The Dumb Question Thread

TheCrabby1

I Smell Fishy
Supporting Member
Location
Burtonsville, Md
Well I just realized I have no recovery point's since I took off the factory hook to put the bull guard on ,so as much as I like the look I'll probably put the hook back in the front but "" What do people do for a recovery point in the back with the factory set-up ??
 

SledheadX

Wheeling
Supporting Member
Location
Rochester, NY
I bought a hitch recovery hook. Only on if I need it. Now it seems RoXterra is expanding his work to include a spare tire swing bumper. MaXTerra, RoXterra, oh what to do??? Then I can sell my hitch hook AND my factory hitch.
 

SledheadX

Wheeling
Supporting Member
Location
Rochester, NY
F6C03E9E-08B5-4D0D-BAA4-EFE1ADA81412.jpeg Update to my earlier question about possible subwoofer location in the rear hatch door panel. Looked into General_Tarfun’s suggestion about the spare tire jack well under the rear seats. Trying a little experiment... The upper box half will bolt to the factory tray mounts in the bottom and the amp will sit next to it driver side. We shall see.
 
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TheCrabby1

I Smell Fishy
Supporting Member
Location
Burtonsville, Md
Dam ! When you tell someone your bass can shake the $hit out of them :eek: Don't tell them their sitting on it , If your speaker had a name it would be EXLAX !! Did the seat's fit back alright ?
 

General_Tarfun

Sliders
Location
Atlanta, GA
View attachment 14388 Update to my earlier question about possible subwoofer location in the rear hatch door panel. Looked into General_Tarfun’s suggestion about the spare tire jack well under the rear seats. Trying a little experiment... The upper box half will bolt to the factory tray mounts in the bottom and the amp will sit next to it driver side. We shall see.

Wow man that came together fast and looks like a good fit. Is that a 8" sub?
 

SledheadX

Wheeling
Supporting Member
Location
Rochester, NY
Dam ! When you tell someone your bass can shake the $hit out of them :eek: Don't tell them their sitting on it , If your speaker had a name it would be EXLAX !! Did the seat's fit back alright ?

Wow man that came together fast and looks like a good fit. Is that a 8" sub?

well, that was actually the easy part. I had to cut the box sides on an angle but it fits fine. That is a 30 yr old Coustic 8” sub I had in my Camaro. I’ll bet the foam surround lasts a week before it disintegrates. But it works as a test subject. My issue now is where to put the amp. That won’t fit under the back seat like I thought. The back end is too low to fit. Look at the wedge shape I needed. I’ll probably just lay it on the passenger floor to get wiring done up for sound. Maybe tuck it up under the glove box. Haven’t even opened up the Sub box with a port yet. DECB7CF4-79F8-4968-B4A7-076FBBD700D4.jpeg94ADAF6C-1FBD-4877-87CC-4F0FE432DAF9.jpeg
B978F828-EBAA-42A4-A83A-8839685FA115.jpeg 74400438-AF2D-4382-9306-58851C5208A7.jpeg
 

General_Tarfun

Sliders
Location
Atlanta, GA
well, that was actually the easy part. I had to cut the box sides on an angle but it fits fine. That is a 30 yr old Coustic 8” sub I had in my Camaro. I’ll bet the foam surround lasts a week before it disintegrates. But it works as a test subject. My issue now is where to put the amp. That won’t fit under the back seat like I thought. The back end is too low to fit. Look at the wedge shape I needed. I’ll probably just lay it on the passenger floor to get wiring done up for sound. Maybe tuck it up under the glove box. Haven’t even opened up the Sub box with a port yet.

Yeah the amp is kind of large, I don't think there's enough room behind the glove box area but I could be wrong. As flat as it is it looks like it would fit great above the headliner if there were a way to attach it.
 

SledheadX

Wheeling
Supporting Member
Location
Rochester, NY
Yeah the amp is kind of large, I don't think there's enough room behind the glove box area but I could be wrong. As flat as it is it looks like it would fit great above the headliner if there were a way to attach it.

that last photo with me holding it is as far as it goes. . The damn thing is almost 3” thick, but I had that too from the olden days. That brand was an incredible mid-priced setup. That’s why I kept those 2 pieces. If it weren’t for being at the tail of the truck I’d consider putting it behind the first aid kit and bulge that out a little. It’s sloppy in there anyway. Not really keen on running that much audio cable through the cab. Maybe I can “tweak” the underside of the rear seat
 

SledheadX

Wheeling
Supporting Member
Location
Rochester, NY
Actually, the optimum port for that sub is 3.75” dia x 4.5” L. I gotta see how it is without one due to the box sandwiching against the floor carpet. There’ll be bleed and I may not need one at all. Plus, there’s already an existing 1” hole at the front panel I planned on using to feed wiring through.
 

SledheadX

Wheeling
Supporting Member
Location
Rochester, NY
Ok dumb stereo question #3. Has anyone found the need to re-route or close off their rear passenger duct under the driver seat? I may have found my sub location. Floor mats being a pain but they lock it in from moving around, and it sits right over the floor duct to the rear passenger feet (wait... rear passengers???). Definitely convenient for wiring. Thoughts?0C0F28CE-759C-42DD-B23C-4399D9F32015.jpeg60588281-F12E-4EB7-B3D8-AF5957572098.jpeg
 

General_Tarfun

Sliders
Location
Atlanta, GA
Not at bad spot IMO but you'd definitely want to block that vent off I think so in the winter you don't have the amp getting blasted with hot air. Wiring will be easy too, you can run it over to the center console and to the radio without running a ton of wire.
 

SledheadX

Wheeling
Supporting Member
Location
Rochester, NY
Not at bad spot IMO but you'd definitely want to block that vent off I think so in the winter you don't have the amp getting blasted with hot air. Wiring will be easy too, you can run it over to the center console and to the radio without running a ton of wire.
And the vent is not simply 1, but 2 rectangular ports about an inch separated. OH THE HUMANITY!!! Time to hunt for a 3D printer on flea bay
 

SledheadX

Wheeling
Supporting Member
Location
Rochester, NY
You might be able to pry that vent up so the air flows over the top of the amp instead into the side of it maybe.

nope. It’s tight underneath the back crossmember of the seat. I’d have to try running a tube along the seat’s inner rail. That’s for tomorrow in daylight again, or I’ll be messing with this all night.
 

SledheadX

Wheeling
Supporting Member
Location
Rochester, NY
In that case plugging it might be the easier option. I've never checked in 14 years how much air comes out of those vents but I'm guessing not much?
Probably. Considering how much we all stuff down there on trips/hauling/camping, it’s probably not worth having it anyway. But I’ll poke a bit.
 

General_Tarfun

Sliders
Location
Atlanta, GA
I'm looking at alternators this morning in case that's what's making the noise on my X and see that rockauto list the 110 amp version for my year, I know I can put in a 130 amp that was used on the later years but I also see a 145 amp Valeo model listed that's also brand new and not a rebuild. If I went with that one does anyone know if I'll run into an over charging issue?
 

kryter

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
Aurora Colorado
realized yesterday that the blue x has only 1 switch blank available next to the offroad light switch , Air compressor switch is going there. Any ideas on a new location without breaking out the dremel tool? Also the lower center dash is filled.
 

General_Tarfun

Sliders
Location
Atlanta, GA
realized yesterday that the blue x has only 1 switch blank available next to the offroad light switch , Air compressor switch is going there. Any ideas on a new location without breaking out the dremel tool? Also the lower center dash is filled.

I've seen people put them on the roof in one of the sunglass holder/bluetooth things.
 

BCXterra

Bought an X
Well I just realized I have no recovery point's since I took off the factory hook to put the bull guard on ,so as much as I like the look I'll probably put the hook back in the front but "" What do people do for a recovery point in the back with the factory set-up ??
2824E747-B0B2-4D17-9810-D8E121C78708.jpeg This is a rear recovery point using 1 hole from the trailer hitch, and a second one that I added. Also used the stiffener plates inside of the frame.
I was running this while I had my hitch off, but have since bought a trailer and put the hitch back on.
 

General_Tarfun

Sliders
Location
Atlanta, GA
View attachment 14505 This is a rear recovery point using 1 hole from the trailer hitch, and a second one that I added. Also used the stiffener plates inside of the frame.
I was running this while I had my hitch off, but have since bought a trailer and put the hitch back on.

I have one of those I bought a few years ago but never got around to installing because I couldn't figure out where to put it.
 

Xterrorista

Charcoal Briquette
Supporting Member
Location
Denton, TX
What gauge wire are you using to supply power and ground to your fuse box? 8?

I just ordereds some KC lights and want to put the relay/fuse box in I got awhile back.
 

kryter

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
Aurora Colorado
Yep. I put 6 switches overhead. And if you have the 09+ center stack you can get a Fronty 5-switch lower section
solved
nqSzE7ob.jpg
 

Xterrorista

Charcoal Briquette
Supporting Member
Location
Denton, TX
Sway bar/s removal

So after testing the new suspension out on several easy trails my tires are lifting off the ground too often. I don't daily drive it, unless I'm bored.

Is there a way to disconnect the front and back and just tie them out of the way so I can tell if I really want them off? I looked at the How-To threads but don't see anything related. Maybe after you guys advise me I'll write something up when I tackle them..
 

Xterrorista

Charcoal Briquette
Supporting Member
Location
Denton, TX
Getting smarter one dumb question at a time~

Jack stands.. I returned my unused HB murder stands and have wanted to replace them with something more reliable.

What are you using? I see 3tons from $25 a pair to $75/ea and ones with hydrologic jacks and others with double lock features.. What should I grab if $$ wasn't a huge issue?
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
Sway bar/s removal

So after testing the new suspension out on several easy trails my tires are lifting off the ground too often. I don't daily drive it, unless I'm bored.

Is there a way to disconnect the front and back and just tie them out of the way so I can tell if I really want them off? I looked at the How-To threads but don't see anything related. Maybe after you guys advise me I'll write something up when I tackle them..
You can pull the rear off. I did when I was stock and have never missed it.

You can't disconnect the front because of how it's positioned. It'll hit the TREs or LCAs and could cause damage. It's easy enough to pull and put back on if you see fit.
 

Xterrorista

Charcoal Briquette
Supporting Member
Location
Denton, TX
You can pull the rear off. I did when I was stock and have never missed it.

You can't disconnect the front because of how it's positioned. It'll hit the TREs or LCAs and could cause damage. It's easy enough to pull and put back on if you see fit.
Thank you good sir.
 

SledheadX

Wheeling
Supporting Member
Location
Rochester, NY
Getting smarter one dumb question at a time~

Jack stands.. I returned my unused HB murder stands and have wanted to replace them with something more reliable.

What are you using? I see 3tons from $25 a pair to $75/ea and ones with hydrologic jacks and others with double lock features.. What should I grab if $$ wasn't a huge issue?
I now have the Big Red 6 ton stands from Pep Boys and see nothing wrong there. Currently $45 on promotion a pair. Tall enough with room to spare on my 3.5" lift. Still won't use them alone without at least the spare tire under there and my big blue hydraulic poised under the frame.
T46002.jpg
 

Muadeeb

Nissan al Gaib
Admin
Location
Dallas
As big as you can fit. Depends on the terminal, fitting sizes, how much wire you need, how much you want to spend, etc.

No sense running 6 if you can't get a ring terminal to fit the lug, nor 22 if it's a 1/4" stud
 

General_Tarfun

Sliders
Location
Atlanta, GA
Sway bar/s removal

So after testing the new suspension out on several easy trails my tires are lifting off the ground too often. I don't daily drive it, unless I'm bored.

Is there a way to disconnect the front and back and just tie them out of the way so I can tell if I really want them off? I looked at the How-To threads but don't see anything related. Maybe after you guys advise me I'll write something up when I tackle them..

The rear you could disconnect the link at the frame and zip tie it to the sway bar if you wanted to try it out first before removing. I ended up putting mine back on after building a relocate bracket but where I live the roads are heavily banked and turn constantly which the SB helps a lot with.

As for jack stands I have a couple Craftsman from a decade ago and the new set I have are whatever Advance Auto sells, they run a 25% off coupon pretty often and I used it for those. All 3 ton versions and I usually double them up.
 
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