New Member/Owner with a lot of dumb questions

[Shane_Anigans]

Greetings, Xterra Nation! As the title says, I've just bought my first Xterra (wanted one for a while) to use as a winter/utility vehicle on days when I don't want to expose my other car to snow/salt/bad drivers/gravel roads/etc. It's a 2011 S, no pics because you've all seen one already. I've got a fair amount of experience with cars, and do as much of my own repairs and maintenance as possible, because I can't find better hobbies. So, here's a list of dumb questions:

1) The rear hatch won't open. (Yes, I am an idiot who didn't check before buying a used car "as-is." I've got a general idea of how to access the latch mechanism from inside the cargo area, but I'm wondering if this is a common issue and/or if I should just go ahead and order a replacement latch (or whatever part has likely failed) before I start taking things apart.

2) Because I have no experience owning anything but hot hatchbacks and similar vehicles, I have no idea what sort of tires I should get. It has a set of Masterfcraft ("boat tires," my friend calls them) A/S tires on it right now, which don't look like they'd be terribly useful in the snow or anything else besides dry pavement, so I want to upgrade to A/T tires that will work in adverse conditions, but also won't make me deaf after 30 minutes on the freeway. The tires I've been eyeing include the Cooper Discover AT3 4S, Firestone Destination A/T2, and General Grabber A/Tx (recommended by a friend who has a set on his Subaru Outback), though I'm leaning more towards the 1st 2 since Discount Tire doesn't carry the Generals and they're my go-to for tires most of the time. With that in mind, if anyone has a recommendation for a similar tire that I haven't thought of, I'd appreciate any suggestions/hidden gems. There was a time when I'd have never considered buying Hankook or Laufenn, but I took a gamble on set of Hankook performance winter tires on my last car and was pleasantly surprised at how nice they were.

3) Audio: I'll be replacing the head unit myself (with something that was designed in the current century), but I'm guessing that as soon as I do, I'll immediately wish I'd upgraded the whole system at the same time. With that in mind, what's a good place to mount a 4-channel amp, that won't require disassembly of the whole interior to wire it back into the car's harness? (Bonus extra-dumb question: there are no audio controls on the steering wheel. How difficult a job is it to retrofit them, and has anyone ever attempted it? I'm envisioning a mammoth job involving new wiring harnesses/contact ring/etc, but maybe there's an easier way).

4) It didn't come with a tow hitch, which I don't really need but would like to have. Are they all basically the same (the price range indicates they are), or is one preferable to another? I don't currently/may never own a trailer, but there are many things that can be mounted on a hitch receiver, and also it's a good place to attach a tow strap if someone ever needs their vehicle removed from a snowy ditch.

I'm pretty sure all of my other questions (and probably these as well) have been asked to death already, so thanks in advance for reading this.

 

[maillet282]

Welcome from Ontario Canada.

cant really comment much on your questions other than the one for the hitch. You can add a trailer hitch or get an aftermarket bumper with built in recovery points like a shrock/ hefty fabworks/ max gear bumpers. That are a bit more expensive but IMHO look better

 

[Prime]

1) that's a bit strange. I don't know how easy it'll be to remove the trim with the hatch closed. But you have two screws in the bump where the factory first aid kit was, and two in the handle that you'd use to pull the hatch down. From there it all pops off.

2) I'm a big fan of Cooper tires. AT3s are good tires. If you have Discount Tire where they have a Cooper ATP which has been a fantastic tire.

3) Nope. You're running wires. The base audio system has everything run to the head unit. The steering wheel controls are doable, but not easily. You need the button kit, new clock spring, a steering wheel puller, and a lot of time to get it right.

4) you can get a hitch online with everything. Or, upgrade the bumper to a steel bumper one built in.

 

[Shane_Anigans]

Welcome from Ontario Canada.

cant really comment much on your questions other than the one for the hitch. You can add a trailer hitch or get an aftermarket bumper with built in recovery points like a shrock/ hefty fabworks/ max gear bumpers. That are a bit more expensive but IMHO look better

New bumpers are on the list of things I'd like to do, just not immediately. I do like the looks of those.

2) I'm a big fan of Cooper tires. AT3s are good tires. If you have Discount Tire where they have a Cooper ATP which has been a fantastic tire.

3) Nope. You're running wires. The base audio system has everything run to the head unit. The steering wheel controls are doable, but not easily. You need the button kit, new clock spring, a steering wheel puller, and a lot of time to get it right.

2) Thanks for the tip, I'll have a look at those Cooper ATP as well.

3) That's sort of what I figured on both counts. Alpine makes a headunit with at Double-DIN face but a single-DIN chassis behind it that you can mount one of their 45wx4 mini-amps to, so I may end up going that route for simplicity's sake. And yeah, it was too much to hope for that they built every Xterra with the same wiring and it was just a matter of installing some buttons or a new steering wheel. One thing I do miss about my old GTI was coding/activating new features on all the CAN-bus modules. Guess I got spoiled.

 

[Shane_Anigans]

1) that's a bit strange. I don't know how easy it'll be to remove the trim with the hatch closed. But you have two screws in the bump where the factory first aid kit was, and two in the handle that you'd use to pull the hatch down. From there it all pops off.

Quite easy, as it turned out. Once I removed the 7mm bolts behind the 1st aid kit and the 10mm bolts/screws in the handle, it's just a matter of popping the push-clips on the top and any on the bottom that you can, and then just grab the straps for the 1st aid kit and pull. Now I just need to figure out why the latch won't open, despite the cable being attached and both ends and seemingly pulling on something.

 

[Xterrorista]

Quite easy, as it turned out. Once I removed the 7mm bolts behind the 1st aid kit and the 10mm bolts/screws in the handle, it's just a matter of popping the push-clips on the top and any on the bottom that you can, and then just grab the straps for the 1st aid kit and pull. Now I just need to figure out why the latch won't open, despite the cable being attached and both ends and seemingly pulling on something.

On the door looking out from inside, about 7" up and 6-7" to the right of the left corner of the door you'll see the handle/latch assembly. There's a horizontal bar, steel, silver or gray in appearance, that you need to pull to the left towards the door frame closest to you. That will allow you to open the hatch and gain access to r&r the assembly.

I'm in the midst of the same repair. Holler at me if that doesn't work for you.

 

[Xterrorista]

BTW, welcome to the site from north TX. Lots of great folks and tons of info around here..

 

[XterraRising]

For a receiver, spend a few bucks more and get the OEM one. It has the bracket for the plug welded to it. Also, most the aftermarket receivers seem to have lower tongue weight ratings than factory. Comes with hardware. PN: 999T5-KY500

Nissan Genuine Accessories 999T5-KY500 Class III Tow Hitch Receiver, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B9ZKCQ...abc_VWJVYT08VJ4HNAB3HX1M?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

You’ll need the relay kit too. PN: 999T8-KR020

Genuine Nissan Parts - Authentic Catalog Part from The Factory (999T8-KR020) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B9ZKDM...abc_RAV1Z08YBBJACG5R0MD1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Gen X]

I just installed the Alpine iLX-W650 yesterday, it’s one of the double DIN shallow depth radios you mentioned. I’ll get the KTA-450 amp that mounts with a bracket to the back of the radio when Crutchfield has them back in stock. They are available on Amazon but Crutchfield usually sends all the extra parts and pieces needed for install.

I put new Kicker speakers all around as well. Used the factory wiring. Even without the amp it is a huge upgrade, I am happy with it.

 

[Shane_Anigans]

On the door looking out from inside, about 7" up and 6-7" to the right of the left corner of the door you'll see the handle/latch assembly. There's a horizontal bar, steel, silver or gray in appearance, that you need to pull to the left towards the door frame closest to you. That will allow you to open the hatch and gain access to r&r the assembly.

I'm in the midst of the same repair. Holler at me if that doesn't work for you.

Thanks, I'll give that a try. The cable that goes from the handle to the latch seems to be making something move, but the latch itself won't open. The horizontal bar/rod that you mention is the one that connects the lock cylinder to the latch assembly, right?

 

[Shane_Anigans]

I just installed the Alpine iLX-W650 yesterday, it’s one of the double DIN shallow depth radios you mentioned. I’ll get the KTA-450 amp that mounts with a bracket to the back of the radio when Crutchfield has them back in stock. They are available on Amazon but Crutchfield usually sends all the extra parts and pieces needed for install.

I put new Kicker speakers all around as well. Used the factory wiring. Even without the amp it is a huge upgrade, I am happy with it.

I've got an older version of that amp laying around. I was looking at that same radio a few days ago, and it looks like you got the last one! With that in mind, I wonder if it's possible to just wire it inline with a different brand of radio. I can't imagine there's anything Alpine-specific about it, aside from the connectors at either end of the wiring harness.

 

[Xterrorista]

Thanks, I'll give that a try. The cable that goes from the handle to the latch seems to be making something move, but the latch itself won't open. The horizontal bar/rod that you mention is the one that connects the lock cylinder to the latch assembly, right?

IIRC, yes. It's the only bare rod in that area I believe. I can't remember offhand who but someone has some good photos of this area with the panel off.

 

[Shane_Anigans]

IIRC, yes. It's the only bare rod in that area I believe. I can't remember offhand who but someone has some good photos of this area with the panel off.

The other thing I forgot to mention is that there seems to be something lodged in the lock cylinder which makes it impossible to insert the key or turn it. So, I wonder if the root of the problem is the fact that the lock isn't physically turning when the actuator engages, and I've just been pulling the handle on a locked hatch.

 

[Xterrorista]

The other thing I forgot to mention is that there seems to be something lodged in the lock cylinder which makes it impossible to insert the key or turn it. So, I wonder if the root of the problem is the fact that the lock isn't physically turning when the actuator engages, and I've just been pulling the handle on a locked hatch.

Same, the lock is frozen due to years of dust. Mine's the same way. I plan to rob the part/s from a junkyard just haven't gotten around to it.

 

[Shane_Anigans]

Same, the lock is frozen due to years of dust. Mine's the same way. I plan to rob the part/s from a junkyard just haven't gotten around to it.

I'm wondering what happens if I were to simply disconnect the rod from the lock and leave it that way. The electronic actuator should still work to lock the hatch, I just couldn't use the manual lock, yeah? (I mean, I can't use it anyway since the key won't go in, and how often would I really need it?)

 

[Xterrorista]

I'm wondering what happens if I were to simply disconnect the rod from the lock and leave it that way. The electronic actuator should still work to lock the hatch, I just couldn't use the manual lock, yeah? (I mean, I can't use it anyway since the key won't go in, and how often would I really need it?)

You got me, I haven't gotten that far but you've sparked my interest to tackle it soon. You outta start a build thread and track your progress on your rig as you tinker with it..

 

[Shane_Anigans]

You got me, I haven't gotten that far but you've sparked my interest to tackle it soon. You outta start a build thread and track your progress on your rig as you tinker with it..

...and that's how the addiction always starts. I may do that, but my near-term plan is mostly just repairs, new tires, and some small upgrades. The final iteration will probably be "off-road dilettante," complete with some stickers on the back to troll all the local JK Wrangler mall-crawlers.

 

[Shane_Anigans]

You got me, I haven't gotten that far but you've sparked my interest to tackle it soon. You outta start a build thread and track your progress on your rig as you tinker with it..

Well sir, I owe you a beer. Once I disconnected the lock rod from the frozen lock cylinder (by pulling up on the pink plastic retainer shown in the pic below), I was able to open the hatch with the handle, and lock/unlock it with the remote. It seems that the cylinder was the culprit, and not the latch mechanism as I'd feared.

 

[Xterrorista]

Good deal