Can It Really Be This Simple?

Brunnie Jan 30, 2020

  1. Brunnie

    Brunnie Bought an X Supporting Member

    Messages:
    163
    Location:
    Colorado Springs
    After reading a BUNCH of threads about "Titan Swapping" I think I've boiled it all down to some solutions.

    M205 from:
    04-14 Armada
    04-10 Titan
    06-12 Pathfinder

    To keep the width the same as currently an Xterra is, use NI-8354 Pathfinder CV axles.
    https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7130084&jsn=2998

    Is this really all I would need? Naturally I know I have to match gear ratios with the rear but if the front is that simple then finding a Pro 4 rear shouldn't be all that hard either.
     
  2. TerryD

    TerryD Total Tease Supporting Member

    Messages:
    1,681
    Location:
    Covington, Va
    That's not Titan swapping. That's just a OE width M205 swap.

    Titan swapping takes Titan control arms, either Titan shafts for the M205 or Infinity shafts for the R180, extended brake hoses and custom coil overs.
     
  3. 545

    545 Test Drive

    Messages:
    4
    All that gets you is a front m205. Stronger but not a titan swap

    titan swap involves putting the control arms and half shafts from a titan in as well, and titan swap coilovers. This gets you increased travel in the front suspension as well as the stronger m205
     
  4. 13ADVX

    13ADVX Bought an X

    Messages:
    93
    Location:
    PA
  5. JeffPro4x

    JeffPro4x Hot Pipe Super Moderator Supporting Member

    Messages:
    9,541
    Location:
    Glenside, PA
    13ADVX likes this.
  6. KC!

    KC! Bought an X

    Messages:
    160
    :p
    & Tie-Rods :D
     
    TerryD likes this.
  7. Brunnie

    Brunnie Bought an X Supporting Member

    Messages:
    163
    Location:
    Colorado Springs
    OK That answers the "Titan Swap" question.

    So now it is off to find a proper front diff and a Pro-4/Off Road rear diff and I'll have a stronger front and rear diff and slightly worse gas mileage. :D
     
  8. IM1RU

    IM1RU Wheeling Supporting Member

    Messages:
    410
    Location:
    SLC, UT
    Just so you are aware, just the front will cost you:
    M205 $600 - $900
    M205 Gears / Install $1000 - $1200
    LCA- UCA $400 - $1000
    CV's $200 - $500
    Tie Rods $60 - $100
    T Swap Shocks $400- $1500
    Brake Lines $100 (Front Only)
    Bump Stops (Stock Titan Don't work) $220

    Minimum (sourcing your own parts, including non OEM stock titan items) $2100

    Maximum (But not really the Max) $5600

    Keep in mind this is only the Front

    Point of reference, I spent $3200 and I was already re geared with an R180 so I didn't do the M205

    Add Alcan Springs, a rear end, re gear for that, rear shocks, wheel spacers, Brake Lines, BumpStops, locker for front, OBA..... you get the idea

    I figure with my set up with an open R180 and 4.10's I'm into the set up nearly 8k
     
  9. Brunnie

    Brunnie Bought an X Supporting Member

    Messages:
    163
    Location:
    Colorado Springs
    All very good info but I'm not going for a full Titan swap. I'm just wanting a beefier front and rear diff.
    M205 w 3.36 gears - $400 - $900 (I've seen some near the $300 - $500 range)
    M226 w 3.36 gears - $900+

    And I may not do this at all, depending on what I find in the JYs. As it stands right now I have to hit the powerball for at least $500m to get everything that is on my various wish lists. ;)
    Cabin fever always brings out the dreamer/shopper in me, when I'm not planning trips.
     
    TerryD likes this.
  10. 545

    545 Test Drive

    Messages:
    4
    if you just want stronger, just add the locka to the front r180
    I don’t think I have heard of anyone breaking one of those.
    it also gives you a locked front end, which is worth the money
    The c200 diff in the rear is also plenty strong already
     
  11. IM1RU

    IM1RU Wheeling Supporting Member

    Messages:
    410
    Location:
    SLC, UT
    Gotta Disagree with ya there....

    First , the lokka just transfers the stress to the cv's. I've changed out 5 CV's on my friends rig because of that damned thing, all but one on the trail. (I know them's is fightin words for lokka lovers, but I've seen it and fixed it too many times) My advice is, run don't walk from a lokka. Either run it open or ARB it.

    Second the C200 is plenty strong if you're gonna stay on the road, not if you intend on much else.... I've also watched those blow up.... (3.13's and 33's is just stupid.)

    It's about gearing. You want a rig that is robust off road, and still great for DD'ing? ... 4.10's and 33's or 4.56's and 35's.

    The 3.69's in the manual, and the 3.36's in the auto are just fine if you're staying with stock tire size, and don't add much weight.
     
    TerryD likes this.

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