Just making sure...

Macland

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
Well first you have to disconnect the discombobulater hose, and loosen the whosit clamps. After that you must drain the blinker fluid before attaching a dark matter separator to the frame. Then it will work.
 

Hugetanker

<img src="http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u7/ra
Founding Member
Location
Nesquehoning, PA
Same here same here... Im going to cave in this weekend or the next and lower my tbars back down, my bumpstops look like pancakes. It may be more comfortable to ride a horse than in my xterra!

I like pancakes.....haha but seriously, I'm hoping the bils will fix it.
 

AbuseTheElderly

<img src="http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u7/ra
Founding Member
Location
Pearl, MS
Well first you have to disconnect the discombobulater hose, and loosen the whosit clamps. After that you must drain the blinker fluid before attaching a dark matter separator to the frame. Then it will work.

That completely clears it up! I am going to grab me a set now. lol
 

xterror

Bought an X
Founding Member
Location
Arvada, CO
Well first you have to disconnect the discombobulater hose, and loosen the whosit clamps. After that you must drain the blinker fluid before attaching a dark matter separator to the frame. Then it will work.

Do you have to dilute that blinker fluid or is it already 50/50? :cool:
 

TJTJ

Skid Plates
Founding Member
Location
NJ
As a rule, shocks that will work properly w/o needing bumpstop extensions can compress short enough to allow compression to the same point as a stock rig....in the case of a gen 1 Xterra, that's 16" or less as being fine.

Once a shock is found that compresses short enough, it next just has to extend long enough to allow full droop....which the OEM ones DID NOT DO.

With a PML OR a 3" SL, the droop is about the same if the shocks can get to ~ 26" extended.

Adding AAL DOES NOT require longer shocks, as the AAL'd pack is LESS flexible than the stock pack...so a stock pack can require longer shocks than an augmented pack, etc....albeit 16" - 26" range shocks work great for either.


The Bilstein 5100's have a travel range of 16 - 26" (10" of travel), and fit a stock, PML or 3" SL rig, no problem.

They are also valved a bit stiffer than stock though, to help compensate for the added forces when the center of gravity is raised...which is also nice for firming up the control on a stock height rig, especially if its adding some armor, larger tires, etc.



So, all of that means that those Bils for the 3" SL kit are a direct swap for the OEM shocks w/o having to adjust or change anything else....unless you want to take ADVANTAGE of the added potential wheel travel.

This added travel applies to the REAR shocks. The front shocks don't need to be longer, as with the IFS, the arms just go up/down between the bumpstops just like they always do...and even with SLR UCA that add ~ 2" more travel, etc...even the OEM shocks are long enough to allow that.

The front shock replacement will of course sharpen up the ride/handling, and allow a balanced suspension set-up when you change the rears, etc.
 

AbuseTheElderly

<img src="http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u7/ra
Founding Member
Location
Pearl, MS
TJ, you are full of useful information. I'm adding you to my friends list and changing your name to Xterra Encyclopedia. lol.
 

AZhiAZiAM

Suspension Lift
Location
Fresno,CA
stupid question. but for the front there you using 5100's too or another series? im just about to order mine and just want to make sure.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
My turn. Just put the 5100s in the rear over the weekend...and I haven't had a chance to flex it all the way out yet, but it really looks like there isn't enough compression to allow the axle to hit the bump stop anymore. The body of the shock just seems too long to allow that to happen. As much as I've been able to flex it on some urban hills and such, I can't seem to get it to compress the last two inches. Maybe I just need more flex to test for sure...
 
Top