Gen X's 2001 SE, manual Current Setup: 265/75/16 BFG KO2s MB 352 Wheels Crystal Clear ANZO Headlights PML w/DIY rear shackles Long Tube Headers (eBay specials) Uniden PRO505XL CB Rancho RS5000X Shocks (front only at the moment) AVM Manual Locking Hubs Shrockworks Sliders Custom Rear Storage Deletes: Rear Sway Bar Stock Nerf Bars Mud Flaps Baffles Bank Account Balance DIYs: Tire Deflator Waiting for Install: Heavy Duty Torsion Bars Calmini IAB and rear shackles (ordered, patiently waiting delivery) New Center Link and Idler Arm Rear Rancho Shocks New tires, undecided on size/brand at the moment 3ft Firestik, antenna spring, and Fire-ring antenna cable How it currently sits as of XXX: "coming soon" Here’s my build/rescue thread getting me to this point. Purchased in Feb 2017 for $2300. It came with a PML, 265/75/16 BFGs, MB wheels, and some nice tint on the windows. It had a salvage title and I knew it had been in an accident with front end damage. From what I could see, all had been repaired. It had a pull to the left which I thought would be fixed with an alignment. Brought it to a garage shortly after the purchase to have the oil changed, tires rotated, and the alignment done. It couldn’t be brought into spec. It was just a regular garage and the alignment guy was complaining about the bigger tires, but he did some quick measurements and claimed the driver control arms were welded off by about a half inch. In March I noticed some spots in the driveway. Climbed underneath and saw fluid all around the bell housing and slave cylinder. Went with the easy fix first and replaced the slave cylinder. No luck. Brought it to a garage and found the rear main seal was leaking, and oh yeah, the clutch was bad. Got both replaced plus the oil pan seal…$900. In April we had a warm day and the AC didn’t work. Brought it back to the garage. They found some installation and wiring issues from whatever butcher shop fixed things before, vacuumed the lines and re-charged the AC…$350 During this time, the check engine light came on. Ran the codes and found the front CATS were bad. The shop quoted me in the range of $1500 to replace with OEM. Nope, not spending that. But, my budget was getting blown with other expenses. Had to go with eBay special long tube headers and secondary cats. No money for Thorleys. Replaced both downstream O2 sensors, all studs and nuts, plus had to purchase a few essential tools to get the job done…$600 (minus $110 from scrapping the four CATS) Through all the above repairs, did a few minor things such as baffle, rear sway bar, and nerf bar delete. Added new crystal clear ANZO headlights ($100) and bought various pieces of needed recovery gear and a full-size spare from a junkyard. Now to tackle the front end. Still pulling left plus tire rub issues when turning left and hitting a bump. Not to mention I didn’t have full range of turning radius when going right, and hard right turns made the driver’s tire roll onto the outside sidewall and chirp on the pavement. I went to a collision shop. They took a look and said they needed to pull the frame. Left it with them and they gave it a yank…$800 When I picked it up they said it needed new front shocks and tie rods. The truck drove better, no more tire rub, but it still pulled hard left, couldn’t be aligned to spec, and still had the issues turning right. Got the parts, plus decided to get new pads and rotors while I was at it…$250 Brought it back and they installed everything and tried to get it within spec. No luck. We took a look and could see the cross member was quite bent. Made an appointment to bring it back in a couple weeks so they could put in a new cross member and yank the frame again. I dropped it off Dec 4, 2017. After a couple weeks, the shop called. They pulled with their equipment, they brought it to a couple other shops with bigger gear, no luck. Next option, order a new piece of frame for the front, pull everything to cut out the bad and weld in the new. Sounded expensive, but the shop wanted to do right as I’d already spent a bunch trying to fix it based on what they recommended. They quoted $1400 which included the previous work installing the shocks, brakes, and tie rods, I said go. Here’s the chunk of frame they cut out. I got it back on Jan 5, 2018. The new frame is in, they needed to replace the driver side LCA and motor mount as well (no charge). They said the water pump has a small leak but nothing major at the moment, and ball joints will need to be done soon. Next project. (Did the ball joints myself, had the shop do water pump and timing belt). So about $4200 in repairs, but now I have an X with cold AC, no leaks, smooth shifting, no CELs, and it drives down the road straight…priceless! Now that I’ve got a pretty much mechanically sound truck, sure do wish I had money left over for MODS. Some day. **Edit, Jan 2018** Light mods since we had some warm weather. Small amp installed under the front passenger seat. I won't be winning any bass competitions, but it sounds better than stock. Added some universal fit seat covers, not perfect but not bad for $20. **Edit, May 2018** Tired of my spare tire taking up the cargo space. Decided to build a box for the back. Got the spare tire upright, and built a drawer. I added a lock box and mounted a fire extinguisher to the left of the spare tire. The drawer is plenty big, got a couple folding chairs in there plus recovery gear, scissor jack, jumper cables and a couple other odds and ends. The green bag in the photo is most important, fishing gear. The pole fits nicely by the lock box. Now I have space on top of the box for loading needed gear. **Edit, June 2018** Don't mind the dirt, haven't washed it yet from my last trip. Added a set of AVM manual hubs. Super easy install. I picked them up from eBay with all the hardware included. **Edit, July 2018** ShrockWorks sliders being installed at the campsite July 6 evening, thanks to Brian G. Picked them up on my way to Potomac State Forest near Oakland, MD. Put them on before a trail ride the next day. Used them twice on the trail, a worthwhile investment!