HK..
Bought an X
- Location
- Cincinnati ohio
Any one replace there ac compressor, dryer and expansion valve. I need to do this and was wondering if there is any info on it here. Thanks.
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AC compressor
- Thread starter HK..
- Start date
Why yes, yes I have. Let me get to a real keyboard and type something up. Bottom line: expensive but not too hard to do
Sent via wild ferrets on crack
Assuming you've determined that you _actually_ need to replace the compressor, here's what you do:
Need:
3 12oz cans of R-134a. If you can get it without the sealers and oil, do so.
a quantity of PAG-46 oil. I had to buy 8 oz and it has the fluorescent dye in it.
UV Light. Black light will work, but has very limited 'sight' distance
latex gloves. You will be handling the oil to lube up O-rings, so glove it.
Manifold Gauge (rent)
Vacuum pump (rent)
Compressor
Dryer
Expansion Valve
Tools:
10mm socket
12mm socket (don't remember but you probably have it any way)
14mm socket
17mm wrench --
19mm wrench > You will be using multiple wrenches at the same time, so make certain you have all 4, not a combo of 17/19 or somesuch.
24mm wrench |
27mm wrench --
8 mm wrench
12mm wrench
May need 6mm hex depending on the compressor ordered.
3/8 Torque wrench
1/4 Torque wrench (in/lbs) optional
Flat blade screwdriver to remove the grill
Removal:
Have the system drained of refrigerant. A shop near me did it for $40.
Remove the grill to get to the dryer; I removed the entire bumper for a little easier access. Be a little careful when you crack the first connection, as the system will be under vacuum at this point.
Remove the dryer (2 10mm bolts and a sensor). I want to say the sensor is a 19mm, but I don't remember exactly.
Remove the two connections at the compressor -- 4 bolts, either 12 or 14mm. Top are easy from above, bottom from below or through the wheel well. There is also a small electrical connector to remove. Drain the oil out of it and MEASURE CAREFULLY. You will need to put that much into the new compressor.
Undo the two connections going to the firewall (17/19 on high side, 24/27 on low).
Remove glove box and remove evap core. Inside the core will be the expansion valve. (and Thermo Amp)
Prepping the Compressor:
It'll ship with plugs over the ports. The one I received had 6mm socket bolts sealing them, and one was really stuck in there. I didn't (couldn't) remove the caps until it was mounted in the truck. I remember a little tetris getting the compressor in, but nothing too bad. You will need to pour in the same amount of new oil as what you drained out of the old compressor -- do not reuse the oil. Add 5ml more to account for a new dryer. Pour this into the Low side port (front of the compressor), and leave pulley down for a couple of minutes to coat the seals. After this, you can permanently install the compressor.
Install all components and do the dryer LAST. The dryer has a small amount of desiccant in it and cannot handle being open to the atmosphere for too long. All o-rings need to be coated (not soaked) in PAG oil prior to installation. For the connections to the evap core, don't worry about crowfoots, just get it snug. Everything else I torqued to spec
dryer input (condensor side): 11 - 18ft/lbs (132 - 216in/lbs)
dryer output (evap/hose side): 87 - 174 in/lbs
compressor mounting: 32 - 43 ft/lbs
high/low hoses: 9 - 12 ft/lbs (108 - 144 in/lbs)
Be very careful on the dryer connections -- I stripped out one because my mount was a little loose.
Turn the compressor clutch (not pulley) by hand 10 full turns to finish priming the compressor and push some of the oil out into the system. Reattach your belt and hook up the manifold set
Refilling the system:
Hook up your gauges (blue to low by the firewall, red to high by the condenser) and attach the yellow middle hose to the vacuum pump. Turn the knobs on the gauges all the way CCW. Plug in the vacuum and open the knobs. You should pull >20in of vacuum for 30 min, then turn off the vacuum, close the valves and leave it alone, hooked up for 1 hour. After that, if you still have the same vacuum then you are set. If not, fire up the truck and put enough refrigerant to turn on the compressor and use a UV light to find the leak. If you do have vacuum, then turn turn on the truck, attach a can to the yellow hose, turn on the AC, open the LOW side valve and let it fill with the can upright. If you open the High, the pressure can cause the can to rupture. The compressor is designed to pump gas, not liquid so if you allow the can to invert, the compressed refrigerant (it's in a liquid state) can flow into the compressor and damage it. The can will get EXTREMELY cold during this process. After a few minutes, the gauges on the manifold will stop rising, and the can will be much lighter. Close the Low side, and change the can. Repeat this process until you get to around 30 psi. This number is not exact, and will depend on ambient temp and humidity. There is a chart in the FSM that shows the relation to temp/humidity/low pressure, HA-57 for the 2001.
You will likely not need the entire 3rd can. This http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lglPJuBXVeE&feature=plcp is a decent video on doing the procedure and is the one I followed (and tried to describe here) when I did mine back in June.
Sent via wild ferrets on crack
Assuming you've determined that you _actually_ need to replace the compressor, here's what you do:
Need:
3 12oz cans of R-134a. If you can get it without the sealers and oil, do so.
a quantity of PAG-46 oil. I had to buy 8 oz and it has the fluorescent dye in it.
UV Light. Black light will work, but has very limited 'sight' distance
latex gloves. You will be handling the oil to lube up O-rings, so glove it.
Manifold Gauge (rent)
Vacuum pump (rent)
Compressor
Dryer
Expansion Valve
Tools:
10mm socket
12mm socket (don't remember but you probably have it any way)
14mm socket
17mm wrench --
19mm wrench > You will be using multiple wrenches at the same time, so make certain you have all 4, not a combo of 17/19 or somesuch.
24mm wrench |
27mm wrench --
8 mm wrench
12mm wrench
May need 6mm hex depending on the compressor ordered.
3/8 Torque wrench
1/4 Torque wrench (in/lbs) optional
Flat blade screwdriver to remove the grill
Removal:
Have the system drained of refrigerant. A shop near me did it for $40.
Remove the grill to get to the dryer; I removed the entire bumper for a little easier access. Be a little careful when you crack the first connection, as the system will be under vacuum at this point.
Remove the dryer (2 10mm bolts and a sensor). I want to say the sensor is a 19mm, but I don't remember exactly.
Remove the two connections at the compressor -- 4 bolts, either 12 or 14mm. Top are easy from above, bottom from below or through the wheel well. There is also a small electrical connector to remove. Drain the oil out of it and MEASURE CAREFULLY. You will need to put that much into the new compressor.
Undo the two connections going to the firewall (17/19 on high side, 24/27 on low).
Remove glove box and remove evap core. Inside the core will be the expansion valve. (and Thermo Amp)
Prepping the Compressor:
It'll ship with plugs over the ports. The one I received had 6mm socket bolts sealing them, and one was really stuck in there. I didn't (couldn't) remove the caps until it was mounted in the truck. I remember a little tetris getting the compressor in, but nothing too bad. You will need to pour in the same amount of new oil as what you drained out of the old compressor -- do not reuse the oil. Add 5ml more to account for a new dryer. Pour this into the Low side port (front of the compressor), and leave pulley down for a couple of minutes to coat the seals. After this, you can permanently install the compressor.
Install all components and do the dryer LAST. The dryer has a small amount of desiccant in it and cannot handle being open to the atmosphere for too long. All o-rings need to be coated (not soaked) in PAG oil prior to installation. For the connections to the evap core, don't worry about crowfoots, just get it snug. Everything else I torqued to spec
dryer input (condensor side): 11 - 18ft/lbs (132 - 216in/lbs)
dryer output (evap/hose side): 87 - 174 in/lbs
compressor mounting: 32 - 43 ft/lbs
high/low hoses: 9 - 12 ft/lbs (108 - 144 in/lbs)
Be very careful on the dryer connections -- I stripped out one because my mount was a little loose.
Turn the compressor clutch (not pulley) by hand 10 full turns to finish priming the compressor and push some of the oil out into the system. Reattach your belt and hook up the manifold set
Refilling the system:
Hook up your gauges (blue to low by the firewall, red to high by the condenser) and attach the yellow middle hose to the vacuum pump. Turn the knobs on the gauges all the way CCW. Plug in the vacuum and open the knobs. You should pull >20in of vacuum for 30 min, then turn off the vacuum, close the valves and leave it alone, hooked up for 1 hour. After that, if you still have the same vacuum then you are set. If not, fire up the truck and put enough refrigerant to turn on the compressor and use a UV light to find the leak. If you do have vacuum, then turn turn on the truck, attach a can to the yellow hose, turn on the AC, open the LOW side valve and let it fill with the can upright. If you open the High, the pressure can cause the can to rupture. The compressor is designed to pump gas, not liquid so if you allow the can to invert, the compressed refrigerant (it's in a liquid state) can flow into the compressor and damage it. The can will get EXTREMELY cold during this process. After a few minutes, the gauges on the manifold will stop rising, and the can will be much lighter. Close the Low side, and change the can. Repeat this process until you get to around 30 psi. This number is not exact, and will depend on ambient temp and humidity. There is a chart in the FSM that shows the relation to temp/humidity/low pressure, HA-57 for the 2001.
You will likely not need the entire 3rd can. This http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lglPJuBXVeE&feature=plcp is a decent video on doing the procedure and is the one I followed (and tried to describe here) when I did mine back in June.
Last edited:
HK..
Bought an X
- Location
- Cincinnati ohio
Awsome write up, thanks a lot. I'm going to work on this on my next six days off and this should help tremendously. Thank you.
iPhone using Tapatalk
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