NMTerras
Suspension Lift
- Location
- New Mexico
Need to replace a lower ball joint, anyone have any ideas about which aftermarket brands/models are sturdiest?
Lower ball joints
- Thread starter NMTerras
- Start date
- Location
- S.Subs of Chicago, IL.
When I did my research, MOOG kept comming up. There's a thread somewhere where he switched his. Can't remember if it's here or the other site.
- Location
- Washington
I used Moog as well. They are greasable but you'll need a 90* grease gun fitting.
- Location
- Columbus OH
Moog are just fine, and have a lifetime warrenty that come with them.
- Location
- Greenville SC
I used Napa Chassis Parts, just make sure to get a japan or taiwan made one, the chinese made ones looked like junk. The one japan made one I was able to get a hold of was the best looking aftermarket replacement balljoint I have ever seen, unfortunately I couldn't find another one at the next 7 closest napa's.
NMTerras
Suspension Lift
- Location
- New Mexico
I grabbed a couple of moogs at O'Reilly's. One for the truck, one for the spare parts box...
- Location
- Washington
Now THAT wouldn't be a fun trail repair!
NMTerras
Suspension Lift
- Location
- New Mexico
<shudder> no, it would not
- Location
- Washington
I got mine from Rock Auto for less than $45 per. Even with shipping it was cheaper than Amazon, and WAY cheaper than Orielly.
NMTerras
Suspension Lift
- Location
- New Mexico
Yeah mine were a little more.
- Location
- Washington
Sounds like your Orielly is more reasonable than mine
NMTerras
Suspension Lift
- Location
- New Mexico
Maybe - I was trying to remember how much more. They might have been 59 each, which is more than a little more. Need to dig up the receipt...
- Location
- Washington
I just checked I payed $40.79 plus 5% off from a code on CX. they also sent me another 5% code I can give you but I don't know if you can double up.
NMTerras
Suspension Lift
- Location
- New Mexico
too late now! but thanks
NMTerras
Suspension Lift
- Location
- New Mexico
Anyone tried to use one of those balljoint pullers from harbour freight? Worth the 20 bucks?
- Location
- machesney park IL
I used their larger pickle fork to take it apart. But, honestly a assortment of large hammers and maybe a prybar is all you need. Their tierod press is worth every penny though when it comes to removing the tierods. I didn't find the ball joint press nessisary as the fitment into the arm isn't that tight. Couple light taps with a hammer sent mine off after removing that huge nut.
- Location
- Columbus OH
Just cut the old nut in half with a grinder, or cut off wheel. A slot across the top to release the nut, then a sharp smack with a ball peen hammer is all that it takes to get them out.
NMTerras
Suspension Lift
- Location
- New Mexico
hmmm - never had any problems removing the tie rods. Also, now that I have the AC UCAs I can unbolt, everything should be easier this time around with the ball joints
- Location
- machesney park IL
Right the job is easy with the unboltable upper bj. Hardest part is getting the CV out of the way. If you don't have issues with the tierods then I wouldn't worry about removing the lower ball joint. Plenty of meat to swing a hammer at.
- Location
- Washington
^^^I agree, the only thing I used a ball joint press on was the uppers (stock UCAs). Lowers came right out with a BFH after I cut them between the knuckle and LCA.
- Location
- Greenville SC
Lowers were a piece of cake for me. Took everything off the knuckle except the rotor (caliper, auto hub, cv, tie rods, and unbolted the upper bj) With the knuckle hanging from the lower bj and the big nut taken off, it just took a couple whacks with a hammer and the weight of the knuckle did all the work pulling out the lower bj. Then it was a straight shot on the stud with a hammer to knock the balljoint out of the knuckle.
- Location
- Denver Adjacent
Holy old thread, batman!
What size is the huge nut on the lower balljoints and what is the torque specs for putting the replacements back in? I went through the FSM and the only thing it says about the lower balljoint is "replace upper link or lower link" & it gives me the torque specs on the castle nut. So I assume that means that Nissan wants you to replace the entire control arm instead of just a balljoint. Which is retarded. :groggy:
I noticed last weekend when rotating my tires that both my lowers have shredded boots. So I'll be tackling that at the same time I do the UCAs & T-Bars.
What size is the huge nut on the lower balljoints and what is the torque specs for putting the replacements back in? I went through the FSM and the only thing it says about the lower balljoint is "replace upper link or lower link" & it gives me the torque specs on the castle nut. So I assume that means that Nissan wants you to replace the entire control arm instead of just a balljoint. Which is retarded. :groggy:
I noticed last weekend when rotating my tires that both my lowers have shredded boots. So I'll be tackling that at the same time I do the UCAs & T-Bars.
NMTerras
Suspension Lift
- Location
- New Mexico
I dont remember what size that nut was, other than it was bigger than anything I had. Like, 26, 28 maybe? Not sure. I ended up using a big-ass crescent on it, and tightening it down as best I could, by feel. Not a great answer, nor a great idea, but that's what I did...
