Cptpackrat's 01 build "EMMA"

Cptpackrat

Bumpers Installed
Location
Gillette WY
Minor hiccup, but I got it resolved. Ordered a new tie rod end and bung since I ruined the original. I recieved it today and managed to order the wrong TPI bung... Called Ruffstuff and they are getting me the correct one early next week so I can resolve the mistake.
 

Cptpackrat

Bumpers Installed
Location
Gillette WY
Tried to push these in last night and took an hour to ALMOST do 1... packed up and brought them to work and used our little 20T press. Made life REALLY easy.

D2A16231-C917-4225-9687-7D84FC5442A3.jpeg
 

Cptpackrat

Bumpers Installed
Location
Gillette WY
I'll take some pictures of my junk with a drilled stock arm with it's relation to the Calmini bracket when I get a chance. My turn radius is limited by the throw of the stock pitman arm/steering box; I don't hit the steering stops on ether right or left turn when the steering is centered...

Could you go grab me a pic or two? I got the new pitman arm today and just eyeballing it, I think it will clear... but barely.
6B20F5AE-F0A5-4483-A19B-AA3D58737B53.jpeg
 

Bklyn.X

Skid Plates
Moderator
Supporting Member
Founding Member
Location
Brooklyn, NY
Dude. Wrong forum.
...I disagree. I might get banned but here it is, my junk;

Pitman++2.jpg


Pitman++4.jpg



I think that Toyota pitman arm will slip onto the Nissan steering box shaft without having to file the “key”. You’ll just have to determine “center” without the key.

It might clear okay. The Nissan OEM is 5” center of sector shaft to center of linkage end contact point. Your Toyota arm is 5.825" according to the Sky Off Road site you linked to.

There’s about 1.25” clearance between my drop pitman and the track bar bracket that should get a bit wider as the linkage moves up with the flat arm.

That said; from what I understand the more in line (parallel) your drag link and track bar are the less bump steer problems you’ll have. This is one of the problems I’m going to need to address now with my ¾ heim steering (I need to raise the axle end of the track bar) and in the future when I try and go to “high steer”.

My thought with the information you’ve provided is that with the “Y” link steering you’re planning to use you might be better off using your stock Nissan arm.

I admit to knowing nothing, having no engineering expertise and doing this stuff as a hobby but that’s how it dopes out for me.
 
Last edited:

Cptpackrat

Bumpers Installed
Location
Gillette WY
Good to know. The new arm from center the large hole to furthest outside is 6.5”. Im gonna try it and see, worst case senario I send it back and get the 3/4” droppped one which SHOULD clear even better
 

Cptpackrat

Bumpers Installed
Location
Gillette WY
Painted satin black over the POR on the axle. Keep the UV off it a little. Also touched up the radius arms from pushing the bushings in. Sprayed PB blaster on everything that is being removed for the SAS and just general prep. 7D5301CD-91FC-43DF-AB52-6B7527741C50.jpeg85682F1B-A1C5-42B9-B348-793D9CDE6D74.jpeg
 

Cptpackrat

Bumpers Installed
Location
Gillette WY
Brought my tierod and drag link back into school. I cut the old bung off and working on getting the new one put in. The drag link I only put 1 bung in as I will have to cut to size once I have the measurement...
2920EDA0-A46E-422C-94EC-2417BBB6AEA0.jpeg 80DEE1C8-C5A9-4660-98DA-5BF1EA99134F.jpeg
 

Bklyn.X

Skid Plates
Moderator
Supporting Member
Founding Member
Location
Brooklyn, NY
I had the same trouble. I know hind sight is 20/20 but after struggling with the first side I was thinking if we dropped the LCA off the spindle before detaching the UCA on the second side; torsion bar helping pull it down it might have been easier.

We just left it all together dropped the LCA/spindle as one piece...my buddy plasma cut the whole deal out.

Anywho, if you take the caliper and CV out of there it might be easier to swing a BFH onto a pickle fork.

Now that I’m thinking about it…I broke my buddies pickle fork hammering on the first side. Gotta replace dat MF'r…man I suck...
 

Cptpackrat

Bumpers Installed
Location
Gillette WY
No turning back now! Both LCAs were pulled tonight, ended up cutting the one up and the other actually came apart with no hassle. Its full on hovermode now. Tomorrow I am gonna start pulling crossmembers and swapping the Calmini ones in. Saturday I will get the bump stops and stuff cut off and roll the axle under the truck. Should have it on its own weight and driving by sunday
 

Cptpackrat

Bumpers Installed
Location
Gillette WY
Touchdown! Couple small things to fix and change, but for now we celebrate... Im 6 shots in on jameson right now and happy as hell my rig is sitting on the new setup.


758DB5B3-920A-4404-86A1-88928FBDED8F.jpeg F92FDA2B-9307-4966-9E0A-D574D2F4467E.jpeg 1253BD86-FD38-4236-BDD1-F281F45005C6.jpeg
 

Bushnut

First Fill-Up (of many)
has anyone ever swapped a pathfinder R50 5 link into the back of an X? I sure did love the ride of coils.

very nice work btw. sure is nice to have buddys lend a helping hand.
 

Cptpackrat

Bumpers Installed
Location
Gillette WY
Went for test drive, steering is jacked up but I think I have the fix figured out. Flexes great probably get a little more out of it with 4wd and the steering linkage fixed. Overall pretty happy, honna spend the next few weeks getting small stuff fixed and dialed in.
FF16356A-E652-4547-AF23-BD6796744966.jpeg 23C50507-524A-46E2-9614-0C6F0B38D3EA.jpeg CBAFEABC-493E-41C4-9203-B559D047EFC6.jpeg EDDB7175-5D64-4EE9-B7ED-E3D0DC47D241.jpeg
 

BEEFY

I Smile when Gasoline Can Freeze
Great job. Feels nice to get it on its own weight again i bet.
Is the steering issue because of the tie rod flip. Are going to move the axle or frame side of the track bar, or try changing pitman arms.
 

Cptpackrat

Bumpers Installed
Location
Gillette WY
Great job. Feels nice to get it on its own weight again i bet.
Is the steering issue because of the tie rod flip. Are going to move the axle or frame side of the track bar, or try changing pitman arms.

Sooo what I have been told since I used an above the knuckle TRE the drag link bolts in from the front. This causes it to cross over the tie rod and cause contact. The remedy is to use and under the knuckle TRE which will cause the drag link to bolt in from the rear and no longer cross the tie rod. I ordered one and should have it hopefully this week. Im gonna try to drive the truck very little until I get this done as I reeeaaally dont want to cause any worn or broken parts
 

BEEFY

I Smile when Gasoline Can Freeze
Sooo what I have been told since I used an above the knuckle TRE the drag link bolts in from the front. This causes it to cross over the tie rod and cause contact. The remedy is to use and under the knuckle TRE which will cause the drag link to bolt in from the rear and no longer cross the tie rod. I ordered one and should have it hopefully this week. Im gonna try to drive the truck very little until I get this done as I reeeaaally dont want to cause any worn or broken parts

Interesting. Hopefully that works. Is it death wobble that you are getting or something else
 

Cptpackrat

Bumpers Installed
Location
Gillette WY
So initial thoughts on the SAS while drivig around. The road manners are pretty good, still a little weeble wobbly but thats because I havent gotten an alignnment yet. Rides great and the custom valving is awesome. I need to fix the brakes as they are awful but this is common with the waggy axles on the stock MC
 

Riz98

Test Drive
Location
lemoore, ca
Did you get the pre load on the coilovers figured out? I was talking to you on FaceBook about it. I also have the GM 1 ton steering and have the drag link behind the tie rod for the same reason. Mine might barely touch together still at full lock but nothing that I can notice while driving and no damage has come of it.
 
Top