Truck Starts Then Dies

TheFauxFox

TheFauxFox

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Huntsville, AL
This morning I was leaving for work and got an unpleasent surprise from my X. I turned the ignition and it started up normally, but after 3-10 seconds, the engine would start to gurgle a little and then slowly die. I drove it last night with no problems. No throttle was applied after starting. Additionally, I didn't see a CEL come on. I didn't have much time to check for much else at the time as I had to go to work.

I'm stumped as to why I can't get going. I tried a few seraches, but got a flurry of different answers that both do and do not make sense. Anyone willing to shed some light here?
 
Xterra Performance

Xterra Performance

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MOORPARK
That one your gonna have to put in a little diag! Cover your first couple bases. Check for faults #1, #2 look to see if you have a lean mixture. Spark, Air/air meter, fuel . Possible fuel pump, air mass meter.
 
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drbandkgb

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How many miles? Mine died at 200k
And I see them dead around 150 to 200k


Could be a fuel pump.. When you turn the key over can you hear the fuel pump? It's a light little hum and if I remember right it is right when the key is switched and then it stops..

I'm still on the dizzy being dead though.. ;)
 
TheFauxFox

TheFauxFox

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Huntsville, AL
Here's a little update:

I went home over lunch (got a rare 1.5 hour lunch today) and brought a buddy. Still didn't have much time but I started it up again and attempted to supply throttle. It would try, but I couldn't get the engine to keep running. From what I know, it sounds more and more like the fuel filter/pump. I didn't listen for any sounds while I was there.

I don't know much about the dizzy other than where it is.
 
luv2mud

luv2mud

Need Bigger Tires
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Marietta, Ohio
Just a suggestion but mine wouldn't stay idling a few days ago and I had a big hole on the underside of the air intake tube /boot. Fixed it and it runs just fine now.

Sent from The Big Muskie
 
Roninjiro

Roninjiro

Need Bigger Tires
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Austin,TX
luv2mud said:
Just a suggestion but mine wouldn't stay idling a few days ago and I had a big hole on the underside of the air intake tube /boot. Fixed it and it runs just fine now.

Sent from The Big Muskie
Click to expand...

Makes sense since the MAF sensor could accurately see all incoming air.

As far as what to do fuel wise... if you have no way to read fuel pressure, start with replacing that old fuel filter on the front of your tank. If that doesn't work replace the fuel pump. Much cheaper to just gauge your fuel pressure though. You would be looking for around 34psi at what is supposed to be idle, and the gauge needs to be connected right after the fuel filter.

There is still the high possibility that your dizzy is dead though.
 
TheFauxFox

TheFauxFox

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Huntsville, AL
I just came back from work and Auto Zone. I replaced the fuel filter AND....

It still doesn't work. I applied a serious amount of throttle and it kicked off again. The distributor is probably going to be next after work tomorrow.
 
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drbandkgb

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Of you buy it at autozone 250... I've seen them on eBay for less.. But.. You have to make sure it's the right part.. I think there is a letter code or build code on the one you have.. It should be a white sticker on the distributor
 
NMTerras

NMTerras

Suspension Lift
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New Mexico
This happened to me when I sheared my motor mount and my intake filter separated from the throttle body. Check for air leaks which can be read by Maf sensor...
 
TheFauxFox

TheFauxFox

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Huntsville, AL
drbandkgb said:
You can have it installed for 250?
Click to expand...

I"m talking about after I get the timing light, distributor and possibly new wires. I'd still be short a little from getting it done professionally. I've been taking this morning to learn about the distributor and the timing.

I do this when it comes this kind of stuff. Freak out over nothing... but that should have gone in another thread.
 
Silver dude

Silver dude

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machesney park IL
Defective fuel sending unit is also a possibility. The wiring at the top corrodes thus powering the fuel pump for a short while till the wiring heats up then the circuit breaks cutting power to the fuel pump. Its a matter of popping the rear seat up removing the access panel and inspecting the sending unit with a inspection mirror. The green corrosion occurs generally on the underside of the plastic connector where it elbows into the top.

I'd remove the distributor cap and inspect your distributor bearings for play or looseness. Just to solidify the idea that it is in fact bad. Though there again its not always the bearings.

Ben
 
TheFauxFox

TheFauxFox

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Huntsville, AL
I'll check that here in a minute SD.

Thanks for the input thus far everybody. You're insight has been extremely helpful, but I'm not out of the woods yet.

I've got 200k+ on the clock so any one of these is a very viable problem.
 
Silver dude

Silver dude

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machesney park IL
This is what my bad one looked like...
DSC09931.jpg


Hope it helps.
 
Silver dude

Silver dude

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machesney park IL
Yes, there is a recall. The new redesigned ones are supposed to be better. But, others have had the problem again and again with the supposed new units.

Ben
 
NismoFire

NismoFire

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Call the Service Dept at a dealer and give them your VIN...they can pull up the recall/warranty work done, even by previous owners.
 
TheFauxFox

TheFauxFox

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Huntsville, AL
Will do.

Crazy news. I'm feel ridiculously dumb. I was going back though my checks again and went to the distributor. Turns out, I had shaken two spark plugs loose. I simply popped them back in and it runs fine. It explained the start-up misfiring. I just can't believe I drove home like that.
 
Silver dude

Silver dude

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machesney park IL
Figure its air, fuel, or ignition.

The air should be covered unless your mass air flow sensor unpluged or air is somehow flowing around it without being metered. However, seems unlikely for you to park then come back and it not run.

Fuel, as I said could be the sending unit or perhaps the fuel pump. Not delivering. The fuel pumps seem to last a real long time. I haven't read about many people replacing them. Though with 200,000 miles it might not be a bad idea. If you run around on empty most the time there may not be enough fuel in the tank to cool the compressor while it pumps thus accerating the wear.

Ignition, the distributors are very common fail points. The optical wheel within the distributor is really sensitive. Often the bearings go bad and cause vibration on the shaft. The vibration on the shaft causes the optical wheel to read incorrectly or become damaged. Thus, the distributor send the wrong signals. Sometimes the timing belt breaks therby causing the distributor to not turn at all and not deliver ignition. Or skip a tooth on the belt and it could have improper ignition timing.
 
TheFauxFox

TheFauxFox

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Huntsville, AL
Thats good info to know.

I'm still going to look into the fuel pump/connection since I can't find an accurate record of that.

Good news is, though, my truck runs like it did before, and I have no problems. Thanks again everybody for the help, despite the problem being the driver. :angel:
 
TheFauxFox

TheFauxFox

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Huntsville, AL
Cyclemut

Cyclemut

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Morrison, CO
Just had to repair my fuel sending unit this morning, left me stranded in downtown Denver after picking my wife up from work.
 
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