Auto Tranny Service

Muadeeb

Nissan al Gaib
Admin
Location
Dallas
<set me.mentality = "Adult" >
I'm in the middle of servicing my tranny, 4 drains in actually, and the fluid is still not coming out as clean as I would like. I need to drop the pan and clean the magnet, but I would like some guidance from the 'elders'. The FSM states that the bolts are self sealing, and need to be replaced after they are removed. Does anyone actually do this? What is the part number for the bolts, or do I just walk into the dealership and ask for a set of tranny bolts. If you do reuse them, do you apply any new sealant?

Thanks for any input.

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Jmac289gt

Sliders
Founding Member
Location
Dickinson, TX
If you take it to a "stealership" and ask for a drain and refill or a flush they never open the transmission, and a drain is only going to get about half of the old stuff out but it is better than doing nothing at all.

If you take the pan down you should not need new bolts cause our techs never really ask for any when replacing a valve body.
 

Muadeeb

Nissan al Gaib
Admin
Location
Dallas
If you take it to a "stealership" and ask for a drain and refill or a flush they never open the transmission, and a drain is only going to get about half of the old stuff out but it is better than doing nothing at all.

If you take the pan down you should not need new bolts cause our techs never really ask for any when replacing a valve body.

I'm doing the work myself, and I've already done 4 drains. Your 2nd statement is what I was looking for. I'll order a gasket and maybe a 'filter' for the next drain and not worry about the bolts.

Just take it in and have it flushed, When it is done they do not drop the pan, but it will give you a good chance to install an in-line filter. http://magnefinefilters.com
I'm wary of a flush as it has nearly 200K and was never serviced until recently. 2x on where would you put the filter; with it's age, it may appreciate the external filter.
 

Jmac289gt

Sliders
Founding Member
Location
Dickinson, TX
We also never replace the filter on a Nissan transmission, it is a wire mesh screen type filter that will last the life time of the vehicle as long as it is service like it should be. Even the ones that don't get service regularly will probably still be good.

If it was mine I would not change it, but it is not and so you need to do what makes you feel more comfortable about your vehicle.
 
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granitex

Skid Plates
Founding Member
Location
Columbus OH
there are two lines that go from the tranny to the back of the radiator. The lines are flexable so putting the filter where you want it is not a problem.

You can put it on the output, or the return line that part does not matter. All it really has for the connection is a hose barb on each end that goes into the supply line. mine is strapped to the frame with a couple of nice thick zip ties.
 
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Kris&HerX

Bumpers Installed
Founding Member
Location
Boise, ID
Need some help:

My truck is currently sitting at 129k on the odometer and is in desperate need of a transmission fluid flush. So I've called 3 places so far... but got some rather disheartened news from the "stealership" - the guy on the phone stated that a truck with this many miles would not benefit from a flush due to the old fluid that has built up on the inner walls of the tranny becoming a paste like substance and that the new trans oil would essentually clean all that out and put it right back into the system. So what I want to know is is this true ... or was the guy really pulling my chain?

The dealership's prices are in the middle compared to the other two places I called. I know I can do the service at home, but considering I am getting ready to leave and drip 1500+ miles to Colorado in a little over a week, I want it done as professionally as possible.
 

Muadeeb

Nissan al Gaib
Admin
Location
Dallas
Go ahead and do the drain and fills, about 50-100 miles apart (get some circulation) and repeat for 3 drains. This'll net you ~90% new fluid and is much gentler than a flush at this age. Since you have a 4x4, be prepared with 7 qts of fluid, but only expect 4-5 to come out.

If you need to do it quicker, you can do a 'poor (wo)mans flush' by removing one of the lines from the cooler, and run the engine while it drains into a container. Do this for 1 minute OR until it stops, whichever is first. Then drain the pan, and refill with new fluid. Run the engine again, then refill and you should have 100% new fluid at this point.

Note: this procedure is NOT in the Xterra FSM, but is for other vehicles. You'll need somewhere around 15 qts if you do it this way.
 

Cyclemut

Wheeling
Founding Member
Location
Morrison, CO
Wrong on a couple of accounts for several of the stuff noted here.

1. Draining and refilling get's about a third of the fluid in the system, nowhere near half. The majority of the fluid is in the torque converter.

2. Although you don't need any bolts to change the filter, you better have the correct torque on the filter bolts as they do go through the valve body. With an over tightened valve body, you will run a very high chance of ovaling out the shuttle valleys and eventually lose the shifting that the valve body controls. It takes a bit, but it can let the clutches start slipping and eventually take the trans out with it. All due to a service 10k ago. I use an inch pound torque wrench and put them back to 61 inch pounds (used bolts, if I use new bolts, 78 inch pounds), that's only about 5 foot pounds. If they're using a 3/8" ratchet and a 10mm socket, it's extremely easy to overtorque these things, and they only go into aluminum.

3. Running the trans pump dry can heat it up very quickly and damage it. It uses the fluid to cool itself too, so running it dry is bad, so you'd better be quick in shutting it off or you can get shavings in your pump. Since the pump is after the filter, that means getting the potential shavings into your torque converter. No bueno.

4. "Stealerships" (gawd I hate that ****ing term) use a positive displacement fluid transfer device. The old fluid goes into an empty bag, which is next to a full bag of fresh fluid that contains more fluid than what your truck needs. They also, typically, put in a trans conditioner (I like BG products, but dealerships vary by area) that's mixed with the new fluid. These two bags are in a confined space. As the old fluid is pushed in, it pushes the new fluid back into the transmission. Before any of this happens, they'll put in a trans clean/flush product that will break loose the sludge and materials that have settled in various places around the transmission and drive the truck through all of the gears, over a certain period of time (different products have different times they want to have the product in there) and then do the flush.

I've done hundreds of the flushes personally. I like BG products, personally. I won't do a drain and refill, even several over a period of time, because the fluids just mingle too much and it does nothing for the materials that have built up inside the trans. It would be like running a carb that needs rebuilt do to sludge and contamination by just running new fuel through it, without a cleaner. If you flush a carb, with a good cleaner, then run fresh fuel through it, it does a ton better (bad comparison because you can simply rebuild a carb, not so easy for an automatic transmission, but you get the gist.

Kris, get a flush, with a cleaner and conditioner and don't look back. There are several folks that have decent luck with the drain and fills or the po'boy flushes. But really, I wouldn't waste the time on it and your truck is worth a lot of money to be rolling the dice with.

Stealerships. Really guys?
 
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