Not trying to be a wise ass or nothing but that LCA is a major PITA with all kinds of things that can kick you.
If you’re able to remove the front bolt (080444001A) and rear spindle (54419VK80A) from the bushings it would be like hitting the lotto.
Those things are most likely rust-welded on a 16 year old truck.
If you have to cut them the rear is like $25 (two = $50).
Those bushings do have metal sleeves that are most likely rust-welded in place. If you cut the bolt you need to burn the rubber out of the bushing and then carefully cut and peel out the sleeve. I used a sawzall, screwdriver, hammer and needle nose vice grips. The bushing in the frame is loads of fun. Don’t cut or nick the frame yo!
The $25 rear “bolt” (54419VK80A) is a splined and needs to be lined up to fit inside the torsion bar anchor.
I do not recommend heating the torsion bars, anchors or adjusters to get them apart. It weakens the metal and every one that I’ve seen fail has been heated at one point or installed incorrectly.
Our trucks are old and if you’re anything like me you’ve abused it. You might want to check the LCA for fatigue…cracks around the shock tabs, Lower Ball joint condition, etc.
If you need to change your LCA out for a new OEM one make sure it is a genuine Nissan part. Not the cheaper Chinese one.
I’ve seen the bolts on the WARN hubs fail many times. I’m not sure if they are the problem or if folks just don’t torque them down properly. I’ve seen them replaced with grade 8 bolts that started backing out and “egging out” the wheel hub. Wheel hubs needed to be replaced and the guy put on a set of old Hardbody hubs.
I think if you use thread lock and torque the bolts that came with your WARN hubs it should be okay…just my opinion.
Good luck!