gamecock257
Skid Plates
- Location
- Clinton, SC
Changing your engine oil and filter is one of the most important parts of routine maintenance on your Xterra. It is also very easy to do yourself, can save you some money, and help you to get more familiar with your rig.
Before you begin you will need:
5 3/8 quarts of 5w-30
Oil filter
Oil drain pan
10mm and 14mm sockets or wrenches
1. Make sure that the oil is a bit warm so it will drain easier. If you haven't run your engine in a while, start it and let it come up to operating temperature. Then wait a few minutes for all of the oil to drain back into the oil pan.
2. Unscrew the oil filler cap. The filler cap is located on the front right side of the engine
3. Place a drain pan under the oil pan.
4. Using a 14mm socket or wrench remove the drain plug from the oil pan.
5. Allow all of the old oil to drain out of the pan.
6. Remove the old drain plug washer and install a new one.
This is the drain plug washer. You can get them at your dealer or online at:
http://www.courtesyparts.com/11128a...n50-2005-2012-p-9478.html?cPath=533_535_4433&
7. Replace the drain plug and washer. Factory spec is 22-29 ft-lbs
8. If equipped with a factory engine skid plate, remove the two bolts holding the oil filter access cover. Use a 10mm wrench or socket. Place a drain pan under the opening to catch the oil from your filter.
This is a factory Pro-4x skid removed from the vehicle. The little door is what you want to remove so you can get to the oil filter.
9. Remove the oil filter. This can be hard to get to if you have a skid plate. You can try to go through the access door, but its a tight fit. With factory skids I found it easier to come at the filter from above the skid plate on the passenger side. You should be able to unscrew the filter by hand, if not you can use an oil filter wrench.
This is with no skid plate in the way. The idea is for the oil from the old filter to go down the chute looking thing into your drain pan. Some will, but you will still make a mess. If you can get an old plastic bag around the filter before completely removing it, I have found that you can contain most of the mess.
10. Install a new filter. Coat the rubber o-ring with some old oil before installing it. Hand tight is fine. Also be sure that the old o-ring came off with the old filter.
11. Using a funnel, add 5 3/8 quarts of fresh oil into the oil filler opening. This is the same opening that you removed the cap off of in step 1.
12. Replace the filler cap.
13. Start the engine and allow it to run for a bit to circulate the new oil. While the engine is running make sure that no leaks are coming from the drain plug or oil filter.
14. Turn the engine off and allow a few minutes for the oil to settle back into the pan.
15. Remove the oil dipstick. It has a yellow top and is near the oil filler cap.
16. Wipe the dipstick off and replace it.
17. Remove the dipstick again. You should see oil in between the L and H marks. This is normal operating range. If the level is low be sure to add a bit more oil and repeat steps 13-17 until you have the oil at the desired level.
That's it!
The owners manual recommends 5w-30. If you live in extremely hot or cold climates you may need to select a different weight oil. The manual also recommends changing your oil every 3,750 miles. If using conventional oil I change at every 3,000 miles. If using synthetic you can go by what your oil calls for (I use Mobil 1 full synthetic and change every 6,000 miles).
Before you begin you will need:
5 3/8 quarts of 5w-30
Oil filter
Oil drain pan
10mm and 14mm sockets or wrenches
1. Make sure that the oil is a bit warm so it will drain easier. If you haven't run your engine in a while, start it and let it come up to operating temperature. Then wait a few minutes for all of the oil to drain back into the oil pan.
2. Unscrew the oil filler cap. The filler cap is located on the front right side of the engine
3. Place a drain pan under the oil pan.
4. Using a 14mm socket or wrench remove the drain plug from the oil pan.
5. Allow all of the old oil to drain out of the pan.
6. Remove the old drain plug washer and install a new one.
This is the drain plug washer. You can get them at your dealer or online at:
http://www.courtesyparts.com/11128a...n50-2005-2012-p-9478.html?cPath=533_535_4433&
7. Replace the drain plug and washer. Factory spec is 22-29 ft-lbs
8. If equipped with a factory engine skid plate, remove the two bolts holding the oil filter access cover. Use a 10mm wrench or socket. Place a drain pan under the opening to catch the oil from your filter.
This is a factory Pro-4x skid removed from the vehicle. The little door is what you want to remove so you can get to the oil filter.
9. Remove the oil filter. This can be hard to get to if you have a skid plate. You can try to go through the access door, but its a tight fit. With factory skids I found it easier to come at the filter from above the skid plate on the passenger side. You should be able to unscrew the filter by hand, if not you can use an oil filter wrench.
This is with no skid plate in the way. The idea is for the oil from the old filter to go down the chute looking thing into your drain pan. Some will, but you will still make a mess. If you can get an old plastic bag around the filter before completely removing it, I have found that you can contain most of the mess.
10. Install a new filter. Coat the rubber o-ring with some old oil before installing it. Hand tight is fine. Also be sure that the old o-ring came off with the old filter.
11. Using a funnel, add 5 3/8 quarts of fresh oil into the oil filler opening. This is the same opening that you removed the cap off of in step 1.
12. Replace the filler cap.
13. Start the engine and allow it to run for a bit to circulate the new oil. While the engine is running make sure that no leaks are coming from the drain plug or oil filter.
14. Turn the engine off and allow a few minutes for the oil to settle back into the pan.
15. Remove the oil dipstick. It has a yellow top and is near the oil filler cap.
16. Wipe the dipstick off and replace it.
17. Remove the dipstick again. You should see oil in between the L and H marks. This is normal operating range. If the level is low be sure to add a bit more oil and repeat steps 13-17 until you have the oil at the desired level.
That's it!
The owners manual recommends 5w-30. If you live in extremely hot or cold climates you may need to select a different weight oil. The manual also recommends changing your oil every 3,750 miles. If using conventional oil I change at every 3,000 miles. If using synthetic you can go by what your oil calls for (I use Mobil 1 full synthetic and change every 6,000 miles).
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