UCA's

[ChiXterra]

This isn't really a suspension question, but more or less a rust question. I have a AC 3" SL installed, with the A/C UCA's. Within 1 year, the powdercoating is mostly gone on the UCA's (not very pleased) and rust has taken over. What can I use to get the rust under control, and I want to avoid taking the UCA's off..?

 

[granitex]

Just paint them in place, I just regular semi flat black. Over spray in the wheel well does not matter, and it is a very quick and easy fix. Just touch up as needed.

 

[Morpheus]

I had to remove mine to replace the bushings, so I had them sandblasted, epoxy primered, then paint

Remember, if you remove them, you screw up your alignment, so better to paint them on the truck,

 

[ChiXterra]

I had to remove mine to replace the bushings, so I had them sandblasted, epoxy primered, then paint

Remember, if you remove them, you screw up your alignment, so better to paint them on the truck,

Yep, that's kind of what mine look like. If they have to come off, I won't be very happy.

 

[TKDx00]

Hey...I got a problem. Got the ps uca off but the stud for the BJ didn't go with it.

Pulled the cotter pin unscrewed the nut... but the stud won't budge.

IS IT PRESSED IN? If so that means I gotta take the whole assembly off and press it out?

Do I have to cut it off/press it out? Mushroom topped bolt in the center.

What is this thing...lol It's not on the Courtesy Nissan parts pic or list!!!

 

[SnickerDoodle]

What about soaking them in CLR once removed? Save some money and effort for trying to get the rest off.

Mind you this is just a suggestion. I've had a great success with restoring some of my uncles old tools that have been rusted to hell with just letting them sit in this over night.

 

[NismoFire]

I call dibs on your UCAs when you SAS.

 

[TKDx00]

What about soaking them in CLR once removed? Save some money and effort for trying to get the rest off.

Mind you this is just a suggestion. I've had a great success with restoring some of my uncles old tools that have been rusted to hell with just letting them sit in this over night.

I PB'ed it. Might have to take the DS off and do the same... AHHHH DAMN here come the rain clouds.

 

[SnickerDoodle]

Oh man! Not the rain! We could use some here in jersey.. we just broke from a 10 day heat wave.

 

[ChiXterra]

I call dibs on your UCAs when you SAS.

Someone already PM'ed me about them.

 

[NMTerras]

Hey...I got a problem. Got the ps uca off but the stud for the BJ didn't go with it.

Pulled the cotter pin unscrewed the nut... but the stud won't budge.

IS IT PRESSED IN? If so that means I gotta take the whole assembly off and press it out?

Do I have to cut it off/press it out? Mushroom topped bolt in the center.

What is this thing...lol It's not on the Courtesy Nissan parts pic or list!!!

That would be your upper ball joint, sir...

 

[TKDx00]

HAHAHAHA you know I just found that out by getting the D/S UCA off. The P/S had completely come apart from rust and age. Never saw one do that before. There were no rubber booties. Can't use a pickle fork on these...time for trusty Sam the Saw. Dang I feel so noobish.

 

[NismoFire]

Someone already PM'ed me about them.

Sad. Day.

 

[Roninjiro]

FYI cheaper than CLR and just as potent... The Works toilet bowl cleaner... trust me... it is some strong sh** and only $2 if that at walmart

and for that upper ball joint that won't come loose.... whack it on both sides of the spindle where the BJ goes through a few times, then put the nut back on the BJ and whack it a few times on the side of the nut and it should pop loose.... if not you don't have a big enough hammer.. BTW make sure you soak it in PB blaster

 

[TKDx00]

see here's my concern with whacking something. Everyone says give it a few whacks witha BFH... I understand that. However, 90% of the time when I do I end up breaking something other than what I want to get loose. I'm just not as gentle a person when it comes to creating damage to something. You could say I don't know my own strength when I get pissed. When i hit something....I hit it...HARD.

So if you hear that I'm looking for a new spindle or 2...you'll know why...lol

 

[Maxterra]

Pitman arm puller works well or a tie rod separator tool

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Tools-Garage-and-Equipment/Pitman-Arm-Puller/_/N-264w

 

[TKDx00]

Pitman arm puller works well or a tie rod separator tool

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Tools-Garage-and-Equipment/Pitman-Arm-Puller/_/N-264w

Then this work as well. I have this... give it a try tomorrow.
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-2-jaw-large-gear-puller/p-00946903000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1

 

[Silver dude]

I have that same puller and used it for that same task. Worked like a charm. However, had to remove the cv joint.

, Ben

 

[idratherbe]

I gave up when trying to get mine out and bought new spindles . Call me a quitter but those things were stuck. Ended up costing over $600 for the 2 spindles, bearings and seals. If I could do it again I would have got a bigger hammer

 

[TKDx00]

... However, had to remove the cv joint. Ben

I love my X...I LOVE my X... I LOVE MY X !!!!

 

[Silver dude]

In your special case where the ball joint is already loose it makes hammering it hard as its flopping around unsupported. A solid hit just won't land across the suspension like it should. When its still in the UCA it has the structure to take a really good hammer blow. Think about the impacts the suspension takes when its rockcrawling. I'd remove the cv joint then use your 2 jaw puller.