Manual Transmission Problems!!!

southernXterra

Bought an X
Location
Georgia
The issue started when it first got pretty cold and the clutch would make a whirling sound. However, after I towed a car (trailer and car weighed about 4500lbs) the transmission makes a loud whirling sound whenever the clutch is pressed in. It has done this when pressed at first start up and even after being driven for a few hours on the highway. I am not sure if the fluid is low. I changed the fluid a few months ago with valvoline gear fluid that is a gl 5 which Napa told me is a substitute for the gl4 that Nissan calls for the transmission. I really need to know what this may be because this is my daily vehicle.

Specs
2001 Xterra
V6 4x4 W/ Manual transmission
154,000 Miles
 

Muadeeb

Nissan al Gaib
Admin
Location
Dallas
Sounds like a bearing going out.

To check the fluid, park on a level surface, remove the fill plug, and stick your finger in. Fluid should be level with the hole.
 

04silverX

Bought an X
Location
Fort Mill SC
if it only makes the noise when you press the pedal I would say your Throwout bearing is starting to go. Means the trans should be good just have to take it out to get to it. I would do the whole clutch while your there.
 

southernXterra

Bought an X
Location
Georgia
Would changing the fluid possibly slow this down? I really need to drive this thing to get around since it is my only vehicle.

if it only makes the noise when you press the pedal I would say your Throwout bearing is starting to go. Means the trans should be good just have to take it out to get to it. I would do the whole clutch while your there.
 

Muadeeb

Nissan al Gaib
Admin
Location
Dallas
No, the throw out bearing is actually outside the lubrication area of the tranny, and has clutch (brake) fluid operating it

Sent via wild ferrets on crack
 

southernXterra

Bought an X
Location
Georgia
Darn.....well any idea on how long I have until this just completely goes out? This just started a few days ago. I don't intend on towing anything for awhile and I don't have to push it very hard. Mainly will be long drives on the highway. Any risks with that?



No, the throw out bearing is actually outside the lubrication area of the tranny, and has clutch (brake) fluid operating it

Sent via wild ferrets on crack
 

04silverX

Bought an X
Location
Fort Mill SC
depends man. No set rule sometimes they go immediatly or i have driven on them for months bad.Really the only bad thing that can happen is that it will lock up and then you will be out of a clutch. And if your away from home you will have to be good at no clutch shifting, and unfortunatly yes highway miles will probably be easier on it this is what actually engages and disengages your clutch disk when you press the pedal. So every time you depress the pedal, the bearing will be used.
 

NismoFire

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
Location
Smyrna, TN
I had a throwout bearing go bad on my 4wd Hardbody..it was going bad when I bought it, and it lasted 6 months..long enough for me to save up for the mechanic and the new clutch.
 

Silver dude

Sliders
Founding Member
Yeah throw out bearing. As others have recommended when you do fix it. Toss a new clutch and main seal at it. You're at the mileage for clutch replacment any how.
 

southernXterra

Bought an X
Location
Georgia
Well I am mechanically inclined and have worked on cars such as belts, valve seals, spark plugs, etc etc. However, I have never replaced a clutch and honestly don't feel confident in dropping my transmission at least not without a more experienced person. Any know of some members who might could help me replace it? I'm in North Ga Cartersville to be exact. If I can find someone to help me that would be awesome. If not shops are looking at around $800- $1300 to replace it since I have the 4x4 which is additional labor.
 

southernXterra

Bought an X
Location
Georgia
Wow that is a great write up! Thank you! I have no idea if I can do this myself. Part of it being time involved because this is my only form of transportation. The guy in the write up said 13 hours and this is his third time doing it so I can only imagine how long it would take me. I'm going to call some more shops tomorrow and see what they say. If it is a crazy amount for someone to do it I will have to take on the task myself.
 

southernXterra

Bought an X
Location
Georgia
Well I am a member over at club xterra and all those guys seem to recommend the oem one. Seeing that I am almost certain this is the oem clutch (I am the second owner) and being that it has 154k miles on the clock I think the oem one might not be so bad. However, if any of you who offroad, daily, and or tow with your xterra. Let me know if y'all have better options.
 

04silverX

Bought an X
Location
Fort Mill SC
Yeah OEM is fine, just giving you a heads up that the OEM clutch may be made by Exedy and that you could get the same clutch as the OEM but cheaper. Goodluck with the job. Clutches aren't hard in themselves, but its all the labor to get to them. Easier if you have a lift but if not just a few strong hands from buddies and a lot of extensions. Also get a pilot bearing puller rented before you start the job.
 

Silver dude

Sliders
Founding Member
OEM is best. As you stated you know it lasts. Performance clutches wear faster and grip faster which isn't what you need when your trying to slip the clutch over a difficult line offroad.

Nissan sells a clutch kit, comes with the pressure plate, pilot bushing, clutch disk, throw out bearing. I believe I paid close to $250 which came out to just a few bucks more then the cheap stuff at the autoparts store.
 

02Xterra

Wheeling
Location
Central VA
Dangit. I replaced my clutch, pilot bushing, throwout bearing, main seal, etc. in June of 2012.. and mine just started making the same noise. I think I've put maybe 15k miles on it..
 

southernXterra

Bought an X
Location
Georgia
Since the clutch for sure needs to be replaced would it be wise to replace the rear main seal? The seal isn't leaking but I figure with 154k miles it is bound to go at anytime. So would it make since to replace it while the clutch is out? If so how much extra would a shop charge to do that? It shouldn't be any additional labor.
OEM is best. As you stated you know it lasts. Performance clutches wear faster and grip faster which isn't what you need when your trying to slip the clutch over a difficult line offroad.

Nissan sells a clutch kit, comes with the pressure plate, pilot bushing, clutch disk, throw out bearing. I believe I paid close to $250 which came out to just a few bucks more then the cheap stuff at the autoparts store.
 

southernXterra

Bought an X
Location
Georgia
That is another reason why I think having a shop replace mine would be a better choice because most reputable shops will honor their work. So, if it were to go out with a short amount of miles I could take it back to the shop that replaced it and they would fix it.
Dangit. I replaced my clutch, pilot bushing, throwout bearing, main seal, etc. in June of 2012.. and mine just started making the same noise. I think I've put maybe 15k miles on it..
 

Silver dude

Sliders
Founding Member
I've done my clutch twice on my garage floor once do to mileage and once because I overspeeded it and it exploded. It is a ton of work. It wouldn't be half as bad if you didn't have to remove the torsion bars. Most difficult part is always getting the splines to line up and the engine transmission to remate. I would do the rear main seal. You have to remove the flywheel to be resurfaced or exchanged. So its in the clear might as well its cheap and super easy cause it sure won't be later. I believe the seal and a tube of nissan silicone came with the clutch kit I ordered or maybe I special ordered those items. The whole task isn't so much difficult as it is frustratingly time consuming.
 

southernXterra

Bought an X
Location
Georgia
The transmission shop I contacted told me that he would not replace the rear main seal unless it was leaking or I specifically asked for it. He actually recommend that if it wasn't leaking not to mess with it simply because he has had issues where he replaces them and they begin to slightly leak. He said they usually outlast the motor if the engine is properly maintained. Is this true or is it just a random occurrence when they go out?

I've done my clutch twice on my garage floor once do to mileage and once because I overspeeded it and it exploded. It is a ton of work. It wouldn't be half as bad if you didn't have to remove the torsion bars. Most difficult part is always getting the splines to line up and the engine transmission to remate. I would do the rear main seal. You have to remove the flywheel to be resurfaced or exchanged. So its in the clear might as well its cheap and super easy cause it sure won't be later. I believe the seal and a tube of nissan silicone came with the clutch kit I ordered or maybe I special ordered those items. The whole task isn't so much difficult as it is frustratingly time consuming.
 

Silver dude

Sliders
Founding Member
The transmission shop I contacted told me that he would not replace the rear main seal unless it was leaking or I specifically asked for it. He actually recommend that if it wasn't leaking not to mess with it simply because he has had issues where he replaces them and they begin to slightly leak. He said they usually outlast the motor if the engine is properly maintained. Is this true or is it just a random occurrence when they go out?

Yeah its a personal choice. The transmission guy is trying to talk you out of it because he doesn't want to deal with a warranty issue if the seal was improperly installed and begins to leak. It's far easier to say its fine and if it begins to leak the problem is out of his hands. I know the sealing lip on my seal was rather worn down at 100k and I've seen quite a few postings about leaky seals on the forums. Though I can't say a seal leak is something I've experienced. I've done two main seals one on each VG engined vehicle I've owned wasn't a difficult task and didn't leak before or afterward. I didn't do my cam seals when I did my timing belt no leaks there. I guess its just a personal choice because its fine now. Will it be fine after replacement? only way you'll figure that out is with mileage. Because, I personally installed mine and put the silicone to the cover myself and took every precaution I was very sure it wasn't going to leak. Being able to trust someone else? I would of struggled with that as I don't know that they would of went to the depth that I did. I guess that's more so trusting in the quality of your shop to make it right.
 

southernXterra

Bought an X
Location
Georgia
Yea I usually have issues with trusting shops with my vehicles. Over the years with the help of forums and talking to mechanics I have slowly taught myself how to fix many things on a vehicle. For example, my girlfriends toyota solara v6 was leaking oil pretty badly and misfiring. A local shop would want about $800 to trouble shoot, fix the misfire, and change the valve seals. Instead I spent a few hours and $65 bucks and was able to fix everything and got a deal on some Castrol gtx synblend oil. I like knowing the job was done right and if something goes wrong since you had your hands all over the motor you get an idea of what maybe is wrong. However, sadly I go to college about 4 hours away from any garages I can use to work in. Not to mention the larger tools such as hoists are also out of reach due to distance so I am pretty much at the mercy of a shop. Luckily, I don't drive much here so I have been "nursing" the clutch and it's doing ok. Sadly, I am pretty sure 4+ hours on the highway with a chance of traffic.....pretty much a guarantee of traffic It would not make it.
Anyway, that is my rant so what are some things I can do myself to make sure the shop gets the right parts and does a quality job? Anything I can mention to him? Also does the fluids in the transmission, differential, and the transfer case for 4x4 all get changed in the process of doing this?



Yeah its a personal choice. The transmission guy is trying to talk you out of it because he doesn't want to deal with a warranty issue if the seal was improperly installed and begins to leak. It's far easier to say its fine and if it begins to leak the problem is out of his hands. I know the sealing lip on my seal was rather worn down at 100k and I've seen quite a few postings about leaky seals on the forums. Though I can't say a seal leak is something I've experienced. I've done two main seals one on each VG engined vehicle I've owned wasn't a difficult task and didn't leak before or afterward. I didn't do my cam seals when I did my timing belt no leaks there. I guess its just a personal choice because its fine now. Will it be fine after replacement? only way you'll figure that out is with mileage. Because, I personally installed mine and put the silicone to the cover myself and took every precaution I was very sure it wasn't going to leak. Being able to trust someone else? I would of struggled with that as I don't know that they would of went to the depth that I did. I guess that's more so trusting in the quality of your shop to make it right.
 

04silverX

Bought an X
Location
Fort Mill SC
I would google and call around. See if there is a nissan or infiniti specialty shop near you. Then you have the best bet of finding someone who knows what there doing and will treat you right. Not some teenager that works as a lube tech lol.
 

southernXterra

Bought an X
Location
Georgia
The shop that told me about the rear main seal is actually a specialty shop. It's an older guy to. I called the other day to verify about it. He said if I specifically request him to change it he will. However, if it is not leaking and he changes the seal and then it begins to leak he would not warranty it.

I would google and call around. See if there is a nissan or infiniti specialty shop near you. Then you have the best bet of finding someone who knows what there doing and will treat you right. Not some teenager that works as a lube tech lol.
 

southernXterra

Bought an X
Location
Georgia
EDIT! I called a local nissan dealership. They are a bit on the high side in terms of price. However, they did say something that makes me more apt to spend the extra money. Which is they have a warranty for a year parts and labor. This is way better than the local shop that basically seemed like my rig could or could not warranty. Waiting to hear back how much oem parts will be from Nissan but I think they are who I am going to go with.
 

Silver dude

Sliders
Founding Member
Yeah definitely seems the better way to go. That transmission shop seemed shady to me. He'll replace the seal but wouldn't warranty his work. Shows how much trust he puts in his work... Nissan dealer is cool OEM parts are definitely the way to go.
 

southernXterra

Bought an X
Location
Georgia
Yea they guy definitely seemed shady. Thanks for all the advice I am likely going to be needed more advice once work starts to pick up. The mod bug is hitting me pretty good. Looking at lights, rock sliders, and fabricating the tire carrier bumper. Also trying to find some reasonably priced shackles to lift the backend.
 
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