- Location
- Denton, TX
I think when I return my recalled jack stands I'll grab the 18".
It's the only thing besides bailing wire still on my 'don't need but should have' list..
The Dumb Question Thread
- Thread starter SledheadX
- Start date
It's the only thing besides bailing wire still on my 'don't need but should have' list..
RM975
First Fill-Up (of many)
- Location
- Templeton, Ca
LOL baling wire is not cheap anymore! We sold a wire baler and bought a string baler for just that reason.
General_Tarfun
Sliders
- Location
- Atlanta, GA
Yeah the mystery switches are definitely budget for a reason haha, I think at some point I'll end up replacing them with something like the Carlings just for peace of mind.
RM975
First Fill-Up (of many)
- Location
- Templeton, Ca
OTRATTW.net are great folks, plus custom printing is included on some switches.
- Location
- Covington, Va
That's where all my switches come from. I got them to put VDC OFF on their standard TCS switch for my X.
General_Tarfun
Sliders
- Location
- Atlanta, GA
Those look pretty solid and honestly aren't much more money than what I paid for some of the cheapo switches, thanks for the link.
- Location
- Denton, TX
I get these Carling 20A from CH4X4. I actually got this one off Amazon but they carry Nissan Xterra themed switches. 
General_Tarfun
Sliders
- Location
- Atlanta, GA
I have 3 of their switches. The last two I bought were way better quality than the first one, I went to redo the wiring one day and pulled on the connectors and half of them pulled the pin out along with it. Seems like the later versions integrated a much better pin system.
- Location
- Denver Adjacent
Carling switches ftmfw!
OTRATTW is the only place to buy them. Their service is amazing and you can custom engrave anything.
OTRATTW is the only place to buy them. Their service is amazing and you can custom engrave anything.
- Location
- Denton, TX
So I got sorta tipsy and pulled the credit card out on Memorial Day cause what makes dead soldiers happy? Tools, lights and booze, right?
Does anyone have a better option besides taking them off to secure shackles from growing legs?
Does anyone have a better option besides taking them off to secure shackles from growing legs?
General_Tarfun
Sliders
- Location
- Atlanta, GA
What are those things for?
- Location
- Rochester, NY
Looks like they're for replacing the threaded bolts that attach his shackles to his rig? Now how do you keep the keys from growing legs?
General_Tarfun
Sliders
- Location
- Atlanta, GA
Oh on d-rings. It's what I get for reading this while driving, at first thought I was talking about the leaf spring shackles haha
- Location
- Rochester, NY
Hey, I started thinking why (and HOW..) someone would need to lock the recovery strap to the D-ring. But I'm not driving, just drinking...
- Location
- Denver Adjacent
Yeah. I keep mine IN the truck. That way they don't make any noise and can't walk away.
- Location
- Rochester, NY
Dumb audio question. Has anyone ever tried to install aftermarket subwoofer in the rear hatch?
I upgraded the RF speakers over the holiday weekend and been thinking on how to upgrade/expand the stock subwoofer situation. I know the deal with the 1.2ohm/coil impedance matched to the amp and probably won’t touch it unless I find a really good match out there. I’ve also read everywhere about the rear locations for adding a sub, but haven’t seen anything about anyone trying to install one in the rear hatch in the flat on the passenger side. I don’t want to use the cargo space on the passenger wall where several of us put our fire extinguishers, nor use cargo floor space with a custom box. Has anyone looked at the hatch cavity for a sub and just not posted their successes/failures? I saw there’s a void in the sheet metal above the latch where a sub may? fit and maybe work an enclosed volume in there to match the sub specs. Just not sure if the shell will resonate and ruin the sound. Rather not cut an 8” hole in the inside hatch cover and find that it won’t work or sound like monkey farts.
I upgraded the RF speakers over the holiday weekend and been thinking on how to upgrade/expand the stock subwoofer situation. I know the deal with the 1.2ohm/coil impedance matched to the amp and probably won’t touch it unless I find a really good match out there. I’ve also read everywhere about the rear locations for adding a sub, but haven’t seen anything about anyone trying to install one in the rear hatch in the flat on the passenger side. I don’t want to use the cargo space on the passenger wall where several of us put our fire extinguishers, nor use cargo floor space with a custom box. Has anyone looked at the hatch cavity for a sub and just not posted their successes/failures? I saw there’s a void in the sheet metal above the latch where a sub may? fit and maybe work an enclosed volume in there to match the sub specs. Just not sure if the shell will resonate and ruin the sound. Rather not cut an 8” hole in the inside hatch cover and find that it won’t work or sound like monkey farts.
General_Tarfun
Sliders
- Location
- Atlanta, GA
This is prob the best solution
I can't recall ever seeing that particular setup but my first thought is that the shell will definitely rattle without some sound deadening mat applied to it. Like you I won't waste cargo space on one so I ended up putting a Pioneer 8" powered sub under the drivers seat which has been great so far, I've debated putting a matching one under the passenger seat as well.
I can't recall ever seeing that particular setup but my first thought is that the shell will definitely rattle without some sound deadening mat applied to it. Like you I won't waste cargo space on one so I ended up putting a Pioneer 8" powered sub under the drivers seat which has been great so far, I've debated putting a matching one under the passenger seat as well.
- Location
- Rochester, NY
Thx. Figured you’d be the one to reply being an electronics guru. Now, since I’m still using the factory amp, can’t use that side for any further equipment (yet
). Did/do you have the RF system amp? If so, what happened when going to your pioneer 8”? I’m wondering if amp power output to the other speakers is altered without sub connected due to the DSP tuning in the amp. I’d love to find a close match for the amp and factory sub enclosure first, but the height restriction may be my downfall.
kryter
First Fill-Up (of many)
- Location
- Aurora Colorado
how far can I move the front tire forward with the SPC UCA without screwing up the geometry of the coil over in relation to the LCA?
- Location
- Rochester, NY
Are you looking to keep within alignment specs? Are you lifted? Need to clear fender liner due to rubbing? Have you adjusted LCA cam bolts To move lower spindle full forward (are adjustable ones installed). Answers to above can change what is a good ball joint setting. The more you adjust the SPC ball joint forward, the less caster you get. But the more you adjust LCA forward, you get caster back. PLUS adjusting the ball joint IN towards the motor commonly maintains close to 0 camber. I found moving the lowers full forward, then adjusting uppers to one position (C first, finally B) then in/out to set good camber gave me good specs and drive ability. I tweaked toe once other settings were locked in. Overall you may get 3/4” forward but an alignment may not fall in Nissan spec. Someone correct me if I’m wrong. Lifted X’s from what I read like caster in high 2 degree range putting the ball joint setting to C or even B when matched with the LCA’s moved forward. No matter what, any change in the ball joint WILL affect your toe in/out and needs realignment. Did I ramble enough?
First off, You never replace a pin on a shackle. Second you never alter the piece of rigging.... Never, its just not done. Either leave them on the truck, put them in the truck, or don't have them. Send those things back. For the record you can buy 3, 3/4" Domestic made shackles for less than those two scary as hell items.
- Location
- Denton, TX
Oh I didn't buy them for 90$! I have the shackles in the truck and will keep it that way I guess. Thanks for the insight.
General_Tarfun
Sliders
- Location
- Atlanta, GA
Thx. Figured you’d be the one to reply being an electronics guru. Now, since I’m still using the factory amp, can’t use that side for any further equipment (yet
Are you still running the factory RF headunit? If so that will be your biggest limitation on what you can do with it, your options open up exponentially with a mid/high end aftermarket unit but IMO it's worth it. The sub I put in is self powered (built in amp) that gets main power from a blue sea box and everything else (audio/on signal) from a Pioneer headunit.
This wouldn't be earth shaking but similar to what you have now, an Alpine Power Pack mini amp which is small enough to hide in the dash somewhere so you'd be able to open up that passenger seat slot for another sub if you had an aftermarket HU.
kryter
First Fill-Up (of many)
- Location
- Aurora Colorado
Got it.. Start at the cam bolts and move up from there. Once the stock front bumper is gone I will have the clearance to move it all forward.
General_Tarfun
Sliders
- Location
- Atlanta, GA
I've used settings A, B, C, and D on mine so far and A was the best for highway driving (highest caster) but the problem then was that you can't get the camber to be less positive at static height even with cam bolts so I ended up going going with B. As for toe, it will affect it slightly but depending on how much you're moving it around you might not need to rush straight to the alignment shop because the change IME wasn't massive.
kryter
First Fill-Up (of many)
- Location
- Aurora Colorado
I'm just looking for a little more room from the tire and the back of the fender. I'm not having rubbing issues but I also haven't stuffed it into the wheel well yet.. hmmm I think I need a big rock in my front yard
- Location
- Burtonsville, Md
Could I spray the P.B. Blaster with Teflon on all the new bolt's/nut's I just put on every few month's to keep the rust down or is there a better rust preventive ??
- Location
- Livermore, CA
Rear cam bolts with notch pointing inward (bolt furthest outboard), front cam bolts with notch pointing outward (bolt furthest inboard) aka the ‘Brutal Alignment’ is supposed to solve for that.
- Location
- Denton, TX
I wondered this same thing and never heard anything. There's gotta be something to protect bolts n stuff..
- Location
- Denton, TX
I never received the hardware with my transfer case skid. Does anyone know what bolts the 2nd gen X uses to attach the under armor? I've emailed them a couple times now and haven't gotten a response yet. Do all the different skids use the same size bolts/threading?
Thx
Thx
If those skids use the existing nuts in the frame most are M8x1.25. I used some 25mm long flange bolts with 1/4" thick skids and 30mm long where the engine and trans skids overlapped.
The rear cross member for the transfer case skid doesnt have a nut so you need at least a nut and fender washer there. I used a nylon lock nut.
One example:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbil...-Steel-Flange-Bolt-2-per-Bag-802608/204281415
Last edited:
- Location
- Rochester, NY
The only thing left of the stock RF system is the amp and sub. I’ve got a pioneer AVIC6400NEX and JBL 6.5” components for doors/dash. I was thinking on supplementing the factory sub rather than replacing. Just not sure where a good spot is that won’t resonate and impede my storage space, and it’s not something I NEED done. Just have the itch again.
General_Tarfun
Sliders
- Location
- Atlanta, GA
I've thought about removing the factory jack and trying to fit something in that location since with the lift I can't use it anyway. I know what you mean though, that itch is hard to ignore haha.
- Location
- Denton, TX
I just found this list.. Was this hardware supposed to have come with the skid or are we on our own? I didn't get any instructions either.
General_Tarfun
Sliders
- Location
- Atlanta, GA
I ordered them from the dealer when I put mine on for about 10 bucks total, the oil pan skid bolts were different part numbers from the tcase.
- Location
- Rochester, NY
Yeah. I can never seem to find the end of the rabbit hole. Nor the end of the rainbow for that matter . That spot never crosses my mind due to the spare tire rods still used for my stock spare location. That may change too though. maxTerra?
General_Tarfun
Sliders
- Location
- Atlanta, GA
Could always throw them in the cargo hold under the floor in the back but I think you're on to something with the maxTerra
- Location
- Rochester, NY
Rear bumper spare tire carrier rattling my brain, and floor cargo well is where I’ve got tools for the rig. Started looking at sacrificing the rear driver storage well with the netting as a box location, and your tire jack well under the rear seats. That spot once the jack and plastic tray just may be deep enough for sub box of decent volume. I did however pop the tailgate cover off the passenger side to see that there’s a vacant cavity right in the middle. There is some reinforcements in there and the sheet metal depth is only 3.5”, but the inner cover has posts that add another inch or so. But it still means hacking 7-8” hole in the damn thing. Oh what is a person to do? Start with under the rear seats. No cutting, hidden and restorable. Now for the dumb question of this post. Why do I continue to surf this site??? You guys cost me $
It's a great spot for your Hi-lift. my 48" Extreme Hi-lift fits there just fine. Still looks like new.
westslope
Wheeling
- Location
- Wildfire country, BC
Use anti-seize. It will fill up spaces and prevent/slow corrosion. I often coat nuts and bolts with anti-seize even if "seizing" is unlikely to be an issue just for the rust prevention. For example, as I remove and re-install skid plates, I like to give the bolts a coat of anti-seize.
It can be helpful to soak bolts in P.B. Blaster (or similar) to clean them.