Tre

ChiXterra

Wheeling
I read a thread that made it sound so easy to replace the TRE's/TRA's. Well, I need to replace mine in order to spare myself some time for my SAS. No problem, right? Well, I can't get the jam nuts to move. I even took the torch to them. PB Blast has already been used as well. So, anyone have any splendid ideas?
 

idratherbe

Skid Plates
Location
North Shore, MA
I replaced mine as a whole assembly. Took off inner and outer with the adjuster as one piece and replaced them with new inner, outer, and AC HD adjuster. My old ones were still OK so I kept them whole for emergency spares.
 

Silver dude

Sliders
Founding Member
Remove the tierod assembly. Put it in a vise or on a anvil. Use a bfh and smack the nuts really hard. Sometimes the blunt impact will jar loose the corrosion within the nut. Freeing the nut so it can be removed. Otherwise, the stock adjusters don't cost much of anything at the autoparts store. Also, remember to look at the way the threads go. Make sure your actually loosening and not tightening. One end of the adjuster is right hand thread and the other is left hand thread so make sure you take note.
 
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Silver dude

Sliders
Founding Member
Yeah pry up on them with a bar. While smacking the area where the pin sits. Hit the knuckle or centerlink not the actual tierod. Trying to cause reverberation in the metal surrounding the taper. Vibrating it loose. Takes a super hard SLAM! If it's the knuckle side you can fit a two jaw puller on the underside and pop it off.

Something like this...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tX7GVWcB-bg&feature=youtube_gdata_player
 
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ChiXterra

Wheeling
The ole' fashioned hammer worked this afternoon. I sprayed PB blast all over them last night, and they came right out. While I was in there, I also replaced the bushings in the idler arm with some from Bandit 4x4. My giant C-clamp was my friend this afternoon; it and a piece of wood helped me press in the bushings and the idler arm shaft.
 
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