Prime'z X

[Prime]

Also, the wife came home while I was finishing up. She asked what I was working on. I pointed to the corner. She asked why? I just kind of stared at her and she said, "because lights?"

/she gets it
//or at least that's what I tell myself

 

[Chetter]

That looks awesome! Mine could definitely use some paint in a few of those places too.

 

[OffRdX]

Nice man, I love the cupholders.

 

[Tay-Lo]

For the LEDs underneath I did mine more of run and zip tie where possible.

I'm debating putting a short strip under the back just to finish the look.....But I'm very happy with the look and function of them.

 

[Prime]

Yeah. That's what I plan on doing. They have the 3m adhesive on the back. But. No. That won't stay stuck.

 

[Tay-Lo]

Yeah underneath I didn't even try and use it....most of it is just hanging

 

[OffRdX]

It works pretty well if you prep the area and it is smooth and flat. I was able to run mine on the frame and body above the sliders. After putting the strips on I caked on clear silicone to seal up the edges to prevent dirt from getting in. It's been about 3 weeks, they are holding up well so far. Even after that crazy rain we had a couple weeks ago, I hit every puddle no problems lol.

 

[Prime]

Loading lights, here I come!

Really digging the black PCB on these. It'll look a lot better since they'll be visible during the day.

 

[OffRdX]

Loading lights? Are they going on the hatch tied into the dome light circuit or something? I agree, the black is nice.

 

[Prime]

Something like that

 

[dhyde79]

Loading lights? Are they going on the hatch tied into the dome light circuit or something? I agree, the black is nice.

I'm thinking on the interior trim not on the plastics...it's where I'd put em if I were adding some...

 

[OffRdX]

Cool idea for sure. I have LED replacement bulbs already in my dome lights, they do a pretty good job. As cheap as these LED strips are though, can you really have too many??? I think not!!!

 

[Prime]

My thoughts exactly.

 

[Prime]

I'm actually going to mount them to the lip of the hatch so when it's open they fire straight down.

 

[dhyde79]

I'm actually going to mount them to the lip of the hatch so when it's open they fire straight down.

Hmm....photographically guided explanation may be in order...

 

[OffRdX]

Sweet, I like it. Are they going to be switched or tied into the rear dome light circuit?

 

[Prime]

Hmm....photographically guided explanation may be in order...

You know there will be.

Sweet, I like it. Are they going to be switched or tied into the rear dome light circuit?

Both. I'm going to switch them in the hatch area. The text illumination of the switch will be tied to the dome light, but they will be tapped off of my power distribution in the back of the truck.

Also found out that the Carling switches have a 20A rating on them. So no relay needed.

 

[OffRdX]

Nope, I didn't relay my lights .


Sent from my portable electronic device.

 

[Prime]

It begins.

 

[dhyde79]

It begins.

ABSOLUTELY YES! (except that'd interfere with my HAM antenna)

 

[Chetter]

Very nice!!!

Btw, your inbox is full....lol.

 

[Prime]

I'm trying to wrap my head around the wiring. I need to dig out the FSM and get a full schematic of how the dome light circuit is wired. BECAUSE! I just thought that if I can make it so they automatically come on when ONLY the hatch is opened, then I don't need a switch. If using the contact sensor in the door causes the lights to come on whenever the dome light is lit, then it needs to be switched.

 

[Chetter]

So you're wanting it to come on only when the hatch opens, not any of the other doors right? I'd definitely be interested in that setup.

 

[Prime]

Yeah. It'd be REALLY easy if I didn't have power locks. Because everything just runs straight to battery. But w/ the power locks it has an "Entrance Control System" which is a fancy way of saying "Computer" that controls the dome lights. The switch in the latch is just that, a switch. However, with the computer in play, one side goes to ground back to the computer, the other side is coming from the computer. So I don't think I can tap into it, and I definitely can't apply voltage through it. Which makes me sad. Its EASY if I take the hatch out of the regular dome light circuit, but I don't want to do that either.

 

[Chetter]

I know it completely bypasses most of what's already there but what about actually adding a plunger-type switch in the hatch frame just for the added lights???

 

[Prime]

I thought about that. We'll see.

 

[caseycamby]

I just soldered the wires straight to the contacts on the top of the dome light.. Safe.... Maybe. Maybe not. But it works! Haha

 

[Prime]

But that's just it. I don't want them to always come on with the dome light. Because I don't go into the trunk all the time.

 

[caseycamby]

I gotcha. I'm sure you'll come up with something good. I'm wiring stupid

 

[Edodrian]

Could you do some sort of mercury type switch and just tie into the dome light circuit? Kinda like the under hood light switches Ford uses?

That way you would have power and it would only work with hatch open.

Sent from a unknown electronic device

 

[Prime]

Now that's an idea!

 

[Prime]

A quick Google search shows that EVERY GOVERNMENT HATES MERCURY SWITCHES!

 

[dhyde79]

I'm trying to wrap my head around the wiring. I need to dig out the FSM and get a full schematic of how the dome light circuit is wired. BECAUSE! I just thought that if I can make it so they automatically come on when ONLY the hatch is opened, then I don't need a switch. If using the contact sensor in the door causes the lights to come on whenever the dome light is lit, then it needs to be switched.

So, does a 1st gen not work like a 2nd does? Cargo area dome doesn't come on unless the back hatch is opened (if memory serves). Maybe with the rear doors too...I'll look tomorrow night for you...I'm already in bed...

 

[Prime]

When you unlock the doors, or open ANY door. Both dome lights come on. They are not segregated depending on what end of the truck is opened.

I thought of a problem w/ a Mercury switch. In the case of wheeling, the mercury could be bounce around and trigger the lights. Also, because of the load capacity of most mercury switches, I'd have to run a relay for these. Which seems like ridiculous overkill and more of a PITA to wire.

 

[Prime]

After further discovery into this wiring, and reading the FSM, I seems as though the computer just senses ground from the switch. So in theory, if I tap that ground AT the switch, I should be able to use it as the ground for the lights. I'll have to try it. And hope it doesn't burn out my entry computer. Which would suck.

The FSM reads:

With rear door LH/RH and/or back door open and the front/rear room lamp switch in the DOOR position, ground is supplied
to smart entrance control unit terminal 3 (with vehicle security system) or terminal 2 (without vehicle security system)
through rear door switch LH/RH and/or back door switch terminal + and
to front/rear room lamp terminal DR
through smart entrance control unit terminal 31
through smart entrance control unit terminal 43 and 64
through body grounds M14 and M68.


 

[Edodrian]

The grounds all tie together at the entrance module correct? So it just sees a door is open somewhere. I still believe a hood switch would work, don't they make them with weights instead of mercury? I'm sure that would work. And with wheeling the doors would be shut so no activation on the LEDs unless hatch is up to cause switch to complete the circuit.

Sent from a unknown electronic device

 

[Prime]

The grounds all tie together at the entrance module correct? So it just sees a door is open somewhere.

Yeah, that's how I'm reading it. If you look at the diagram I posted, the grounds that are on the switch are simply routed back to the body somewhere. Apparently there isn't a good place to ground on the hatch itself, so the grounds are run back through the loom and to D404 and D402 which are simply body grounds.

SO, if I tap the hot from my power distribution in the old jack house, and then tie the ground to that one on the switch, that should work just fine.

 

[OffRdX]

Awesome!


Sent from my portable electronic device.

 

[Nd4SpdSe]

After further discovery into this wiring, and reading the FSM, I seems as though the computer just senses ground from the switch. So in theory, if I tap that ground AT the switch, I should be able to use it as the ground for the lights. I'll have to try it. And hope it doesn't burn out my entry computer. Which would suck.

I attempted exactly this to tap my ground for my relay for my heated mirror into the ground trigger for the rear defrost, and I ended up frying that circuit in the Entrance Control Module. Either the circuit is really sensitive to extra loads (like really, the 60mA from a relay coil?) or it may of back-fed power into the ECM looking for another ground and blew it. If you do, I'd look into putting in a diode so that it doesn't happen if that is the case.

My question is, why don't you want it to turn on with the door lights/doors? It's not like you drive with the doors open. What's the big deal if that lights turns on when someone opens the doors rather than the hatch? Maybe if someone wants to turn on the dome light while driving it would turn on, but those are rare circumstances and you should only see a light glow.

 

[Prime]

Because. I'm difficult. It's just a finishing detail that I'd like to have. If I don't open the hatch, I don't want the loading lights.