What have you done for your X?

xyoverland

[fully disclosed]
Supporting Member
Location
Virginia
IMG_8781.jpeg
3.54 geared M226/R180 combo acquired! $400 for everything. In great shape except dust shields on the rear rusted off. At $125/each they might just stay off…

Now is decision time on whether to just install as-is or try and wait out a deal for an ARB locker.
 
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ElGuevara

First Fill-Up (of many)
Supporting Member
Location
Chiriaco Summit
View attachment 32775
3.54 geared M226/R180 combo acquired! $400 for everything. In great shape except dust shields on the rear rusted off. At $125/each they might just stay off…

Now is decision time on whether to just install as-is or try and wait out a deal for an ARB locker.
I had the idea you were locked already. I guess I was wrong.
I have been hunting for an m226 and so far, only found them in the $1500+ range.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
View attachment 32775
3.54 geared M226/R180 combo acquired! $400 for everything. In great shape except dust shields on the rear rusted off. At $125/each they might just stay off…

Now is decision time on whether to just install as-is or try and wait out a deal for an ARB locker.
s239QJIh56sRW.webp
 

xyoverland

[fully disclosed]
Supporting Member
Location
Virginia
Not sure which part this is about, but I’ll try to cover it all:
- Got the diffs for the better gearing, and hoping it helps with my weight and heavier tires.
- Dust shields: the outer parts are toast, but the “inner” parts are still there that cover the area between the axle and brake rotor. If I pull the axles to change the dust shields, I have to replace the seals/bearings on that side at around $120 per side (on top of $125 per side for the shields). If the shields are there to protect the bearings/seals, and they might still be protected anyway, why not see if that works. If it doesn’t work, worst case (as far as I can find) is I have to replace the bearings and seals sooner, and when I do that I’ll do the shields then.
- ARB locker same deal. Even with the rebate it’s $800 for the locker, and $550 for an axle rebuild kit, and then whatever parts I may or may not need, and the possibility that even with @TerryD helping me out I may mess something up, it may not be worth it. I’ve been in two spots where a locker would have made things easier and safer, but I still go back to the fact that for the type of stuff I do, I’ve never “needed” a locker.

So as of now I’m leaning toward just getting $12 hard brake line replacements, a diff cover or guard, and installing as-is.

I had the idea you were locked already. I guess I was wrong.
I have been hunting for an m226 and so far, only found them in the $1500+ range.

I always found about the same price. Which if you think about is cheaper than what I just bought and adding a locker or LSD of any type to it. So I’d think $1500 already locked and ready to install is not bad.
 

xyoverland

[fully disclosed]
Supporting Member
Location
Virginia
OK cool. I, like @ElGuevara ,thought you had axles done already.
Ah yeah, I’m coming up from 3.13. And a few hours ago somebody in NJ just posted 3.69 M226 with locker, 3.69 R180, and all the suspension bits for $1100 total. If he’d posted that last week I’d probably have that instead. It would legitimately be cheaper to drive up there tomorrow and get it instead of adding a locker to the one I just got. Figures.
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
Ah yeah, I’m coming up from 3.13. And a few hours ago somebody in NJ just posted 3.69 M226 with locker, 3.69 R180, and all the suspension bits for $1100 total. If he’d posted that last week I’d probably have that instead. It would legitimately be cheaper to drive up there tomorrow and get it instead of adding a locker to the one I just got. Figures.
But you'd have less gearing and an axle that's a ticking time bomb. The ARB and standard M226 shafts is a stronger setup.

You don't have to replace the seals when you pull the shafts. It's recommended but I've had mine apart several times with no issues.

The dust shield I'm iffy on. I don't run them on the front.
 

IM1RU

Skid Plates
Supporting Member
Location
SLC, UT
I ain't cheaper but....
Sit on them both..... save some coin, regear both down to 4.10, and add an E locker, unless you already have the ARB compressor.... Especially if you can do the regear yourself.
 
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CHUG

Lockers Installed
Supporting Member
WELL SCAT!!!.
My 2007 Airbag Clock spring is Discontinued!! Was told cheaper for me to Locate then The Shop.. ugh. Reason for the Airbag Light blinking. and NO WORK!. will not go POOF in my face.

Only thing Found on net. ClockspringExperts.com They might have one??

ugh.. now the hunt for a 07 Clock spring. for the dang airbag.
 

SledheadX

Wheeling
Supporting Member
Location
Rochester, NY
WELL SCAT!!!.
My 2007 Airbag Clock spring is Discontinued!! Was told cheaper for me to Locate then The Shop.. ugh. Reason for the Airbag Light blinking. and NO WORK!. will not go POOF in my face.

Only thing Found on net. ClockspringExperts.com They might have one??

ugh.. now the hunt for a 07 Clock spring. for the dang airbag.
BAH!! Who needs the dang airbag? All you're gonna hit on the trails are the deer (or trees). And none of you are going faster than 15mph anyway (hopefully not the trees).
 

TwistedGrin

Test Drive
Location
76182
2010X 121k Mile retro-fitted radio, custom stock position aftermarket speakers, trailer hitch and wiring loom, rearview mirror back up camera, fog lights with replacement indicator lever, new shocks and struts, running boards..........and install a 40inch Curved Double Row LED Rooftop Lightbar.

Cam shaft position sensors failed (replaced)....may have a transmission solenoid sticking (free revving motor no go tranny) let off the gas.....re-apply throttle and roll on. This is not Water-Tranny Fluid Radiator mix issue......very intermittent issue

TwistedGrin
Shooting for 10years to 200K or the Rapture
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
2010X 121k Mile retro-fitted radio, custom stock position aftermarket speakers, trailer hitch and wiring loom, rearview mirror back up camera, fog lights with replacement indicator lever, new shocks and struts, running boards..........and install a 40inch Curved Double Row LED Rooftop Lightbar.

Cam shaft position sensors failed (replaced)....may have a transmission solenoid sticking (free revving motor no go tranny) let off the gas.....re-apply throttle and roll on. This is not Water-Tranny Fluid Radiator mix issue......very intermittent issue

TwistedGrin
Shooting for 10years to 200K or the Rapture
When was your last transmission service? Could be debris buildup on the pressure control circuit. A poor mans flush could help with that issue.
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
10:4 I might try this.....can you splain what a "poor mans flush" is?

TwistedGrin
 

ElGuevara

First Fill-Up (of many)
Supporting Member
Location
Chiriaco Summit
BAH!! Who needs the dang airbag? All you're gonna hit on the trails are the deer (or trees). And none of you are going faster than 15mph anyway (hopefully not the trees).
There are two variants, one with a wide opening and the other one with a narrow one. My 07 has the narrow one, and I had to purchase a clock spring for a pathfinder. Been using it for over a year and no issues. Like $50 bucks,
 

IM1RU

Skid Plates
Supporting Member
Location
SLC, UT
10:4 I might try this.....can you splain what a "poor mans flush" is?

TwistedGrin


This.... EXCEPT. There is no reason at all to drain the pan. Just hook up two hoses to those two hoses, and put them in a 5 gall bottle. Do the start run a gear or two, stop after 10-15 seconds. measure, add same amount, and repeat. Make sure to run through all the gears.... continue this until the shiat that comes out is the same color as the shiat that goes in. Same amount in = same amount out. Drive to get warm, then adjust level as needed. Simple, complete fluid change.
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
This.... EXCEPT. There is no reason at all to drain the pan. Just hook up two hoses to those two hoses, and put them in a 5 gall bottle. Do the start run a gear or two, stop after 10-15 seconds. measure, add same amount, and repeat. Make sure to run through all the gears.... continue this until the shiat that comes out is the same color as the shiat that goes in. Same amount in = same amount out. Drive to get warm, then adjust level as needed. Simple, complete fluid change.
You do need to drain the pan hot to get the friction material debris laying in the bottom of the pan to drain. The pump will not (and should not) remove all the buildup because of the inlet screen. That's the purpose of draining the transmission pan.
 

SledheadX

Wheeling
Supporting Member
Location
Rochester, NY
There are two variants, one with a wide opening and the other one with a narrow one. My 07 has the narrow one, and I had to purchase a clock spring for a pathfinder. Been using it for over a year and no issues. Like $50 bucks,
Yeah, but yours is different. You also have to worry about those high-speed zombie impacts!
 

CHUG

Lockers Installed
Supporting Member
There are two variants, one with a wide opening and the other one with a narrow one. My 07 has the narrow one, and I had to purchase a clock spring for a pathfinder. Been using it for over a year and no issues. Like $50 bucks,
Oreilys, has the Clock spring. Least said on the website.. $170 I think it was.. Just not sure if X takes a Narrow or mid size?.

Just have to go to store.. give my spec's and hope they have one..
Nissan does not carry it..
 

ElGuevara

First Fill-Up (of many)
Supporting Member
Location
Chiriaco Summit
Oreilys, has the Clock spring. Least said on the website.. $170 I think it was.. Just not sure if X takes a Narrow or mid size?.

Just have to go to store.. give my spec's and hope they have one..
Nissan does not carry it..
Check this.
Picture of both types of clockspring. My X (07) needed the narrow one.
 
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