- Location
- SW OK & formerly Eastern NM
Back with a vengeance it looks like from they pic.
Silver dude's 01 build thread
- Thread starter Silver dude
- Start date
- Location
- machesney park IL
Yes sir and shifts better then ever before. 6 hours after installing tthe trans I loaded the xterra and drove 375miles north to michigan. To use a SUV the way it was mean't to be used. Hauling dual suspension mountain bikes, two passengers and their gear over 100 miles of rough logging road to get to the good mountain bike trails. Road some awesome bike trails. On our way back today.
Ben
Ben
idratherbe
Skid Plates
- Location
- North Shore, MA
Awesome dude! I would have been so nervous at first. Glad it worked out with no issues.
- Location
- Central FL
Nice! I need to deaden the sound in my X. The MT's make for a noisy ride...
Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2
- Location
- machesney park IL
The reflectix made a pretty noticable change in the coolness of the cab. It also deadened the sound slightly as a bonus. The shift boot area is still as hot as ever I need to layer some over the boot area. At least now it feels warm which is a huge improvement over the burning furnace it used to be at highway speeds.
I still feel the majority of the road noise comes from the roof and door seals. I have sound deadened the whole truck with a sound deading mat minus the ceiling. Yet road noise is still very loud and present. I belive it to be related to wind noise and the overall unrefinement of the vehicle. If I really wanted change some kind of vinyl sound barrier and accoustical foam would have been a better option for road noise.
While the trans was out I wire wheeled the frame and repainted the whole underside with 4 cans of industrial spray paint.
Also installed some new modern shift knobs. I plan to cut the transfer case knob down a bit. Being 6.3 my knee rests on the knob on long trips. I'm giving thought to simply cutting it 2" shorter for more leg room.
Couple things evident after this last road trip.
1. The arm rests friggen suck. Both my passenger and I had sore rubbed raw elbows. It needs change.
2. Some bearing is still out in the rear end. Still get a growl at 45mph. But, thankfully the shaking vibration from the trans is gone. Its definitly at the back of the truck and in every gear plus neutral.
3. The parking brake needs work. The left wheel is jammed.
4. Needs a alignment. I fixed my UCA's by making new correct size sleeves from DOM and replacing the bushings. Just between the bushings and the readjusted T bars the alignment and tracking feels... heavy.
5. I need a navagation system. I'm looking into prehaps a Kindle Fire tablet dash mounted with GPS maps. Between the tiny useless screen on my smart phone and the monsterous cumbersome laptop. I just need quick route guidance when the roads get rugged.
I still feel the majority of the road noise comes from the roof and door seals. I have sound deadened the whole truck with a sound deading mat minus the ceiling. Yet road noise is still very loud and present. I belive it to be related to wind noise and the overall unrefinement of the vehicle. If I really wanted change some kind of vinyl sound barrier and accoustical foam would have been a better option for road noise.
While the trans was out I wire wheeled the frame and repainted the whole underside with 4 cans of industrial spray paint.
Also installed some new modern shift knobs. I plan to cut the transfer case knob down a bit. Being 6.3 my knee rests on the knob on long trips. I'm giving thought to simply cutting it 2" shorter for more leg room.
Couple things evident after this last road trip.
1. The arm rests friggen suck. Both my passenger and I had sore rubbed raw elbows. It needs change.
2. Some bearing is still out in the rear end. Still get a growl at 45mph. But, thankfully the shaking vibration from the trans is gone. Its definitly at the back of the truck and in every gear plus neutral.
3. The parking brake needs work. The left wheel is jammed.
4. Needs a alignment. I fixed my UCA's by making new correct size sleeves from DOM and replacing the bushings. Just between the bushings and the readjusted T bars the alignment and tracking feels... heavy.
5. I need a navagation system. I'm looking into prehaps a Kindle Fire tablet dash mounted with GPS maps. Between the tiny useless screen on my smart phone and the monsterous cumbersome laptop. I just need quick route guidance when the roads get rugged.
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- Location
- machesney park IL
Sweet new hitch cover, I swear my most radical mod yet...
- Location
- machesney park IL
Removed the exhaust tamborine. Weight savings and a quieter ride.
02Xterra
Wheeling
- Location
- Central VA
Love this build.. where'd you get the new shift knobs from? Might have to pick some of those up for mine
- Location
- machesney park IL
Ebay, I believe I was searching for xterra shift knobs. If you buy them as a package its more expensive. If you buy the 5 speed knob then buy the transfer case knob combine the shipping you save a good bit of coin. 5 speed knob comes in tons of colors. Just went black cause I'm a mechanic. Just make sure you get the ones with threads.
- Location
- S.Subs of Chicago, IL.
I like the hitch cover...lol
- Location
- machesney park IL
Trying to find a way to upgrade the cushion on the arm rests. Thinking elcheapo way. Couple rubber beer coozies savaged for foam. Then some leather or maybe just denim (old jeans from a thrift store) for covering. Was thinking neoprene but then I saw the price.
- Location
- machesney park IL
I headed back to the UP over the weekend to go camping and kayaking with my girlfriend. Of course something came up where I had to tear the truck down moments before I left. Vibration at 45mph. I feared the worst...transmission! Or rear end! But, luckly it was just a toast U joint.
Thankfully the autoparts store had some Moog U joints in stock to get me rolling. I had to white lie and say I had a 96 cherrokee to get the right ones. The ones for the 01 xterra were the wrong ones to large. The ones for a cherokee are the ones for the front shaft on the xterra. So if you lie and say you need them for the frront shaft when. You actually need them for the rear you will get the same effect.
, Ben
Thankfully the autoparts store had some Moog U joints in stock to get me rolling. I had to white lie and say I had a 96 cherrokee to get the right ones. The ones for the 01 xterra were the wrong ones to large. The ones for a cherokee are the ones for the front shaft on the xterra. So if you lie and say you need them for the frront shaft when. You actually need them for the rear you will get the same effect.
, Ben
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NMTerras
Suspension Lift
- Location
- New Mexico
NMTerras
Suspension Lift
- Location
- New Mexico
Dude. Everytime I nom you for build of the month, something on your truck breaks. I'm done. you hear me? DONE!
:questions::RAWRx2:
:questions::RAWRx2:
- Location
- machesney park IL
Hahaha well that's a hell of a lot of noms! Lol thanks though. I know my truck is no show stopper and my pictures less then museum quality. But, it feels great to be mentioned. Sadly every trip I've ever taken I've either wrenched like hell before. Or even while. Last time I went to Gonemoab. My alternator bolt snapped off leaving the alternator hanging. Should be as easy as taking the bolt out and replacing it right? Nope broke flush had to remove the whole mount and drill the bolt out on a picnic table. Then when I got that fixed I exploded my clutch going down a hill. Drove home with no clutch. There have been so many problems. Like this last time before UP trip. Trans stripped a gear. This time it was U joints. It never ends but it makes for good stories.
- Location
- machesney park IL
Oh and in addition to the U joints I had wanted to change out a bald tire before I left. So I have a nice tire on my spare rack. But, it needs to be rebalanced as the weights fell off. (Why it was on the rack in the first place). So while the truck was under going U joint repair in my shop I dropped both rears and the spare off for rebalancing at discount tire. Lifetime rebalance for free. But.... I could not get my spare off the rack to save my life. My impact turned the stud. Vice grips could not hhold the stud. So I ended drilling it with my cordless for about a hour. Then cracking it with my hammer.
Thankfully the autoparts store had the stud and three stock style lugs in stock. The open end of the locking lugs I had on there before caused it to rust. So lots of anti seize compound and good to go.
, Ben
Thankfully the autoparts store had the stud and three stock style lugs in stock. The open end of the locking lugs I had on there before caused it to rust. So lots of anti seize compound and good to go.
, Ben
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NMTerras
Suspension Lift
- Location
- New Mexico
(facepalm)
- Location
- machesney park IL
Went to the carwash rolled the window down. POW! Cable hardware snapped. Preventing me from rolling the window up. Guess no car wash today...
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- Location
- Hainesville IL
my gobble ben was your X made with jeep parts? stop breaking her! 
- Location
- machesney park IL
Lol!
I did it good this time. Usually just the plastic stem pieces break. This is actually my 3rd time repairing a broken window regulator. Both rear windows broke one of them twice I think... But, this is the first I've seen a cable piece hanging out. Hope all goes well.
Ben
I did it good this time. Usually just the plastic stem pieces break. This is actually my 3rd time repairing a broken window regulator. Both rear windows broke one of them twice I think... But, this is the first I've seen a cable piece hanging out. Hope all goes well.
Ben
- Location
- machesney park IL
Nope cable is all knotted and frayed. Garbage... got a brand new one coming to the house.
- Location
- machesney park IL
With the window regulator on order. I then checked my lights and the license plate lights were both burn't out. Plate frame was looking pretty sorry. So made some more garbage today.
I soldered up a new set of LED's and am going with a license plate frame with a light in it. The LED bolts I was using before was a terrible idea. Dechroming the frame paint is drying.
I soldered up a new set of LED's and am going with a license plate frame with a light in it. The LED bolts I was using before was a terrible idea. Dechroming the frame paint is drying.
ChiXterra
Wheeling
- Location
- Northern Illinois
I was just in the UP too, Ben. Where did you go?
- Location
- machesney park IL
Copper harbor, rode the IMBA epic mountain bike trails.
Bounced south east thru Marquette then ended in Munising. There is trails everywhere that would link you around I didn't have enough time to hit the dirt as much as I would of liked.
Ben
Bounced south east thru Marquette then ended in Munising. There is trails everywhere that would link you around I didn't have enough time to hit the dirt as much as I would of liked.
Ben
- Location
- machesney park IL
- Location
- machesney park IL
She is back on the road... Window rolling like new. License plate visible at night. Took it for a drive today forgot how much fun it can be.
Ordered new OEM manual hubs off a Hardbody on ebay. The Warn premiums I am currently using will be up for sale soon.
Still have a laundry list of repairs or tweaks that I want to do but for now its good.
Ordered new OEM manual hubs off a Hardbody on ebay. The Warn premiums I am currently using will be up for sale soon.
Still have a laundry list of repairs or tweaks that I want to do but for now its good.
NMTerras
Suspension Lift
- Location
- New Mexico
Glad she's back on the road Ben...question though, why the hardbody hubs to replace the warns? I have the warns also. Not a huge fan as I'm currently missing one of the cap studs and I have no idea how it came out...
- Location
- Washington
Have a link to your new license plate frame/light?
- Location
- machesney park IL
There is a few down sides or problems with the warns. I'll admit I debated over if I should swap or not but I figured I'll get my money back when I sell my warns.
First issue... studs. Several people have reported that the studs are very soft and snap off in the rotor. I was a paranoid freak and used my torque wrench to tighten them to that specified torque in the manual. I forget its really low like 13ftlb or something like borderline loose feeling. But, as many times as I've inspected the wheel bearings messing with studs and half threaded up nuts just sucks and is very time consuming. I also had many issues with the studs loosening even with the high temp locktite. So I made the upgrade to the super hard 14.9 grade socket head caps screws which many others have said hold up without breakage. However, with locktite and lock washers I would still walk up to my truck on occasion and find the bolts finger tight. Not sure why exactly never had the issue with the factory auto's. Perhaps the longer bolts or wider hub flange spread the load or heat transfer better.
Second issue... they are long. The warns hang out a good deal further then the OEM autos or manuals. Which I'll admit isn't that big of a problem. But, they do over hang the outside of my rims a little over 1" inch. They prevent the usage of the factory "hubcaps" meaning if your running the factory style wheels like me your fronts have to look unfinished as they are to long to fit in the caps. Sure its not as bad as some Jeep axles I've seen but hey its still a negative. If I steered up against a flat rock I'd imagine it would slam the hub body though mine are without scars. Personally I feel the factory autos and manuals look better being more subtle and neutral without the bright eye grabbing chrome and gold. Only place I like chrome is a my headlight reflectors.
Third issue... Gaskets. The warns use a paper gasket which after a few wheel bearing rebuilds gets easily damaged. Next thing you know your using RTV or none at all. The factory manuals use reusable O-ring seals. Really just more serviceable overall, half the amount of screws to reach the snap ring.
Otherwise they have a been a huge asset over the factory auto's. The end performance result is better. They do the job better then the superwinch and milemarker hubs which are known to grenade.
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- Location
- machesney park IL
I got mine on ebay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chrome-Lice...Parts_Accessories&hash=item19d46e5381&vxp=mtr
Its a decent frame solid construction. My main goals were plate protection and lighting. I've previously do the to the way my plate is mounted on the side of the bumper have a had issues with the plate folding over after a fight with a automatic carwash. So far the plate frame has been good no complaints. It isn't high grade aluminum but I wouldn't classify it as cheap pot metal either. Most plate frames have plastic finisher clips over the bolts requiring you to use small hardware. This frame was nice in that I could use large high grade hardware without issue. Came with a decent standard festoon bulb. I swapped it for a homemade led strip. Though you could easily buy LED festoon bulbs that fit in the included holder if that is your thing.
NMTerras
Suspension Lift
- Location
- New Mexico
Yep same issues with the studs. Let me know how the hardbody hubs work out...
- Location
- machesney park IL
13/16 less tall then the Warns and shorter then the factory autos. It also only takes a 180 degree turn to lock between selections. The Warns by comparison were harder to turn and they had to rotate 340 degrees to lock between selections. The internals are larger in the factory manuals. The hubs are way easier to service requiring only one wrench to disassemble. The snap ring is also right out in the open making it way easier to remove. Love them so far.
Note the dials and how far they have to turn.
The hubs are less blingy and almost snub nosed by comparison to the Warns. But, the factory hub trim covers once I find some should make them look more complete.
If you guys want some more info on either hub lemme know.
Note the dials and how far they have to turn.
The hubs are less blingy and almost snub nosed by comparison to the Warns. But, the factory hub trim covers once I find some should make them look more complete.
If you guys want some more info on either hub lemme know.
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- Location
- Probably in class..
^ this..
- Location
- machesney park IL
Blah wish I could of made it to NXM2 I'm thinking 3... 3rd time is the charm. Hungry for some off roading as of lately. Thinking of patching together a expedition trip through Wisconsin. Just dirt roads from Illinois to Minnesota might be fun in the fall colors here in the Midwest. Otherwise I seem to have my eye on the Xtoberfest going on in Indiana.
Did some minor work building shackles today. I hope to get them on later tonight. I have a rake of about 3/4" of a inch the rear being higher. But, I've found when loaded down the headlights aim high and the truck squats back a good bit. The problem being Alcan leaf springs were never quite exactly as I ordered they feel softer then stock and have slowly started to lose lift height over the years. I never really had full armor and ridiculous camping gear in mind when I ordered them way back when. This whole time I have been running a aftermarket shackle setup that was only a little longer then stock to boost my lift 1" and prevent the shackle flip issues I was having with these flexible springs. I could really use a airbag setup or something adjustable. But, for now just longer shackles to level the truck and get my suspension travel back.
I started the day with some fresh 13/16 1' foot long cold roll steel fresh from the metal supply shop a few blocks from my house. Then cut it to 3.5" long and drilled a 1/2 hole through them. Presto we have sleeves. The factory ones measured 0.83 but closest i could find was a imperial size at 0.81 so it will have to do. if anything it should give me more flexibility.
Then I picked up several bolts and used the offset shackles from Ruffstuff specialties. They are pretty absurd at 3/8" steel. They have a hole in the middle to weld rod. But, I don't see the need these are not going to bend and without bracing it allows for more pivoting and flex from the rear end.
Install to come soon. I'm expecting another inch of lift. I recently cranked the front 1/2" and this should put me where I need to be to have a slight 1 1/2 rake when unloaded.
Did some minor work building shackles today. I hope to get them on later tonight. I have a rake of about 3/4" of a inch the rear being higher. But, I've found when loaded down the headlights aim high and the truck squats back a good bit. The problem being Alcan leaf springs were never quite exactly as I ordered they feel softer then stock and have slowly started to lose lift height over the years. I never really had full armor and ridiculous camping gear in mind when I ordered them way back when. This whole time I have been running a aftermarket shackle setup that was only a little longer then stock to boost my lift 1" and prevent the shackle flip issues I was having with these flexible springs. I could really use a airbag setup or something adjustable. But, for now just longer shackles to level the truck and get my suspension travel back.
I started the day with some fresh 13/16 1' foot long cold roll steel fresh from the metal supply shop a few blocks from my house. Then cut it to 3.5" long and drilled a 1/2 hole through them. Presto we have sleeves. The factory ones measured 0.83 but closest i could find was a imperial size at 0.81 so it will have to do. if anything it should give me more flexibility.
Then I picked up several bolts and used the offset shackles from Ruffstuff specialties. They are pretty absurd at 3/8" steel. They have a hole in the middle to weld rod. But, I don't see the need these are not going to bend and without bracing it allows for more pivoting and flex from the rear end.
Install to come soon. I'm expecting another inch of lift. I recently cranked the front 1/2" and this should put me where I need to be to have a slight 1 1/2 rake when unloaded.
- Location
- S.Subs of Chicago, IL.
This is some great metal work. Do you take orders for custom work? Cause I can think of a few things I'd like created. To coin a phrase...Can we talk?
- Location
- machesney park IL
Depends since your some what close if you need help with cutting something, welding something, basic machining, just let me know and I'll see what I can do. I don't really want any projects seems I already don"t have enough time for my own projects. Already have a short list of stuff I need to do to my X that I'm struggling to find time to do. Still need to put these shackles on, then make a new sleeve from my UCA, figure out what is banging up front, shorten the transfer case shifter. mount my garage heater in the garage so I can use the garage during the next few months. Have like a zillion other things on the back burner like a camping trailer, fixing the winch so I can use it this winter, parking brake so I can park.