Why so much lift with an SAS

Roninjiro

Roninjiro

Need Bigger Tires
Location
Austin,TX
I am just trying to figure out why it requires so much lift with a SAS conversion. I have been thinking about doing it, but I don't like the idea of being lifted so high. SAS guys please chime and give me a little insight here.
 
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drbandkgb

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
I've seen some SAS Xterras that sit lower.. Most want the hight for lots of flex..

I think many do the Spring on top of axel too..
 
Roninjiro

Roninjiro

Need Bigger Tires
Location
Austin,TX
hmmm... well I am shooting around the idea, but I don't want to go more than an inch higher then where I am now up front. Can you link me or point me to the right direction of the lower SAS guys?
 
ChiXterra

ChiXterra

Wheeling
Location
Northern Illinois
No one says you have to go big. I want to clear 35" tires with no addition of a BL, which requires a greater suspension lift. My big thing is that I would rather not replace the components of the IFS system regularly, especially when it comes to wheeling. Most go for a SOA in the rear, which that alone will add probably near 4" in the rear (new perch, etc.). Then, to match, and get an acceptable rake, 10" Coilovers (maybe 12" depending on setup) are pretty popular under the front. Some do radius arms like I am doing, and what Calmini offers, others do leaf springs like midget did. The important thing, is that the solid axle up front gives you an opportunity to customize the height as you wish. You don't have to run 35" tires, you could stick with 33" tires. But, it offers beefy steering components, true lockers, and more flex. I never thought the X road that well when driving anyways, so I doubt that the solid axle will make it feel that much different as far as comfort. You can make it as simple as you want (Calmini kit), or as unique as you want (midget's ride). You don't have to SOA in the rear, you can keep the rear the same, and just run spacers in the back axle, with a Wagoneer D44 up front as the Calmini kit calls for. You can take the measurements for what you want, and you can run shorter coilovers.

The possibilities are kind of endless. You dream it, it can be built.
 
Roninjiro

Roninjiro

Need Bigger Tires
Location
Austin,TX
I haven't had a lot of issues with mine except with Moog ball joints, but other than that I really hate the torsion bar system. I have been thinking about it, just wondering about height variations and what hits when you get to down to the normal 3" lift height. For instance the calmini kit where the arms that come off that crossmember to the axle... would they hit the new calmini transmission crossmember when the springs are adjusted lower?

I guess I may be asking a bit much without me actually having eyes on a conversion up close... sux being where there are no real modified x's
 
02Xterra

02Xterra

Wheeling
Location
Central VA
It just depends on how you want the rig to look and what you're building it for.

'Maslin' on pirate4x4, from the 'show us your SAS projects' thread in the Nissan section

100_0351.jpg


He says, "used a dana 44 from a 79 f150, running stock radius arms, DOM steering and 4" TJ lift coils" and its around 21" at the frame rail and its on 33's

Check out post 226 in this thread http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=457037

pirate4x4.com and roninwheelers.com are both very good sources for sas tech stuff :D



 
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drbandkgb

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
Thanks for posting that lower SAS.. I knew I seen one.. Just couldn't remember what forum it was on
 
Silver dude

Silver dude

Sliders
Founding Member
Location
machesney park IL
I think on most builds its the clearance of the links to the frame. On full compression the links would hit the frame rails.. Calmini states it lifts you 6" which isn't that bad. Though I agree with you completely with them being to high.
 
Roninjiro

Roninjiro

Need Bigger Tires
Location
Austin,TX
thats what I was thinking but I wasn't sure, as all I can do is judge by pics and comparing to what I have. But after seeing the pic of owner from above, I think there should not be a problem and I hope the owner responds to my PM.
 
ChiXterra

ChiXterra

Wheeling
Location
Northern Illinois
When I was surfing the internet for pictures of SAS X's, I did come across an X that had the Calmini kit, and it definitely did not have 6" of lift.

This is the one I was talking about. When he posted the picture, he still had to install new leaf packs in the rear...

9CkB2y2.jpg
 
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02Xterra

02Xterra

Wheeling
Location
Central VA
Hey that's my buddy Dan's X!

I bought the tube doors from him a few summers ago.. unfortunately a drunk driver pulled out in front of him last year and he swerved to miss.. but the X rolled and was totalled :(
 
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midget

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
what cheer,Iowa
I went as low as I could to clear 37"s that was the only limit the xs frame actually makes it easy to do a low sas. If I wanted to I could do spua on both ends with leaves and still have room and it would be like maybe 2-3" lift tops and Im iffy on that even. I know you want to keep it low but going spoa and leaves up front I have about a 6" lift on the same tires soo thats barely more than the guys that run a 3" suspension and 2-3" body lift and if hadnt trimmed several inches out of the body I would only be able to fit 35"s.
 
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Roadwarrior

Roadwarrior

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
Location
Probably in class..
02Xterra said:
Hey that's my buddy Dan's X!

I bought the tube doors from him a few summers ago.. unfortunately a drunk driver pulled out in front of him last year and he swerved to miss.. but the X rolled and was totalled :(
Click to expand...

I am pretty sure I bought his light bar.. Or an old one that he had made..

Sent from somewhere by something
 
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maslin

Test Drive
Location
United States
Thought I could chime in here and share... Here's some more recent pics of my SASd 2002 Supercharged Xterra. I've owned it since 2006, and it's been a fun 6 years. Currently on engine number 3, looking for engine number 4. The engine that is in it was built for $100 and has lasted 3 years and many many miles, not to mention a 2500 mile move with a trailer behind it in the middle of August!

Feel free to ask any questions, I had to figure most of this stuff out on my own. On to the pics!

photogu.jpg

photo3rm.jpg

photo1lrz.jpg

photo5kq.jpg
 
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midget

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
what cheer,Iowa
The real question is why the hell are you going through that many motors... My truck is still on the original and if it ever gives me problems ill swap in something with horsepower & a few more cylinders.
That d44 is narrow as hell, Eb with jeep /chevy outters?
 
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maslin

Test Drive
Location
United States
midget said:
The real question is why the hell are you going through that many motors... My truck is still on the original and if it ever gives me problems ill swap in something with horsepower & a few more cylinders.
That d44 is narrow as hell, Eb with jeep /chevy outters?
Click to expand...

Motor number one sucked in water and bent a few rods, number 2 was built properly with new rods/pistons/everything. Brand new Nissan piston dropped a skirt and ruined the block. Bought a seized motor for $50, kept the pistons and rods, swapped my old crank and heads on and drove the crap out of it. It has a vibration at 2200 rpms, so it blows through front crank seals. It's on crank seal number 4 now, and it's leaking again, so I'm looking for another motor to swap in. I can swap a 3.3 in a day, I can't make a GM 5.3, tranny and transfer case fit in a weekend. The supercharged 3.3 makes plenty of power and I like the 5 speed tranny.

The axle is full width, out of a 79 f150. Swapping to Chevy hubs/rotors narrowed it like 2", but it's still wider than the h233b with 1.5" spacers out back. It's not narrow at all. Ford housing, inner and outer C's, spindles, calipers and lock outs. Chevy rotors and hubs.
 
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J Everett

J Everett

Suspension Lift
Founding Member
Location
Houma, LA
Ah. Well then, NVM. Roninjiro, the OP in this thread, performed a Nissan TD27 diesel engine swap on his X and has another identical motor for sale. Thought you might be tired of replacing VG33's and want something that would last. Just a thought.
 
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maslin

Test Drive
Location
United States
I would love to, but I work on cars all day and coming home to work on my own gets old. And I doubt the wife would let me hide in the shop for another month :D
 
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maslin

Test Drive
Location
United States
Full truck width ford axle, swapping chevy hubs and rotors for the 6 lugs narrowed it like 2".

Difference in chevy and ford hubs:

img2011090700056.jpg



Spring buckets were drawn by me and cut on a plasma table.

1000296i.jpg
 
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maslin

Test Drive
Location
United States
I do have the original nissan rear axle, the bolt pattern is 6x5.5. Older chevy trucks are also 6x5.5.

Even with the narrower hubs I have to run spacers in the rear, 1.5" on each side. They've been on there for 4 or 5 years and I've never had a problem. The front is still a half inch or so wider than the rear, without the spacers it would be 3.5" wider. I tried it, it looked stupid. So the spacers went back on.
 
Roninjiro

Roninjiro

Need Bigger Tires
Location
Austin,TX
Welcome to the forum Maslin and thank you for posting here after the PM. I really like the SAS setup you have done and looks perfect after seeing the updated pics. I look forward to a build thread if you ever get the time and don't mind. :D
 
Cyclemut

Cyclemut

Wheeling
Founding Member
Location
Morrison, CO
On my SAS, I did the Ford front and rear. On the front, I used Chevy knuckles so I could mill and tap the passenger's side for a high steer arm and used cross-over steering. Then I had to reconvert back to Ford for the hubs to match the 9" I put in the rear. That was fun!
 
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maslin

Test Drive
Location
United States
Cyclemut said:
On my SAS, I did the Ford front and rear. On the front, I used Chevy knuckles so I could mill and tap the passenger's side for a high steer arm and used cross-over steering. Then I had to reconvert back to Ford for the hubs to match the 9" I put in the rear. That was fun!
Click to expand...

I have the 9 inch to match my 44, but decided it wasn't worth more down time and more $$$

midget said:
You couldve used 3/4ton ford knuckles.....Im not positivethe rotors interchange but im pretty sure they do.
Click to expand...

I believe all the 3/4 and 1 ton hubs are 8 lug. Not sure if the knuckles will swap. There might be some oddball years out there, but I haven't seen any that are 6x5.5

I do know there's a difference between ford and chevy big bearing spindles, the chevy has a small base with 6 bolts, ford is a big base with 5 bolts.
 
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M

midget

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
what cheer,Iowa
Everything from the cs out swap on d44s/10bolts i couldnt remeber if the 5 lug rotor would slide on the 8 lug spindle. I used the 3/4 ton axle because it was like 3-4 inches wider than the halfton version.
 
Roninjiro

Roninjiro

Need Bigger Tires
Location
Austin,TX
Ok after adding up a list of parts that need to be replaced on the IFS, I am really considering the SAS swap like Maslin. The question is, did most of the F150's have disk brakes? I keep finding drum versions.
 
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midget

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
what cheer,Iowa
I think it was pre 77 had drums but im not 100% my 78 had discs. Make sure you avoid the clised knuckle version like cancer.
Are you looking to swap the rear too? If not you could find a drum brake axle with open knuckles and swap chevy knuckles/spindles/the hole ball of wax onto the ford axle to get you disc brakes and the same bolt pattern as the h223b.

Edit: now that I think about it im pretty sure its pre 75 had drums but still not 100%
 
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