Rough idle, little power... Running out of possible DIY causes/repairs

mdphotos

Bought an X
Location
Mason, OH
Driving the other day to pick up gobble-knows-what when the X started loosing power and shifting very roughly. At red lights (idle) the rpm's would drop to almost nothing, it would sputter and flutter then go back to normal for a few seconds, repeat... It doesn't have enough power to get above 40mph, and has brief periods of shake free operation lasting no more than a few seconds. There is a slight squeaking noise that can be heard coming from the belts or the engine itself... No other strange noises, it just sounds like its choking out. (maybe a wrong fuel/air ratio?)

So far I have: replaced the distributor rotor (no effect), replaced the distributor cap (no effect), put in new distributor lines (no effect, but they look pretty), installed new spark plugs (you guessed it, no effect), tested and cleaned the MAF, it has a clean air filter, snorkel isn't clogged, tested the throttle position sensor, tested the air change temperature sensor, SeaFoam'ed the gas and directly into the vacuum lines (again, no effect), attempted to replace fuel filter (don't think that's the problem), disconnected all of the exhaust O2 sensors and it didn't change a thing...

Some background on my X: it had the timing belt and water pump replaced at somewhere around 110,000 (currently at 160,000). Knock sensor was replaced last year. A few months ago I got a "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" light. It was not blinking so I figured it to be an exhaust insure. Had the codes read and found out one of the exhaust O2 sensors was bad, so I replaced it, and the light went away. But a few days later the light came back on, so I disconnected the battery and the light went away. About a week later it came back in, and was complaining about two of the other O2 sensors, and the one I just put in "O2 SENSOR LOW VOLTAGE". And this past spring my X was subject to an assault from some malicious devil-squirrels who built a nest in the engine bay, ate through the main wire harness, and the engine wire harness, as well as all but two distributor lines, oh, and they did this in one night. Needless to say I had it towed to Nissan where they replaced the engine wire harness and the distributor lines, and since they couldn't get their worthless, good for nothing hands on a new main wire harness, they re-wired the existing harness.

So in short - my engine is dropping rpm's something fierce at idle, and I have no idea why. (it has already been suggested that I check the fuel pressure regulator but to get at it, apparently one must remove the intake manifold... That didn't go over so well last time)
 

Silver dude

Sliders
Founding Member
Fuel, air or ignition. Look for vacuum leaks perhaps dry rotted hoses. Perhaps a clogged fuel filter. Make sure the intake hose to the mass air flow sensor is tight with no cracks.

Ben
 

J Everett

Suspension Lift
Founding Member
Location
Houma, LA
You replaced the rotor and the cap, but did you make sure the rest of the distributor was still in good shape? I've heard too many stories of them crapping out, either bad bearings, stripped gear teeth, etc, and all the dizzy problems had similar symptoms to what you're reporting.

Could also be that the timing belt jumped a couple of teeth.
 
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TKDx00

Lockers Installed
Founding Member
I've hesitated answering but oh well here goes. I had the same problem but fixed it inna shotgun manor. I changed the whole dizzy, replaced the fuel sender unit and cleaned out the fuel lines, replaced the timing belt / water pump, and plug wires. So, one/some/all of the changes fixed the problem.
 

Kris&HerX

Bumpers Installed
Founding Member
Location
Boise, ID
I asked someone a simular question about my distributor earlier today, and was told to check the bearings too. I don't know where they run for price, but it obviously won't cost as much as the whole distributor. IF you have the money to throw at a new dist. then I'd say "Go for it!"
 

AZhiAZiAM

Suspension Lift
Location
Fresno,CA
I asked someone a simular question about my distributor earlier today, and was told to check the bearings too. I don't know where they run for price, but it obviously won't cost as much as the whole distributor. IF you have the money to throw at a new dist. then I'd say "Go for it!"

i got a brand new distributor for 150 from autozone. lifetime warranty.. just switch it out and it fixed my problem like this. are you having troubles on start up too by chance? mine would feel like it was choking itself out. then rev high and calm down a little when i put it into drive.
 

mdphotos

Bought an X
Location
Mason, OH
Hummm... Well I just put in a new fuel filter, to no avail.
It has no trouble starting up, and when I hold the throttle down and keep it above 2200rpm it seems to run fine.
I attempted a idle air relearn but could not complete it because right after disconnecting the sensor the engine stalled.
 

luv2mud

Need Bigger Tires
Location
Marietta, Ohio
I had the same problem. Mine would idle rough and would barely stay running. I had a hole on the bottom side of my air intake boot. It was sortof hard to see. I duct taped it and my truck ran perfect. ( was at work. That was a quick fix)

Sent from my Huawei-U8652 using Tapatalk 2
 

Nesty

Test Drive
Founding Member
Location
Travel too much
Some of our VG33 engines have a tendency to have fuel injector problems. I have fixed a couple with fuel injector issues that acted the same way. The cars never gave a code and it ended up having a fuel injector or a couple fuel injectors giving up. You might want to check that. Its actually a common issue on Nissan quest.
 

profiler

Test Drive
Location
United States
If you need I have got a used distributor from a 00 xterra, i think i've got some injectors too not positive though...
x2 on possible distributor, maybe, also use some carb cleaner and spray around vac. lines and intake manifold/throttle body seals and see if rpms increase.
Got access to a live data code reader? if so it could help...
 
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