Calmini SAS kit question

yellowbug

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
Ga
So after nXm2 I was given the approval to sas my rig.

My question is do I have to use a d44 axle out of a 80-85 Wagoneer or can I use any d44 out of any model jeep or similar width vehicle. Also do I need to buy the kit or can I fab most of it my self?
 

TheFauxFox

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
Location
Huntsville, AL
So after nXm2 I was given the approval to sas my rig.

My question is do I have to use a d44 axle out of a 80-85 Wagoneer or can I use any d44 out of any model jeep or similar width vehicle. Also do I need to buy the kit or can I fab most of it my self?

It is recommended to use the Waggy axle, but avoid the ones with vacuum disconnect ('83-'85). For the most part, you can use just about any axle with a driver-side drop diff, such as that from older F250s. The only thing with the Waggy axle (only one I have experience with) is that you may need to run spacers to even out the WMS with the rear if you stick with the H233b and/or you want to keep running 15".

As for the kit, you definitely do not have to use the kit. The benefits of using the kit are having parts ready to weld on, limited measuring/geometry calculations, and the rest is bolt on; however, as you've probably seen, you pay a premium. There are plenty of people who custom fab their own parts. There are a large number of options to get other bits and pieces though.

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/
http://www.trail-gear.com/
http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/default_4x4.aspx

and the list goes on.
 
Last edited:

midget

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
what cheer,Iowa
I havent personally seen the design but I would be willing to bet since its a radius arm design you could use it on any d44. Personally I would go for a high pinion axle to keep the driveshaft up and out the way.

The trail gear kit 3 link kit is alot more bang for the buck than the Calmini kit but its not a bolt on by any means. Also Ive read that the Pathfinder front leaf kit is pretty much a direct fit as well on first gen Xs. Really it depends on your comfort level when it comes to fabbing if you are comfortable with your welding get the calmini kit. If you dont mind laying down dimes its cheaper and stronger in most cases to go the other routes.
 
Last edited:

yellowbug

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
Ga
High pinion sound like its for me. I am comfortable fabbing up almost anything. If I can't do something I have friends to help.

I would like a 3 link I only mentioned the calmini kit because it is the only one I know of.

I am new to the sas so any advice would be appreciated.
 

yellowbug

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
Ga
I like the 3 link better. I will not start this until January or February so I have time for research and questions.
 

TheFauxFox

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
Location
Huntsville, AL
I like the 3 link better. I will not start this until January or February so I have time for research and questions.

The big few decisions, in my opinion and not any particular order, are:
1) Axle Type
2) Type of Suspension: Coilovers, vs Leafs, etc
3) Tire Size + Gearing (because nobody wants to run 31's on a SAS)

Then its just a matter of which long distance phone company you pick.
 

yellowbug

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
Ga
1 Dana 44
2 coil overs
3 37's so I want my gears in the mid 5's

I have thought a lot about this and have done little research but I know what I want the end result to be.
I have only decided to post it now because I finally got the approval from the one that matters.
 

midget

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
what cheer,Iowa
If your wanting to go up to 37s id pull the h233b rearend out in favor for a 9" or some other flavor of rear axle. The stock rearend is plenty strong but its just so expensive to regear & lock you actually save money by swapping it out.
 

midget

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
what cheer,Iowa
Well you could theres nothing stopping you but a 9" is cheaper,stronger, and pretty much better in a every aspect. The best 3 options would be something like a yota rear axle if your wanting to keep the 6 lug
9" ford for a simple strong option with enough gearing/ locker options to make this the best option
14bolt corporate chevy prolly one of the strongest options and lockers are on the cheaper scale but gears are higher priced than a 9" and its a massive boat anchor unless you shave it.

I personally run a d44hp and d60rear because Im hoping to later upgrade to a d60 front and its matched front and rear from a 78 Ford F250.
 
Last edited:

yellowbug

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
Ga
Well I have been looking on cl and I have seen a lot of d44/ 9" and dana 44/ 14 bolt for sale.

I have also done a few diff gear price comparisons. My other thing. Probably in 2014 after the sas is finished and broken in I want to get the rock crawler gears for the t-case. Again calmini is the only company I know of that carries these.
 

yellowbug

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
Ga
Cool but I'm A long way away from that so for now I'm just going to research the sas. So far through most of my research everyone either complains they shoul have had different third members or they want new t-case gears.

Everything else is seems to suit people well.
 
4

4wheelparts.com

Guest
Hey guys! I to, am interested in seeing more Xs SAS'd! We recently modded a cherokee at our shop with newer d44s front and rear axles from a Jeep JK rubicon with 44 axles.
The only reason i bring this up, is it is wider than the regular D30 or D44. Parts are readily availible for JKs. In the new gear books, the Jeep JK has all new D30 and D44 axles.
its called the JK D44.

G2 axles carry a full line of these axles ready to rock with any locker you choose, ready to install with minor mods for your X!
just some food for thought to chew on.... may be a option.. let me know if i can help.

http://www.4wheelparts.com/Drivetra...e-Axles-And-Third-Members.aspx?t_c=12&t_s=475
 

yellowbug

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
Ga
I was looking at the g2 axles last night but they are a little out of my league. I am going to probably rebuild a set of axles and will deffinetly hit you up.
 

midget

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
what cheer,Iowa
5.38s are great for 37s and the lower tcase gears would be great but idk if I would go that route. Ive heard stak hasa tcase thatll bolt up but I havent found the build thred that inspired me in quite awhile. It was a first gen x on leaves,37s,and slider boxes with a stak tcase.
 

yellowbug

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
Ga
I have a m/t so would it still be a direct bolt up? And another questions for third member gearing. Are they all the same for different axles like number wise? For instance is a 4.88 in a d44 also a 4.88 made for the h233b axles? And do the gear numbers have to match front and rear or can they be close? So if these are noob questions. I understand how the work in relation to each other just not making a dramatic change like this.
 

TheFauxFox

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
Location
Huntsville, AL
Are they all the same for different axles like number wise? For instance is a 4.88 in a d44 also a 4.88 made for the h233b axles? And do the gear numbers have to match front and rear or can they be close? So if these are noob questions. I understand how the work in relation to each other just not making a dramatic change like this.

They are close. H233b's, in our X's, come with either the 4.6 or 4.9 ratio. If you swap in a D44, and hypothetically keep the H233b, and want to run 5.13s, you will probably match the rear with 5.14 for the H233b [link] since this is the ring and pinion made for our axles. You can have a little bit of error in this, but you wouldn't want to run 5.13s and then 5.38s.
 
Last edited:

midget

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
what cheer,Iowa
I only know one guy that has narrowed a d44 for a rig & he hates it. If anyone talks about narrowing an axle JR will run them down & talk there ear off until they change there mind.

The biggest complaint is if you break an axleshaft you cant just grab a spare. You have to send out a shaft & wait for it to be cut & resplined. Not to mention the actual cost of narrowing an axle,if you cant do it yourself, is high as hell.
 

yellowbug

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
Ga
The reason I showed that particular one is because he cut it down to use waggy axle shafts. So he has a Dana hp44 that uses Waggoner axle shaft. If I went that route that is what I'd do.
 

yellowbug

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
Ga
Awesome link. I went to his web site and read through that A little. I like what he did with his axle.
 

02Xterra

Wheeling
Location
Central VA
5.38s are great for 37s and the lower tcase gears would be great but idk if I would go that route. Ive heard stak hasa tcase thatll bolt up but I havent found the build thred that inspired me in quite awhile. It was a first gen x on leaves,37s,and slider boxes with a stak tcase.

I'm pretty sure that was a guy over on CX.. "tuff" was his username or was part of it. I know he sas'd and had slider boxes on the rear axle.. haven't seen that thread in a few years though
 
Top