triangles
Test Drive
- Location
- Toledo, Ohio
After having multiple starters die due to the rear of the oil pan leaking on my '04 it was time to drop the oil pan and reseal it before replacing the new starter that the oil leak had killed. This How-To is a work and progress. I will be updating this thread with pictures and eventually this will morph into something useful. I am also taking this opportunity to install a Lokka and replace most of the front suspension/steering components.
Step 1, Remove the front Diff:
There are several youtube videos that touch on this. I may put one or two up here. The readers digest version goes like this:
- A) unbolt the propeller shaft from the front diff.
Tools used: Flare wrench with a cheater bar and MAPP gas torch. A 6 point box end wrench would have been ideal for these but a flare wrench was the best I had.
These come red loctited from the factory so you will have to use a torch to break down the loctite. You have to be careful not to heat it so much that you burn the input seal. My simple propane torch like this one was not big enough to heat the nut quickly enough.
I had to use my larger torch that I got from Hazzard Fraught. I also highly recommend using MAPP gas as it burns hotter.
I found heating one side of the nut for 15 to 20 seconds and then repeating on the other side of the nut is about what it took. I then squirted a bit of PB blaster and used a long extension through the u-joint to keep the shaft from spinning while I wrenched on the nut. Be careful not to use too much leverage and round the nut. Sometimes you have to repeat the heat if the nut doesn't break loose. Worse case you can always cut them off if necessary.
- B) Unbolt the half shafts from the diff.
Tools used: impact wrench with socket and extension, dead blow hammer
These bolts are blue loctited in. I imagine these would be difficult to remove without an impact wrench. I also used a bit of PB blaster. One just pulled apart after removing the bolts. The other side required a few gentile blows from the dead blow hammer to separate from the diff.
- C) Unbolt front cross member mounts.
Tools used: Impact wrench with extensions and wrench. Other sockets/ratchets may be used as well.
I used an extension with the impact wrench and turned the wheels to give me more room. I simply removed the bolt from the drivers side mount. Then there are 2 options with the passenger side mount. The passenger side mount will need to be unbolted from the front cross member in order for the oil pan to come out. You may be able to leave the mount attached to the diff and simply unbolt the mount from the cross member. If not just remove the bolt holding the mount to the diff and you can remove the mount from the cross member later. That is what I did. I also removed the front steering drag link as it was in the way and I was replacing it anyway.
D) Unbolt the rear cross member mounts and remove the differential assembly.
Tools used: Impact wrench with extensions, wrench, pliers.
Be sure to have a transmission jack etc to support the diff before unbolting the rear cross member. Simply remove the two bolts from the mounts securing the rear cross member.
Now the tricky part, removing the differential assembly. DO NOT FORGET TO DISCONNECT THE VENT TUBE!!!! I lowered the rear cross member a few inchens to gain easier access to the vent hose clamp. Simply pinch and wiggle it off with the pliers and pull the hose off the nipple. Next, to clear the oil pan you will need to rotate the back down such that the input is nearly pointed straight down. This gives the front mounts enough room to clear the front cross member and you can completely lower the differential assembly and yank it out from under your Xterra.
If not already done, remove the front cross member, passenger side mount. There are 2 bolts securing this to the cross member. Without doing this there is not enough clearance to remove the oil pan. The only alternative is to remove the 4 bolts and cut the welds as shown in the youtube videos. I am not keen on cutting welds.
Step 2, Remove the Starter:
There are several youtube videos on this and the service manual is pretty self explanatory. It is far easier that the youtube videos show with the diff not in the way. As such I don't think I need to say much here.
Step 3, Remove the motor to transmission brackets:
These are in the way of the oil pan bolts. Details to be added later...
Step 4, Remove the oil pan:
The manual has a diagram of what order to remove the bolts in. They are all 10mm bolts. There are two rubber thingies with metal inserts at either side at the back. I have no idea what purpose they serve and welcome any insights anyone may have as to their function. Note what bolt you got from what hole as these are different lengths than each other and different length from the rest of the pan bolts. I was going to replace them but at over $50 for two small hunks of rubber with some metal imbedded, I will just reuse them. They are Nissan part# 14746-12G10 and 14746-12G11 in case you are curious. The remainder of the pan bolts are all the same length.
Once all the fasteners are removed, simply pull the oil pan side to side and tap with a dead blow hammer until one side breaks loose. Then you can work the pan to get the other side to pop loose. At this point lower the oil pan so the front is sitting on the differential front cross member and lower the back to clear the oil pump pickup. Then you can slide the oil pan down and to the rear (~ 45° angle from horizontal) to remove it from the vehicle.
Step 5, Installation is the opposite of removal:
Just kidding. I haven't gotten to this stage yet. To be continued....
Step 1, Remove the front Diff:
There are several youtube videos that touch on this. I may put one or two up here. The readers digest version goes like this:
- A) unbolt the propeller shaft from the front diff.
Tools used: Flare wrench with a cheater bar and MAPP gas torch. A 6 point box end wrench would have been ideal for these but a flare wrench was the best I had.
These come red loctited from the factory so you will have to use a torch to break down the loctite. You have to be careful not to heat it so much that you burn the input seal. My simple propane torch like this one was not big enough to heat the nut quickly enough.
I had to use my larger torch that I got from Hazzard Fraught. I also highly recommend using MAPP gas as it burns hotter.
I found heating one side of the nut for 15 to 20 seconds and then repeating on the other side of the nut is about what it took. I then squirted a bit of PB blaster and used a long extension through the u-joint to keep the shaft from spinning while I wrenched on the nut. Be careful not to use too much leverage and round the nut. Sometimes you have to repeat the heat if the nut doesn't break loose. Worse case you can always cut them off if necessary.
- B) Unbolt the half shafts from the diff.
Tools used: impact wrench with socket and extension, dead blow hammer
These bolts are blue loctited in. I imagine these would be difficult to remove without an impact wrench. I also used a bit of PB blaster. One just pulled apart after removing the bolts. The other side required a few gentile blows from the dead blow hammer to separate from the diff.
- C) Unbolt front cross member mounts.
Tools used: Impact wrench with extensions and wrench. Other sockets/ratchets may be used as well.
I used an extension with the impact wrench and turned the wheels to give me more room. I simply removed the bolt from the drivers side mount. Then there are 2 options with the passenger side mount. The passenger side mount will need to be unbolted from the front cross member in order for the oil pan to come out. You may be able to leave the mount attached to the diff and simply unbolt the mount from the cross member. If not just remove the bolt holding the mount to the diff and you can remove the mount from the cross member later. That is what I did. I also removed the front steering drag link as it was in the way and I was replacing it anyway.
D) Unbolt the rear cross member mounts and remove the differential assembly.
Tools used: Impact wrench with extensions, wrench, pliers.
Be sure to have a transmission jack etc to support the diff before unbolting the rear cross member. Simply remove the two bolts from the mounts securing the rear cross member.
Now the tricky part, removing the differential assembly. DO NOT FORGET TO DISCONNECT THE VENT TUBE!!!! I lowered the rear cross member a few inchens to gain easier access to the vent hose clamp. Simply pinch and wiggle it off with the pliers and pull the hose off the nipple. Next, to clear the oil pan you will need to rotate the back down such that the input is nearly pointed straight down. This gives the front mounts enough room to clear the front cross member and you can completely lower the differential assembly and yank it out from under your Xterra.
If not already done, remove the front cross member, passenger side mount. There are 2 bolts securing this to the cross member. Without doing this there is not enough clearance to remove the oil pan. The only alternative is to remove the 4 bolts and cut the welds as shown in the youtube videos. I am not keen on cutting welds.
Step 2, Remove the Starter:
There are several youtube videos on this and the service manual is pretty self explanatory. It is far easier that the youtube videos show with the diff not in the way. As such I don't think I need to say much here.
Step 3, Remove the motor to transmission brackets:
These are in the way of the oil pan bolts. Details to be added later...
Step 4, Remove the oil pan:
The manual has a diagram of what order to remove the bolts in. They are all 10mm bolts. There are two rubber thingies with metal inserts at either side at the back. I have no idea what purpose they serve and welcome any insights anyone may have as to their function. Note what bolt you got from what hole as these are different lengths than each other and different length from the rest of the pan bolts. I was going to replace them but at over $50 for two small hunks of rubber with some metal imbedded, I will just reuse them. They are Nissan part# 14746-12G10 and 14746-12G11 in case you are curious. The remainder of the pan bolts are all the same length.
Once all the fasteners are removed, simply pull the oil pan side to side and tap with a dead blow hammer until one side breaks loose. Then you can work the pan to get the other side to pop loose. At this point lower the oil pan so the front is sitting on the differential front cross member and lower the back to clear the oil pump pickup. Then you can slide the oil pan down and to the rear (~ 45° angle from horizontal) to remove it from the vehicle.
Step 5, Installation is the opposite of removal:
Just kidding. I haven't gotten to this stage yet. To be continued....
Last edited:
