List of New Bolts?

Rhaas Sep 4, 2017

  1. Rhaas

    Rhaas Need Bigger Tires Supporting Member

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    Hello there. So next week me and my friends are getting together to install my 3inch lift. I got new bilstein 5100 shocks, torsion bars, Calmini UCA, Moog ball joints, AAL, shackles, Warn manual Hubs, etc. Now, I remember reading somewhere on here that when doing a suspension lift, it is better to get new bolts for something from the dealership to replace the old rusty ones on the control arms or something like that. Can someone help me by giving a list of new bolts to get. And any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!!
     
  2. Prime

    Prime Some Kind of In Charge? Admin

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    Upper control arm bolts. They are non-centric bolts that set your alignment. And its very likely that they won't come out and will have to be cut to get the old uppers off. So you'll want to have new bolts/washers on hand to install your new uppers.
     
  3. Bklyn.X

    Bklyn.X Need Bigger Tires Supporting Member Founding Member

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  4. Rhaas

    Rhaas Need Bigger Tires Supporting Member

    Messages:
    670
    Location:
    Silver Lake, Ohio
    Thank you guys for your inputs. What about lower control arm bolts?
     
  5. Bklyn.X

    Bklyn.X Need Bigger Tires Supporting Member Founding Member

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    Are you planning to mess with the LCA? Have they or the ball joints ever been changed? How many miles on your truck?
     
    Last edited: Sep 5, 2017
  6. Rhaas

    Rhaas Need Bigger Tires Supporting Member

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    670
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    No. The truck has 130000 miles. Im gonna take it out. Remove rust, fresh paint, moog ball joints. And new polyurethane bushings. And install new torsion bars.
     
  7. Prime

    Prime Some Kind of In Charge? Admin

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    Unless you need to remove the lower bolts, don't mess with them. If you're actually going to pull the lowers, then you need new bolts there also, because those will need to be cut too. Of course, at that point, you'll probably just get new lowers all together since the cut bolts will be seized in the old arm. However, all the work you're doing can be done with the lowers in place. The ball joints are a bitch, but it's still doable.
     
  8. Rhaas

    Rhaas Need Bigger Tires Supporting Member

    Messages:
    670
    Location:
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    I looked online at the courtesy parts for the lower control arm bolts. But could not find them. Can you direct me to them. Thank you!
     
  9. Prime

    Prime Some Kind of In Charge? Admin

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    Best I can find is chart reference numbers. But you know how Nissan works. those aren't the actual part numbers if you talk to the dealer.

    Reward Bolt: 54419-VK80A Qty: 2
    Forward Bolt: 08044-4001A Qty: 2
    Washers: 08915-5441A Qty: 4
    Nut: 08912-9441A Qty: 4
     
  10. Prime

    Prime Some Kind of In Charge? Admin

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    Also, since you're doing all that, I'd see if you can get new torsion bar anchors and adjuster/bolt/nut sets. Just so you can have them on standby. If your current ones don't come off clean.
     
  11. Rhaas

    Rhaas Need Bigger Tires Supporting Member

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    Location:
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    well how hard is it to remove them? ive been blasting them with PB blaster. What if we heat them up to loosen them up?
     
  12. Rhaas

    Rhaas Need Bigger Tires Supporting Member

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    670
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    It sucks to spend 80 bucks on each anchor and 60 bucks on each torque arm.
     
  13. Rhaas

    Rhaas Need Bigger Tires Supporting Member

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    670
    Location:
    Silver Lake, Ohio
    I understand what you are saying prime about the lower control arm bolts being seized. But I got to replace the bushing with polyurethane ones. So I should be able to still use the current lower control arms and just get the bushing out. Could I heat them up to melt the rubber So it will come out easier? Do the old bushings have an outer steel sleeve? The new bushings are 2 piece polyurethane from 4x4 parts.
     
    Last edited: Sep 5, 2017
  14. Prime

    Prime Some Kind of In Charge? Admin

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    Yeah. If you're replacing the bushings you can reuse the arms.
     
  15. Rhaas

    Rhaas Need Bigger Tires Supporting Member

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    Ok. But do the old bushings have a metal outer sleeve?
     
  16. Prime

    Prime Some Kind of In Charge? Admin

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    I don't remember.
     
  17. Rhaas

    Rhaas Need Bigger Tires Supporting Member

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    Location:
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    Ok...hahaha.
     
  18. Rhaas

    Rhaas Need Bigger Tires Supporting Member

    Messages:
    670
    Location:
    Silver Lake, Ohio
    Where can I find this info?
     
  19. Rhaas

    Rhaas Need Bigger Tires Supporting Member

    Messages:
    670
    Location:
    Silver Lake, Ohio
    Oh, and I hear that the bolts that came with the warn manual hubs are crap. What replacement bolts should I use instead?
     
  20. Bklyn.X

    Bklyn.X Need Bigger Tires Supporting Member Founding Member

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    702
    Location:
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    Not trying to be a wise ass or nothing but that LCA is a major PITA with all kinds of things that can kick you.

    If you’re able to remove the front bolt (080444001A) and rear spindle (54419VK80A) from the bushings it would be like hitting the lotto.

    Those things are most likely rust-welded on a 16 year old truck.

    If you have to cut them the rear is like $25 (two = $50).

    Those bushings do have metal sleeves that are most likely rust-welded in place. If you cut the bolt you need to burn the rubber out of the bushing and then carefully cut and peel out the sleeve. I used a sawzall, screwdriver, hammer and needle nose vice grips. The bushing in the frame is loads of fun. Don’t cut or nick the frame yo!

    The $25 rear “bolt” (54419VK80A) is a splined and needs to be lined up to fit inside the torsion bar anchor.

    I do not recommend heating the torsion bars, anchors or adjusters to get them apart. It weakens the metal and every one that I’ve seen fail has been heated at one point or installed incorrectly.

    Our trucks are old and if you’re anything like me you’ve abused it. You might want to check the LCA for fatigue…cracks around the shock tabs, Lower Ball joint condition, etc.

    If you need to change your LCA out for a new OEM one make sure it is a genuine Nissan part. Not the cheaper Chinese one.

    [​IMG]

    I’ve seen the bolts on the WARN hubs fail many times. I’m not sure if they are the problem or if folks just don’t torque them down properly. I’ve seen them replaced with grade 8 bolts that started backing out and “egging out” the wheel hub. Wheel hubs needed to be replaced and the guy put on a set of old Hardbody hubs.

    I think if you use thread lock and torque the bolts that came with your WARN hubs it should be okay…just my opinion.

    Good luck!
     

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