xterraminator
Wheeling
- Location
- Maple Ridge,BC
Where can a person buy drop pitman arms for a 2000 xterra? I have not removed mine and am thinking the splines on them must be different on each make of truck?
Drop pitman arms
- Thread starter xterraminator
- Start date
- Location
- Carlisle, Iowa
What are you trying to do? I am not Aware of any aftermarket pitman arms
xterraminator
Wheeling
- Location
- Maple Ridge,BC
When doing a lift where my truck will be going 12" higher than stock i have no choice but to use drop arms. The angle of the steering drag link would be too steep.
xterraminator
Wheeling
- Location
- Maple Ridge,BC
The point at which the drag link attaches to gets dropped by a couple of inches, decreasing the angle when doing large lifts.
- Location
- Morrison, CO
If you're doing a radius arm setup, then you can do crossover steering, using a flat pitman arm with an angled taper hole, with a Chevy hi-steer arm on the passenger's side with a stock tie rod bar connecting both sides. Then you don't don't have to run a dropped track bar mount either, keeping less of the suspension from hanging below the frame.
If you're running leaf springs, then you can still run the crossover, and will need to run it that way, in order to keep the axle from stuffing too far into the steering box.
Otherwise, Trail Gear has drop pitman arms for the 'Yotas, just have to dremel out the large keys to make them fit the Nissan box.
If you're running leaf springs, then you can still run the crossover, and will need to run it that way, in order to keep the axle from stuffing too far into the steering box.
Otherwise, Trail Gear has drop pitman arms for the 'Yotas, just have to dremel out the large keys to make them fit the Nissan box.
xterraminator
Wheeling
- Location
- Maple Ridge,BC
crossover steering will not work because my knuckles have only one ball joint connection. I was going to do of a "Y" setup for the drag link and tie-rod, that is why I want to bring the drive side of the drag link down.
- Location
- Morrison, CO
My rig with leaf springs, crossover steering.
But with your D30, even with chromo axles, running 35's is teetering on the edge. Chromo's aren't bullet proof and if you break a u-joint, they'll still tear the ears off the shaft. BTDT.
D44 at the minimum with that size tires.
On the right...
Flexing out 14" travel shocks, with 35" tires, and parked on a 37" tire.
But with your D30, even with chromo axles, running 35's is teetering on the edge. Chromo's aren't bullet proof and if you break a u-joint, they'll still tear the ears off the shaft. BTDT.
D44 at the minimum with that size tires.
On the right...
Flexing out 14" travel shocks, with 35" tires, and parked on a 37" tire.
That is pure pronOn the right...
Flexing out 14" travel shocks, with 35" tires, and parked on a 37" tire.
- Location
- Probably in class..
xterraminator
Wheeling
- Location
- Maple Ridge,BC
Casper, When you say "Kevin's Rig, 36's, HPD44, "Y" style steering and stock pitman arm." He actually has an inverted "T". The "Y" is not what you want. Ideal to have it where the tie rod is one solid piece, the Y setup is where tie rod attached near the bottom end of the drag link. "Y" link have problems because as you lift up on the draglink each point on the knuckle arms get pulled to the center making the wheels "toe in". When using a T setup it prevents that.
Cyclemut I would have to disagree with you. We have a local shop here that builds custom rock crawlers ($80K plus) and according to them Dana 30's can easily handle 35's. They have seen 35", 12.5 wide, mudd swampers tires on a D30, stock shafts , no problem. They have seen D44 and D60 get snapped, its all how you drive them. D30's have gotten a bad rap because everyone assumes their crap when in fact they are actually not. I think in 1985 the D30 and D44 had the same size of ujoint.
Cyclemut I would have to disagree with you. We have a local shop here that builds custom rock crawlers ($80K plus) and according to them Dana 30's can easily handle 35's. They have seen 35", 12.5 wide, mudd swampers tires on a D30, stock shafts , no problem. They have seen D44 and D60 get snapped, its all how you drive them. D30's have gotten a bad rap because everyone assumes their crap when in fact they are actually not. I think in 1985 the D30 and D44 had the same size of ujoint.
xterraminator
Wheeling
- Location
- Maple Ridge,BC
I will be using 1 ton "T" setup and in the end drag link and track bar all set up on the same plane. I am actually going to stay with the stock pitman arm, going to install a raised mount for the lower part of the track bar. a lot easier and cheaper. Keeps the track bar straight.
xterraminator
Wheeling
- Location
- Maple Ridge,BC
This is a "Y" link. http://www.google.ca/imgres?sa=X&bi...cMCc&iact=rc&dur=3206&page=2&start=25&ndsp=31 see how it is very different than the pictures on this post.
xterraminator
Wheeling
- Location
- Maple Ridge,BC
Oops. Sometimes companies refer it to a y and others a t. Anyway what you have is the best setup.
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- Location
- Probably in class..
Xterraminator, I'd be careful stepping on toes.. Calling Casper, Kevin and Gramps out might not be the wisest thing to do. (They do already have tested and proven rigs..)
Sent from space and stuff
Sent from space and stuff
xterraminator
Wheeling
- Location
- Maple Ridge,BC
Was not in any way questioning their setup. The discussion was more on the different types of steering suspension and what to be careful. I even said that what they had was good. Not sure what the issue is here.
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- Location
- Probably in class..
Might have read it wrong, just making sure we are still friends here. (that's our job)
Sent from space and stuff
xterraminator
Wheeling
- Location
- Maple Ridge,BC
Always friends 
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- Location
- Morrison, CO
I'm sure that an $80k rig doesn't have a D30 in the front. Unless you've got a picture of that rig, I'm going to have to call BS. No frickin' way, no how, nah-gonna-happen. If you have a pic of it, I'll retract my statement, and if that's what some floor sweeping red rag at some shop told you, don't go back there.
Ring gears are smaller on the D30, the D44 ring gear is way bigger (1.25") and the u-joints are considerably bigger on a 44 (not counting the tj dana 30s which have the larger u-joint). The inners on a 30 should be 1 5/32" by 27 spline, while the inners of a 44 should be 1 5/16" (5/16" larger which is quite substantial) by 30 spline. The outers on a 30 should be 1 5/32" by 27 spline with the 44 being 1 1/4" by 19 spline outer (again, the 44 is 3/32" bigger). Stock shafts have the neck-down previous to the splined area too, so breakage, if not at the ears, will occur there on a stock shaft. I've dug plenty of broken spline ends out of carriers with my super-magent on a stick (if I was lucky enough to get it out without tearing the carrier out), and those were D44's running 35's.
Not to mention that you can't run selectable hubs with a stock D30, unlike the D44. And the D44 knuckles can be swapped (Chevy-> Ford, Ford-> Jeep, Ford -> Chevy, etc.) to get the steering setup that is best for what you're doing.
But in no way is a stock D30 going to put up with what a D44 would put up with, on 35's.
Sorry, but experience trounces shop stories. Especially a shop putting D30's in $80k rigs.
D30 R&P running 35" Creepy Crawlers, trussed, alloy shafts, ARB and Jantz Joints. Not mine, but a buddy pointed me to this when I was discussing this thread with him.
Shaft differences.
Ring gears are smaller on the D30, the D44 ring gear is way bigger (1.25") and the u-joints are considerably bigger on a 44 (not counting the tj dana 30s which have the larger u-joint). The inners on a 30 should be 1 5/32" by 27 spline, while the inners of a 44 should be 1 5/16" (5/16" larger which is quite substantial) by 30 spline. The outers on a 30 should be 1 5/32" by 27 spline with the 44 being 1 1/4" by 19 spline outer (again, the 44 is 3/32" bigger). Stock shafts have the neck-down previous to the splined area too, so breakage, if not at the ears, will occur there on a stock shaft. I've dug plenty of broken spline ends out of carriers with my super-magent on a stick (if I was lucky enough to get it out without tearing the carrier out), and those were D44's running 35's.
Not to mention that you can't run selectable hubs with a stock D30, unlike the D44. And the D44 knuckles can be swapped (Chevy-> Ford, Ford-> Jeep, Ford -> Chevy, etc.) to get the steering setup that is best for what you're doing.
But in no way is a stock D30 going to put up with what a D44 would put up with, on 35's.
Sorry, but experience trounces shop stories. Especially a shop putting D30's in $80k rigs.
D30 R&P running 35" Creepy Crawlers, trussed, alloy shafts, ARB and Jantz Joints. Not mine, but a buddy pointed me to this when I was discussing this thread with him.
Shaft differences.
Last edited:
xterraminator
Wheeling
- Location
- Maple Ridge,BC
The owner had a d30 in his cherokee. Sorry to confuse you the $80k rig did not have a d30. When I told him what I was running he was OK with it. I do agree not as many options like a d44.
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