- Location
- New Mexico
Cool. I'm new to engine mods... what does an intake manifold spacer do for you?
-Rok
-Rok
Silver dude's 01 build thread
- Thread starter Silver dude
- Start date
- Location
- machesney park IL
This plenum spacer should reduce the incoming air temps by isolating the upper intake from the hot engine block. Cooler air = more power. At 3/8 thick it also will increase the volume within the intake thereby in theory giving more bottom end torque. More torque should mean the engine struggles less in overdrive on the highway. Engine struggles less, gets better fuel economy. But, its all theory. However, I've read about other nissan engines and the real world dyno result changes. But, who knows on this engine. Only thing to do is try it. I'm about to the limit with external engine mods. Not much more "bolt on's" I can do. As I result I figured bah we'll try it and see.
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- Location
- New Mexico
That seems to make sense but I'm just beginning to grasp the theory behind engine mods. Your build has been a driving inspiration to me. Keep on keep'n on and let us know how it works out for you...
-Rok
-Rok
- Location
- machesney park IL
Made a difference for sure. Just time will tell if I like it. Really shifted the torque curve to much lower RPM's however it took a little topend power in the process. But, off idle till about 3000rpm it feels more solid. I notice I don't have to rev as much on take off from a stop more smooth power delivery at low rpm. (5 speed). Might be nice to keep the grunt off the line especially when crawling. However, after 3700rpm or so it doesn't have the same gitty up it used to. But, in overdrive I use less skinny pedal which may change fuel usage. Idk I drove it a hour. I'll have to drive a week or so till the ECU makes adjustments and I really see what I have. Side effects are that it runs quieter, idles just a fuzz lower.
ChiXterra
Wheeling
- Location
- Northern Illinois
Do you mind take some pics of your on-board air setup? I keep going back and forth on my
SAS; whether I want an air locker, or just a manual one that uses the lockouts.
SAS; whether I want an air locker, or just a manual one that uses the lockouts.
- Location
- machesney park IL
I don't have a onboard setup persay... but I have the arb compessor underhood for the air lockers. A separate larger portable 12v compressor Mv-50 from amazon.com for airing tires when needed on the trail. I didn't want the compications of a onboard air setup or precious cargo volume eaten. With the arb compressor lockers are ready in seconds. Brrrrrrrrrt ready. With two compressors I don't have to worry about losing both the ability to air up and use lockers. Looking back I wouldn't have done it any differently. The only down fall is I can't run air tools. But, I don't break down enough to find them nessisary and modern day lithium powered tools I find are better anyways.
After a few weeks on the plenum spacer its obvious that the ECU has noticed. As there are no longer dead spots in the top end. Its really smooth all the way out now. I will say with absolute certainty it did make a difference. Torque comes on much stronger now in all rpm ranges especially the lower ones. On hot days it seems more awake then it used to. On cold days there is still a difference. Its not a amazing omg you must buy this mod it made such a difference. I'm not trying to sell spacers, or lead people the wrong way. The difference was small but noticable.Could even just be my setup with the volant and thorley headers, maybe this was the missing piece I needed. But, its near par with the difference my volant made though the volant was topend power and throttle response. This is torque increase. I find it to be worth the $80 and I'd likely buy another if I found myself driving a different X. It builds speed easier as a result I think my fuel economy may have improved. Ah still have to calculate it though. Would be great if a saw a digit increase as then it would pay for itself with time. Power is finally starting to be adiquate. With the addition of a new exhaust this fall and cleaning of the upper intake and injectors I think it will be great for expeditioning with my heavy camping gear. Still have cams on my mind but later.
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NMTerras
Suspension Lift
- Location
- New Mexico
Let us know when you calculate the exact gains...very interested!
- Location
- machesney park IL
Me pissing people off driving to slow. Hehe sorry but this was like the only time I hit 4wd the whole trip so I tried to present myself with the most challenge and fun by going slow. Front locker was hit to get out of the slick spot like a boss. No rear locker at the time. Done it many times unlocked and... in the rain at one time. Still haven't really "wheeled" with my rear locker. To new of a mod man I need to wheel again.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pgi-SdDzRc4&feature=youtube_gdata_player
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pgi-SdDzRc4&feature=youtube_gdata_player
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- Location
- Idaho!
Wow, I cannot believe I missed this build thread until now. Your truck is truly amazing. That mod list is very impressive. Nice job on the muddy trail. Mud = booo! Nice job!
- Location
- machesney park IL
Thanks!
- Location
- machesney park IL
Next set of mods will cure my Elecrical issues.
The special HID projector relay is shot. Low beam headlights only.
Winch doesn't spool in.
Tired of jumbled wiring from all my accessories.
So I'm thinking... if I go to the local pick and pull (LKQ) maybe I can find a car on the lot with a fuse box and relay set that I can adapt to look factory. Presto. I'll keep you guys updated. Should get there Monday morning. Maybe I can pull it from a altima or pathfinder. Would look cool to see a nissan logo on the box.
Figure I need
1. Relay for the hella's.
1. Relay for the HID's.
1. Relay for the HID flap.
1. Relay for a future electric fan
1. Fuse for the hella's
1. Fuse for the HID's
1. Fuse for a future electric fan
I think that's it ... thinking out loud here.
The special HID projector relay is shot. Low beam headlights only.
Winch doesn't spool in.
Tired of jumbled wiring from all my accessories.
So I'm thinking... if I go to the local pick and pull (LKQ) maybe I can find a car on the lot with a fuse box and relay set that I can adapt to look factory. Presto. I'll keep you guys updated. Should get there Monday morning. Maybe I can pull it from a altima or pathfinder. Would look cool to see a nissan logo on the box.
Figure I need
1. Relay for the hella's.
1. Relay for the HID's.
1. Relay for the HID flap.
1. Relay for a future electric fan
1. Fuse for the hella's
1. Fuse for the HID's
1. Fuse for a future electric fan
I think that's it ... thinking out loud here.
- Location
- New Mexico
That's funny... looking at the time of your post, I was also planning my attack on my electrical system at about the same time last night. I have roughly the same stuff to power (lights, efan and OBA). The OE fuse and relay box idea sounds like a cool idea.
I'm a big fan of the Bussmann series 15300 mini fuse and relay modules. They are really well thought out and come in a bunch of useful bussed and non-bussed input and output configurations. They really did a great job neatly squeezing a bunch of relays and fuses into a small weatherproof package. The specs are on pages 6 and 7 of their pdf catalog:
http://www1.cooperbussmann.com/pdf/fdee239d-3e78-4df3-832f-fea4236a26bf.pdf
I'm a big fan of the Bussmann series 15300 mini fuse and relay modules. They are really well thought out and come in a bunch of useful bussed and non-bussed input and output configurations. They really did a great job neatly squeezing a bunch of relays and fuses into a small weatherproof package. The specs are on pages 6 and 7 of their pdf catalog:
http://www1.cooperbussmann.com/pdf/fdee239d-3e78-4df3-832f-fea4236a26bf.pdf
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- Location
- S.Subs of Chicago, IL.
I'm glad some else has been thinking about these. I've been reading up on them and comparing against the Blue Sea brand. I've started a wiring center and need to make a decision on which. The 15300 says somethings are not supplied which is causing me concerns. The Blue Sea is straight forward simple. Whatchuthink?
- Location
- New Mexico
These are just empty "panels" that the consumer can populate with their own relays, fuses and circuit breakers. The thing that makes them nice is that they are easy to customize for specific needs and that they are relatively compact and weather resistant. I don't know of a Blue Sea product that compares to these, they do make really nice stuff though.
I like Silver Dude's idea to use the OE boxes. With some custom labels, they could add a look of refinement to his additions.
I like Silver Dude's idea to use the OE boxes. With some custom labels, they could add a look of refinement to his additions.
- Location
- machesney park IL
Yeah I couldn't open that link on my phone. Dumb openoffice app. I'm pretty sure I was gazing at the blue sea ones a while back. Anyway, most the ones I'm finding that are universal are boat based fuel panels. Which is good but they aren't sealed as much as I would like. Its like they are designed for mounting in the interior of the boat not the engine compartment of a dusty offroad truck. Much like the in cab fuse panel couldn't be mounted outside.
I had bought this blue sea panel about 8 months ago.
We use these same panels on come of the city buses I maintain at work there is no question of the quality. They just don't blend though. Stick out like ahhhhhh well he added that over there. Because, they are clear exuberant blocks and the wires exit out the sides like spider legs. Because the wires exit out the sides the cover is just for decoration not to keep dust and water out. Also because they mount horizontal on a flat. Makes it hard to find a place to mount it when the compartment is mostly narrow vertical. Which is why I want to find a tallish box where the wires exit out the bottom. You can easily screw it to a inner fender and pop the top and look down on everything from above. I'm thinking it might be tough to find something rather compact with the number of things I need. I've spied a few nice boxes via ebay out of early pathfinders. They house the horn relay, fuel pump relay and like 3 high current relays. All in a straight rectangle sealed box with a clip on cover. But, they lack fuses only two slots. So searching online it looks as though the box from the Dodge Neon is commonly used by jeepers. Couple nice BIG fuses for the high current fans, assortment of everything. But, its a bit large for my tastes. But, the engine compartment is empty on the right side. We'll see I'm in the mood to dig tomorrow never know what I might find.
Sent from my DROID2 using Tapatalk 2
I had bought this blue sea panel about 8 months ago.
We use these same panels on come of the city buses I maintain at work there is no question of the quality. They just don't blend though. Stick out like ahhhhhh well he added that over there. Because, they are clear exuberant blocks and the wires exit out the sides like spider legs. Because the wires exit out the sides the cover is just for decoration not to keep dust and water out. Also because they mount horizontal on a flat. Makes it hard to find a place to mount it when the compartment is mostly narrow vertical. Which is why I want to find a tallish box where the wires exit out the bottom. You can easily screw it to a inner fender and pop the top and look down on everything from above. I'm thinking it might be tough to find something rather compact with the number of things I need. I've spied a few nice boxes via ebay out of early pathfinders. They house the horn relay, fuel pump relay and like 3 high current relays. All in a straight rectangle sealed box with a clip on cover. But, they lack fuses only two slots. So searching online it looks as though the box from the Dodge Neon is commonly used by jeepers. Couple nice BIG fuses for the high current fans, assortment of everything. But, its a bit large for my tastes. But, the engine compartment is empty on the right side. We'll see I'm in the mood to dig tomorrow never know what I might find.
Sent from my DROID2 using Tapatalk 2
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- Location
- New Mexico
Those Blue Sea fuse blocks are pretty nice, but like you said, they're kinda bulky. Check out that Bussmann link when you get a chance, the 15300s are pretty sweet. They use the "mini" blade type fuses and micro relays so they are super compact. They are also made specifically for automotive applications. I wouldn't use anything bigger than a 40 amp relay in one though... or maybe a 50 amp relay with a 40 amp fuse. Not sure if they will work for your plans but I thought I'd throw it out there.
- Location
- Dickinson, TX
Very nice rig sir, I too can't believe I just saw this build.
- Location
- S.Subs of Chicago, IL.
Rok...do you know the price for the 15300. I'm either blind or you have to contact them for a price.
- Location
- S.Subs of Chicago, IL.
ROK,
I'm going to copy and paste the link into another thread about wiring stuff so as to not jack Dude's thread. So this can expand if needed.
I'm going to copy and paste the link into another thread about wiring stuff so as to not jack Dude's thread. So this can expand if needed.
- Location
- machesney park IL
Ah gonna put the new mods on hold for a while till I get the rig wheel worthy. Had bad luck as of lately.
UCA bushings need to be machined. SLR did a really crappy job making them they are way to big and slip on the cam bolts giving a loud BANG! Everytime I turn right. Wears my tires silly. Will never buy SLR stuff again to many issues.
Winch solenoid burn't up. I used the winch to spool the cable in one time. Never used it. Went to respool it for fun. Solenoid didn't activate. Upon further inspection it fried. Needs to be completely rewired and I need to finish my in cab controls to satisfy my greed.
Tires, wheel weights have shaved grams off because they rub the lower arms at full lock. Front tires are bald as a cucumber. But, luckly a scored two spare 32" bfg tires with great tread for free on craigslist. So remount rebalance and good to go.
Rear left brake hangs drags and wears funny. I think the parking brake hardware is seized on that side might be the issue.
Arb air locker fitting for the front leaks and needs replacement. I removed the line with pliers when replacing a bad bearing which crimped the fitting. Have a new one sitting on my toolbox though.
Torsion bars. One side is a stiff sway a way bar the other is stock. Need to get the stiff bars ordered and both installed.
Front sway bar. Bracket bolts are stripped and pulling away from the frame. To many trips last year with kayaks on the roof.
Front shock bushings are bad and rattle. Shock brackets need to be cut and turned to the proper angle. I'm tossing around the idea of buying coilovers and killing my torsion issues as well as my shock issues. Its really not that much more money by the time I replace the bars, and all the shock heims. Its really a question as to if I trust my welding skills enough to support the whole truck.
Headlights, the morimoto relay is finicky. Others have had issues with the projector kit. The high beams don't come on or they stay on when I turn them off. Thinking standard relays in a standard box. Hence why I was after the fusebox.
Arb dash lights I removed a dash panel and reinstalled it. Half the lights no longer light. Probably a wire somewhere.
Need to bolt the bumper to the frame and reinforce the frame horns. Yeah still haven't done that. Thankfully I haven't had to use the winch.
Muffler needs to be replaced big hole at the upper seam. I'm thinking flowmaster or maybe just a cheap throwaway glass pack. Tired of breathing fumes when reversing, its not loud it just sounds not so great.
Fix the floorboard heat. The headers and trans tunnel heat up so hot the a/c is barely effective. Thinking a layer of reflectix (like those aluminum bubble wrap window shades) under the carpet would do the trick the Corvette guys swear by the stuff. After seeing the display at the hardware store and putting my hand in a fold of it feeling its heat reflected I'm a believer. At $7 a roll at the hardware store it won't break the bank.
Replace all of the rear shock bushings. When I installed the shocks I used the stock bushings that came with the truck they are obviously no good and creak. So replace rubber bushings.
The BIG issue is the one I'm tackling this weekend. Bearing went out in the transfer case. I hope to tackle this tomorrow. Praying to gobble my calmini gears are not damaged. Putting a stock box in for now. Till I have time to open it up. I think the smaller calmini bearing failed. Can't say for sure.
That's what I need to do to be comfortable out in the sticks this fall. *sigh* off to work.
UCA bushings need to be machined. SLR did a really crappy job making them they are way to big and slip on the cam bolts giving a loud BANG! Everytime I turn right. Wears my tires silly. Will never buy SLR stuff again to many issues.
Winch solenoid burn't up. I used the winch to spool the cable in one time. Never used it. Went to respool it for fun. Solenoid didn't activate. Upon further inspection it fried. Needs to be completely rewired and I need to finish my in cab controls to satisfy my greed.
Tires, wheel weights have shaved grams off because they rub the lower arms at full lock. Front tires are bald as a cucumber. But, luckly a scored two spare 32" bfg tires with great tread for free on craigslist. So remount rebalance and good to go.
Rear left brake hangs drags and wears funny. I think the parking brake hardware is seized on that side might be the issue.
Arb air locker fitting for the front leaks and needs replacement. I removed the line with pliers when replacing a bad bearing which crimped the fitting. Have a new one sitting on my toolbox though.
Torsion bars. One side is a stiff sway a way bar the other is stock. Need to get the stiff bars ordered and both installed.
Front sway bar. Bracket bolts are stripped and pulling away from the frame. To many trips last year with kayaks on the roof.
Front shock bushings are bad and rattle. Shock brackets need to be cut and turned to the proper angle. I'm tossing around the idea of buying coilovers and killing my torsion issues as well as my shock issues. Its really not that much more money by the time I replace the bars, and all the shock heims. Its really a question as to if I trust my welding skills enough to support the whole truck.
Headlights, the morimoto relay is finicky. Others have had issues with the projector kit. The high beams don't come on or they stay on when I turn them off. Thinking standard relays in a standard box. Hence why I was after the fusebox.
Arb dash lights I removed a dash panel and reinstalled it. Half the lights no longer light. Probably a wire somewhere.
Need to bolt the bumper to the frame and reinforce the frame horns. Yeah still haven't done that. Thankfully I haven't had to use the winch.
Muffler needs to be replaced big hole at the upper seam. I'm thinking flowmaster or maybe just a cheap throwaway glass pack. Tired of breathing fumes when reversing, its not loud it just sounds not so great.
Fix the floorboard heat. The headers and trans tunnel heat up so hot the a/c is barely effective. Thinking a layer of reflectix (like those aluminum bubble wrap window shades) under the carpet would do the trick the Corvette guys swear by the stuff. After seeing the display at the hardware store and putting my hand in a fold of it feeling its heat reflected I'm a believer. At $7 a roll at the hardware store it won't break the bank.
Replace all of the rear shock bushings. When I installed the shocks I used the stock bushings that came with the truck they are obviously no good and creak. So replace rubber bushings.
The BIG issue is the one I'm tackling this weekend. Bearing went out in the transfer case. I hope to tackle this tomorrow. Praying to gobble my calmini gears are not damaged. Putting a stock box in for now. Till I have time to open it up. I think the smaller calmini bearing failed. Can't say for sure.
That's what I need to do to be comfortable out in the sticks this fall. *sigh* off to work.
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- Location
- Dickinson, TX
Ummm, can you repeat that? Jesus that's a list of crap to do.
- Location
- machesney park IL
Yeah compound that with the fact that I bought a new house. Don't have a workbench, vice, proper electrical, lighting or decent tool storage just a bare wall garage with basic tools. The tools I was using are at my dads as I hauled my tools to work. My transmission jack is 40miles away but I don't feel like driving out there and back with the bad bearing. Xterra and friends who work is the only mode of transport I have. I hope I can use my floor jack to lower the transfer box. I'd like to fab a mount for it but again no decent electical in the garage to weld with. So I guess bench press it and use safety straps between the rails. Last time it was on my chest was less the pleasant and I was in much better physical shape. So I guess a quick trip to source stuff today then hit it tonight after work.
, Ben
, Ben
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- Location
- Columbus OH
Good luck brother, I wish that I as closer to help
- Location
- SW OK & formerly Eastern NM
Good grief man, that's one hell of a list.
- Location
- Probably in class..
Good luck sir, I hope you finish this list off soon enough
Sent from somewhere by something
Sent from somewhere by something
- Location
- S.Subs of Chicago, IL.
Hey Dude...you're 2 hrs away, you need/want any help? Tue/Wed are my days off. I don't have ALL the fancy tools really but what I do have I'd bring.
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- Location
- Bowling Green, KY
How much did that after market fuse box run you? I need to get one of those cause I have 4 fogs, a cb, and 2 12" subs all running off my positive battery terminal and I'm buying a winch today which will also be run off the terminal...need to move some of the stuff to fuses!
- Location
- machesney park IL
Thanks guys, I hit up the local harbor freight took home $100 worth of tools. $70 worth of gear oil and brake clean. Got a big shop fan and beer might need it tomorrow. I'll try to document it into a write up so others can see how to remove the t case. Its really not bad. But, its real time consuming with the torsion bars, driveshafts, connectors and hard to reach bolts.
I'm off in 4 day sets. So only have off this Friday through Monday. Hoping I'll get the t-case on the ground today or tomorrow. Thanks for the offer though. Maybe a mod day in the future?
Like $35- $40 via ebay.
I'll sell you this one if you would like just shoot me a pm. Going a different route with the electrics.
I'm off in 4 day sets. So only have off this Friday through Monday. Hoping I'll get the t-case on the ground today or tomorrow. Thanks for the offer though. Maybe a mod day in the future?
Like $35- $40 via ebay.
I'll sell you this one if you would like just shoot me a pm. Going a different route with the electrics.
- Location
- machesney park IL
Flying truck ready for tear down.
- Location
- machesney park IL
Pulled the trans plug... bearing is out in the trans.. transfer case is fine. Needs a new trans.
Trans plug...
, Ben
Trans plug...
, Ben
- Location
- Columbus OH
Wonder how much the parts to rebuild it would run??
But at least now you know what it is for sure.
But at least now you know what it is for sure.
- Location
- machesney park IL
Think I'll pull the trans. Open it for inspection. See what I can replace. Most likely the input shaft bearing. If it looks like the gears are trashed (its likely). If I caught it in time where its just bearings I'll rebuild the trans and replace bearings. If I add it up and it costs to much. Then buy a savage yard trans with low miles.
I don't like the idea of aftermarket kits would question the quality.
Borrowing my grandpa's compact for a while so I have time to do it right.
Ben
I don't like the idea of aftermarket kits would question the quality.
Borrowing my grandpa's compact for a while so I have time to do it right.
Ben
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- Location
- machesney park IL
We are near 170,000 miles. My Nissan hardbody had a bad manual trans at 190,000. Some seem to say that Nissan mounted the fill plug to low, as a result one of the bearings at the top of the trans runs a little dry. I believe these are just standard muncie 5 speeds which Nissan reengineered. I poured 5 quarts in through the top shift boot area to get the proper oil depth but I doubt the previous owner knew to do this. Its seen hard use. I once shifted across the US from Utah to Illinois with no clutch slamming gears. Since I've picked up ownership at 90,000 miles I've noticed some sort of faint noise from the trans compared to my pickup. Trans also gets silly hot on long grades enough to heat the cab. To be honest I haven't changed the oil in about 60,000 but its fully synthetic. Could be a multitude of reasons. I drive it like I stole it. I haul a ton of toys on the weekends. The previous owner could of used poor quality lubes which weren't GL4 certified. I'm pushing armor, bigger then stock tires I've towed trailers.
Ben
Ben
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I see. Makes a lot of sense when explained. I hope the damage is only limited to that bearing and your rebuild is quick and simple so you are back on the road fairly quick. If you can take pictures of the rebuild so we have insight on what to do should one of us experience it as well.
- Location
- Hainesville IL
are you gonna try to find an old pathy trans?
- Location
- machesney park IL
Not sure that a pathy trans would work. I don't see why not. But, its not listed a interchange part to fit the X. Hmm maybe more research, it would give me far more options. Thanks.
Ben
Ben
- Location
- machesney park IL
The broke pieces look like syncro teeth. Interesting... cause it shifted just fine yesterday in all gears.
Ben
Ben
- Location
- machesney park IL
Its out
NMTerras
Suspension Lift
- Location
- New Mexico
I nominate you for botm and this happens...Oy! Hope it's salvageable....