What kind of CB mount and antenna are you running? Nice rig by the way!!!!!!!! I have a 2000 that I need to start a build thread on.
Not what you asked, but what's the code?H My CEL has been on but it's this stupid evap code I haven't been able to track down. I tried the easy fix and bought a new gas cap, light stayed off for a few weeks then came back. Truck doesn't seem to be driving any different though? Any other suggestions on what to check next, maybe?
Not what you asked, but what's the code?
That sucks.
Also, I seem to always get half way through your sig before I realize it's your sig.
Sent via wild ferrets on crack
I blame ForumRunner. It looks just like any other text.Weird it looks like a signature to me on my end. It shows in small italic font and its spaced apart. Is it like mashed or something on your end?
Sent using highly technical equipment involving satelites and space and nerds.....lots of nerds...
I blame ForumRunner. It looks just like any other text.
Hmmm, anyone know what the life expectancy on the T-bars are? It seems my truck is starting to sag again up the front. It has a wicked rake again all of a sudden. Wondering if it's time to replace them or maybe just re-index them and adjust it? I hate looking at it with all that rake, I want it to be level again .
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A note on the infamous 're-indexing': Re-indexing does not offer more lift or better bump stop clearance. Re-indexing involves removing the torsion bar from the adjusting lever, and adjusting the initial position of the lever/adjuster arm. This is only done for two reasons:
1) There is no more room to adjust the lever upwards. As in you have room in the bump stop gaps to continue lifting, but the physical lever arm that the bolt goes through interferes with the cross member, or the bolt interferes with the body. When you re-index, it separates the torsion bar from the lever arm, allowing you to start the lever arm lower so you have a larger range of motion for the lever arm to raise into the cross member.
2) Your bump stop gaps are already at 0.5-0.75" but the lever arm and bolt head are below the cross member. You want the bolt head and lever arm to be inside the cross member to avoid having it snagged on terrain. Separating the torsion bar from the lever arm allows you to start the lever arm higher so that when you reach your desired lift height, the bolt and lever arm ends up inside the cross member.
I did not have to do this, but if you think you need to, check the DIY:
http://www.clubxterra.org/forums/showthread.php?t=2554
http://www.clubxterra.org/forums/showthread.php?p=505782&posted=1#post505782
REMEMBER: THIS ONLY CHANGES THE FINAL HEIGHT OF THE ADJUSTING LEVER. IT DOES NOT HELP BUMP STOP GAPS OR LIFT HEIGHT.
I thought re-indexing was just to allow the adjustment bolt to clear the crossmember. See this:
I still have space available on the ucas but the bolts have run out of or are about to run out of room to thread. My theory was to readjust them and get some more threads and lift it that little bit more I have to maybe even everything up.
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Hey, did you ever nail the steering issue ?
I ask because mine has stiff steering on idle, sometimes - it doesn't stall out tho - I'm looking for ideas.
Thanks
Austin, I've always loved that pic of the sand spitting up.
-Jonny
Couple Updates:
Encountered an issue with my Dash lighting. They went out on me the other day, went through and checked all my fuses in the truck and under the hood. My "Tail" fuse was shot, I replaced it and it worked again for a couple days, now it's blown again. I read up that it is grounding out possibly. Is the only way to check for this to just sift through wires and make sure nothing is severed or disco'd? I'm an idiot when it comes to electrical systems.
So, I also Ordered a keyless entry remote for my truck the other day, hoping it will get here today so I can get it programmed. As far as programming it I haven't found a "full & legit" write up on what to do. I know you insert the key like 6x to get the hazards to flash, which I have tried and my truck does it. Anyone here know where I can find a link for a legit write up, or possible video on the steps for the remote?
I also got a towing hookup from Advance auto parts along with a 10" adjustable drop hitch, that I have to hook up. It still looks a little high even dropped all the way considering my hitch flip. Only thing I ever plan on towing is a single axle lawn trailer with a couple scags on it, though.
That fuse runs all the 'running' lights when the headlights are on. Plate, front markers, rear markers, dash, and the trailer connector.
pretty much. I did a writeup on finding this issue somewhere. Basically, isolate a section of the harness and see if it fixes the problem. Mine was a destroyed plate bulb, and a melted connector.\So in other words, go through all my running light wires and check for anything out of the ordinary?
pretty much. I did a writeup on finding this issue somewhere. Basically, isolate a section of the harness and see if it fixes the problem. Mine was a destroyed plate bulb, and a melted connector.
Get those on da truck noooowwwww
That is some nasty looking mud there.
Secondly, I got my keyless entry clicker in and got it programmed in minutes! So happy to have one, finally! This is the first vehicle I've owned with one. I feel spoiled now.
So how did you get your keyless remote to work? Did it come with instructions or did you find a thread? Where did you get the remote from?
Sorry for all the questions! Glad you had a chance to take advantage of the wicked drainage systems in Florida! My family hot flooded in!!
Thanks man!
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