!. chock the rear wheels and jack up the front corner of the truck
2. remove wheel on the side that you want to replace
3. loosten jam nuts while everthingtistill connected
4. remove cotter pins, and castle nuts.
5. use pickle fork, or rod end press to remove rod end from steering knuckle.
if replacing the rod ends repeate on the inner rod end.
6. unscrew the rod ends off of the adjuster, and place the jam nuts in a safe place, you may need these later.
7. put a little anti-seize in the threads of the new adjuster and thread the jam nuts back on, followed by the rod end.
8. get them as straight as possable and go get an alignment(after you put the tire back on that is).
I'll add to that, you can use a tape measure to make sure you're close enough to straight to drive it to an alignment shop. When you put the new adjuster in, hold it up next to the tie rod assembly on the other side to get an idea of how far in to thread the adjuster. Get it to where it looks similar, then install the assembly. Before you completely tighten the jam nuts, put the wheel back on, and use a tape measure between the front edge of your tires, and then take the same measurement between the rear edges. Ideally, you will be about 1/4 inch further apart in the back (tires slightly toed in). You can make slight adjustments with the adjuster (duh) and then tighten up the jam nuts and head off to the alignment shop. I had to do this in MOAB, and drove home with no problems with the ballpark alignment. I also was able to get the tie rod out without a pickle fork or press, but its easier on some trucks than others and I live in a no-humidity climate. Anyway, in a pinch you can thread the nut down to where it is flush with the stud, and then use a deadblow or BFH to pop the ends out of their sockets - just be careful and don't go overboard with the hammering. Caveat - I'm sure this isn't the best way to do it, but it worked for me, and was done with only basic tools in my trail kit.
Finally, ditto what granitex said about spares
