choking out low idle
- Thread starter AZhiAZiAM
- Start date
- Location
- Smyrna, TN
If not distributor or MAF, check your Coolant Temp Sensor. $20 fix and taked 5-10min. That's what was wrong with my Pathy the whole time I had it. I put over $1000 into it trying to get it to crank consistently, and it wound up being the CTS.
- Location
- Morrison, CO
Are there any lights coming on at all? Like the Check Engine Light?
Try this and see if it runs better.
Start the engine and let it idle. Pull the plug on the MAF with the engine running. If it dies, start it up and see if it idles normally (or close to it). It will only rev up to around 1500rpm or so, but don't worry about it. If it starts up fairly normally and seems to be better, then clean or replace the MAF. If it doesn't change, look at your fuel level sending unit.
Pull the right rear seat bottom cushion out. Unbolt the plate underneath that cushion and pull the connectors off the sending unit. Now look inside where the connectors were plugged in and see if there's any corrosion on the inside. If it's green, it's done and needs replaced. If it's clear, then look at the distributor next.
Pull the cap off and wiggle the rotor back and forth. Not in a circle, but to and from you in a straight line. Is there some play? If there's a hair's bit of play, I wouldn't worry too much. If there's a bunch of play, replace the bearing in the dizzy. If the play isn't bad, then look at the coolant temp sensor.
Pull the connector off the sensor with two wires. The single prong male connector is for the gauge, the two wired one is the one for the computer. Look down inside and see if there's any corrosion inside. If not, then you'll have to check it with an ohm meter to see if it's reading right. At that point, download the FSM (in the CEL section you'll find the link to it) and use that to check the resistance.
Try this and see if it runs better.
Start the engine and let it idle. Pull the plug on the MAF with the engine running. If it dies, start it up and see if it idles normally (or close to it). It will only rev up to around 1500rpm or so, but don't worry about it. If it starts up fairly normally and seems to be better, then clean or replace the MAF. If it doesn't change, look at your fuel level sending unit.
Pull the right rear seat bottom cushion out. Unbolt the plate underneath that cushion and pull the connectors off the sending unit. Now look inside where the connectors were plugged in and see if there's any corrosion on the inside. If it's green, it's done and needs replaced. If it's clear, then look at the distributor next.
Pull the cap off and wiggle the rotor back and forth. Not in a circle, but to and from you in a straight line. Is there some play? If there's a hair's bit of play, I wouldn't worry too much. If there's a bunch of play, replace the bearing in the dizzy. If the play isn't bad, then look at the coolant temp sensor.
Pull the connector off the sensor with two wires. The single prong male connector is for the gauge, the two wired one is the one for the computer. Look down inside and see if there's any corrosion inside. If not, then you'll have to check it with an ohm meter to see if it's reading right. At that point, download the FSM (in the CEL section you'll find the link to it) and use that to check the resistance.