the battery terminal.
Click to expand...

If you want to go a little extra, use that relay to power a small distribution panel. This way, you have switched power to tap off of for future additions.
 
Brunnie

Brunnie

Bumpers Installed
Supporting Member
Location
Colorado Springs
RM975 said:
If you want to go a little extra, use that relay to power a small distribution panel. This way, you have switched power to tap off of for future additions.
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That will also work but you don't really want the switch to carry the full amperage of the lights. (Unless I've misunderstood what you're saying.)
 
RM975

RM975

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
Templeton, Ca
Brunnie said:
That will also work but you don't really want the switch to carry the full amperage of the lights. (Unless I've misunderstood what you're saying.)
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Depends on the load. I think relays are overused in the blind in improperly designed circuits. I dealt with aviation electronics and electrical systems for years. If the load was to large to be switched in the cockpit......ahem.......flight deck.......engineers design in relays to be switched remotely by smaller switches. Example: Rated 20 amp switch fed by 5 amp fuse switching a 4 amp load. My Baja Designs Light Bar. Example: My 30 amp 220V 9HP compressor motor. Switched with a 50a contactor, controlled by a little 10a switch.
 
General_Tarfun

General_Tarfun

Sliders
Location
Atlanta, GA
RM975 said:
Depends on the load. I think relays are overused in the blind in improperly designed circuits. I dealt with aviation electronics and electrical systems for years. If the load was to large to be switched in the cockpit......ahem.......flight deck.......engineers design in relays to be switched remotely by smaller switches. Example: Rated 20 amp switch fed by 5 amp fuse switching a 4 amp load. My Baja Designs Light Bar. Example: My 30 amp 220V 9HP compressor motor. Switched with a 50a contactor, controlled by a little 10a switch.
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I'd go with a relay to carry the load over the typical ebay switch most people (including me) end up using for lights because who knows what the switch can actually handle + a shorter run to the power source will have less voltage drop.
 
RM975

RM975

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
Templeton, Ca
General_Tarfun said:
I'd go with a relay to carry the load over the typical ebay switch most people (including me) end up using for lights because who knows what the switch can actually handle + a shorter run to the power source will have less voltage drop.
Click to expand...

Excellent reasoning. In this case the switches are Carling, I trust their ratings. I dont use mystery switches for just that reason. Also, in the case of my light bar, distance for voltage drop is one wire size difference, single circuit vs relay controlled circuit.
 
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