Xado89's Build - The Silver Submarine
- Status
- Location
- Hainesville IL
Alt?....Battery?
Jim, fixed that problem only to lead to another...
My X went home on a flatbed the other night. Was going down the highway when I herd a very muffled sounding "Pop", then before I knew it, all my gauges dropped and I was rolling off to the shoulder of the road. X is sitting in my yard now, if it starts and runs for one minute I'm lucky. Nothing is leaking from underneath, no fluids thrown around in the engine bay. Once again doomed to chase parts on this thing...>.>. Checked the oil, it was almost gone, barley anything showed on the dipstick(Only been about 3 months since I changed the oil). I've heard Nissan has a safety feature that shuts the truck off if fluid levels get to low? Anyone confirm this? Anyhow, I added some and waited a bit and started it again. It barley turns over long enough to idle extremely rough then die shortly. After that one time too, it won't start again. Turns over and instantly dies all in like- one fluid motion.
My X went home on a flatbed the other night. Was going down the highway when I herd a very muffled sounding "Pop", then before I knew it, all my gauges dropped and I was rolling off to the shoulder of the road. X is sitting in my yard now, if it starts and runs for one minute I'm lucky. Nothing is leaking from underneath, no fluids thrown around in the engine bay. Once again doomed to chase parts on this thing...>.>. Checked the oil, it was almost gone, barley anything showed on the dipstick(Only been about 3 months since I changed the oil). I've heard Nissan has a safety feature that shuts the truck off if fluid levels get to low? Anyone confirm this? Anyhow, I added some and waited a bit and started it again. It barley turns over long enough to idle extremely rough then die shortly. After that one time too, it won't start again. Turns over and instantly dies all in like- one fluid motion.
Howdy all!
Been a while since I've been back. A lot of stuff going on between working like 4 jobs and life itself. Got my X running fine again. Turned out had the same issue as Snickerdoodle with the screw in the dizzy. I loctited it down and been running great ever since. I've been dying to do some mods but haven't been able to afford them with some other things going on, so I've tried to keep it wallet friendly for the time being!
I decided to put the end caps for the rear back on, so I had to go get new hardware since I lost it all when I originally took it off. I slapped a couple coats of bedliner on them too.
Also decided to go back to black on everything. So I bedlined my hitch and bumper again as well, my wiper arms.
Here it sits...
I need to start saving and count my tax money towards new tires. These BFG's are great but they are dry rotting something fierce. A local guy can get me a good deal on Hercules Traildiggers when the time comes and I've been thinking of getting some Dick Cepeck wheels or Black Rocks to make it look a little nicer. I think I'm going to go with a 15x10 rim. I DO plan on cutting the front fenders up for turning radius and all that fun stuff. I also don't air down to much, maybe here and there slightly but I've never had a problem with traction, so I'm not worried about blowing beads. I'm just after a nice wide stance which I think will look sweet once it's all done.
One last thing, when I turn my wheel hard left recently I hear a cracking noise. It only does it sometimes, though. Is that my CV joint or something else?
-Thanks.
Been a while since I've been back. A lot of stuff going on between working like 4 jobs and life itself. Got my X running fine again. Turned out had the same issue as Snickerdoodle with the screw in the dizzy. I loctited it down and been running great ever since. I've been dying to do some mods but haven't been able to afford them with some other things going on, so I've tried to keep it wallet friendly for the time being!
I decided to put the end caps for the rear back on, so I had to go get new hardware since I lost it all when I originally took it off. I slapped a couple coats of bedliner on them too.
Also decided to go back to black on everything. So I bedlined my hitch and bumper again as well, my wiper arms.
Here it sits...
I need to start saving and count my tax money towards new tires. These BFG's are great but they are dry rotting something fierce. A local guy can get me a good deal on Hercules Traildiggers when the time comes and I've been thinking of getting some Dick Cepeck wheels or Black Rocks to make it look a little nicer. I think I'm going to go with a 15x10 rim. I DO plan on cutting the front fenders up for turning radius and all that fun stuff. I also don't air down to much, maybe here and there slightly but I've never had a problem with traction, so I'm not worried about blowing beads. I'm just after a nice wide stance which I think will look sweet once it's all done.
One last thing, when I turn my wheel hard left recently I hear a cracking noise. It only does it sometimes, though. Is that my CV joint or something else?
-Thanks.
Last edited:
- Location
- SW OK & formerly Eastern NM
Looking sharp man. I'm getting the mod bug hard today for some reason too but I'm in the same no spending boat.
Jack Stilts
Skid Plates
- Location
- Michigan
Daaaang, that's awesome news! And the X always looks good man :kewl:
- Location
- Bloomington, IN
Cool man. Cutting up the X is always fun. 
CrazySteve911
Need Bigger Tires
- Location
- Loris, SC
Thats the only problem I have of it. But still, I'm happy with it.
Sooooo, I think Karma hates me...I left work early by like 30 minutes because I didn't have anything else to do. Stopped at the store for a few things and on my way home, decided to take the backway through what we call "The Arbors Hole". (Arbors is a subdivision with a mudhole across the street from the gate). Anyhow, I've gone through this hole numerous times without problem. This time I got stuck and it didn't end so well....
I guess we didn't get enough rain to make it sloppy mud, instead it was like driving into wet cement and it just grabbed me. Of course my truck was lowest at the driver side front and the water worked it's way in.
All in all, I didn't get any water in my throttle body from what I've seen so far. Looks like it hit my MAF and shut my truck off. I drained and replaced the oil and filter already and cleaned all the intake tubes and my MAF and K&N Filter. It starts and drives ok. HOWEVER here is my new dilemma, when at a stand still, if I turn the wheel the truck will shut off. Anyone have an idea to what may be the cause and how I might remedy this? All in all, it was fun...gotta pay if you wanna play. =X
I guess we didn't get enough rain to make it sloppy mud, instead it was like driving into wet cement and it just grabbed me. Of course my truck was lowest at the driver side front and the water worked it's way in.
All in all, I didn't get any water in my throttle body from what I've seen so far. Looks like it hit my MAF and shut my truck off. I drained and replaced the oil and filter already and cleaned all the intake tubes and my MAF and K&N Filter. It starts and drives ok. HOWEVER here is my new dilemma, when at a stand still, if I turn the wheel the truck will shut off. Anyone have an idea to what may be the cause and how I might remedy this? All in all, it was fun...gotta pay if you wanna play. =X
Last edited:
Well, after cleaning everything out it ran fine for a while but died if I i turned the wheel while sitting still. I was about to to a seafoam treatment this morning when I noticed this...
Could this be the cause of stalling out randomly?
Alsoooooo, to make things worse I found this stuff around the oil cap today. I'm hoping when I drained my oil the night of the incident that I got alot of this junk out. I'm planing on draining and redoing it again this weekend too.
Thoughts, opinions and helpful tips are most appreciated. Thanks!
Could this be the cause of stalling out randomly?
Alsoooooo, to make things worse I found this stuff around the oil cap today. I'm hoping when I drained my oil the night of the incident that I got alot of this junk out. I'm planing on draining and redoing it again this weekend too.
Thoughts, opinions and helpful tips are most appreciated. Thanks!
Last edited:
Yeah, that broken intake tube will cause problems. Here's the link for a new one, as it's kinda hard to find
http://www.courtesyparts.com/16578-duct-air-xterra-wd22-2000-2004-p-6673.html
I still cringe seeing the gunk you bogged down in. I'd probably run the oil for only a few hundred miles and change it again until you're sure you have it all out.
http://www.courtesyparts.com/16578-duct-air-xterra-wd22-2000-2004-p-6673.html
I still cringe seeing the gunk you bogged down in. I'd probably run the oil for only a few hundred miles and change it again until you're sure you have it all out.
Tay-Lo
I'm the king of junk food!
- Location
- Upstate SC
When there's to much of a gap in the intake on the engine side of the MAF sensor it will cause problems. After I did my resonator delete my plug fell out the next time I backed out of my parking space and caused the engine to cut off......panicked a little thinking I screwed something up badly.
Thanks for the link! also, yes I plan on changing the oil 1 or two more times to help rinse all the junk out of my engine. I'm going to run a seafoam treatment too this afternoon when I get a new boot maybe unless autozone is way overpriced...
Surprisingly it only died twice on me. Once in the parking lot at work as I turned the wheel to back out of a spot and another time at a stop light, othewrwise it has seemed to run fine...next time I decide to hit the soggy bottom of a cement field I plan on having a snorkel...haha. This truck ain't a quitter though!
Tay-Lo
I'm the king of junk food!
- Location
- Upstate SC
It ain't broke it just needs duct tape it!!! Could just tape it for now so you don't have to worry until you get a new one.
- Location
- Hainesville IL
Alsoooooo, to make things worse I found this stuff around the oil cap today. I'm hoping when I drained my oil the night of the incident that I got alot of this junk out. I'm planing on draining and redoing it again this weekend too.
Thoughts, opinions and helpful tips are most appreciated. Thanks!
reminds me of what oil looks like when coolant enters in. not to scare ya or anything.
I don't think this is any better but my dad said it looked like water contamination to him, lol. which right now seems veeerrrrryy possible.
Anyhow...
I replaced that air intake boot and the PCV valve. Also ran some seafoam through the throttle body. My truck runs and starts ok for the most part. My steering is the concern now. When starting from a cold start, my wheel almost feels like it is locked it has very little turning ability. If I try and force it, the engine will die out. After it warms up, it appears to function a little better but if I'm sitting at a stop sign idling and turn the wheel it will die. My PS fluid shows it's at the correct level, does the crap go bad? I was thinking of taking some out and adding Lucas PS additive. Is there anything else I should be looking at that would cause this?
Well, it was a dark reddish color. I took about half of it out and added Lucas steering additive. No dice. I actually spotted what seems to be a leak somewhere right on the frame under the steering shaft. I'll try to get a pic of the location later. When it's running, I see nothing dripping or spraying so I can't tell where it's exactly coming from...
On another note, I changed out my diff fluid. I just noticed you can't pull the covers off the rear diff on these trucks...lol But neither of the plugs were frozen on which was nice. My diff oil was clean for the most part which surprised me. Added 3 bottles of Mobil 1 75w-90 and good to go again. The little magnet on the bottom plug did have some metal shavings on it built up, should I be real worried about that?
The diffs are overlooked a lot, but they usually wear pretty well; mine had over 160 on the factory fluid and still looked new. Metal 'dust' is totally normal. A single shard, if this is the first change ever, and there's no abnormal noise/vibration, I'd call it break-in wear or something slipped in during assembly.
Sent via wild ferrets on crack
Sent via wild ferrets on crack
This was the first time I've ever changed it and I have no clue when it was changed prior IF it ever was... I never had issues with the diff before though so I'm assuming everything it all good still. In the meantime I'll just continue to putter with my other issues of steering killing my engine and flushing my engine oil hoping to get all the crap from the mudhole out.
- Location
- Central FL
Austin, that's what my cap had under it when I had a leak in the head gasket. Now with that said since you just had the pan submerged it could be from that. I would change it and keep an eye on it. Has your coolant level been low? Keep an eye on that as well.
Sent from over there...
Sent from over there...
Coolant has been fine, Tim. No issues with that so far. I haven't pulled my cap or anything to look under that. I still need to get time to pull a couple of my plugs and see if any gunk is on them. In another week I'll be changing the oil again. It seems to start up fine and drive exception for this steering issue making it bog down at idle. I need to pull the cover off the bellhousing to see if my oil pan is leaking or if it's my RMS, hoping it's not the latter. >.< I end up having a basketball sized puddle of oil underneath my truck wherever I park.
- Location
- Central FL
Check the oil pressure switch too. Mine was leaking before I traded her in. I hope its not your head gasket either. Mine was running fine even with the leak. Not trying to scare you just tryin to give you all the info so yoy can get it fixed.
Sent from over there...
Sent from over there...
Well, if I have to end up trading it in, Looks like I'll just get that Titan I'm wanting quicker =P I'll take a look and see what I can figure out though. It also helps having a mechanic for a father so tools and labor generally aren't an issue unless it's something you actually need a shop for.
- Location
- Central FL
Yeah that's always a nice thing to have...lol
Sent from over there...
Sent from over there...
Well, It's been confirmed my RMS is leaking. I think I'm just going to switch back to conventional and throw a bit thicker oil in to prolong as much as I can. :/ My passenger side CV is shot too as well as my CEL came back on over this stupid evap code. Uhhg...just seems like I can't catch a break with this thing. I like it but I'm spending way to much money to just keep it going...dunno what's gonna happen.
- Location
- Probably in class..
On to the next one?
Well, with a new career in the horizon I may need to go back to a fullsize. Either a Titan or a Chevy 2500HD would be in my future unless I could find a nice 7.3L Ford. Xterra wouldn't be ideal for towing Dump/Landscaping trailers everyday. As of right now though, I just have to suck it up and pay for the couple repairs I can afford, and just have to Milk the others for as long as it'll go.
I went to finally replace my passenger side CV this weekend because the boot tore and all sorts of unfriendly's found their way inside. Found out all my balljoints are shot and I need new brakes. Gonna try to make the old balljoints last til new tires. In the process of getting new wheels fitted. The guys at Discount Tire, Ocala are awesome. Weren't sure if the BSing on a wheel would work for my truck so they ordered a sample one to mount before they ordered the set I wanted and have it end up not working well. Once I get my truck rolling again I get to take it up there and have them fit everything. Great group of guys here in this shop. If anyone in the central FL area ever needs tires/wheels I highly recommend them! The store manager, Joey loved my truck and the bedliner too which was sweet!
Now onto my question. When replacing upper and lower balljoints is there a preferable brand you guys like to use? Right now I only "Need" to replace one so I snagged a Advanced Auto brand one. I've heard some people like Deeza?
Now onto my question. When replacing upper and lower balljoints is there a preferable brand you guys like to use? Right now I only "Need" to replace one so I snagged a Advanced Auto brand one. I've heard some people like Deeza?
I have a full set of Moogs in mine and have been happy the few months they've been in.
You will want a 1 7/8" socket for the lower, and will need a press for the upper. I got mine done with a hammer and some hand tools, but cutting will likely be easier.
Sent via wild ferrets on crack
You will want a 1 7/8" socket for the lower, and will need a press for the upper. I got mine done with a hammer and some hand tools, but cutting will likely be easier.
Sent via wild ferrets on crack
Yeah, I have the wrenches and my dad's bringing home his press. It's nice having a diesel mechanic for your father. Almost any automotive tool I need he has somewhere in his Giant Matco tool box at work.
hope to be up and rolling again soon so I can get on with my new wheels!
hope to be up and rolling again soon so I can get on with my new wheels!
- Location
- Central FL
I know what that is...lol
Sent from over there...
Sent from over there...
My buddy brought a sample one over to my house last night to test fit. Everything cleared even with the wicked offset. Only thing I'll be doing is cutting some metal I should of taken a picture of the preview stance....muahahahahaha it's gonna be awesome. BTW LOWER BALL JOINTS SUCK! I only replaced one that i HAD to for the time but I have to do them all, as they are all shot. Just waiting til I get the new stuff put on. Uppers don't seem to bad to do but the lowers i despise!
I should of taken a picture of the preview stance....muahahahahaha it's gonna be awesome. BTW LOWER BALL JOINTS SUCK! I only replaced one that i HAD to for the time but I have to do them all, as they are all shot. Just waiting til I get the new stuff put on. Uppers don't seem to bad to do but the lowers i despise!- Status