GPD605X Build Thread
- Thread starter GPD605X
- Start date
- Location
- Probably in class..
I think once you go plastidip, it's going to be easy for you to bedline.
Jack Stilts
Skid Plates
- Location
- Michigan
Nice photoshop skillz. Mine will look similar, just...1st Gen. Yours is going to just be my big brother.
Oh, and the silver does look awesome on that bar.
Oh, and the silver does look awesome on that bar.
- Location
- Gulfport, MS
Thanks! I just gotta get the stuff and actually do it. If I do go with a bedliner, I'll probably go w/ Monstaliner. It seems to be the smoothest bedliner out there. I don't like the gritty stuff but love the durability of bedliner. I might get a friend at the body shop to help me lay down the tape so it looks right. I'm sure I can do it myself, but I would rather the help of a professional. I'm also looking around at some local places to fab up some basic sliders and skids to get an idea of what they would charge and what not. I have some plans and dimensions for both and I want to get some armor before NXM3. I also need to do a tune up on the X, seems to be idleing a little rough on me and I also need to wire up the lights and get them aimed. Fangers said I have the lights mounted wrong. Like the rubber shock mounts and metal are supposed to different? Can ya'll verify?
Last edited:
- Location
- Gulfport, MS
Tried and failed to paint my hood today. Used 2 cans of Plasti-Dip in black. Came out horrible. It says to wait 30 mins between coats but was dry to the touch in 10 so I only waited 10 mins. Pulled up the tape when finished (immediately after the last coat while wet) and it pulled off with the tape. Came out of the can horribly and not even at all. I thought maybe it would dry differently but it didn't. Not sure if this was due to not waiting the additional 20 mins or not. It didn't come out of the can that well either and I shook it for a solid 1 min like the can says. Good thing its removable.
1st Coat
Final coat
Nice lines lol
and removal
1st Coat
Final coat
Nice lines lol
and removal
- Location
- Probably in class..
Next time, use an exacto knife and just gently run a line down your tape. I used an entire can on my hood and it came out nicely. You just have to remember that you need to do a little at a time, by the 3rd coat it was starting to be "covered" and by the 5th it was solid.
- Location
- Gulfport, MS
Yea it just didn't seem to come out the can that well. And plus, I had to do a lot of reaching on the hood which made it awkward for spraying. I'll have to give it another try and have a little more patience with it.
- Location
- Gulfport, MS
I'm seriously thinking about doing the whole car in black but I would actually buy the gallons and use a sprayer. Do the matte black and some red accents... Decisions decisions
- Location
- Gulfport, MS
Found this. Its a wider nozzle they offer for the cans. Makes it much easier when doing large areas such as a hood. Wish I would have seen this earlier
Make PlastiDip Work Better
Make PlastiDip Work Better
- Location
- Gulfport, MS
I ordered a new cap, it was like $3 bucks. The difference between the caps is ridiculous. I think that the wider nozzle should come standard on the bottles. Just makes the product spray easier IMO. When the new cap gets here, I'm going to give it another shot. Pending on how that goes, I might just buy some cans and spray the sides too.
- Location
- Probably in class..
I'm thinking of doing my quarter panel when I do the snorkel mod..
- Location
- Gulfport, MS
Got a quote from a local metal shop, for full skids and A-J like Square tube sliders for only $600.00. I'm thinking of just getting 1 or 2 of the skids or the sliders right now and then getting the rest later. What yall think?
Jack Stilts
Skid Plates
- Location
- Michigan
Full skids and sliders for $600? Not bad, dude...
- Location
- Gulfport, MS
Yea, I just gotta figure out what I should get first. I'm thinking sliders before NXM then skids after, not sure...
- Location
- Probably in class..
All that for 600? What a steal.
- Location
- Gulfport, MS
Which should I get first? I can't get em all right now but I want to get at least 1 skid and the sliders. What yall think?
stevencox93
First Fill-Up (of many)
- Location
- Tazewell,Tn
Bedliner!!! I know about bedliner 
- Location
- Gulfport, MS
Yea, I can't afford blowing $600 right now on all that. I would like to get some armor for NXM coming up and trying to figure out which is best to go with. I've been saving up for gas and other stuff. But with Hefty Skids being only $570 for a complete set... I'm thinking since they are direct bolt on and come painted and everything it might be worth just to order them from Hefty and just have the Metal Shop fab up the sliders.
- Location
- Gulfport, MS
Well tried project plasti-dip again with the wider nozzle. Still looks like crap. I took my time and did exactly what the cans said. Did 4 coats and you can tell from the pics that it just didn't turn out right. I went in even smooth motions back and forth. I painted my plastics a while ago and they came out great so I know how to lay it down, but for some reason its just not working out. It looks good where I was close but the streaks are terrible. The nozzle wasn't that great either. I mean it was definitely a wider spray but it was splattering off my finger onto the hood too. Tomorrow, I'm taking the hood off and adding a few more coats and I'm pretty sure it will work out way better.
- Location
- Probably in class..
I hate that you are having such a hard time with this.. Granted maybe mine looks bad and I just don't care.
- Location
- Gulfport, MS
Thanks! I've got a co-worker who is going to cut up the grill and remove the middle completely and have it nice and open. I've got the mesh and everything ready, I just have to drop the grill off to him.
- Location
- Gulfport, MS
And I think once I get the hood off, I won't be reaching so much because on the edges and what not, its nice and even but towards the top and middle is where it isn't so pretty. I'm just going to re-tape the line down and put a few more coats on. I'm going to be getting with a friend of mine who does body work and see how much he would charge to spray the truck. I would buy the gallons and do all the prep. I would also want to assist in any way I can to be more knowledgeable and gain some experience too. I'm just at the point now where there's so many pin stripes that I want to cover them up but in a way I can remove it if necessary. I'm also getting a quote from a local audio shop to see how much they charge to wire my lights up. I just don't trust myself and would want it done the right way. The last thing I need is an electrical fire lol. I'm going to have them drill the roof and have some sort of connector to the lights that way if I want to remove the light cage, I won't have to cut wires, I would just have to unplug them like a headlight but connector or something similar.
- Location
- Probably in class..
I know it would be a while but I would help you wire them up at NXM if you wanted. You would drill your hole as I don't want to be responsible for that, but I would help you wire them up
- Location
- Gulfport, MS
Thanks! Depending on how much they want, I'll probably do that. I'll let ya know and you can tell me what supplies I would need to bring with me. Thanks again!
- Location
- Probably in class..
If it's cheap I'd have them do it, but if it sounds outrageous, I'll help you do it. We could make a demo put of it for everyone who wants to learn.
Jack Stilts
Skid Plates
- Location
- Michigan
Can that demo include a PowerPoint?
- Location
- Probably in class..
That is full of words? For you? Sure I can do that.
But in reality, it wouldn't be bad to have a little mod demo session that if people wanted to learn to wire things up, I could help. It honestly isn't as hard as people think, it is just getting over the hill about it.
Jack Stilts
Skid Plates
- Location
- Michigan
Lolz, just messin'. No, in reality that would be awesome.
- Location
- Gulfport, MS
Yea, I'm still waiting on their quote. But I would def be up to doing that at NXM. Just tell me what I need to bring. I've already ordered my switches so they should be here soon and I can go ahead and have them mounted up, just not wired. But a video would be pretty sweet... just saying
- Location
- Gulfport, MS
Talked with the Metal shop and they want $396 just for the sliders (which to me is ridiculous) and the skids were $204 Plus some bs $60 charge. So I'm going to get my friend who knows how to weld help me design and make some. I'll just go buy the square tubing myself.
Took the X back to the shop because it was idling rough and cut off on me. Couldn't even put it in reverse without it cutting off. I actually had to rev it up and pop it in gear then almost floor it. They cleaned the throttle body. Got it back the next day and still idling rough. Took it back to them and they found some Air Sensor or something similar to it with tape all wrapped around it (not what a mechanic would do) and it was leaking air and that's what was causing the X to stall and cut off on me. They also found a broken motor mount and fixed that. Not sure how that happened but glad its all fixed up.
Took the X back to the shop because it was idling rough and cut off on me. Couldn't even put it in reverse without it cutting off. I actually had to rev it up and pop it in gear then almost floor it. They cleaned the throttle body. Got it back the next day and still idling rough. Took it back to them and they found some Air Sensor or something similar to it with tape all wrapped around it (not what a mechanic would do) and it was leaking air and that's what was causing the X to stall and cut off on me. They also found a broken motor mount and fixed that. Not sure how that happened but glad its all fixed up.
Last edited:
Jack Stilts
Skid Plates
- Location
- Michigan
Dang. Glad that got fixed...
Depending on where you go, sliders might cost that much. I paid $300 for mine, then had to get them welded on ($150) and powder coated ($100). And you can get some quality ones like the White Knuckles, but they start ranging upwards of $500.
You have 69 days, 1 hour, and 12 minutes Plenty of time!
Depending on where you go, sliders might cost that much. I paid $300 for mine, then had to get them welded on ($150) and powder coated ($100). And you can get some quality ones like the White Knuckles, but they start ranging upwards of $500.
You have 69 days, 1 hour, and 12 minutes
Plenty of time!
- Location
- Gulfport, MS
Well looks like armor won't be in the picture....
Well, I took a road trip about 400 miles away from home in the X and about half way thru, something broke. I was driving about 80-85ish and did fine for half the trip (takes 6 1/2hrs) and then all of a sudden the engine started sounding weird. Turned everything off to listen and it was a loud clicking noise. On my route, the Highway was full of uphill and downhill driving. I'm not even using the cruise control cause every time I do uphill, the engine floors it and tries to make up for the loss in momentum. Well I put more pressure on the pedal and the rpms shoot up and I don't go any faster and the engine sounded absolutely horrible. Usually, I get thrown back in my seat when the rpms jump that much. So I let off the throttle and it then shifts and goes down to about 2k rpms. I tried it again to see what would happen and floor it and the same happens. I have the pedal all the way down to the floorboard and I can't go faster than 60mph. The rpms wouldn't go past 5k rpms (not that I was trying to get it past it) but I have never had anything like this happen before. And of course, all of this would occur in the middle of nowhere and no gas stations near. So I pulled over and popped the hood, acted like I knew what I was looking at. I was just checking to see if anything out of the ordinary would stand out and didn't see anything odd. I check the oil and the dipstick is dry (my gauge never showed it). I limp to the nearest gas station about 20 miles away and put 5qts in. Let the X sit for about an hour and just let it "rest". Got back in the X and cranked up fine, sounded fine and didn't seem to be running odd or anything. I fill it up w/ gas and get to driving. As soon as I get on the interstate, it does it again. I can only do about 2000-2500 rpms without the engine sounding like a weed eater at full throttle. At this point I'm about 300 miles away from home and definitely can't afford to tow it back home. I limp my way to out destination and start calling people. My insurance has "road side assistance" and they said they will call a tow truck but they will only cover towing to the nearest dealership within 30 miles which the only dealership within 50 miles was a Dodge/Chrysler dealership. My destination was Tunica, MS which is literally, 5 casinos and nothing but farmland. There are no restaurants, bars and certainly no automotive stores. The tow company they called would charge $3 per mile which would have been about $1,200.00. I certainly don't have $1,200 to shell out on a tow truck. 2 days later, I leave my destination to try and limp back home. Doing my best to stay at 2k rpms and not letting the engine get to the point of sounding horrible. I know that I should have just called a tow truck because I could be causing more damage but it wasn't feasible and didn't have the financial funds to afford that especially with the coming up mechanic costs. I finally made it home in about 7 1/2hrs and dropped it off at the mechanic today on my way into work. I've had some people say its clogged cats and some say its a tranny issue. I have no idea what it could be... But I will say that once it gets fixed, I'm officially done w/ this Xterra. It's been in/out of the shop for the past 2 months and it only seems to get worse. On top of the mechanical issues, I'm only getting 10-10.5 mpg's which I find totally ridiculous. People w/ full armor and bigger tires are getting better mpgs than me. I don't drive crazy or stomp it at every red light. I try to keep it under 2k rpms driving around and I'm pretty conservative. Any ideas what's wrong with it this time?
If I can swing it, I'll get another X but I'm not sure. I would like to trade it in and maybe get a Wrangler or another 4x4 that's more dependable and gets better mpgs.
Well, I took a road trip about 400 miles away from home in the X and about half way thru, something broke. I was driving about 80-85ish and did fine for half the trip (takes 6 1/2hrs) and then all of a sudden the engine started sounding weird. Turned everything off to listen and it was a loud clicking noise. On my route, the Highway was full of uphill and downhill driving. I'm not even using the cruise control cause every time I do uphill, the engine floors it and tries to make up for the loss in momentum. Well I put more pressure on the pedal and the rpms shoot up and I don't go any faster and the engine sounded absolutely horrible. Usually, I get thrown back in my seat when the rpms jump that much. So I let off the throttle and it then shifts and goes down to about 2k rpms. I tried it again to see what would happen and floor it and the same happens. I have the pedal all the way down to the floorboard and I can't go faster than 60mph. The rpms wouldn't go past 5k rpms (not that I was trying to get it past it) but I have never had anything like this happen before. And of course, all of this would occur in the middle of nowhere and no gas stations near. So I pulled over and popped the hood, acted like I knew what I was looking at. I was just checking to see if anything out of the ordinary would stand out and didn't see anything odd. I check the oil and the dipstick is dry (my gauge never showed it). I limp to the nearest gas station about 20 miles away and put 5qts in. Let the X sit for about an hour and just let it "rest". Got back in the X and cranked up fine, sounded fine and didn't seem to be running odd or anything. I fill it up w/ gas and get to driving. As soon as I get on the interstate, it does it again. I can only do about 2000-2500 rpms without the engine sounding like a weed eater at full throttle. At this point I'm about 300 miles away from home and definitely can't afford to tow it back home. I limp my way to out destination and start calling people. My insurance has "road side assistance" and they said they will call a tow truck but they will only cover towing to the nearest dealership within 30 miles which the only dealership within 50 miles was a Dodge/Chrysler dealership. My destination was Tunica, MS which is literally, 5 casinos and nothing but farmland. There are no restaurants, bars and certainly no automotive stores. The tow company they called would charge $3 per mile which would have been about $1,200.00. I certainly don't have $1,200 to shell out on a tow truck. 2 days later, I leave my destination to try and limp back home. Doing my best to stay at 2k rpms and not letting the engine get to the point of sounding horrible. I know that I should have just called a tow truck because I could be causing more damage but it wasn't feasible and didn't have the financial funds to afford that especially with the coming up mechanic costs. I finally made it home in about 7 1/2hrs and dropped it off at the mechanic today on my way into work. I've had some people say its clogged cats and some say its a tranny issue. I have no idea what it could be... But I will say that once it gets fixed, I'm officially done w/ this Xterra. It's been in/out of the shop for the past 2 months and it only seems to get worse. On top of the mechanical issues, I'm only getting 10-10.5 mpg's which I find totally ridiculous. People w/ full armor and bigger tires are getting better mpgs than me. I don't drive crazy or stomp it at every red light. I try to keep it under 2k rpms driving around and I'm pretty conservative. Any ideas what's wrong with it this time?
If I can swing it, I'll get another X but I'm not sure. I would like to trade it in and maybe get a Wrangler or another 4x4 that's more dependable and gets better mpgs.
Are you getting an SES on the dash console? Mine acted like that with a P0301 cylinder 1 misfire code. I first changed the plugs and swapped a few coils. In the end it was a new coil pack and some relearn codes that fixed it.
It could be related to your previous issues. Cats, sensors and injectors can cause your X to go a little wonky. It just sucks figuring it out.
It could be related to your previous issues. Cats, sensors and injectors can cause your X to go a little wonky. It just sucks figuring it out.