Rim hub mount thickness

[yellowx16]

just got back from getting new rotors pass and calipers after the shop I went to forgot to put 4 out of the 6 lug nuts back on my front rim, and f'ed up my rim a bit. anyways, they gave me discounted labor on my brakes that were badly in need of replacement, but they were trying to tell me that where the rims mount up onto the truck that that part of the rim is too thick, and doesn't allow the lug nuts enough stud to grab onto. they said they only thread on about 5-6 threads. anyone else have this same thing on their x? I feel like they might not know completely what they were talking about, and they went on and on about how unsafe it is especially when off road with it, but not sure what to think. any input? they recommended longer studs or just new wheels with thinner mounting surface so their is more stud sticking out.

 

[Prime]

What?! Discount?! That **** had better be free plus pay for the damage or I'd slap a law suit on them so fast they'd forget their own lug nuts. That's a real law suit. You could have been killed or gotten into an accident that killed someone else.

To your question, what wheels do you have? Because the front studs are not very long, but the mounting thickness should be nominal on almost any wheel.

Sounds like BS to me and never ever go back to that shop. Unless it's with a lawyer.

 

[Slasa]

What Prime said. That shop is trying to cover their butts. Something isn't right here.

 

[yellowx16]

yea I really should have handled this myself, my dad went back and forth talking with them, and he's just a genuinely nice guy and kind of forgives people too easily I think. regardless I agree we should have been compensated a lot more than we were, but at this point not much else I can do I suppose. it frustrates me to even think about it now. but to answer your question I have vision wheel warrior 375, 4.5" BS 6 on 5.5 bolt pattern.

 

[yellowx16]

here is a pic of an open lug nut on the stud. it goes on about 8 threads. to me, it looks like these don't thread on far enough onto the stud....let me know what you guys think.

 

[Prime]

That certainly looks less than ideal. But w/ proper torque on all 6 it should be fine.

 

[yellowx16]

yea I agree, I looked online and found that some people use blue 242 threadlocker on the lugs just to be sure, and they can still be taken off without trouble. I'll probably do that and just keep them torqued.

 

[rokdaddy]

The common rule of thumb that mechanical designers use is a thread engagement that is at least 1 X the stud diameter (for steel threads). 1.5 X stud diameter for cast iron and 2X for aluminum.

I wouldn't feel comfortable running those for long periods but my gut tells me that Prime is right though; they are probably just long enough to work.

Wheel studs are cheap... I would change those out soon.


-Rok

 

[yellowx16]

I'll look into that for sure. I also thought about running some wheel spacers that have longer studs. but I've heard bad things about wheel spacers, so that might make my problem even worse.

 

[rokdaddy]

yea I agree, I looked online and found that some people use blue 242 threadlocker on the lugs just to be sure, and they can still be taken off without trouble. I'll probably do that and just keep them torqued.

Thread locking compounds don't work well for torque sensitive fasteners that need to be taken apart and re-assembled regularly. The first problem is that the liquid thread locker lubricates the threads and decreases the amount of torque needed to achieve desired stud tension. This is pretty easy to compensate for but it's worth keeping in mind. The second (and much bigger) problem is that once you apply the thread locker and torque the lugs, it is impossible to check the torque without totally removing the lugs, cleaning the cured locker out of the threads with a wire brush then reassemble before re-torquing.

I like to be able to re-check torque values regularly, using threadlocker would make this a massive pain.


-Rok

 

[yellowx16]

I guess for the spacers to make the issue better, the holes around the stud would have to be beveled enough to allow the lug nut to thread on further than they do over just the rim now. I believe my studs are steel or cast iron, so I still think I will be alright with how much the lug nuts are threading on now as it is. I would definitely feel better with either longer studs or maybe using spacers. to me it seems that if the lug will thread on further over a spacer as opposed to the rim, and then with longer studs coming from the spacer so that the lugs over the rim thread on further, that this would be a better option that what I have now.

 

[yellowx16]

Thread locking compounds don't work well for torque sensitive fasteners that need to be taken apart and re-assembled regularly. The first problem is that the liquid thread locker lubricates the threads and decreases the amount of torque needed to achieve desired stud tension. This is pretty easy to compensate for but it's worth keeping in mind. The second (and much bigger) problem is that once you apply the thread locker and torque the lugs, it is impossible to check the torque without totally removing the lugs and cleaning the cured locker out of the threads wit a wire brush then reassemble before re-torquing. I like to be able to re-check torque values regularly, using threadlocker would make this a massive pain. -Rok

didn't know this thanks for the info

 

[rokdaddy]

No problem. Have a good Thanksgiving!

-Rok

 

[yellowx16]

you too!

 

[Bluedog]

It looks like the rims use lug nuts for aluminum rims that have the shoulder on them. Conical lug nuts won't work and are unsafe. Post up a better picture of the area where the studs come through the rim.

 

[yellowx16]

I'll get a pic up tomorrow, the pic I posted was with a different lug but because the shop stripped one. the lug but pictures is different from all the rest. the others are a similar design just not open like the pictured one is.

 

[Silver dude]

Longer studs are available. Several options on ebay. The truck uses longer studs on one end then the other (front or rear). So if you order measure both the front and the rear of the truck to get the proper studs. Probably the most cost effective and safe option aside from buying new wheels.

 

[yellowx16]

alright looks like I'm just going to replace the studs, I've heard of people pressing them in by just putting some washers and a socket on the threaded end and then tightening up the lug nut which pulls in the stud into place. is this an alright way to do it? I don't have a press, but I do have access to one if absolutely necessary, but I would prefer to just put in the studs myself with the above method.

 

[Prime]

Yeah. That's how I've done them in the past. 3-4 washers and and open ended lug nut. You'll have to use a breaker bar or something of the like to get enough torque to seat the studs all the way. As far as removal of the old ones, mini sledge should be able to pop them out.

 

[yellowx16]

sounds good, that doesn't mess up the knurls at all? I've seen some cases where people have messed them up from this, but it seems this is the most common method. from what I see the front studs will be the harder ones to do, but hopefully it won't be too bad.

 

[Silver dude]

Yeah don't over torque the lugs to get them in there. If they stretch or are torqued beyond their specifications they fatigue and could snap or not hold tension as they should. However, with that said it should be ok as they aren't super hard to seat. 100ftlb is about the limit for stud of that thread. I'd personally use a hammer with a drift to drive them in.

 

[rokdaddy]

I'd personally use a hammer with a drift to drive them in.

That's the way I used to do it before I bought a hydraulic press. Never had to replace all 24 at the same time though.


-Rok

 

[yellowx16]

anyone know where I can get the extended studs? I've looked around and can't seem to find any, checked ebay too. I'm considering just switching to m12-1.5 studs and getting all new lug nuts too if I can't find extended m12-1.25 studs.

 

[Prime]

Yeah. If you can't find the right thread pitch, then just swap everything out to a new one.

Napa and pep boys are my two suggestions for finding something like that.

 

[Silver dude]

Tons on ebay.

 

[yellowx16]

I just cannot seem to find them. I don't know the knurl specifics for the studs either. are all nissan m12-1.25 studs the same? if you could link me to some silverdude I'd really appreciate it.