- Location
- Denver Adjacent
You still need the shim. Ideally shackles shouldn't affect it. But better safe than sorry.
For you guys that have added a lift shackle and already had a 2° (or whatever) shim, did you just leave the shim? Remove it? Change to a different angle?
This.I did kind of the reverse order; I had the lift shackle with no shim, then did the aal and added the shim. My understanding is that if you need it for the spring you need it for the spring, and that the shackle lift alone doesn’t require it since you are changing just one end.
Pull the bottom bolt out of your shocks and then fully extend your suspension. The difference between the bolt hole in the control arm and shock bushing is how much spacer you can run.Is there a thread detailing which shocks are okay to run spacers with? I have Nisstec MKII extended travel and I’m wondering if I can slide a 1/4” spacer on top or if I should just increase preload instead. Obviously I don’t want to bind up my CV and lower ball joints.
Simple enough. I didn’t know if it hit the “too extreme” point before that or not. I’ll check next tire rotation.Pull the bottom bolt out of your shocks and then fully extend your suspension. The difference between the bolt hole in the control arm and shock bushing is how much spacer you can run.
The lower ball joint maxes out first. Then the TREs, then the CVs. You can leave a little extra there for safety but even maxed out, I think the boots will fail on three lower ball joints before the joints themselves.Simple enough. I didn’t know if it hit the “too extreme” point before that or not. I’ll check next tire rotation.
143k and first change?Fluid change question. Time to do transmission fluid. 2010 with 143k. Do I drop the pan and change the screen? I’ve seen many say yes, and many say not necessary.
For the Xterra, what do you all think?
This is correct.Depends. If it's coming out the color of arterial blood, you're fine. If it comes out looking like it ate taco bell, drop it.
But if it's pink like Jim's mom, replace the whole thing
Poor Man's Flush for the win.So drain and check the color? I bought it in 2020 and had the fluid changed at a shop then, but didn’t look at it. They didn’t mention needing a filter change. I’ve put 23k on since buying it. Just trying to figure out if another flush and fill at a shop is good, or if I should do it myself with a little more intervention.
The 2nd Gen transmission doesn't use a filter, just a screen. They're not maintenance items according to the manual and service schedule.So drain and check the color? I bought it in 2020 and had the fluid changed at a shop then, but didn’t look at it. They didn’t mention needing a filter change. I’ve put 23k on since buying it. Just trying to figure out if another flush and fill at a shop is good, or if I should do it myself with a little more intervention.
00 and a 150A or bigger fuse. Give yourself a battery terminal to work with.I would like to run wire from my battery to the rear of my x with Anderson plugs or something similar to plug in an inverter or my tire pump. Would 8 gauage work or do I need 6 or 4 AWG? Was thinking of putting a 50 amp fuse inline on it as well. Thanks for any advice.
Ken
Thanks Prime and Terry00 and a 150A or bigger fuse. Give yourself a battery terminal to work with.
I made a full tray slide that extends fully, and when empty, I can access the cubby hole under the plastic tray. However, I Don't actually use it. I think I have something in there currently, but I'm not sure I can tell you what it is. IMO, that area is too small to be truly useful.I’m thinking of getting a fridge slide. But, once installed it will block my storage tray cover yes?
My thought is get a sheet of plywood and trace the cover, then cut it where needed so I can still access the storage.
Those of you with fridge slides, what did you do?
Sweet, thanks for confirming!The later R50 has a VQ35DE. So similar. Yes.
This depends on how many amps you need to draw, and how much voltage drop you can afford.I would like to run wire from my battery to the rear of my x with Anderson plugs or something similar to plug in an inverter or my tire pump. Would 8 gauage work or do I need 6 or 4 AWG? Was thinking of putting a 50 amp fuse inline on it as well. Thanks for any advice.
Ken
I'll disagree with this. While you absolutely COULD run 00 and put a 150A fuse there, do you really need to? How big is your inverter, and what fuse is in the compressor?00 and a 150A or bigger fuse. Give yourself a battery terminal to work with.
I just like the convenience of having a terminal for the entire battery not under the hood. So as you add more things, you don't have to resize what you did or repeatedly run stuff up front.This depends on how many amps you need to draw, and how much voltage drop you can afford.
I'll disagree with this. While you absolutely COULD run 00 and put a 150A fuse there, do you really need to? How big is your inverter, and what fuse is in the compressor?
The ones I did were the main ground cable. Alternator charging cable. Power cable to the under hood fuse box along with upgrading the fuze for the alternator. Power wire to the starter. I just folled the wires, upped them a guage or 2. And make them longer when ever possible. I also added a night switch in the grill to kill power when I park for long periods.Getting ready to install a 180A alternator in my 03, but I'm not sure exactly what cables to upgrade, and where they need to go....anybody got any tips on this one?
Alternator charges the starter battery, right? I have a house battery in the trailer (charging off a 20A dc-dc charger).Extra alternator isn't going to help with that. You need a house battery and a DC-DC charger setup.
Alternators do not charge batteries. Period. Look on any battery manufacturer's website and they'll tell you that. They maintain a voltage, but to charge you have to exceed the target voltage in order to charge.