Alternator

[Muadeeb]

I think it was already said here, but its not the water, its the crap in the water. I'm not sure an alternator can be made completely waterproof on a vehicle. As well as generating electricity, it will generate heat and that heat will need a place to go.

If it were completely boxed in, that heat will lead to earlier failure of the components. My factory alt made it over 12 years (granted: don't wheel much) and I'm thinking it may have still been good when I replaced it. The other extreme is to run a liquid cooling system around it. This still requires a shield around the alt to protect it from the coolant, as well as either a self contained cooling system, or tapping into the main coolant lines.

The 3rd option (one I haven't seen discussed) is to relocate the alt higher in the engine bay.

The best thing you can do for now? Carry a trail spare, spray silicon on every surface you can get to, and clean the alt at the end of the day.

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[TJTJ]

They make sealed water cooled alternators...but, its $ and fab work to use one.

I find a skid plate that blocks the splash at the alt does wonders for longevity, as does NOT making dramatic "Photo Op" runs through the water to generate large dramatic rooster tails, etc.

As mentioned, the water itself is not the real issue as much as the sand and silt and crud the water deposits on its way back out of the alternator.


As far as I know, a Mean Green just makes more amps, just like the Quest, only even more so...neither is proven to be more resistant to damage....although proportionally, I do have the IMPRESSION that the Greens' MIGHT be more resistant.

I say it like that because I simply don't know enough people who HAVE the Greens to be sure if its a real pattern, or just a few data points that appear to be a pattern, but are not.

So many MORE people have the OEM X or Quest alts...so there's more opportunity for them to fail, whereas the few Greens I know of in action have not failed yet...but we are talking about a small sample size.

Given that you can buy ~ 2-3 Quest 125 amp for ~ the cost of one 180 amp Green, unless you really need the other extra amps, its hard to justify the cost.

 

[Eric P]

I got my Mean Green for basically free. Nissan replaced the original under warranty. That died on the trail two weeks later. I bought a Bosch one from Pep Boys and Nissan reimbursed me for it. Then three Bosch alternators in a matter of 2 months died, all replaced for free by Pep Boys under warranty, the last one I said I wanted a refund since I purchased the Mean Green. So I got the original cost refunded by Nissan, then Pep Boys refunded me the same cost plus a refund on the core charge. After both refunds, I made ~$25. Other than breaking bolts, its worked flawlessly and has been through more muck than the originals. There is no skid plate protecting it from splash and is fully exposed in the wheel well since I have a body lift.

 

[southernXterra]

Yea I'm aware that water isn't the "enemy" in this. Also TJTJ do you have a photo of the skid plate you are talking about? I think that is the best option honestly because my xterra seems to love to get mud all over the engine bay (which I want to prevent as much as possible). Two reasons for this are mud holes are almost impossible to avoid in places I go to wheel/ hunt. Second, it gets tiring cleaning the engine bay (I like to keep it clean to check for leaks etc) seeing that it's my daily I have to keep it running at it's best. So, after seeing all the advice I'm guessing oem alternator, silicone, and a decent skid plate is the way to go. Also, back to the engine bay how do most of y'all clean your engine bays? Like what is a quick but safe way to remove all the mud.

 

[TJTJ]

Yea I'm aware that water isn't the "enemy" in this. Also TJTJ do you have a photo of the skid plate you are talking about?

I think that is the best option honestly because my xterra seems to love to get mud all over the engine bay (which I want to prevent as much as possible). Two reasons for this are mud holes are almost impossible to avoid in places I go to wheel/ hunt. Second, it gets tiring cleaning the engine bay (I like to keep it clean to check for leaks etc) seeing that it's my daily I have to keep it running at it's best. So, after seeing all the advice I'm guessing oem alternator, silicone, and a decent skid plate is the way to go. Also, back to the engine bay how do most of y'all clean your engine bays? Like what is a quick but safe way to remove all the mud.

Its the one right in front of the Alternator, which blocks the direct shot at the alt.

 

[drbandkgb]

I try to spay with silicone every trip..
Seems to help since I'm only on #2

 

[NismoFire]

My #3 made it through nXm's monsoon, creek crossings and all, without silicone or a skid plate. I just took it easy through the puddles and whatnot.

 

[southernXterra]

Hmmm funny thing is the oem skid plate is only held in with two bolts. I'm guessing the previous owner (who had it dealer serviced) one of the technicians over the years stripped out the threads for the regular bolts. I may fabricate up a skid plate like that TJTJ thanks! As for the silicone you guys have convinced me to get some just to keep in the back with me as a precaution. For something really cheap I might as well give it a shot it can't hurt. Thanks for all the advice guys! Also I just made a build thread so check it out trying to figure out how to add more photos but it is being a pain.

 

[NismoFire]

I don't even have factory skids. She's completely nekkid under there. I just avoid big puddles or standing water on the road if at all possible. I'm paranoid and I don't feel like doing this again, cause it sucked the first 2 times. Haha.

 

[southernXterra]

Haha sounds like you've had some bad experiences. I thought that the xterra coming with skid plates from factory just added to it's awesomeness. It basically says here take this thing offroading lol. I've thought about removing them but then I think of all the protection it adds. I'm trying to find a way to fabricate a way to make it stronger and have more mounting points since all but two bolts are stripped. Since it has to be removable to change the oil I'm thinking of a hinge system.

I don't even have factory skids. She's completely nekkid under there. I just avoid big puddles or standing water on the road if at all possible. I'm paranoid and I don't feel like doing this again, cause it sucked the first 2 times. Haha.

 

[NismoFire]

They all come factory with a crappy aluminum engine skid- mine just wasn't there when I bought my truck. I have DRB's factory skid sitting in the shed, but all the OEM hardware is still in the frame. I tried drilling/tapping them out but broke the tap.

My OEM alternator made it ~165k before it went kaput, and I think my first trip to Prentice Cooper didn't help. It was a slow death. So I bought a NEW TYC Quest alternator from RockAuto...that one went bad (or was never good to begin with). Sent it back, got #3 installed, and I've had it on for at least 5k now with no hiccups.

Oh, and something to consider- most of the guys that have done this were body lifted, which makes it easier to get around the oil filter. My truck is not BL'd yet (I've had the lift for 2 years, just haven't done it), so it was a bigger pain for me than them. Plus is was pouring down rain and I was running thin on patience.

 

[mudchet]

Yea I'm aware that water isn't the "enemy" in this. Also TJTJ do you have a photo of the skid plate you are talking about? I think that is the best option honestly because my xterra seems to love to get mud all over the engine bay (which I want to prevent as much as possible). Two reasons for this are mud holes are almost impossible to avoid in places I go to wheel/ hunt. Second, it gets tiring cleaning the engine bay (I like to keep it clean to check for leaks etc) seeing that it's my daily I have to keep it running at it's best. So, after seeing all the advice I'm guessing oem alternator, silicone, and a decent skid plate is the way to go. Also, back to the engine bay how do most of y'all clean your engine bays? Like what is a quick but safe way to remove all the mud.

Anybody have a good technique for cleaning the engine compartment?

 

[Big_THanks]

Anybody have a good technique for cleaning the engine compartment?

Cover the distributor, alt, and battery with grocery bags and then spray degreaser on the engine and then just hose it off trying not to directly soak electrical components. Then just start the engine and let her dry.

Sent from my Note 2 using Tapatalk HD

 

[southernXterra]

How is prentice cooper? I live in north ga and have been wanting to go try out their trails.

They all come factory with a crappy aluminum engine skid- mine just wasn't there when I bought my truck. I have DRB's factory skid sitting in the shed, but all the OEM hardware is still in the frame. I tried drilling/tapping them out but broke the tap.

My OEM alternator made it ~165k before it went kaput, and I think my first trip to Prentice Cooper didn't help. It was a slow death. So I bought a NEW TYC Quest alternator from RockAuto...that one went bad (or was never good to begin with). Sent it back, got #3 installed, and I've had it on for at least 5k now with no hiccups.

Oh, and something to consider- most of the guys that have done this were body lifted, which makes it easier to get around the oil filter. My truck is not BL'd yet (I've had the lift for 2 years, just haven't done it), so it was a bigger pain for me than them. Plus is was pouring down rain and I was running thin on patience.

 

[southernXterra]

So the connectors and misc electrical can get wet as long as it isn't crazy? So soaking the engine bay with my garden hose and covering battery, distributor, and fuse box should be good? I thought you should run the engine while you spray it?

Cover the distributor, alt, and battery with grocery bags and then spray degreaser on the engine and then just hose it off trying not to directly soak electrical components. Then just start the engine and let her dry.

Sent from my Note 2 using Tapatalk HD

 

[Muadeeb]

So the connectors and misc electrical can get wet as long as it isn't crazy? So soaking the engine bay with my garden hose and covering battery, distributor, and fuse box should be good? I thought you should run the engine while you spray it?

The back end of the sensors are sealed well enough. The connectors (most of them) have a rubber piece inside them that helps prevent water ingress.

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[Big_THanks]

So the connectors and misc electrical can get wet as long as it isn't crazy? So soaking the engine bay with my garden hose and covering battery, distributor, and fuse box should be good? I thought you should run the engine while you spray it?

Right. I mean unless you are just power blasting directly into the connectors you'll be fine.

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[southernXterra]

Well what degreasers seem to work the best? Preferably something not so harsh on the brittle plastics and the rubber hoses/belts

 

[Big_THanks]

Well what degreasers seem to work the best? Preferably something not so harsh on the brittle plastics and the rubber hoses/belts

Simple green works well. I've also went back and uses Armor all on the hoses and plastic parts afterwards

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[southernXterra]

Thanks! I'm gonna give that a shot this weekend before it gets too cold to want to mess with the water hose lol.

Simple green works well. I've also went back and uses Armor all on the hoses and plastic parts afterwards

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[KBC]

I'm thinking of picking up an aftermarket Quest alternator off ebay that claims 220 amps. Since a few of you guys run the mean green ones at 180 I think the answer to my upcoming question will be no but here it is;
Any problems with the fusible link? Will I need to upgrade it?
I don't think it should be a problem since everything will continue to draw the same amperage. My main reason to upgrade is to make sure the winch I'm about to mount has more than enough power and will be wired direct to battery/alternator.