Trailer suspension parts

[TKDx00]

Has anyone started specing out parts for a trailer yet? I've looked into axles but don't like the springs that come with them they seem too short. Anyone look into those yet?

 

[jmnielsen]

I looked into it at one point. I didn't like how short they were either, I think I would pick up somebodys used leaf springs after they upgrade to alcans. They usually go for cheap. Like under $100

 

[granitex]

There are about a billion and a half ways to do them. You can use just about any leaf springs that you want, or coil if you want. The problem with using a set of regular truck springs they can be way too stiff, a regular trailer weighs a lot less than a truck.

Another popular axle to use when building a trailer is the rear out of a front wheel drive minivan, springs and all. Other than that you can order custom axles with whatever width that you want. They are pretty cheap and you can get the exact weight rating and lug pattern on the hub that you want.

How much weight do you think the trailer will be capable of carrying, and what size tire do you want to run.

If you are considering running something larger than a 29, look very hard at a 3500 lb axle or better. They have larger bearings and will be able to take the abuse better than the small ones in a 2k hub.

 

[TKDx00]

A 3500 lb axle was the only one I looked into. Didn't think I needed anything larger. I was planning to use the same wheels as the X. By the time I'm finished with the trailer the X should have 32's. Don't really want 33's, too many extra things need to be done to accomodate larger than 32" tires that I'm not willing to do at this time. But who knows what can happen a year from now.

Most of the people on ExPo went with CJ leafs or Suzuki fronts. Weight wise, iono maybe 700 loaded plus the trailer so 1500 - 2000 lbs (BIG GUESSTIMATION!!!). The plans are to be able to stay out for more than a few days. Somewhere between a tub and a ExPo. Although I've seen some pretty nice tubs, I'm leaning more towards an ExPo.

Granite, your trailer was the one that got me wanting one. Do you have shocks as well?

 

[granitex]

No shocks, the tires are 29s and have enough sidewall to take up the job of shocks. The springs are stiff enough that they do not have a lot of rebound.

Most of the expo trailers are so overbuilt that it is incredible. I can move mine by myself, even loaded with camping gear and spare parts. Now if it is loaded with firewood or boxes of tile I can't but that is not what is normally in there.

You really need the 3500 lb axle to handle the rotational mass of the tire, not so much the load.

Now when you say tub, are you thinking of using the back half of a pickup? I hate to see that happen just for the weight penalty that you pay for the total towing capasity. Ie.. They weigh a ton, and you don't get any benifit from it.

If you have any questions about my trailer just let me
Know. I can show you what I did and why I did it that way.

The best way to start is to figure out what you want to carry and build the trailer around that.

 

[TKDx00]

No shocks, the tires are 29s and have enough sidewall to take up the job of shocks. The springs are stiff enough that they do not have a lot of rebound.

Most of the expo trailers are so overbuilt that it is incredible. I can move mine by myself, even loaded with camping gear and spare parts. Now if it is loaded with firewood or boxes of tile I can't but that is not what is normally in there.

You really need the 3500 lb axle to handle the rotational mass of the tire, not so much the load.

Now when you say tub, are you thinking of using the back half of a pickup? I hate to see that happen just for the weight penalty that you pay for the total towing capasity. Ie.. They weigh a ton, and you don't get any benifit from it.

If you have any questions about my trailer just let me
Know. I can show you what I did and why I did it that way.

The best way to start is to figure out what you want to carry and build the trailer around that.

TUB as in main storage space... and HELL NO to the back half of a pickup...lol Something in the line of 4x6 or 5x7.

I'm not talking about a shower, but I'd like to have a water tank. Not a gormet kitchen but I'd like a built in propane burner or 2 w/ a preping surface. A fridge, I read a few posts and links about making your own fridge... kinda slick actually. A sleeping area above that's long enough for me. And I need a second inverter back there as well for lights and a CPAP unit.

Since it would just be me camping I don't need 4 sets of dishes, cups etc. just basic cookware.
So most of the space will be used for MANLY GOODIES like tarps (I've got (3) 10'x15', 20'x30', and a 40'x60' from my Boy Scout days) with 5 aluminim military extension poles (4 corner and a center) and enough room for spare parts, tools, gear ect...

interestingly enough about this is that I already have 1/2 the tubing. 2x3x1/4 and 2x3x3/16.

Right now I'm going back and forth on a TUB where it's just for hauling gear that has to be setup or an Adventure type where most things are built in. The TUB would be cheaper to make and quicker to use but longer to setup camp where the Adventure one would take longer to make but easier camp setup. The base frame would be the same for both. Just the box and above would be different.

AND YES of course I have questions about your trailer!!! HAHAHAHAHA ... tell me everything!!!

 

[granitex]

Have you given any thought to doing an off road tear drop. Kitchen in the back, sleeping inside, very basic but ready to roll at a moments notice.

If I were going to build another one that is the way that I would go. For me, my tent cot is a good size and works out pretty well on top of the trailer, but you are enough taller than me that it would get a little cramped for you. You could always get a RTT, but for the price of a good one I could build a TD with everything that i would need or want.

For the most part I needed a trailer that would serve a lot of rolls, I needed to be able to work out of it as well as have a place to sleep when camping. That is why I decided to go with an open tub, now I can make a lid for it if I want to or need to.

Mine started out as a cheap Harbor Freight utility trailer. I went that route because I new all of the things that I would change would be a lot more work on a better trailer.

Once I got it home and bolted it togetherI added a two inch reciever in the back as a bumper and frame brace. And welded all of the connections as well as the bolts and nuts themselves(kind of like permanant lock washers)

On top of the frame I made a simple box out of angle iron with plywood inserts. I went with plywood because it is light, strong, cheap, and available. plus I already had a bunch in the garage.

A short while later I came into posession of a class 5 reciever off of car that was bound for a derby so it was cut down to fit and is now the rear bumper and second 2 inch reciever on the back. The more important aspect is that it is tied directly to the tongue of the trailer so it is one solid member through the center of the trailer. That and a chain through the safty loops make a great step.

 

[TKDx00]

Have you given any thought to doing an off road tear drop. Kitchen in the back, sleeping inside, very basic but ready to roll at a moments notice...If I were going to build another one that is the way that I would go. For me, my tent cot is a good size and works out pretty well on top of the trailer, but you are enough taller than me that it would get a little cramped for you. You could always get a RTT, but for the price of a good one I could build a TD with everything that i would need or want..

To tell the truth, I don't like the look of tear drops. Nothing against anyone that has one...just not my style.
RTT's while they are really nice, lets face it...WAAAAAAAY too expensive. I've got a Coleman 2 man with a 5'x7' footprint, 2 queen sized air mattresses and a 5x7 tarp just sitting around waiting to be used. This is why if been going back and forth between 4x6 and 5x7(tub or adventure). After reading most of the trailer builds on ExPo and pming a few people, I've come up with a design that I'm going to start on after NXM. Right now I'm lining up the parts and getting a few last minute option decisions made.

I'm going to be pretty busy soon. I'm seeing the flaws with my rear bumper and will make another one out of round tubes to replace it. The square tubing of this bumper will be reused in the trailer. I guess you could say the MOD BUG has really sunk it's teeth in me...lol

 

[granitex]

Are you looking at sleeping on top of the trailer when it is done? and if so are you looking at a folding top that that would provide a larger sleeping platform.

 

[TKDx00]

Are you looking at sleeping on top of the trailer when it is done? and if so are you looking at a folding top that that would provide a larger sleeping platform.

Yes. I've seen a few trailers that used conventional tents up top. Some with folding platforms and one that I thought was pretty nice. It had the platform on extentions to the frame. It held a full sized tent footprint platform. All he did was remove the covering tarp, raise the tent and insert the poles. The platform was made of water sealed plywood and the tent was attached to it with bolts in the tent peg holes. He had foam for the mattress. Looked pretty slick. It sat about 2 ft above the trailer. But he had a tub rather than a fully covered trailer.

 

[Maxterra]

I think I'll eventually build me an off road teardrop style, though not rounded.

I still have a lot of aluminum sheeting and various aluminum posts & extrusions from when I worked at Utility trailer years ago and used to build a few enclosed car haulers on the side.
Would build it aircraft style just as semi trailers are built. All riveted alum construction and then needing only minimal steel frame / tongue and fenders and gas can racks , etc.

Leaf sprung aftermarket from mid sized truck or SUV, hi-arch and long as possible in intermediate spring rate w/shocks. Trailer springs are too short and stiff and break from heat & stress in heavy off roading applications.

I just like the idea of having instant secure shelter. Had enough of tents!

Simple stove, water tank, pump, sink and place for ARB fridge on rails. Small heater would be nice. Solar panel & deep cycle batteries and nothing but LED lighting.

Think it would be a fun project, though I don't think the wife would like it too much. She's too spoiled with the 26' travel trailer. Things like potty, shower, generator and all those things women have to have in the outdoors.

 

[metzican]

So since I've been board at work for the last week I started to day dream about designing my own tear drop offroad trailer. Two reason. 1 easy to setup. 2. for the cost of a good RTT you can be half way there on a tear drop. without the expensive appliances. Has anyone seen these axles? I've been reading a lot about suspension I'm trying to find a cheaper but effective method of not have a straight axles across the trailer. Also has anyone considered getting custom hubs/adapters made to fit our rims since it seems next to impossible to find 6 on 4.5 trailer hubs.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200335742_200335742
http://timbren.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/ASR400-5200-Dimensions-Weights-Rev111813.pdf

 

[Golf286]

Hey Metzican, I've seen pictures of these axles but don't know much about them. It's sorta of a take off on what AT trailers does for their setup (just not as substantial). I've got an M416 that I've been rebuilding and was going to use a Redneck Trailer axle because they build it to whatever specs you want minus the 6x4.5.. The hub pattern will be a 6x5.5 and there's a adapter company here in CO that'll make the spacers in whatever thickness wanted.
Hope that helps. Bill

 

[metzican]

Gulf, What type of axle are you going with. Torsion, straight, independent. I was just thinking if I can prevent having the axle across the middle to hang up I would like that. But on the other hand I don't know if it is worth the cost of the independent plus the cost of having to make the frame that much strong to deal with the torque it will see. I'm kinda leaning towards a torsion axle 3500#. I just kinda liked how the one I linked was a 2500# suspension but 3500# spindles to handle larger tires.

I also came to the same conclusion of going with 6 on 5.5 for the axle and adapting it to 6 on 4.5. This way if my vehicle changes its alot easier in the long run to adapt it to the vehicles bolt pattern as its much more common.

 

[TKDx00]

Do you know the cost for the Timbrens? I like.

 

[granitex]

In all of the time that I have had my trailer I have never hit the axle on anything, without a diff it is tucked up pretty high and it is just a steel tube if I do need to drag it across something.. It has better clearance than the truck does. Adding torsion suspension to a trailer is a big extra expense that does not need to happen. Just about any junk yard leaf springs can be made to work. simple is better when it comes to the trailer suspension.

 

[TKDx00]

That's why I asked if the cost was known. I pretty much know what the parts will cost for a leaf spring set up w/ a 3500 lb. axle. Now trying to see which is cheapest.

 

[Golf286]

Gulf, What type of axle are you going with. Torsion, straight, independent. I was just thinking if I can prevent having the axle across the middle to hang up I would like that. But on the other hand I don't know if it is worth the cost of the independent plus the cost of having to make the frame that much strong to deal with the torque it will see. I'm kinda leaning towards a torsion axle 3500#. I just kinda liked how the one I linked was a 2500# suspension but 3500# spindles to handle larger tires. I also came to the same conclusion of going with 6 on 5.5 for the axle and adapting it to 6 on 4.5. This way if my vehicle changes its alot easier in the long run to adapt it to the vehicles bolt pattern as its much more common.

Hey Metzican,
I ended up going with a straight axle rated at 3500lbs with brakes. Couldn't justify the expense of other options. Hopefully one day I can get an AT Chaser but that won't be for awhile.. LOL!!! I know that AT does retro fits on trailers with there trailing arm but I have no idea what the expense would be.
Bill

 

[metzican]

That's why I asked if the cost was known. I pretty much know what the parts will cost for a leaf spring set up w/ a 3500 lb. axle. Now trying to see which is cheapest.

Do you know the cost for the Timbrens? I like.

here is a link to where they sell them:http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Suspension/Timbren/ASR2KHDS03.html

The cost is 590.64 without hubs, drums and breaks

What would you say the cost for a 3500lb axle setup would be with leaf springs?

 

[TKDx00]

What would you say the cost for a 3500lb axle setup would be with leaf springs?

I'm at work now...I'll post the links when I get to my home computer.

 

[metzican]

Also do you people think brakes are needed? If so what type of breaks and what size? Hydraulic or Electronic, Drums or Disc, Surge or break controller? I'm just curious my trailer is going to weight about 1500lbs fully loaded. I'm not worried on the street but what do you guys think offroading? I normally don't have any brake issues since I have a manual and just put it in a lower gear. I think I'm already stressing mu current brakes as I will be running 35" tires.

 

[TKDx00]

Here's a starting point. Sorry for the lateness.

Axles, Hubs, Brakes: South West Wheel

Harness: Marlin Industries

Water Tanks: Plastic Mart

 

[metzican]

I figured out that it will cost 714 dollars to do a 3500 axle with 2000lbs leaf spring with electronic brakes I believe this is with the brake controller too.