GPD605X Build Thread
- Thread starter GPD605X
- Start date
- Location
- Gulfport, MS
Thanks alot to everyone and their advice. It's a very heavy decision and have to do some serious number crunching and thinking. Thanks again everyone!
I feel for you too, man. I'm not sure what I would do in your situation but everyone is giving sound advise and options. Getting rid of the headache and having a fresh start always sounds good in the middle of dealing with the headache. There are just no guarantees that the new vehicle won't be a headache, too. You know this X is though - hard as it is for all of us to admit. Decisions . . .
CrazySteve911
Need Bigger Tires
- Location
- Loris, SC
I would personally keep the X. DRB said it fantasticly when he said if you bought a brand new X for 25k then spend at LEAST another grand or four on it, you're more than the deep than you are now. Or will be. I would fix the X you have now, because if the engine is what was causing the problems, new engine, no problem. Plus you dont want to be spending 400 a month on a new X that you have to start over on anyways.
- Location
- Gulfport, MS
Yea, I'm most likely going that route but I'm exhausting all efforts to see which is best
- Location
- Probably in class..
Tmayo is selling his X.. You could sell yours and buy his.. Already TS'd
- Location
- Gulfport, MS
Page? I can't find it
- Location
- Amarillo, TX
I'm gonna play devil's advocate here, and, point out a few angles that the money alone doesn't cover.
Yes, you're going to drop 25K on that "new" X with less than 5K on it, and yes, if that's a picture of the actual vehicle (since it says it may not be), that's a Pro4X, which means, it's got a locker (that you don't now), a new transmission (that shouldn't ever have the pink milkshake of death issue), a new radiator (that will keep the PMOD at bay), a new motor (I seem to recall the gen 2.5 having a bit more power than the gen 2.0), and, above all, it's still within factory warranty, as it's less than 3 years old and has less than 36,000 miles.
in looking through the pics, it **IS** a P4X, it's already got new 265/75R16's on it that're pretty aggressive mud tires, and, aftermarket wheels, has a volant CAI, and is the leather interior package.
if you get the loan for that, buy it, and swap all of your modded stuff in, you aren't out any funds on those mods, and, then you put the stuff you took off of that new one and put on the old one before you sell it.
you aren't out major money for repairs on a vehicle that's already 8 years old, you have new suspension and everything else (unless you swap yours in) and it's a good chance you can argue that X down to 23K at least, if not 20K. now, you sell your X for whatever you can get out of it (lets hope for the best and say oh...5500? you slap that 5500 down toward principle, now your loan is down to $14,500 best case scenario, and you're at the same money as getting your X fixed, but with a new one, that hasn't been full of problems.
most banks are far more willing to offer up a loan for a new vehicle than they are for a huge amount of repairs, especially when the repairs exceed the vehicle's value...the bank considers that vehicle totaled.
the other side of the coin, I'd be mildly worried about someone that put that much money into a 2012 with less than 5K on it and now it's back on a dealership lot...
if you fix YOUR X, you don't have to swap anything, and, it's an X you're already comfortable with. you've already got everything tweaked to how you want things, or, are in the process of doing so.
honestly, if you can afford the payments, I'd say take a mechanic to the lot, go check that P4X out, and snatch that sucker up, and start putting your modded goodies into it, if it were me, that's sure as hell the direction I'd go. I'd lay money that a bone stock P4X will go places a lifted non-locked xterra can't, simply because of the locker. it's worth the extra, granted, you could slap one into your X after you get it back and get it fixed, then you're throwing another 2-3 grand into it because of everything that goes along with doing an ARB locker, as well as the labor to do it (cause I sure as heck wouldn't do a diff change unless I'd done a LOT of them before)
- Location
- Gulfport, MS
Man, you make some great points. Also I think from the pictures, it has sliders on it as well, which is a bonus. I owe $8,133.68 on the X as of right now. I'm thinking that if they will take my trade in as is, maybe they can keep the price @ $25k or less. If they give me $4k for it, that leaves 4k to be added onto whatever vehicle I get. If they won't budge at all on the price then I would have to go a different direction with it and maybe find another X. I completely agree w/ the fact that the bank might not give me a loan to repair a vehicle that isn't worth it in their opinion. Just like an accident...if it cost more to fix it than they could get out of it, they would consider it totaled. I'm worried about that other side of the coin as well. Sliders, Tires, Wheels, Painting the buck tooth and Volant CAI all on something w/ less than 5k miles on it, why is it back at the dealership. Could it be that the person could no longer afford it? Could it be a military guy getting deployed? I'm not sure but I will be asking though. A brand new 2013 P4X would cost near $35k if not more than that. The only thing this particular X is missing that a P4X doesn't have is the P4X embroidered on the seats. I like the look of this white one but I'm leery of buying a modded vehicle. If I were to purchase that particular X, the tires are too aggressive and are 16's. I just spend $1,200 on BFG A/T's (and we know the dealership won't give any extra for that) and are on 17's. I like the wheels that are on it but an aggressive M/T for 98% pavement just doesn't seem right. Obviously my current Xoskel Light Cage and lights wouldn't work but I can easily sell that or sell the P4X lights and swamp em. It does look like it may be lifted? Maybe spacers but not sure. I can swap that out as well. My current X is also in need of new shocks and the leafs are completely flat and rides horrible. The front sits higher than the rear which isn't good for MPG's.
I did find this one also by the way, not sure which is a better deal. Its a 2012 P4X with 100 miles on it. It says it had hail damage but I can't see it in the pictures but obviously would need to be checked out in person and has no current mods on it.
2012 Pro-4X
Now onto my current Xterra. On top of the engine issues, the car rides rough as hail. It needs new shocks and new leafs. The leafs are completely flat and need replacing. The leaf's themselves are $400 and not sure on what shocks would cost. Cosmetically it has a 2 dings and some pin stripes from wheeling. The paint is also peeling around the windshield.
I say those things because they would need to be replaced but if I got that 2012, I wouldn't need to replace them.
A lot of this will depend on the payments would be for the P4X. I'm paying $279 right now which I can easily swing. I certainly don't want to get into a close to $500 car note. Also, if I do decide to get this X, it is out of state. Which means I would have to pay that states taxes and then when I go to purchase my current state tag, pay my state taxes as well. I bought my current X in AL and how that worked was that I paid AL state taxes when I purchased the car and MS taxes when I bought my tag. The dealership reimbursed me the AL state taxes once I provided them with proof that I paid MS state taxes. I'm assuming that's what would occur in this situation as well. Car insurance would also go up. My current insurance rate w/ Geico is around $100 a month full coverage. MS State Tax is 7%. So that would be a big amount out of pocket just to get a tag for the vehicle so I have to keep that in mind as well. It's just a huge gamble either way I go...
I did find this one also by the way, not sure which is a better deal. Its a 2012 P4X with 100 miles on it. It says it had hail damage but I can't see it in the pictures but obviously would need to be checked out in person and has no current mods on it.
2012 Pro-4X
Now onto my current Xterra. On top of the engine issues, the car rides rough as hail. It needs new shocks and new leafs. The leafs are completely flat and need replacing. The leaf's themselves are $400 and not sure on what shocks would cost. Cosmetically it has a 2 dings and some pin stripes from wheeling. The paint is also peeling around the windshield.
I say those things because they would need to be replaced but if I got that 2012, I wouldn't need to replace them.
A lot of this will depend on the payments would be for the P4X. I'm paying $279 right now which I can easily swing. I certainly don't want to get into a close to $500 car note. Also, if I do decide to get this X, it is out of state. Which means I would have to pay that states taxes and then when I go to purchase my current state tag, pay my state taxes as well. I bought my current X in AL and how that worked was that I paid AL state taxes when I purchased the car and MS taxes when I bought my tag. The dealership reimbursed me the AL state taxes once I provided them with proof that I paid MS state taxes. I'm assuming that's what would occur in this situation as well. Car insurance would also go up. My current insurance rate w/ Geico is around $100 a month full coverage. MS State Tax is 7%. So that would be a big amount out of pocket just to get a tag for the vehicle so I have to keep that in mind as well. It's just a huge gamble either way I go...
- Location
- Amarillo, TX
ok, I'll reply piece by piece....
thanks, I try to think of both sides when offering advice...
I hadn't spotted those, if they're there, good eye, and true, that's more bonus
right, except, in an accident, the insurance company is cutting you a check for the repairs, you aren't having to ask for a larger loan...
one more thing it's missing*
honestly, stick to the 16's if you have the choice, tires are cheaper, and, the up side here is that those are the factory size for a pro4X/Offroad, so, the speedo should be dead on, provided of course that the rig is a P4X and not a decked out S trim to look like a P4X.
you could sell the stock ones, if they're wired like stock ones should be, I'd take em out, since they're only on when the hi-beams are on, and that pretty well sucks.
maybe, I'd have to look up the actual size of those tires and then go take a look at a pic of mine when it was empty and didn't have heavy as hell sliders (mine probably weigh anywhere from 50-100% more than a normal set of shrock or similar sliders)
well, allow me to dissect that one.
1. it's obviously a P4X, but, it's NOT the one in the description.
2. there's no hail damage visible in any pictures
3. the description says it's got "Interior Color Gray/Steel W/Unique Cloth Seat" but, those are obviously leather seats (with Pro4X embroidery, so, that backs up that the other one is a tricked out S trim)
4. if it **IS** hail damaged (and the pics are older), you talk them down under 20K, excellent condition on that vehicle bluebooks at 28,356, and, unless there's hardly any hail damage to be found, don't settle for less than 20K, 22K at absolute max. my hood is totalled and I have a total of 7 hail dents anywhere else on the vehicle and I got a check for about $7500 after my $500 deductible. that translates to over $8000 in damage, so, if it has hail damage, ask to take it for an unsupervised test drive, take it to the most reputable body shop in town and have them quote you for the hail repair (with REPLACEMENT not paintless dent repair or anything else like that) and insist on that coming off of the price tag.
so add it all up, figure out what your grand total in repairs needed is, and throw up a total price, then look at what your bank is willing to do, and go from there. if you want to keep your 17's and new BFG AT's have the dealership swap em, no biggie, if you can stand to part with em, trade them to someone with an xterra with stock wheels/tires for their stock ones and some cash, use it toward the trade.
don't bet on it, I pay $130/month with geico for full coverage on my 2010, and my 2003 buick, with my wife having two speeding tickets on the record.
not necessarily, you shouldn't have to pay out of state tax on it....that's crap and a dealership trying to screw you over, at least it sounds like it to me.
anyway, that's my thoughts, hopefully they help, and if not, tell me to shut up, I take that well enough
thanks, I try to think of both sides when offering advice...
I hadn't spotted those, if they're there, good eye, and true, that's more bonus
right, except, in an accident, the insurance company is cutting you a check for the repairs, you aren't having to ask for a larger loan...
yup, there's more than that too....**IF** the dealership is right and it isn't a P4X, thus no locker, which, I couldn't be 100% sure on whether or not I saw the switch for it or not, but, that rockford system is the stock system on the P4X, and I don't think it is on an S trim, not even sure it's an option...that OR/P4X airdam is a $1500 part, plus lights, wiring, stock switch, etc, so, if that's NOT a factory P4X, it's a HUGE flag on why it's back on the lot, because, that rig has had more money in mods put on it than it's had miles driven, or payments made on it.
I paid 25K brand new for my 2010 Offroad, they start at $35K but the dealership pays around 20K for em brand new, or at least they did on mine...so, they weren't too angry when I got em down that low...
one more thing it's missing*
honestly, stick to the 16's if you have the choice, tires are cheaper, and, the up side here is that those are the factory size for a pro4X/Offroad, so, the speedo should be dead on, provided of course that the rig is a P4X and not a decked out S trim to look like a P4X.
you could sell the stock ones, if they're wired like stock ones should be, I'd take em out, since they're only on when the hi-beams are on, and that pretty well sucks.
maybe, I'd have to look up the actual size of those tires and then go take a look at a pic of mine when it was empty and didn't have heavy as hell sliders (mine probably weigh anywhere from 50-100% more than a normal set of shrock or similar sliders)
well, allow me to dissect that one.
1. it's obviously a P4X, but, it's NOT the one in the description.
2. there's no hail damage visible in any pictures
3. the description says it's got "Interior Color Gray/Steel W/Unique Cloth Seat" but, those are obviously leather seats (with Pro4X embroidery, so, that backs up that the other one is a tricked out S trim)
4. if it **IS** hail damaged (and the pics are older), you talk them down under 20K, excellent condition on that vehicle bluebooks at 28,356, and, unless there's hardly any hail damage to be found, don't settle for less than 20K, 22K at absolute max. my hood is totalled and I have a total of 7 hail dents anywhere else on the vehicle and I got a check for about $7500 after my $500 deductible. that translates to over $8000 in damage, so, if it has hail damage, ask to take it for an unsupervised test drive, take it to the most reputable body shop in town and have them quote you for the hail repair (with REPLACEMENT not paintless dent repair or anything else like that) and insist on that coming off of the price tag.
so add it all up, figure out what your grand total in repairs needed is, and throw up a total price, then look at what your bank is willing to do, and go from there. if you want to keep your 17's and new BFG AT's have the dealership swap em, no biggie, if you can stand to part with em, trade them to someone with an xterra with stock wheels/tires for their stock ones and some cash, use it toward the trade.
you SHOULDN'T have to...anytime you're buying a vehicle out of state, they're supposed to have the ability to charge you the taxes for your home state and process your license/title fees based on your home state (buddy bought his wife's car in CO, got texas plates and paid texas taxes on it at the point of purchase)
don't bet on it, I pay $130/month with geico for full coverage on my 2010, and my 2003 buick, with my wife having two speeding tickets on the record.
not necessarily, you shouldn't have to pay out of state tax on it....that's crap and a dealership trying to screw you over, at least it sounds like it to me.
anyway, that's my thoughts, hopefully they help, and if not, tell me to shut up, I take that well enough
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- Location
- Denver Adjacent
I understand the desire to rebuild what you have but after reading the laundry list of other things that are not even related to the engine problem, it just seems like you'd be throwing good money after bad.
At that point it'd be a runaway project for sure. You'd be in so deep that it would never be feasible to get out even if you wanted to.
I think in your shoes, I'd be looking at some of the many low to zero mileage 2010+ P4Xs out there. I've seen some for as low as $23k advertised. With proper negotiation, it should be possible to get that down under $20k.
Take what you can get for the one you have. Keeping in mind that your mods (including tires) are worth nothing as a trade in but may be useful to someone else. That being said, I'd be doing what I could to return it to factory spec before taking it to trade. Sell your wheels and tires to someone for cash+their stock shoes, remove your xoskel, if you have lift spacers, pull em and either save em for the new X or sell em.
Best of luck to you in this situation. Hard decisions are hard.
At that point it'd be a runaway project for sure. You'd be in so deep that it would never be feasible to get out even if you wanted to.
I think in your shoes, I'd be looking at some of the many low to zero mileage 2010+ P4Xs out there. I've seen some for as low as $23k advertised. With proper negotiation, it should be possible to get that down under $20k.
Take what you can get for the one you have. Keeping in mind that your mods (including tires) are worth nothing as a trade in but may be useful to someone else. That being said, I'd be doing what I could to return it to factory spec before taking it to trade. Sell your wheels and tires to someone for cash+their stock shoes, remove your xoskel, if you have lift spacers, pull em and either save em for the new X or sell em.
Best of luck to you in this situation. Hard decisions are hard.
Dhyd.. There is no way that you are going to get that px4 near 14k.. Not even close.. The guy owes 8k now.. Lets be honest here.. No dealer is going to give you over 3500 for that Xterra.. He would have to roll what he owes into the new loan.. We will say 4500. Now you are already paying 4500 more for a Xterra than its worth..
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- Location
- Amarillo, TX
I missed that he owed 8k on the current one
I also, wasn't suggesting selling it to a dealer, but rather private party.
If he goes after the '12 with the hail, and can talk em down to around 20 with the trade in, then he's only paying what that one is worth, perhaps slightly more...
- Location
- Amarillo, TX
Hm, true point there....pesky banks!
- Location
- Gulfport, MS
Well went to the stealership today to talk to them and just get an idea. My credit is pretty shot from the Ex-Wife and the divorce so I'm not looking at a good APR%. My local credit union said they would give me 17.99% APR which is absolutely ridiculous. From what I was told by the salesman, that there is an actual % cap on new cars that I would be able to get a better rate (supposedly). So he went to try and find a 2013 Xterra 4x4 S. They couldn't find any. The only Xterra they had on their lot was a 2wd. The salesman said they have hundreds of different lots in their network and would check to see if any of those had one. Of course, there wasn't a single 2013 Xterra S 4x4 in 500 miles. He told me to give him a week to try and get it here. Meanwhile, they were appraising my X as a trade in and was waiting to see what they said. It was getting close to me having to leave for work so I told them that and he brought me the keys and said they were still working on the numbers but he would call me once the appraisal came in. I have a good friend of mine that works at the dealership and he said that they got slammed after I left and it would probably be tomorrow for the appraisal. I'm def not going to be signing anything or committing to anything right now. I'm just weighing my options.
I have a credit card w/ 10% APR that I could put the repairs on. From what I've crunched.... Paying $200 a month on the card, it would be paid off in 42 months, and pay $1,310.00 in interest. If I pay $200 a month on top of the car note of $279, thats a payment of $479 every month. The way I see it, I could pay $479 for a 8 year old car, or pay close to that (not sure exactly until they actually find the X I want) for a brand new X. I'm sure my APR% will be less than 18% but honestly, I can't be for certain. Pending on what the dealership says, it might be my best interest to just use the card and fix it and keep it even if its not the best option.
I have a credit card w/ 10% APR that I could put the repairs on. From what I've crunched.... Paying $200 a month on the card, it would be paid off in 42 months, and pay $1,310.00 in interest. If I pay $200 a month on top of the car note of $279, thats a payment of $479 every month. The way I see it, I could pay $479 for a 8 year old car, or pay close to that (not sure exactly until they actually find the X I want) for a brand new X. I'm sure my APR% will be less than 18% but honestly, I can't be for certain. Pending on what the dealership says, it might be my best interest to just use the card and fix it and keep it even if its not the best option.
- Location
- Probably in class..
What about maybe not a brand new X. What about a uses but great X. Maybe a few mods.. Maybe not. Transfer all your stuff on it and then work from there?
- Location
- Gulfport, MS
Well I'm going to see what my options are as far as new and used. Honestly, I would much rather drive 4hrs away to FL and get that 2012 P4X for $25 than get a 2013 S for almost the same
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- Location
- Gulfport, MS
Appraisal just came back and they appraised it at $6,500.00! Now I'm just waiting to see if they can find me the right X to get me in, then haggle on price and then financing.
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- Location
- Amarillo, TX
That's awesome! Don't settle for a non-pro4x though
- Location
- Gulfport, MS
Lol yea. They are trying to find me a 2013 S 4x4 right now. But if the price on that doesn't work out, I'll look for an X model. I'll have to see what the differences are in the packages
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- Location
- Amarillo, TX
Why an S? It doesn't have the locker...
- Location
- Amarillo, TX
True, it's not the only change from one to the other model either... And last time I checked, unless you can do the labor yourself, a locker will cost around 2800 installed
$1050 for the ARB plus shipping
$300 for the ARB compressor kit plus shipping
My local shop said 14 hours labor at $92/hr = $1288
Rental car for 2 days (around here, cheapest one is $72 for an SUV, so, $144)
Totals $2782 plus the shipping on the ARB stuff. That also assumes that nothing other than the above parts are needed.
I'd say for a factory locker plus anything else that comes with the change to the Pro4X package, $1200 isn't so bad, especially since it's a matter of payments vs cash up front to add one later.
- Location
- Amarillo, TX
You have a shop that's willing to install ARB lockers and run the lines, hook the compressor up, and everything using the ARB compressor kit and all for $400? Hell, that's a great deal...
- Location
- Amarillo, TX
I'm also referring to the difference in the safety measures that the p4x has too...also the larger tires that aren't BFG long trails...
Also, he'd found used low mileage p4x's for around 25k not 31k
- Location
- Amarillo, TX
- Location
- Gulfport, MS
With my credit, I can't afford a brand new P4X. Plus, I have to see if they can find the right X for me and then get them down to their bottom dollar price then worry about financing.
No 4wp anywhere near me
Yea, I don't have any near me either. I told the salesman that if he were to find me the right Xterra, I want to swap my current tires and spacers. I'm def not giving them anything I've added onto it (which isn't much). The salesman said that it wouldn't be a problem for them to do that for me. I have a good friend who is a parts manager there and he says this salesman is really good and honest and will help me in any way he can.
- Location
- Gulfport, MS
They called me today to tell me they found 1 2013 S 4x4. Here's the link: 2013 Xterra S 4x4
The vehicle is 2hrs away from me and the dealership won't get it to their lot unless I commit to buying it. My problem is that I want to be able to test drive it and check it thoroughly before I spend that kind of money. The sticker on it is $28k which is way more than I expected. I know that I can talk them down from that price, but I'm wondering if I could just build a 2013 X model for cheaper... I don't need the mud flaps or step rails and if I get an S, they come with that. The one they found for me is pretty sweet but the price has me 2nd guessing. What ya think?
I also built an X model on the nissan website, added fogs, hatch tent, rubber mats and in channel visors for $26k.
And a base P4X is $30k.
I mean it has a pretty sweet audio system but no steering wheel audio controls (I currently have those in mine and I really like them), no fog lights which I thought was standard on the S package. And for $25k I can drive 4hrs away and get a 2012 P4X with 100 miles on it.
The vehicle is 2hrs away from me and the dealership won't get it to their lot unless I commit to buying it. My problem is that I want to be able to test drive it and check it thoroughly before I spend that kind of money. The sticker on it is $28k which is way more than I expected. I know that I can talk them down from that price, but I'm wondering if I could just build a 2013 X model for cheaper... I don't need the mud flaps or step rails and if I get an S, they come with that. The one they found for me is pretty sweet but the price has me 2nd guessing. What ya think?
I also built an X model on the nissan website, added fogs, hatch tent, rubber mats and in channel visors for $26k.
And a base P4X is $30k.
I mean it has a pretty sweet audio system but no steering wheel audio controls (I currently have those in mine and I really like them), no fog lights which I thought was standard on the S package. And for $25k I can drive 4hrs away and get a 2012 P4X with 100 miles on it.
- Location
- Gulfport, MS
Yea, I just think $28k is a little much. I was thinking more around $20-$25 area
There were - maybe still are - some Nissan incentives. I was at the dealership on 7/31 and they had 12 - 2012 S models to clear out. All 4x4. 2 manuals.
They were advertised at $22,500 and $22,600 with an asterisk. Dealer discount + previous Nissan owner blah blah blah. One incentive was a Leaf trade-in so BS. In the end, price negotiated was around $23K.
Granted, this is Colorado where they are all 4x4 (can't get a 2x4 - wouldn't want one here anyway) and X's are common.
They were advertised at $22,500 and $22,600 with an asterisk. Dealer discount + previous Nissan owner blah blah blah. One incentive was a Leaf trade-in so BS. In the end, price negotiated was around $23K.
Granted, this is Colorado where they are all 4x4 (can't get a 2x4 - wouldn't want one here anyway) and X's are common.
- Location
- Gulfport, MS
Yea 4x4 X's are rare down here. Just about every X out there is 2wd
- Location
- Gulfport, MS
Well, looks like I will be fixing the X. Thanks to the Ex-Wife, my credit was bad enough that the APR % was 18% and getting a car loan for that much to me isn't the best option financially. The credit card I'm using has 0% for the 1st year then 10% after that. Since I'm using the credit card, I figured I might as well try and order some new leafs, sliders and skids while I'm at it. Figured I would buy something to cheer myself up lol. Maybe work Calmini Pre-Runner bumper into it as well. Just wanted to say thanks to everyone for all their advice and opinions! I really appreciate it!
- Location
- Gulfport, MS
I'm definitely looking into theirs. If I get any armor, I'll go w/ sliders. I'm going to be ordering OME leafs and new front shocks
- Location
- Idaho!
Dont forget skids, too! Skids and sliders, best purchase EVAR.