Help install Shocks?

ericcris10sen

First Fill-Up (of many)
Hey everyone, I bought new shocks not too long ago (Bilstein) so I'm still waiting for them to come in. I live in Southern Utah (around Hurricane, UT area) and I was wondering if someone could help me put them on. I've been looking at the DIY threads and for the most part, they seem like it shouldn't be TOO difficult to do it, but when I'm messing with things like suspension, electronics, etc, I'd rather have someone there with me who knows what they're doing and can guide me on how to put them on.

I'd greatly appreciate some help. So far I haven't been able to find someone to help me with certain mods lol
 

Pro-2X

Suspension Lift
Location
Rockmart, GA
I wish I lived closer. I would be glad to help. Hey, if you want to drive to GA I can help.
Sent from my Lumia 830 Windows Phone using Tapatalk.
 

granitex

Skid Plates
Founding Member
Location
Columbus OH
You are way over thinking this. shocks are about as easy to change as a tire. Hit both bolts with a shot of PB blaster the day before and you should not have any issues. Where you live rust is not a big deal like it is here in the midwest and east coast.

You are not really messing with the suspension. They only dampen movement, not support any weight so nothing is under load when you do them.

Pulling the tire gives you more room to work, but you don't even really need to do that. They can be changed sitting on the ground.
 

TJTJ

Skid Plates
Founding Member
Location
NJ
You are way over thinking this. shocks are about as easy to change as a tire. Hit both bolts with a shot of PB blaster the day before and you should not have any issues. Where you live rust is not a big deal like it is here in the midwest and east coast.

You are not really messing with the suspension. They only dampen movement, not support any weight so nothing is under load when you do them.

Pulling the tire gives you more room to work, but you don't even really need to do that. They can be changed sitting on the ground.


/\ /\ /\

This.

:D


A top and bottom nut for each, that's about it. Take off one, put the new on on the same way the old one was, rinse/repeat.

The front shock has a post instead of an eye on top. all the other ends have eyes.

:tunes:
 

DC xterra

Wheeling
Location
CT
dont take of the plastic strap of the rear shock easier to put it on as to trying to compress it after
 

ericcris10sen

First Fill-Up (of many)
I wish I lived closer. I would be glad to help. Hey, if you want to drive to GA I can help.
Sent from my Lumia 830 Windows Phone using Tapatalk.

Sure I'm heading over there right now :p


You are way over thinking this. shocks are about as easy to change as a tire. Hit both bolts with a shot of PB blaster the day before and you should not have any issues. Where you live rust is not a big deal like it is here in the midwest and east coast.

You are not really messing with the suspension. They only dampen movement, not support any weight so nothing is under load when you do them.

Pulling the tire gives you more room to work, but you don't even really need to do that. They can be changed sitting on the ground.

LOL I know I'm always over thinking mechanic work LOL

Lol I'm afraid something is going to break and I won't be able to drive it anywhere or something like that lol but yea, definitely over thinking it I'm sure. So I can literally change them on the ground? Like I don't have to lift it up at all? I'm going to look up how-to's again and I'm sure I'll get the courage to take it apart lol Yolo right? LOL

/\ /\ /\

This.

:D


A top and bottom nut for each, that's about it. Take off one, put the new on on the same way the old one was, rinse/repeat.

The front shock has a post instead of an eye on top. all the other ends have eyes.

:tunes:

Too difficult haha

dont take of the plastic strap of the rear shock easier to put it on as to trying to compress it after

Hmmm alllllrighty then :p

--------------------------------------------------------------------------

But yea still, anyone near me? I can't believe someone doesn't live in any of the surrounding cities or even like 20-30 miles from me. It's Utah!!!!! :D I'd still REALLY like someone to help out with this but if not, I'm probably going to give it a try after much youtubing and DIY threads.

Out of all the cars I've had, I've never modded anything, needed anything repaired, or needed to do anything close to this so this is why I'm just a little nervous is all lol
 

robcarync

Sliders
Location
Raleigh, NC
Pretty sure I replaced my front shocks without taking the tires off. It was tight, but it wasn't too bad. You can turn the tires/steering to one side or the other to get better access.
 

ericcris10sen

First Fill-Up (of many)
Okay an update!!! I changed one of my shocks and wtf haha it was extremely easy haha how the hell do they think it's worth $100+ of labor....but now I've encountered an issue....my other rear shocks washer is literally BENT into my nut...so I can't unscrew it... haha story of my life. So I'm thinking about taking it to someone who has a saw of some kind and having them saw through the bent portion of the washer so I can unscrew the nut. Either that or I'll look and see what ace hardware has and maybe I can get a hand saw myself or something.

but yea it was pretty damn easy! Also, my next door neighbor was telling me I may need a compressor to hold the spiral thingy down for the front shocks (lol I can't think of the name for it, total brain far right now).
 

TheFauxFox

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
Location
Huntsville, AL
Also, my next door neighbor was telling me I may need a compressor to hold the spiral thingy down for the front shocks (lol I can't think of the name for it, total brain far right now).

A spring compressor is what you're thinking of. You won't need one unless you are swapping over to coilovers... which I don't think you're doing. Thats a lot more work than whats going on here.

Lets do some learnin (you can skip unless you want some garage talk):
Gen 1s are equipped with shock absorbers and torsion bars up front and complimented (ha) with leaf-springs and shock absorbers in the rear. The way torsion bars work is much like a spring in round-bar form. Lets say you have no lift and no weight on your truck for simplicity. The torsion bars, at this instant, are subject to no torque, or twist; therefore straight (assuming they have no preload). This is easier to visualize if you imagine drawing a straight line down the center of your torsion bars, end-to-end. Once you put weight on the lower control arms, the T-bars will begin to twist. Due to the elastic, ductile nature of metal, the bar will begin to twist. As it twists, it begins resisting the motion of that torque until the force on the wheels is equal to the reaction moment (torque/twist) of the T-bars. This is similar to adding weight to an uncompressed spring. As you remove the load on the wheels/lca/t-bars, the t-bar will begin to un-twist, giving you the motion of drooping in the LCA since they are connected by splines.
This can be explained in more detail, but here's some porch talk next time you see your neighbor. I don't know if you knew this or not, but either way, its good for the board. Someone feel free to correct me on anything I may have misspoken on.
Makes it sound like you know a little sumthin-sumthin about vehicle suspensions. :D:
END ED-JUH-MUH-CAY-SHUN

Now, tackling the washer. I have a feeling I know what you're talking about, but could you take some pics for us visual folks? As Pro-2x said, hammer dat. If its almost formed to the nut, you could get away with a good pair of vice grips.
 
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TJTJ

Skid Plates
Founding Member
Location
NJ
Okay an update!!! I changed one of my shocks and wtf haha it was extremely easy haha how the hell do they think it's worth $100+ of labor....but now I've encountered an issue....my other rear shocks washer is literally BENT into my nut...so I can't unscrew it... haha story of my life. So I'm thinking about taking it to someone who has a saw of some kind and having them saw through the bent portion of the washer so I can unscrew the nut. Either that or I'll look and see what ace hardware has and maybe I can get a hand saw myself or something.

but yea it was pretty damn easy! Also, my next door neighbor was telling me I may need a compressor to hold the spiral thingy down for the front shocks (lol I can't think of the name for it, total brain far right now).


This will save some cranial flatulence:


Go over to your truck, and look at it.

LOOK at your suspension, drive train, etc.

If you look at it first, you will notice the things that keep popping out, and, it will help you immensely as far as context for all of this.


When looking at it, try to see how it would work.

Shackles swing in/out at the back of your leaf packs, the front of the packs are captured in your frame (no shackles), you have upper and lower control arms in front....the torsion bars run from the lower arms back to the cross member about under your front seats, and so forth....do one function at a time.

Look at it, and, try to visualize it all moving. It will take a few looks for sure, there are a lot of things, based upon your questions thus far, that you will be familiarizing yourself with....so this is not a one day project for most people.

Take pics, and, if you don't know what something is/how it works, etc...post the pic and questions...etc.

:D
 

robcarync

Sliders
Location
Raleigh, NC
The spiral thing is a coil spring...we have torsion bars, which actually are springs...but just a different type.

x10000 what TJTJ said...spend some looking under your truck and just trying to visualize how the systems work together. Understanding how it all works makes this stuff a lot less mysterious.

As far as how someone can charge 100 bucks in labor...it is because most people don't look under their cars to know what they are paying for. If you like to learn, you can save some serious money doing things yourself!

:D
 

TheFauxFox

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
Location
Huntsville, AL
20150310_093242_zpsygbynga8.jpg


Sorry I couldn't put an actual link in here, I'm new to using my phone for this. So I tried vice grips...nothing. tried a saw....nothing. so I'm out of ideas. Problem is there isn't a whole lot of room to grab onto something and I swear, that is one tough soab washer lol

Got you covered.

EDIT:
I'm assuming its not possible to just take a box wrench to it? If its just the washer thats bent, it should still turn. Is rust welded?
 
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robcarync

Sliders
Location
Raleigh, NC
^^^Great idea above ^^^

if you can get an open end wrench on it, you should be able to turn the nut from that one side that is open. and the washer can rotate with the nut until it is loose. Not sure which size it is...but an open end or box end wrench looks like the one below:

spin_prod_206349701
 

Intender

Wheeling
Location
Lewisville NC
Or go buy a dremel or an angle grinder and grind it flat or cut it. I think my first angle grinder cost about $18 from harbor freight with a coupon. It lasted about 3 years before the brushes wore out and could have still used it if I could have found replacements.
 

ericcris10sen

First Fill-Up (of many)
Well I couldn't get any leverage on the washer unfortunately. Even when I was able to chip into the washer a little, it wasn't even close enough to allow me to wedge something into it. After a considerable amount of time, I had enough and took it to a mechanic who used an air impact hammer and within 3 seconds, he had it how it should have been lol

http://i319.photobucket.com/albums/mm480/GermanHalo/Xterra Pictures/20150310_131020_zpszut1nbqo.jpg

http://i319.photobucket.com/albums/mm480/GermanHalo/Xterra Pictures/20150310_131047_zpskxi9whgu.jpg

So finally it's on lol I saved a considerable amount of money, just spent money on a couple tools. Now for the front two shocks lol

Again, sorry for not being able to put the actual picture here, it's definitely my phone :( thanks for fixing the last picture for me lol
 

granitex

Skid Plates
Founding Member
Location
Columbus OH
punch, grinder, dremel, any option will work, just dont break the stud. welding a new one on there will not be as much fun as you would think
 

slantyshanty

Bought an X
Location
'Merica (DFW)
It's a little late now but just to make sure I understand what happened and maybe someone in the future having the same problem...

So the nut and the washer were stuck together and that was somehow keeping you from getting the nut/washer combo off of the stud, so you could remove the shock?

Was the stud loose, spinning with the nut/washer, making that the reason you couldn't get it off?

Granted it was more than 10 years since I did my lift but I think my nut/washer were the same... But I think they were supposed to be that way? My X was a little over 2 years old at the time of my lift so I don't think they were rust welded.

I have new shocks sitting in a box that I will be putting on today or tomorrow. Hopefully I won't run into any issues like this. 10+ years of rust yippee!
 

ericcris10sen

First Fill-Up (of many)
Not really. The washer was bent on one side, I guess I must have hit it on something. And it was bent to where it was right up against the nut, so I couldn't turn the nut because the washer was keeping it in place.

Although I've driven through alaska, canada, Washington and whatever other states I've been through, I've luckily haven't 3 countered salt on the roads so my x has practically no rust under it at all lol. I've been to another x members house and my gobble, he bad rust everywhere and he hated it lol

Bug if you look at the picture, it's clear something hit it, and I'm sure it was that one time I scraped the living hell out of my undercarriage on this one trail. But idk. Maybe it has been like that.

All I know is that washer is extremely ****ing durable lol
 

MichiganMan

Test Drive
Location
Michigan
I'm about ready to do mine - the local shop quoted me over $500 to put Bilsteins in, and "only" $470 for Ranchos. Um, I think I'll do it myself...
 

TJTJ

Skid Plates
Founding Member
Location
NJ
I'm about ready to do mine - the local shop quoted me over $500 to put Bilsteins in, and "only" $470 for Ranchos. Um, I think I'll do it myself...

Get the Bils meant for the 3" lift kits. They fit a stock X with no lift at all, and, as you have some light off roading planned, they will give you the shock related wheel travel of an X with a 3" lift kit...without the lift kit...and no downside.

:D

http://www.4x4parts.com/i-18981367-xterra-5100-series-bilstein-rear-shock.html

http://www.4x4parts.com/i-18981356-xterra-5100-series-bilstein-front-shock.html



http://www.4x4parts.com/i-18981416-xterra-heavy-duty-bilstein-front-shock.html

http://www.4x4parts.com/i-18981417-xterra-heavy-duty-bilstein-rear-shock.html
 

ericcris10sen

First Fill-Up (of many)
@TJTJ aren't those bigger than the normal shocks then? If so, then it'll be a HUGE pain the butt to get them in. I had a tough time putting the front shocks in without a lift, and to put ones that would be bigger would be even worse.
 

TJTJ

Skid Plates
Founding Member
Location
NJ
@TJTJ aren't those bigger than the normal shocks then? If so, then it'll be a HUGE pain the butt to get them in. I had a tough time putting the front shocks in without a lift, and to put ones that would be bigger would be even worse.

They compress enough to fit.

If you are jacked up and on stands anyway, the space between the front upper/lower shock mounts ARE EXACTLY THE SAME WITH OR WITH OUT A LIFT....as its Frame to LOWER Control Arm.

:kewl:
 

01XterraPhilly

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
Conshohocken, PA
the rears are relatively easy...i found for the fronts to use a 1" x 4" board about 4' long and used it as a clamp. there is a spot on the frame somewhere in front of the tire and it makes it a lot easier to compress and move the shock onto the mount. the rears you can do the tops first and push up if strong enough or do the bottoms and pull down. the fronts were way more a pain in the bum bum to do first time out. When i did them on a buddies X they went a lot easier. If you can get a board from a pallet it makes it a heck of a lot easier install.
 

MichiganMan

Test Drive
Location
Michigan
3 out of 4 done - the right front is being a huge pain in the ass. I don't know who decided that you can break that top nut on the shocks loose by using vise grips on that teeny square at the top, but he and I are going to have words...

I tried to break that SOB loose for 45 minutes and all I ended up with was a piece of modern art that is in no way square. I suppose it could be whatever cheap shocks were on there (installed by PO) but I'm pretty sure I'm going to have to cut it off. Electric impact hammer from Harbor Freight ($50) made short work of the bolts I could reach. Had to loosen the swaybar mount on the passenger side to get the shock into place, but that was no big deal. Heading to HF to get a cutting wheel to keep my impact company and I'll use that on the right front shock. One way or another, it's coming out!
 

ericcris10sen

First Fill-Up (of many)
3 out of 4 done - the right front is being a huge pain in the ass. I don't know who decided that you can break that top nut on the shocks loose by using vise grips on that teeny square at the top, but he and I are going to have words...

I tried to break that SOB loose for 45 minutes and all I ended up with was a piece of modern art that is in no way square. I suppose it could be whatever cheap shocks were on there (installed by PO) but I'm pretty sure I'm going to have to cut it off. Electric impact hammer from Harbor Freight ($50) made short work of the bolts I could reach. Had to loosen the swaybar mount on the passenger side to get the shock into place, but that was no big deal. Heading to HF to get a cutting wheel to keep my impact company and I'll use that on the right front shock. One way or another, it's coming out!

LOL good luck dude haha gotta love almost finishing something and having ONE little thing standing in the way LOL
 

Malin_Rebate

Skid Plates
Location
Tennessee
Hey I let Dave take a sawzall to it because my nut was stripped. Quick and easy made the right front a 10 minute job


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

MichiganMan

Test Drive
Location
Michigan
Of course I didn't have any metal blades for my sawzall... Might wait until next weekend as it looks like rain and I've got a bunch of other chores to do. I can say it rides much nicer now!
 
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