The Dumb Question Thread

RamblinRover

RamblinRover

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
Littleton Colorado
outback97 said:
Do you have your side mirrors set up so that you can see a bit of the side of your vehicle, or do you have them set wider?

trafficschoolonline.com

How to Adjust Side Mirrors for Best Visibility

It's important to learn how to adjust side mirrors properly as they are important safety tools, allowing you to easily stay aware of the road behind you.
trafficschoolonline.com trafficschoolonline.com

I'm a big fan of setting them out wider to cover the blind spots a bit better. I already know where the back end of the vehicle is, don't need to see it in my side mirrors.

Also, I don't trust in the mirror to show everything so I always look to verify.
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Mine is out as far as they go and it's still there why I was wondering if it's just a X thing
 
meisanerd

meisanerd

Need Bigger Tires
Location
Edmonton, AB, Canada
I always look. Theres been enough idiots that like to rapidly accelerate to get into your blind spot that it is just an extra safety thing.

Also, the new x has those little stick-on mirrors, and as soon as it is warm enough, those are coming off. They make the blind spot even bigger by hiding vehicles that I would have seen in the mirrors previously.
 
TerryD

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
meisanerd said:
I always look. Theres been enough idiots that like to rapidly accelerate to get into your blind spot that it is just an extra safety thing.

Also, the new x has those little stick-on mirrors, and as soon as it is warm enough, those are coming off. They make the blind spot even bigger by hiding vehicles that I would have seen in the mirrors previously.
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I love my spot mirrors. I think the 2nd Gen Xterra mirrors are pretty lacking without them.
 
SledheadX

SledheadX

Wheeling
Supporting Member
Location
Rochester, NY
Ok everyone. Titan swap dumb question. I have the mevotech supreme LCA with zero fittings, SPC uppers, and premium CV axles for my R180 through RockAuto. Simple enough right? Well, why the hell is there he bottom of the axle housing hitting my zerk fittings? There’s maybe 1/8” of clearance for the zerk at full droop. Once I compress the springs at ride height, the CV casing nearly bent the zerk over and snapped it in 2. Here’s a pic of the zerk. I’ll have to work it back together to show how close the CV is to the ball joint top plate where the zerk threads in. Everything else looks good. Looking for insight from anyone who has the LCA with zerks.
 

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SledheadX

SledheadX

Wheeling
Supporting Member
Location
Rochester, NY
Here’s a full droop and ride height comparison. I’m just hoping I can put a regular zerk in there and clear it on full travel. Then I just have to either loosen the axle nut, or the upper ball joint when I want to grease the fitting. I thought I had this all planned out to avoid these hiccups
 

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xyoverland

xyoverland

[fully disclosed]
Supporting Member
Location
Virginia
SledheadX said:
Here’s a full droop and ride height comparison. I’m just hoping I can put a regular zerk in there and clear it on full travel. Then I just have to either loosen the axle nut, or the upper ball joint when I want to grease the fitting. I thought I had this all planned out to avoid these hiccups
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I don’t know about the Titan specific ones, but @xterraography just put Mevotech LCAs on and they came with a 90° zerk fitting so he was able to point it toward the rear. I didn’t look at clearance though.

Edit: or is yours 90° but just sitting on there upside down for the pic?
 
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SledheadX

SledheadX

Wheeling
Supporting Member
Location
Rochester, NY
IM1RU said:
Go get the 90 deg. zerk fittings. They work just fine.
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Yeah. Mine was a 90 degree fitting. Both the body was so big and tall it wouldn’t clear. Went to pep boys 10 min befor closing to snag the metric assortment. The 90 in there worked with just enough room to get my grease gun on it. Now the dumb question is how fast can I get an outer tie rod? Or 2. Just took driver side wheel off and found a whole ton of slop.
 
xyoverland

xyoverland

[fully disclosed]
Supporting Member
Location
Virginia
What is the consensus on 1 1/2” wheel spacers? Are they okay to run with lots of off road? I remember generally reading that they add stress to hubs and such, but not sure if that was specific types or wider spacers. I like the look, but don’t want to risk any damage or maintenance issues.

Edit to add: specifically these: https://www.xterranation.org/index.php?threads/4-spidertrax-1-5”-wheel-spacers.10579/post-544780

@SledheadX did you have to trim the fender? I have 265-75-16 tires, and they’re P-rated. So the weight of the spacers hopefully isn’t a factor.
 
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Prime

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
I ran 1.5 non hub centric spacers for years before my swap was done. Only issue I had was with the studs on the front spacers. Every other tire rotation, I had a cross threaded lug and had to snap it and replace it.
 
C3NK0

C3NK0

Bought an X
Location
Rockville, MD
ffxcores said:
What is the consensus on 1 1/2” wheel spacers? Are they okay to run with lots of off road? I remember generally reading that they add stress to hubs and such, but not sure if that was specific types or wider spacers. I like the look, but don’t want to risk any damage or maintenance issues.

Edit to add: specifically these: https://www.xterranation.org/index.php?threads/4-spidertrax-1-5”-wheel-spacers.10579/post-544780

@SledheadX did you have to trim the fender? I have 265-75-16 tires, and they’re P-rated. So the weight of the spacers hopefully isn’t a factor.
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Et tu, Brute? :)
 
SledheadX

SledheadX

Wheeling
Supporting Member
Location
Rochester, NY
ffxcores said:
What is the consensus on 1 1/2” wheel spacers? Are they okay to run with lots of off road? I remember generally reading that they add stress to hubs and such, but not What is the consensus on 1 1/2” wheel spacers? Are they okay to run with lots of off road? I remember generally reading that they add stress to hubs and such, but not sure if that was specific types or wider spacers. I like the look, but don’t want to risk any damage or maintenance issues.
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ffxcores said:
Edit to add: specifically these: https://www.xterranation.org/index.php?threads/4-spidertrax-1-5”-wheel-spacers.10579/post-544780

@SledheadX did you have to trim the fender? I have 265-75-16 tires, and they’re P-rated. So the weight of the spacers hopefully isn’t a factor.
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i had to do the melt mod and a small clip/fold of the lower back portion of the front fenders. But I’m running 285-75-16 LT tires. You should be fine with 265’s and I bet just a melt mod. My spidertrax are also aluminum so they add only like a pound to the tire. The pic shows the area I clipped and folded back. My finger points to the top of the fold and the rest is behind the plastic guard. Others have removed it entirely but I found I could keep it and protect that spot from chips and still clear. There’s a how-to I think here somewhere (or on the____) if you venture over. I’ve had no issues with anything failing prematurely because of them, and Green trails at Rausch are the worst I’ve been on.
 

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xyoverland

xyoverland

[fully disclosed]
Supporting Member
Location
Virginia
Anybody tried to paint anodized aluminum? I just realized the bright blue Spidertrax will be very visible with my wheels and I won’t like that at all.
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xyoverland

xyoverland

[fully disclosed]
Supporting Member
Location
Virginia
Prime said:
Scuff it with 200grit and paint away. Anodizing is a surface coating. Paint holds with scratches. I did it with my old spacers. Worked fine.
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What kind of paint did you use that help up for a long time? And did you use self-etching primer? I’ve seen some sites say to use it, and some say not to bother because the anodization will hold it without it better.
 
Prime

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
ffxcores said:
What kind of paint did you use that help up for a long time? And did you use self-etching primer? I’ve seen some sites say to use it, and some say not to bother because the anodization will hold it without it better.
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I used VHT wheel paint. The same paint I used on the Titan wheels. Held up great.
 
RamblinRover

RamblinRover

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
Littleton Colorado
Ok gonna post this here as well it's....

Anyways what year did they fix the 4.0l issue with the chain guides? If I'm going to get another engine I want that to be a none issue not one I need to worry about right away. I'm guessing as it's been updated remans would also come with the new style.
 
Zack.

Zack.

Has been dubbed Arnold
Supporting Member
Location
Livermore, CA
Any tips on separating a cross threaded nut/bolt in a less than ideal space?

I was installing a rack on my Subaru and was tightening down the last clamp to the rail - couldn’t tighten it anymore but the clamp was still loose. Figured maybe I didn’t have it aligned quite right so I went to loosen it up some to adjust and that’s when I realized it was ufcked. Not a lot of room to get a saw in, and don’t think heat is a great idea right by the roof of a new car. shiat like this is so frustrating.
 
TerryD

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
Zack. said:
Any tips on separating a cross threaded nut/bolt in a less than ideal space?

I was installing a rack on my Subaru and was tightening down the last clamp to the rail - couldn’t tighten it anymore but the clamp was still loose. Figured maybe I didn’t have it aligned quite right so I went to loosen it up some to adjust and that’s when I realized it was ufcked. Not a lot of room to get a saw in, and don’t think heat is a great idea right by the roof of a new car. shiat like this is so frustrating.
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Pics?
 
IM1RU

IM1RU

Skid Plates
Supporting Member
Location
SLC, UT
Prime said:
2010+
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RamblinRover said:
Ok gonna post this here as well it's....

Anyways what year did they fix the 4.0l issue with the chain guides? If I'm going to get another engine I want that to be a none issue not one I need to worry about right away. I'm guessing as it's been updated remans would also come with the new style.
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Ya... except for that's not entirely true.

My 2011 got the dreaded supercharger whine at about 100K miles. Replaced every seal, the chain, guides, water pump, thermostat etc. from the dealer cost me $2900.
 
Zack.

Zack.

Has been dubbed Arnold
Supporting Member
Location
Livermore, CA
Zack. said:
My hillbilly fix to hold it down until I make it to ace tomorrow

View attachment 23178

need to find something to touch up the rail with
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Replaced the 18-8 nylock hardware with grade 8 and a split washer. Also, anti-seize. Went to do it all around, two went fine but the fourth one is another bastard. Leaving that one until I have more time to deal with it.

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