The Dumb Question Thread

General_Tarfun

Sliders
Location
Atlanta, GA
Ok Tarfun, shall we indulge him on the ins and outs of changing out control arms? And the rabbit hole that leads to?

The biggest part of the aftermarket UCA's is cost. They're mostly easy to change out, the drivers side rear bolt can be a PIA to remove on older models because of the steering shaft getting in the way. I was able to remove it without removing the shaft, some people just cut the bolt out which is probably the fastest route.

In my experience it's also difficult to find a shop willing to use the UCA as part of the adjustment but also you can set those yourself pretty easily and let the shops fine tune the alignment with the cam bolts.
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
The biggest part of the aftermarket UCA's is cost. They're mostly easy to change out, the drivers side rear bolt can be a PIA to remove on older models because of the steering shaft getting in the way. I was able to remove it without removing the shaft, some people just cut the bolt out which is probably the fastest route.

In my experience it's also difficult to find a shop willing to use the UCA as part of the adjustment but also you can set those yourself pretty easily and let the shops fine tune the alignment with the cam bolts.

Firestone won't adjust mine but after they got it set the first time, I've made adjustments to it to get what I want and made them try to chase the alignment back in spec with the cam bolts. I clocked my upper ball joints forward a little to gain some room behind the front tires.

I need to creep the upper ball joints in board just a little. They were having a hard time getting the tire forward and out enough to get the numbers in the green but they managed it. I'm getting close to right though!

I would definitely recommend the SPC UCAs. There are other options but none that are adjustable that I know of (Mevotec knock offs but they're basically SPCs so whatever). And I wouldn't run the uni-ball style for a primarily street driven vehicle, especially an OE width setup.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
Damn.. Damn.
Even with some new UCAs I'll still be dealing with this overrated POS 5100, right?

Can a rookie handle swapping UCAs? I spent several hundred getting these put together and installed and figure I need to attempt it on my own so I can learn.. Plus now I'm going to be out for UCAs and different shocks so the pennies are dwindling.

I still have your cash and a shiny new diff cover for @Prime's axles tho..
As soon as I have the shiat for the Titan axle to get under the truck, you're the first call.
 

Xterrorista

Charcoal Briquette
Supporting Member
Location
Denton, TX
Ok Tarfun, shall we indulge him on the ins and outs of changing out control arms? And the rabbit hole that leads to?
Oh please do, I don't have enough shiat to throw my moolah at~

No really, I need to know everything. Of the hours n days that turned into months of researching affordable 2" lift options, I never thought I'd be immensely let down immediately with this shock/coil setup..
 
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Xterrorista

Charcoal Briquette
Supporting Member
Location
Denton, TX
What groove are your 5100s set on?

Can you turn the wheel hard passenger and take a picture of your front suspension from behind the driver's side tire and in front of the passenger? That'll help give us an idea of what you're dealing with.

UCAs are a fairly easy swap. The hardest part is the driver's rear bolt that's usually pinned in by the steering shaft. Some folks cut it and get a new one to insert from behind and some pull the steering shaft off the steering rack and take the bolt out.

You'll have to raise it up and support it on stands. Then take the upper ball joint loose. After that unbolt it from the frame and reinstall and torque the new one.
Ok, I'm willing to attempt it. I'm throwing some tools that aren't already at work in the truck in the morning and will get some pics.
Going to assure the shocks are on the lowest "0" setting and DBL check everything is tight.
 

BEEFY

I Smile when Gasoline Can Freeze
Is there any reason not to remove the egr on a first gen. Trying to get every thing back together and the egr tube that goes to the exhaust is nowhere near lining up with the header. Can I just cap them and be done with it.
 

Zack.

Has been dubbed Arnold
Supporting Member
Location
Livermore, CA
Any engineer types or people who get this stuff - is 1020 DOM A513 strong shiat? For context it would be 0.75” OD, 0.12”wall, 0.51” ID and the application is for bushing sleeves. TIA.
 

IM1RU

Skid Plates
Supporting Member
Location
SLC, UT
I currently have DOM used as rear Alcan bushings (they come with front, but not back). It's been just fine for quite some time.

I know 4 other people who have the same thing.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
Is there any reason not to remove the egr on a first gen. Trying to get every thing back together and the egr tube that goes to the exhaust is nowhere near lining up with the header. Can I just cap them and be done with it.
It might throw some codes if you do that. But otherwise I don't believe so.
 

Xterrorista

Charcoal Briquette
Supporting Member
Location
Denton, TX
LUGNUTS?!

So I'm getting off the hwy on my way home this am and the truck started to sway left and right coming down the off ramp, enough where I was scared, thinking what just happened..?!

I came to a stop and started to turn when I heard a metal clunk and the truck jerked to the right. ALL MY F'N LUGNUTS ARE GONE!

Pics are blurry but I found 3 lugnuts that were sheared off about 10' away. I used a block I found on the side of road and my factory jack to get it up and the tire out from underneath the truck. It was wedged cockeyed in the wheel well with the trucks weight sitting on it. The lugnuts were chewed up and sheared enuff I couldn't get them started so I took a nut off each wheel and got 3 on the rim which was enough to limp the mile to the house.

Parts store wasn't open yet and I remember @General_Tarfun, I think, stating a special order maybe.. I can't remember but figured I'd ask.. Where do I get some new nutz?20200514_065142.jpg 20200514_065149.jpg
 

General_Tarfun

Sliders
Location
Atlanta, GA
LUGNUTS?!

So I'm getting off the hwy on my way home this am and the truck started to sway left and right coming down the off ramp, enough where I was scared, thinking what just happened..?!

I came to a stop and started to turn when I heard a metal clunk and the truck jerked to the right. ALL MY F'N LUGNUTS ARE GONE!

Pics are blurry but I found 3 lugnuts that were sheared off about 10' away. I used a block I found on the side of road and my factory jack to get it up and the tire out from underneath the truck. It was wedged cockeyed in the wheel well with the trucks weight sitting on it. The lugnuts were chewed up and sheared enuff I couldn't get them started so I took a nut off each wheel and got 3 on the rim which was enough to limp the mile to the house.

Parts store wasn't open yet and I remember @General_Tarfun, I think, stating a special order maybe.. I can't remember but figured I'd ask.. Where do I get some new nutz?View attachment 14144 View attachment 14145

That's terrifying, glad to hear you were able to stop without them coming off at speed!

Are the studs themselves sheared off with the nuts still attached? When I had to replace one I used this one from Advance Auto and they had them in stock. Did you have some work done that required the wheels be removed recently? I'd go over the other wheels and make sure that the studs on those wheels are ok. The matching lugs I got at Napa, they only had a few in stock though and had to order a few more for me.

Hang on to that block of wood btw, I keep a few in the wetbox since my bottle jack is a little too short for the lift.
 
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RxnNic66

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
TX
That almost happened to me on the way home from ECXC. I was on Alabama on the way to Texas. Caught it before if got all the way tho! :confused:
20190721_120124.jpg
 

westslope

Wheeling
@Xterrorista: The dealership for lug nuts, perhaps?

So what happened? You bought a torque wrench made by forest elves based in Montana's Glacier national Park? It was beer No. 10 by the time you finished the project and tightened the lug nuts?

Glad you are OK. Gotta be scary.
 

Zack.

Has been dubbed Arnold
Supporting Member
Location
Livermore, CA
Almost had that happen once in my 720, luckily nothing sheared off and I realized something was wrong and was able to tighten everything down before it did. Was still scary to get out of the truck and see the wheel sitting at an angle.
 

AdventureRider81

Bought an X
Location
Savannah, GA
Can you pull a fuse to disarm the airbags for offroading? If so, which one? Anybody got experience with this?

I have seen 1 person disarm them by detaching the connector under the drivers seat. However, I am skeptical that it disarms all the bags.

Reason I am asking. For the 3rd confirmed time in about 2 years I have heard of, or witnessed air bags deploying on the trail. 1 Fronty, 2 X's.
 

IM1RU

Skid Plates
Supporting Member
Location
SLC, UT
Can you pull a fuse to disarm the airbags for offroading? If so, which one? Anybody got experience with this?

I have seen 1 person disarm them by detaching the connector under the drivers seat. However, I am skeptical that it disarms all the bags.

Reason I am asking. For the 3rd confirmed time in about 2 years I have heard of, or witnessed air bags deploying on the trail. 1 Fronty, 2 X's.


You do know there was Nissan Service Bulletin to reprogram the computer for that very issue don't you?
 

TheCrabby1

I Smell Fishy
Supporting Member
Location
Burtonsville, Md
Is it all right to remove the rear sway bar but run with the front one hooked up ?? or do I need to order those bracket extension plate's for the rear ?
 

Xterrorista

Charcoal Briquette
Supporting Member
Location
Denton, TX
You need new studs as well.

That's terrifying, glad to hear you were able to stop without them coming off at speed!

Are the studs themselves sheared off with the nuts still attached? When I had to replace one I used this one from Advance Auto and they had them in stock. Did you have some work done that required the wheels be removed recently? I'd go over the other wheels and make sure that the studs on those wheels are ok. The matching lugs I got at Napa, they only had a few in stock though and had to order a few more for me.

Hang on to that block of wood btw, I keep a few in the wetbox since my bottle jack is a little too short for the lift.
I actually ended up finding all 5 lugnuts within 20' of where I got the truck stopped. The lugs looked ok, a little shiny but all there and straight.

Compared to the nuts I took off the other wheels it looks like an 1/8" or so of the nuts that came off are sheared off at the base. Couldn't really tell until looking at the others.

Would've taken better pics but was on the side of a busy road and now I'm in the other car. Memorial Day cordless impact driver sale, where are you!

I just had a shop put adj cam bolts in, lift 2" and alignment. Guess he dropped the ball damnit..
 

Xterrorista

Charcoal Briquette
Supporting Member
Location
Denton, TX
id say he dropped more than just the ball... not to mention he should be the one to pick them back up. If it can be proven he did indeed drop them. But good to know you and all are ok.
I really want to be upset with him but am glad it didn't cause any injury or any dmg that I can tell.

The X only has about 100 miles of hwy driving on it since being wrenched on. How often should I check the hardware for snugness/torque? Was this something that just loosened up or were they not properly torqued down? I've never had any come loose on any other vehicles and I've put well over 1mil miles on rentals, etc...
 

AdventureRider81

Bought an X
Location
Savannah, GA
You do know there was Nissan Service Bulletin to reprogram the computer for that very issue don't you?

I am aware. I pulled my VIN number up on the website provided in another forum and looks like it's been done to my vehicle. Still curious about the fuse pulling though. Probably a none issue. But would like to educate myself properly. Just in case.
 

IM1RU

Skid Plates
Supporting Member
Location
SLC, UT
I really want to be upset with him but am glad it didn't cause any injury or any dmg that I can tell.

The X only has about 100 miles of hwy driving on it since being wrenched on. How often should I check the hardware for snugness/torque? Was this something that just loosened up or were they not properly torqued down? I've never had any come loose on any other vehicles and I've put well over 1mil miles on rentals, etc...

He didn't torque them.... They don't just loosen up like that.
 

meisanerd

Need Bigger Tires
All our reputable tire and alignment shops around here say to bring it back after about 100k (~60mi) for them to retorque them, just in case things shifted. I also do that whenever I take the tires off myself, I torque it to factory recommended, drive for a few days, then check the torque again to be sure.

The ones that annoy me most are the guys who over-torque them, had a stupid cheap tire shop do that to my Altima and it snapped the lug nuts the next time I went to change the tires. Never going back to that place again.
 

Xterrorista

Charcoal Briquette
Supporting Member
Location
Denton, TX
All our reputable tire and alignment shops around here say to bring it back after about 100k (~60mi) for them to retorque them, just in case things shifted. I also do that whenever I take the tires off myself, I torque it to factory recommended, drive for a few days, then check the torque again to be sure.

The ones that annoy me most are the guys who over-torque them, had a stupid cheap tire shop do that to my Altima and it snapped the lug nuts the next time I went to change the tires. Never going back to that place again.
Hmm, so would y'all chock this up to something I should've checked after a cpl drives or should I bring it up to the shop that did the work and obviously didn't put things back as they should've?
I already feel like I got the short end of the deal on a cpl things that were done..

Start rant-
I'm out of stamina, space and know how to tackle the stuff I'd been accumulating to add/change/mod my X.
An acquaintance I've wheeled with a cpl times posted on a FB group that he's having a 40% off labor sale as his shop is struggling to stay busy during the pandemic. I thought what better way to get everything done in one swoop and not spend a fortune.
When I picked up the X the 1st time I noticed they'd cut a portion of my grill out to have access to where they mounted the winch controller box. I assumed they would've routed it into the engine bay as most others do but.. Then I noticed about 30mls down the road that my new fog light rocker was blue and not Amber. I didn't realize it right away as it's hidden behind the steering wheel until I make a hard turn.. ufck, it just keeps getting better. I drove it home & noticed clanking noises from the front end and thought it may be the shackles hanging off the front bumper, the winch shackle rattling and/or the spare tools/parts in the floorboard.
After cleaning the truck and removing shackles & misc, the noise remained. I took it back and we realized the top hats/top strut mounts were shot. I wondered if they should've known this when reinstalling the new shocks and coils as the top hats looked worn out and dmgd..
New top hats and things were back to normal..well, almost. I was diggin' the fact it rides a cpl inches higher and handled bumps better but I was sorta bummed the truck was a lil more sloppy in handling when on the hwy, a lil more swervy and a lil more play in the wheel..
The truck was tracking/swaying on every seam or ledge in the road and was worried the lift was the reason, then.. I realize my lugnuts were barely holding on after a violent swerve and shake exiting the hwy the wheel completely came off and wedged under the truck. I'm heading down to Orielys now to grab some new nuts they've got in stock and a 4way untill my cordless impacts go on sale again..
I'm not gonna get discouraged, just gotta keep putting one mod in front of the other~
 

Xterrorista

Charcoal Briquette
Supporting Member
Location
Denton, TX
Dude. Bring that shiat by the house. Lemme help you.
I'm down to swing it by and let you gimmie your thoughts.. I need a get out of the house for something other than work anyway..

I'm going to go see if I can get some new lugnuts that'll fit and I'll holler atcha.
 

Xterrorista

Charcoal Briquette
Supporting Member
Location
Denton, TX
It's time to start figuring out how tough it'll be to swap out a wheel stud.. I got new lugnuts but one of the studs is burred up and won't take to threading. Fun times no doubt.
 

meisanerd

Need Bigger Tires
Ouch, sounds like they either hired some pretty cheap labor so they could give good deals, or they are just a garbage company. I would be complaining about all that sloppiness, if I take my vehicle to the shop and pay money for someone to do something, I expect it to be done professionally. If I want a slack-off job done, I am more than capable of messing things up myself.

Any time I've done something with the studs, I've replaced all of them on that wheel. I don't trust that the other ones are fine after one had some sort of stress on it, there could be fractures in there that I don't see. And if I have it apart far enough to do one, I might as well do the rest while I'm in there. Haven't done the X yet, but they were pretty simple on my Altima. Took me like 2 hours to do in my garage solo.
 
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