SAS drive shafts

[BEEFY]

Im in the prosses of trying to get my sas done for the august long weekend. Im running into a small issue with the front drive shaft. It does bolt up but there is not enogh of the splines mating for my liking. Has anyone center cut there front shaft and sleved it internally or externally to lenghten it. And if so, what size tube did you use for doing it. And yes I know I should be getting a new shaft made with a double cardon joint. Just dont have the time or funds left to get that done in time.

 

[drbandkgb]

I know some shops will cut them and lengthen them..

This is the one major item I lack for my sas

 

[TheFauxFox]

Im in the prosses of trying to get my sas done for the august long weekend. Im running into a small issue with the front drive shaft. It does bolt up but there is not enogh of the splines mating for my liking. Has anyone center cut there front shaft and sleved it internally or externally to lenghten it. And if so, what size tube did you use for doing it. And yes I know I should be getting a new shaft made with a double cardon joint. Just dont have the time or funds left to get that done in time.

I've seen this done two ways. A Samurai buddy I know literally cut and weld extra splines onto the old drive shaft. I don't recommend it.

The second way I've seen is to make square drive shafts using existing joints. Cut and reweld the joints to some square tubing. From there, attempt to balance them the best you can.

Both of these ways are recommended ONLY for trail rigs/trailer queens.

 

[Deadpilot]

I'm just having a drive shaft build them for me. I'll give then a measurement and the old rear one and they will use the flange for the rear and front for the short shaft with yoke for the tc. And the front is has to be custom for me.
Oh and one day turn around

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

 

[Prime]

Yeah, your best bet will be a driveline shop. I'd suggest going custom and getting exactly what you want built by a pro. Unless you are a pro....but then....you wouldn't be asking.....

Once you get your axle mounted up take a measurement from the pinion flange to the output flange on the T-case, and then factor in how much length difference you need. If you can articulate the suspension both ways, that will give you the best measurement. From there, its a matter of taking those measurements (along w/ your U-Joint sizes) to a driveline shop and have them build you a real driveshaft.

 

[BEEFY]

Thanks for the imput guys. I was hoping someone had lenghten their own fron shaft and had the tube size that they had used for sleeving it. I have lenghtened and shortened other shaft for previous projects. I was just hoping to get the tube for sleeving before I cut the shaft.

Not sure how much it cost you guys to get shafts made, But here it starts at $500.00 and that is giving them your old shaft to use the yokes.

 

[TheFauxFox]

Thanks for the imput guys. I was hoping someone had lenghten their own fron shaft and had the tube size that they had used for sleeving it. I have lenghtened and shortened other shaft for previous projects. I was just hoping to get the tube for sleeving before I cut the shaft.

Not sure how much it cost you guys to get shafts made, But here it starts at $500.00 and that is giving them your old shaft to use the yokes.

Since this is out of the country, I don't know if the price would kill you, but have you checked with Tom Woods?

 

[BEEFY]

Tom woods shafts are the way to go. Still out of my current price range. Freight is in the $100-$130 range to get one up to me.

 

[xterraminator]

As Prime says you need to take the measurements and get the professionals lengthen it and balance it. If your going to a dana axle the front yoke on the stock driveshaft will have to be replaced. My back shaft had to be lengthened by 6".

 

[xterraminator]

In the back did you do a leaf over axle swap. If so there is a good chance you will need to lengthen the back shaft.

 

[BEEFY]

In the back I did a sprung over conversion. I ended up using a rear shaft fron a 99 ram 1500 and a conversion u-joint as the t-case end is 1310 and the diff is 1330. As for the front I am just going to run the stock shaft as is. The splines are still mostly engagedand it bolted up to the d44 with out a problem. I will get a 1310 double cordon joint and adapter for the t case end when i find one for the right price.