HID question

Lucky_lefty

Bought an X
Founding Member
Location
IL
well, a few. is this a good site to buy from?
http://www.hidheadlightkit.com/?gclid=CM6olqbe36wCFY3JKgobbleBlTxmw

also what are all the colors for? I think the 6000k seem to be the brightest. are these legal? I am thinking about telling my wife I want these for christmas.
 

Xterraforce

<img src="http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u7/ra
Founding Member
Location
Signal Mtn., TN
The K in 6000K stands for Kelvin. This is called the color temperature rating. Daylight on a clear day at noon is generally around 6500K, so the closer you get to that number, the more like daylight the color reflections will be. Not to say it's bright as day, but will appear to be brighter because the colors you see will more closely resemble what you see on a sunny day. Lower Kelvin ratings will have more of an orange/yellow look while higher numbers will be blue/white.
 
R

ryandavenport

Guest
Lucky, you are correct on the 6000k being brightest. However, there are a few things that you need to know.

1. HIDs are illegal in a non-projector type housing
2. HIDs in a non-projector type housing can often hinder the vision of oncoming drivers

Since that kit does not come as a projector retro fit, I would stay away from it. The best way to do an HID conversion is to do a projector retro fit along with it. That gives the light the sharp cutoff line like luxury cars get from the factory. If you don't have the projectors, oncoming vehicles (including policemen) could possibly be blinded by the glare from HIDs.
 

2k11pro4x

Test Drive
Founding Member
I've been using HID for many years so I know a bit about it. The "brightest" is anything around 4300k - 4500k but will give you a yellowish color. If you want whiter color you must use higher color temp. above 5000k. The whitest color would be between 5000k - 6000k.
The higher you go the color will become bluish then purple-ish and get dimmer. Anything above 10k are usually use in show cars, not as performance. Anything below 4000k are normally use as fog lights as the yellowish color cut through fog better than white.
If you are buying higher voltage HID kit like 55w, 75w, or 100w (for off road use) you must go up higher in color to achieve the color you want. The higher wattage will "wash" out the color down a couple notch on the kelvin scale. For example to get the same color of 6000k on a 35w hid, for a 55w hid you would need to get 8000k...etc

colour-temperature.jpg



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JGBimle

Bought an X
Founding Member
Location
Altoona, PA
Research Iv always found says that 4300K is brightest and the higher you get the bluer and less bright you get. 5000K is pure white, 6000K will have a touch of blue and past that to me just seems too blue. Mine are 5000K and Im installing projectors when I put them in. Personally Id never even consider running HIDs in a stock housing without a projector.

Il be running 5000K HID headlights with yellow fog lights. Yellow cuts through fog the best.
 

TheFauxFox

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
Location
Huntsville, AL
Research Iv always found says that 4300K is brightest and the higher you get the bluer and less bright you get..

This is generally true. Once you get past 8000K, you're going for looks as the lights go purple.

Just make sure you do it right. Nobody likes being blinded.
 

TJTJ

Skid Plates
Founding Member
Location
NJ
It depends on what you mean by "Brightest". The 4300, 6k, 8k, don't have ANYTHING to do with "Brightness", its more like "Hue" than brightness really.

4000 k is closer to yellow - 8000 k is closer to blue, and so forth.

Its really just a way of describing the effect of heating something, and it radiating light in various hues as it hits certain temperatures....like metal might be red hot, then white hot, then blue, etc....as you heat it up in a forge, etc.


The human eye sees more sharply with yellow than blue for example, a reason shooter's glasses are yellow/amber most of the time, etc.

Yellow glares less for the human eye, blue glares more.

For example, if its raining, the blue light seems to vanish before you, very little reflects back to your eyes in a useful fashion...as the blue is dispersed by the water/vapor, etc.

This is why for example fog lights are also yellow/amber typically, as they will provide more USEFUL light, rain or shine.

So, on a clear night, you can perceive a higher color temperature (Degrees Kelvin) as being "Brighter", and, under good conditions, this will be true until the kelvins go up past "Clear" to "Blue". As they kelvins rise into that frequency, your eye has fewer receptors that can see the bluer light, and the USEFUL light is gradually diminished.

It also generally takes more POWER to emit higher frequencies, and less to produce longer wavelengths...so watt for watt, you get more "light" at the yellow/red end of the spectrum than at the blue/violet end.

When we use ultraviolet detection equipment at work, it takes a lot more watts to "illuminate" the target than if we are using infrared, etc.

This is also why most laser pointers used a RED dot, instead of other color, as we can SEE red better, and, it takes less POWER to send that red laser beam out than if it were blue, etc...

...so a red laser, watt for watt, is more "Powerful" than a blue one.



The human eye can only perceive a very narrow band of the spectrum, ranging from a wavelength of about 380 nanometers (Bordering on ultraviolet), up to a longer wavelength of ~ 740 nm or so, bordering on infrared.

We typically "See Best" at ~ 550 nm, which, is actually about as "Yellow" a light as you'd get.

Its because the 3 types of cone cells (Receptors) in your eye each respond better to different parts of the range of light wavelengths...with the overall best overlap being ~ 550 nm (Yellow).

So, yellow light is actually best from a performance standpoint....and any variation from yellow is a compromise made towards fashion.



My 55 watt HID's are about 6k, (White looking) for the record, and perspective.

:D

I installed them into the stock headlights, and they glare into other drivers, including the policeman's, eyes, so as to blind them.

This makes it difficult for the policeman to give chase, as he is unable to see well for a while after getting blasted, etc.

To reduce the numbers of angry blind policeman wanting to discuss my lighting situation with me on an urgent and insistent basis, I looked at WHY it was glaring, and saw that the HID capsules did not emit light from the same point WITHIN the headlight as the OEM Halogens did.

Essentially, the headlight is a reflector housing, with the reflectors designed to focus the beam of light in a useful PATTERN on the road, with a cut-off so as to NOT blind the local constabulary, etc.

When the HID capsule emits the light from a different point relative to the reflectors (In this case, further from the reflectors/closer to the headlight face), it changes the PATTERN that is then reflected back out of the headlight.

It flipped the pattern UPSIDE DOWN.

That meant my light pattern cut off was protecting the worms and root systems of nearby vegetation from glare, albeit was sending light meant for the road into the eyes/mirrors of those unfortunate enough to be in front of me, or even along side the front of the truck, etc.


I solved this problem by applying a strip of silver duct tape to the BOTTOM of each headlight face...which, as the beam pattern was UPSIDE DOWN, created a cut-off at the TOP of the beam pattern.

So, now, if I am behind or driving towards a trooper, etc, my low beams, despite emitting from my admittedly higher headlights (About the level of their heads to start with), do not inspire them to want to discuss my lighting system on an urgent basis.

I did get pulled over by a cop to the side of me, as "Your head lights reflecting off my side view mirror were melting my retinas" or something like that, seemed a topic that he wanted to discuss immediately with me.

So, in retrospect, if doing it over again, I'd replace the OEM headlights with projector lamps designed to work with HID capsules, as a unit (Matched), so that I could use more of the light to see with, and less of it to heat up the back of silver duct tape/tempers of blinded motorists.

:D
 
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2k11pro4x

Test Drive
Founding Member
^^ that's a little long to read about color so didn't read it all since I noticed all you're talking about is the color. No one argue here that Kelvin temp represent color and not brightness.
But the OP was asking what color is brightest and 4300k definitely is because it produce the MOST lumen than any others which = brighter.

Not sure why you have to make it so complicated with a simple question.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

TJTJ

Skid Plates
Founding Member
Location
NJ
^^ that's a little long to read about color so didn't read it all since I noticed all you're talking about is the color. No one argue here that Kelvin temp represent color and not brightness.
But the OP was asking what color is brightest and 4300k definitely is because it produce the MOST lumen than any others which = brighter.

Not sure why you have to make it so complicated with a simple question.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Because that's not necessarily true.

1) Lumens are one measure of "Brightness", but are not the only one, and not always the best one to describe it.

That's why I said it depends on what is meant by "Brightness", and, explained that in REALITY, 550 nm is the frequency ("Color") that provides the most useful light to the human eye.

To say a "color" produces more "Lumens" than another "color" is meaningless...the sort of thing one gets from a website selling lights, etc.

:D


That said, there was nothing wrong with YOUR explanation per se in your first response to this thread, I thought you presented the information well, and, if you consider the "Probable" frequency that I was talking about (550 nm) as providing the most useful light, and the "Probable" range in kelvin that you described as "Brighter", well, its pretty damn close to saying the same thing.

The only difference I was pointing out is to clarify that the "color" in kelvins, is not the same thing as "brightness", as one is related to the production of a number of photons, and one is related to their wavelengths.

IE: I just gave a context, so someone wouldn't think "One kelvin range was brighter than another" without a context to place that within.



For example, if you are USING headlights, its probably night, and you're really typically using rods more than cones anyway for viewing the fringes of your illumination.

Rods really don't SEE anything over ~ 640 nm for example, so light emitted in excess of that frequency range is invisible to the rods, but the cones have a shot if the luminosity is high enough to detect.

(Rods gather light better than cones, cones are more "night blind")


2) So, sure, the more yellow end of the range is better for vision, ESPECIALLY at night, or when water/water vapor is present to diffract light, etc....and the 4300 k lights are closer to producing that frequency than say the 6k k lights....

...and, the efficiency of the capsules producing the light is such that, they CAN produce more visible light per watt in that range.

(Which is what I THINK you'd be saying instead of using Lumens as the measure, but if you'd said candela (not candle power), I would have been OK with that in this context)



IE: We essentially agree, I'm just giving it all a context, as that's my job.

:D
 
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Diadaga

Suspension Lift
Founding Member
Location
Virginia
Good info guys answered alot of the questions I'm having on doing the swap myself. Leave it to TJ to melt my brain with his answers.:dies:
 
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