TGPWS 7: New Year. See if we can wash the stink off.

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XterraRising

Bumpers Installed
Location
Utah
It's more complicated than 4 bolts and pull the hub.

I agree with that. Unitized hubs are super simple. It’s been my experience that complicated things are usually a series of relatively simple steps followed in a specific order to accomplish a task. At least, that’s how I break it down in my head.
 

reaver

Lockers Installed
Supporting Member
Location
Caldwell, ID
Oh I understand it in a shop setting or if I did it more often.


Would it not be more logical to just do the whole control arm? Just get rid of those 20 year old rubber bushings while you're at it?

The wheel bearings are pretty easy too. The first Gen uses traditional style bearings instead of unit bearings, right?
You know what, you might be onto something here. It's more money in parts, but probably way less in labor.

As far as the bearings go, I'm not sure. I've packed a grand total of One bearing in my life, and that was on my tire carrier.

I'll get a quote for doing the lcas, and watch some videos on how to do it.
 

XterraRising

Bumpers Installed
Location
Utah
You know what, you might be onto something here. It's more money in parts, but probably way less in labor.

I’ve replaced many many assemblies of some such because the labor cost of having me rebuild it usually ends up costing more. It’s the world we live in.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
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Location
Denver Adjacent
You definitely have to figure time and cost into it. I get it. Your time has a dollar value. And you have to weigh that against what it will cost to pay someone else to do the job.

For me, turning wrenches is zen. I love it. I'd rather spend the day wrenching than hand over money. Even if it's something I've never done before.

Also, packing bearings is cake work. Bearing grease, a solid pair of gloves, and lots of repetitive motion. A friend's dad who was a mechanic taught me how to pack bearings in high school. Special tools are not necessary.
 

reaver

Lockers Installed
Supporting Member
Location
Caldwell, ID
I’ve replaced many many assemblies of some such because the labor cost of having me rebuild it usually ends up costing more. It’s the world we live in.
Yeah, it's stupid how that works. Also, some parts are just non-serviceable, which is dumb. I'm still learning all this stuff. I want to be able to do it, but I don't have the skills, tools or someone to teach me. I can learn a lot from YouTube, but that can only teach you so much, you know?

Another question..... whats a good brand of parts to go with. It seems I can't find oe lcas on rock auto.

I've heard moog has gone downhill recently. What about mevotech?

It seems my choices are

Delphi
Moog
Mevotech
ACDelco (didn't know they made Nissan parts)
 

reaver

Lockers Installed
Supporting Member
Location
Caldwell, ID
You definitely have to figure time and cost into it. I get it. Your time has a dollar value. And you have to weigh that against what it will cost to pay someone else to do the job.

For me, turning wrenches is zen. I love it. I'd rather spend the day wrenching than hand over money. Even if it's something I've never done before.

Also, packing bearings is cake work. Bearing grease, a solid pair of gloves, and lots of repetitive motion. A friend's dad who was a mechanic taught me how to pack bearings in high school. Special tools are not necessary.
I enjoy it as well. Though I'd probably enjoy it more if I had a better place to do it.

My driveway is gravel, sloped, with no shade, and it's gonna be 100+ this week.

That part doesn't sound fun to me.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
I enjoy it as well. Though I'd probably enjoy it more if I had a better place to do it.

My driveway is gravel, sloped, with no shade, and it's gonna be 100+ this week.

That part doesn't sound fun to me.
You're not wrong. And you have to factor that in.

OE LCAs are almost 300 each on nissanpartsdeal. Which is a lot. I'd probably still buy Moog as an alternative. My biggest concern on doing front lowers on a 1st Gen is the torsion bars. If the adjuster bolts don't come off clean, you'll need new ones. NPD has them for $3, which frankly astonishes me. But it delays things further.
 

reaver

Lockers Installed
Supporting Member
Location
Caldwell, ID
You're not wrong. And you have to factor that in.

OE LCAs are almost 300 each on nissanpartsdeal. Which is a lot. I'd probably still buy Moog as an alternative. My biggest concern on doing front lowers on a 1st Gen is the torsion bars. If the adjuster bolts don't come off clean, you'll need new ones. NPD has them for $3, which frankly astonishes me. But it delays things further.
You're talking about the ones that are used to adjust the bars, and not the ones that hold them to the control arms, right? If so, I should just order a few of them anyways.

I'm going over to my parents house tomorrow, and their neighbor is a big car guy. Loves fixing up old vehicles. I think I might ask him if he'd be willing to help me.
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
I enjoy wrenching. I also enjoy troubleshooting really difficult problems. It’s why I do what I do. I feel like an easy day at work is a wasted day. I love doing the “weird jobs,” as my boss likes to say.

“Got another weird one for ya,”

Perfection.
Those are the jobs I get at work. Hours of digging through loop sheets and 50 year old manuals, talking to operators and head scratching. It can be a lot of fun. Sometimes it all gets thrown into the floor and new stuff installed...
 

CAchief

First Fill-Up (of many)
Replaced the struts on the Mazda yesterday. What a major PITA to align the strut in the knuckle!

When I got it all buttoned up I took it for a test drive and there was a horrible squeaking sound. Turns out I had bent the dust shield into the rotor when I had been smacking the knuckle to separate the old strut. Glad that was a easy fix!
20210626_181633.jpg
 

reaver

Lockers Installed
Supporting Member
Location
Caldwell, ID
They are! I've almost completely converted to them. All my battery tools are M18, even my chainsaw and weedeater. The only corded tools I have left are a few grinders and my miter and table saws.
I have both a stihl chainsaw and weedeater. I also have a small 20v black and decker.

The gas weedeater drives me nuts, and the chainsaw is totally overkill for my needs. I'm. Gonna sell them, and get a cordless electric chainsaw. Leaning towards the 20v Dewalt, but the m18 is awesome from what I hear.


Also, I just found Robs video on the wheel bearings. He used the tool mentioned to repack them. It actually doesn't look that bad. If. I buy that tool and can get them packed properly, I feel pretty good about doing this.

Gonna go full pml while I'm under there.
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
I have both a stihl chainsaw and weedeater. I also have a small 20v black and decker.

The gas weedeater drives me nuts, and the chainsaw is totally overkill for my needs. I'm. Gonna sell them, and get a cordless electric chainsaw. Leaning towards the 20v Dewalt, but the m18 is awesome from what I hear.
When I was looking, I weighed them all against each other. There's a bunch of conversion here where I was deciding.

The ability to run a pole saw with the M18 weedeater (couldn't with a dewalt) and the larger bar on the M18 saw plus the M18 drill not stalling out when breaking through large diameter holes (vs the Ryobi) are some of the major reasons I decided to go with the Milwaukee.
 

TheCrabby1

I Smell Fishy
Supporting Member
Location
Burtonsville, Md
When I was looking, I weighed them all against each other. There's a bunch of conversion here where I was deciding.

The ability to run a pole saw with the M18 weedeater (couldn't with a dewalt) and the larger bar on the M18 saw plus the M18 drill not stalling out when breaking through large diameter holes (vs the Ryobi) are some of the major reasons I decided to go with the Milwaukee.
Jeff at Adrenalin Offroad use's nothing but Milwaukee Fuel cordless tool's . He still has some old pneumatic tool's that battery's won't torque near , although they usually just snap the stuff in half . Having used them at his shop I can say I'm a believer in them and there warranty.
 

XterraRising

Bumpers Installed
Location
Utah
They are! I've almost completely converted to them. All my battery tools are M18, even my chainsaw and weedeater. The only corded tools I have left are a few grinders and my miter and table saws.

Same here. Once I bought my M18 weedeater a few years back, I started cycling out all my cordless to Milwaukee. Just bought a 1/2” mid torque impact last weekend. Thing hits nearly as hard as my Snap-On air impact. The M18 batteries seem to get better with use too.
 

reaver

Lockers Installed
Supporting Member
Location
Caldwell, ID
Same here. Once I bought my M18 weedeater a few years back, I started cycling out all my cordless to Milwaukee. Just bought a 1/2” mid torque impact last weekend. Thing hits nearly as hard as my Snap-On air impact. The M18 batteries seem to get better with use too.
Honestly, the only reason I'm going with the Dewalt chainsaw over the m18 is because I already have the big Dewalt impact that I carry when I'm out in the boonies, and with the chainsaw, I'd only need one type of battery.

If I didn't have the Dewalt, I'd go m18.
 

XterraRising

Bumpers Installed
Location
Utah
Honestly, the only reason I'm going with the Dewalt chainsaw over the m18 is because I already have the big Dewalt impact that I carry when I'm out in the boonies, and with the chainsaw, I'd only need one type of battery.

If I didn't have the Dewalt, I'd go m18.

If you only have 2 Dewalts, there’s still hope. I still have an old DeWalt corded angle grinder. But most my corded tools were bought when I was an up and coming tech in my field, and I bought what I could when I could.

My chainsaw is an old Stihl Farmboss that my dad gave to me years ago. I did a stint logging back in the day, and I’m firmly entrenched in the Stihl camp.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
You're talking about the ones that are used to adjust the bars, and not the ones that hold them to the control arms, right? If so, I should just order a few of them anyways.

I'm going over to my parents house tomorrow, and their neighbor is a big car guy. Loves fixing up old vehicles. I think I might ask him if he'd be willing to help me.
Yeah. The bolts and double nut ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°) setup that lives in the adjuster. Under the front seats. That's what gets ufcked up if they don't come off clean. The adjuster itself (the bolt goes through it) and the anchor that is attached to the LCA will be fine. You have to do something pretty dumb to mess those up.

Advantage. If you take all that apart you can re-index your bars for a factory fresh ride.
 

maillet282

If you bleeding, Imma fix you
Moderator
Location
Ontario Canada
That's a good day.

Trim is up. Man I should have bought a nail gun 10 years ago.... That's NICE!
Agreed. I had a air nailer and it sucked putting up the moulding around the kitchen windows ( lugging around the 5g air tank from the garage to the kitchen with the 50 feet of hose ) sucked last winter. We now jeed to finish all if the baseboards in the kitchen, living room so i will get my moneys worth out of it at least
 
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