- Location
- Hainesville IL
would PVC have worked for that section?
TKDX00 - Steena's Build
- Thread starter TKDx00
- Start date
would PVC have worked for that section?
- Location
- S.Subs of Chicago, IL.
I think PVC would work, however, the 90* turns pose the problems. The openings aren't true 3" so you'd have to get something to either get larger or smaller to fit from the snork or to the box. 2" PVC would fit without having to modify the inner fender but restricts the airflow from the snork and 3" PVC causes you to cut and hammer the inner fender to make it fit. So the tubing I found in 1 piece leaves the airflow true and will fit the box and the snork...I believe.
NMTerras
Suspension Lift
- Location
- New Mexico
Flex tube made things a lot easier for me, although I still had to cut the inner wall to accommodate the angle of the Apollo filter. Looking forward to see how it works out with a stock box...
- Location
- Hainesville IL
but in the end, its the fact its water tight that counts 
- Location
- S.Subs of Chicago, IL.
The IBS Dual battery system arrived and I ordered the tubing for the snork today...woohoo!!!
Really am looking forward for Spring. :w00t:
Really am looking forward for Spring. :w00t:
- Location
- Columbus OH
What does Irratable Bowel Syndrome have to do with duel batteries??
- Location
- Central FL
Zing!
Sent from my Galaxy S III
Sent from my Galaxy S III
- Location
- Hainesville IL
HAHAHA oh Lord!
- Location
- S.Subs of Chicago, IL.
Absolutely nothing...it's the EXTRA TUBING that counts...without it the Irratated Bowels don't let the crap out!!!
- Location
- S.Subs of Chicago, IL.
Added the snorkel today...
Temp dropped and started snowing as I found out there's not enough room to use the 90* turning tube that came with the Snork. So I've gotta cut and hammer the inner fender anyway. 1/2 a mod is better than none. To be completed in the Spring.
Temp dropped and started snowing as I found out there's not enough room to use the 90* turning tube that came with the Snork. So I've gotta cut and hammer the inner fender anyway. 1/2 a mod is better than none. To be completed in the Spring.
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- Location
- Carlisle, Iowa
Looks good! No one needs to know if it's fully functional or not LOL
ymbhonk
First Fill-Up (of many)
- Location
- Puyallup, WA
Looking good
- Location
- Central FL
Looks good Greg!
Sent from my Galaxy S III
Sent from my Galaxy S III
- Location
- S.Subs of Chicago, IL.
Thanks guys... not too bad for the ol' man...lol.
Yeasterday I cut a cord of wood and cleared out alot of space in the garage, now all I need is a large cardboard box for a template and I can start on my next project.
Anyone bought a frige or a stove laterly?:hihi:
Yeasterday I cut a cord of wood and cleared out alot of space in the garage, now all I need is a large cardboard box for a template and I can start on my next project.
Anyone bought a frige or a stove laterly?:hihi:
- Location
- Hainesville IL
well done Greg!
- Location
- S.Subs of Chicago, IL.
I've already got a reply..."go out there in the middle and we can test it...I'll come out and pick you up."
Thank Jim!!!
Hey, where's the pic thread for us Snorkies?
- Location
- S.Subs of Chicago, IL.
Thank you Sir.
- Location
- S.Subs of Chicago, IL.
Well I figured out this morning when I went to put MMO in before an oil change that the X has been leaking antifreeze into the block. No leaks on the ground. Only signs are the engine has been warming up quicker than normal in this cold weather, more water vapors comming out the tailpipe and the engine dropping revs every now and then at idle.
I figured the head gasket was shot when I noticed a yellowish foamy residue in the oil cap threads. So the Steena is down for a while prolly spring before it warms up enough to break down the engine.
Oh the joy of owning a GEN1...lol
I figured the head gasket was shot when I noticed a yellowish foamy residue in the oil cap threads. So the Steena is down for a while prolly spring before it warms up enough to break down the engine.
Oh the joy of owning a GEN1...lol
- Location
- Hainesville IL
did your oil kinda look like chocolate milk too? if so its for sure the head gasket. you gonna get a coolant flush too?
- Location
- S.Subs of Chicago, IL.
Didn't bother looking any further. Although I did pickup some rad flush and new coolant for when I do tear down the engine.
- Location
- S.Subs of Chicago, IL.
Well, I started my rebuilding research and found a thread where the guy did basically what I've got to do but he did a bit more. Nice set of pics and explainations. He lived in a warm climate and took him a few months to do all the changing and upgrades. I figure I'd have to add 2 more months at least with my work schedule.
As it stands now the plan is to break down the engine to the block by removing the intake, heads and exhaust manifolds. Then replace any gasket I find, replace old, worn, and I sure busted bolts(I'm sure to break at least 1) then replace the OEM exhaust w/ DT Headers...what da heck, I'm in there might as well...lol. And in the process, attempt to take pics along the way.
So right now I don't know if I'll make nXm3. But who knows, might find $30K and get a '13 Fronty...lol.
As it stands now the plan is to break down the engine to the block by removing the intake, heads and exhaust manifolds. Then replace any gasket I find, replace old, worn, and I sure busted bolts(I'm sure to break at least 1) then replace the OEM exhaust w/ DT Headers...what da heck, I'm in there might as well...lol. And in the process, attempt to take pics along the way.
So right now I don't know if I'll make nXm3. But who knows, might find $30K and get a '13 Fronty...lol.
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- Location
- Hainesville IL
if you need help with the rebuild, you know where to find me.
- Location
- S.Subs of Chicago, IL.
Thanks Jim...I will keep that in mind.
- Location
- machesney park IL
I have the exact same issue with the head gasket. I'll likely check compression this summer if its lost quite a bit toss in a low mile engine or rebuild the heads. No sense in replacing the headgasket if the engine is worn out. Just a thought. I know these engines run forever. The threads I've been reading about 01's seem to have a defect in the casting of the head that causes it to leak over time. Mine leaks externally at the back of the block coolant weeps sludge ever so slowly. Been driving it the past 2 years that way. Oil fill was scummy as you said. Thinking about a oil analysis test before I dig in. Seems few have fixed the headgasket issue without taking it some place or doing it over which scares me slightly.
Ben
Ben
If you do a full rebuild, I've got what can be considered a 'starter list' available for download https://dl.dropbox.com/u/92555330/VG33e Rebuild.xlsx
The OEM parts came off of CourtesyParts.com, but I have not called them to verify which ones would be used.
The OEM parts came off of CourtesyParts.com, but I have not called them to verify which ones would be used.
- Location
- S.Subs of Chicago, IL.
Ben,
If you would, explain that oil test please and what it checks for and tells, who does it ect... If there's a possibility that changing the gaskets might be a waste without doing somwething else then I need to do something else. Do you do your own compression test? If not, I'm guessing any decent machanic shop can do it.
I emailed Courtesy for a list of gaskets involved and they sent a list. However 2 of the gaskets were for the Altima. But it gave me the direction I needed to find the ones for the Xterra. So I do have a complete list of gaskets for at least the top of the VG33.
If you would, explain that oil test please and what it checks for and tells, who does it ect... If there's a possibility that changing the gaskets might be a waste without doing somwething else then I need to do something else. Do you do your own compression test? If not, I'm guessing any decent machanic shop can do it.
I emailed Courtesy for a list of gaskets involved and they sent a list. However 2 of the gaskets were for the Altima. But it gave me the direction I needed to find the ones for the Xterra. So I do have a complete list of gaskets for at least the top of the VG33.
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Here's a copy of the last test I had done back in October: http://photos.oradat.com/oilreports.pdf
There's a LOT of info on here, and it takes a while to understand it all, but they do a pretty good job of telling you in plain english at the top what's going on. I could try to explain what all the elements are, and where they come from, but I would be giving you a straight retelling from http://www.blackstone-labs.com/report-explanation.php The tests I have done cost $25, and they send you the sample kit for free.
There's a LOT of info on here, and it takes a while to understand it all, but they do a pretty good job of telling you in plain english at the top what's going on. I could try to explain what all the elements are, and where they come from, but I would be giving you a straight retelling from http://www.blackstone-labs.com/report-explanation.php The tests I have done cost $25, and they send you the sample kit for free.
- Location
- S.Subs of Chicago, IL.
- Location
- machesney park IL
Lol how does brake fluid get in your engine? Yeah on mine the oil fill is scummy. Pretty much all cars do it during the winter do to condensation. Hot then cold creates water just like the outside of a cold drink on a hot day. My oil isn't milky so I still can't be positive its leaking though I have reason to believe so do to the leak. Compression test kits aren't to expensive. Its basicly a air pressure gauge you install in place of the spark plug. Once the gauge is in place you pull the fuel pump relay (so the engine cranks but won't start). Then you crank the engine over see how much pressure your building in each cylinder. Compare the numbers to specs in the manual to see how fresh the engine is and if it needs a rebuild do to poor sealing valves or piston rings.
Ben
Ben
- Location
- Hainesville IL
one of the first tests i learned in my engine rebuild class last semester lol.
also Greg, to narrow down the possible cause of the leakage is to put a few drops of oil into the cylinder and do the test again. if compression goes up on the gauge then it is not the piston rings so then it would ether be head gasket or a valve not seated properly.
- Location
- S.Subs of Chicago, IL.
BL parts arrived today... thanks TB. In the garage they go with all the other mods. I'm gonna have one loooong mod weekend come spring maybe 2 or 3...lol. Next up are the engine gaskets.
- Location
- S.Subs of Chicago, IL.
Ordered gaskets for the engine, carpeting for the storage unit, relays for the toggles and a red panic button for the air horns today.
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- Location
- S.Subs of Chicago, IL.
Found out today it's a 3 week back order status on the Calmini HD steering... BUMMER!!!
Good news... carpet, relays and air horn button arrived last night. Toggles to be delivered tomorrow...WOOOHOOO!!!
Good news... carpet, relays and air horn button arrived last night. Toggles to be delivered tomorrow...WOOOHOOO!!!
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- Location
- Hainesville IL
i would love a video of that air horn when its hooked up my good sir.
Jack Stilts
Skid Plates
- Location
- Michigan
- Location
- S.Subs of Chicago, IL.
I will do you 1 better. Since the battery in the X died (I didn't start it all winter) I'll hook the horns up to the van and shoot a vid.